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<title>Guided Tour – Caribbean, Erie Canal, Great Lakes! The Beneteau Oceanis 45</title>
<link>https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/guided-tour-caribbean-erie-canal-great-lakes-the-beneteau-oceanis-45</link>
<comments>https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/guided-tour-caribbean-erie-canal-great-lakes-the-beneteau-oceanis-45#respond</comments>
<dc:creator><![CDATA[Tim Labute]]></dc:creator>
<pubDate>Mon, 07 Jul 2025 12:00:39 +0000</pubDate>
<category><![CDATA[Video]]></category>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.practical-sailor.com/?p=894929</guid>
<description><![CDATA[<p>This week we get a tour or a Yacht Club in Toronto and have a guided tour of a Beneteau Oceanis 45 that sailed from the Caribbean, up the East Coast, Hudson River, Erie Canal, to the Great Lakes! Now, selling the sailboat on the Great Lakes is difficult so she’ll be sailed back down […]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/guided-tour-caribbean-erie-canal-great-lakes-the-beneteau-oceanis-45">Guided Tour – Caribbean, Erie Canal, Great Lakes! The Beneteau Oceanis 45</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>
]]></description>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This week we get a tour or a Yacht Club in Toronto and have a guided tour of a Beneteau Oceanis 45 that sailed from the Caribbean, up the East Coast, Hudson River, Erie Canal, to the Great Lakes! Now, selling the sailboat on the Great Lakes is difficult so she’ll be sailed back down to Annapolis to sell. This family cruising sailboat boasts a bow thruster, solar panels, and 1300 amp hours of lithium batteries. She’s just about the perfect cruising sailboat to live on in the Caribbean Islands!</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/guided-tour-caribbean-erie-canal-great-lakes-the-beneteau-oceanis-45">Guided Tour – Caribbean, Erie Canal, Great Lakes! The Beneteau Oceanis 45</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>
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<title>Seven Lessons From a Dockside Dismasting</title>
<link>https://www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/standing-rigging/seven-lessons-from-a-dockside-dismasting</link>
<comments>https://www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/standing-rigging/seven-lessons-from-a-dockside-dismasting#comments</comments>
<dc:creator><![CDATA[Alex Jasper]]></dc:creator>
<pubDate>Mon, 07 Jul 2025 08:00:11 +0000</pubDate>
<category><![CDATA[Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Standing Rigging]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Subscriber Only]]></category>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.practical-sailor.com/?p=893885</guid>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Valentine’s Day is not my favorite holiday. Now it will remain the anniversary of my dismasting rather than the day with romance, roses, chocolates and cards. Although, I did end up with roses and chocolates at the end of the day and even a surprise dinner for two, despite starting the day with no real […]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/standing-rigging/seven-lessons-from-a-dockside-dismasting">Seven Lessons From a Dockside Dismasting</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>
]]></description>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Valentine’s Day is not my favorite holiday. Now it will remain the anniversary of my dismasting rather than the day with romance, roses, chocolates and cards. Although, I did end up with roses and chocolates at the end of the day and even a surprise dinner for two, despite starting the day with no real prospect for that.</p><div class="wp-block-group">
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</div><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/standing-rigging/seven-lessons-from-a-dockside-dismasting">Seven Lessons From a Dockside Dismasting</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>
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<title>Sailboat Tech: What’s Worth it and What’s Not</title>
<link>https://www.practical-sailor.com/marine-electronics/sailboat-tech-whats-worth-it-and-whats-not</link>
<comments>https://www.practical-sailor.com/marine-electronics/sailboat-tech-whats-worth-it-and-whats-not#respond</comments>
<dc:creator><![CDATA[Ray Ville]]></dc:creator>
<pubDate>Mon, 07 Jul 2025 08:00:07 +0000</pubDate>
<category><![CDATA[Inside Practical Sailor]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Marine Electronics]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Subscriber Only]]></category>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.practical-sailor.com/?p=893900</guid>
<description><![CDATA[<p>While you may feel the pressure to constantly update your boat tech, its important to understand which features are worth opening your wallet for. The latest advancements offer ways to stay connected with loved ones and monitor your boat from afar, for example, among myriad other features. The latest developments in solar, batteries/controllers, cloud-based apps, […]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/marine-electronics/sailboat-tech-whats-worth-it-and-whats-not">Sailboat Tech: What’s Worth it and What’s Not</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>
]]></description>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>While you may feel the pressure to constantly update your boat tech, its important to understand which features are worth opening your wallet for. The latest advancements offer ways to stay connected with loved ones and monitor your boat from afar, for example, among myriad other features. The latest developments in solar, batteries/controllers, cloud-based apps, fridges and beyond allow sailors to navigate and live at sea in more modern ways, while the advancements draw less power and come in lighter weight packages. As a boat surveyor, I’ve seen how boat tech has been changing over the decades and what follows are my observations as to what new tech is most popular—and which tech needs further development before its worthwhile to invest in.</p><div class="wp-block-group">
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</div><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/marine-electronics/sailboat-tech-whats-worth-it-and-whats-not">Sailboat Tech: What’s Worth it and What’s Not</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>
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<title>Spiffy Teak Tips for the Penny Pincher</title>
<link>https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/spiffy-teak-tips-for-the-penny-pincher</link>
<comments>https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/spiffy-teak-tips-for-the-penny-pincher#comments</comments>
<dc:creator><![CDATA[Darrell Nicholson]]></dc:creator>
<pubDate>Mon, 07 Jul 2025 08:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
<category><![CDATA[Boat Maintenance]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Cleaning Waxing]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[DIY Projects]]></category>
<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.practical-sailor.com/uncategorized/spiffy-teak-tips-for-the-penny-pincher</guid>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Most teak cleaners don't just clean; they also remove weathered woods surface fibers and expose new wood. As much as 0.010 inches of surface teak can be removed in a single cleaning when using some common teak-cleaning products. Regularly cleaning with these products will shorten a teak decks life. Some also contain strong alkalis that can harm paint, caulk, and aluminum.</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/spiffy-teak-tips-for-the-penny-pincher">Spiffy Teak Tips for the Penny Pincher</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>
]]></description>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Most teak cleaners don’t just clean, they also remove weathered woods surface fibers and expose new wood. As much as 0.010 inches of surface teak can be removed in a single cleaning when using some common teak-cleaning products. Regularly cleaning with these products will shorten a teak deck’s life. Some also contain strong alkalis that can harm paint, caulk and aluminum.</p>
<p>The chemical makeup is similar for most commercial teak cleaners: They use organic acids (usually oxalic acid) to break down difficult stains, and surfactants help remove oils and increase acid penetration. Two-part teak cleaners complete the cleansing with a neutralizer/mild cleaner.</p>
<p>In past reports, we tested and compared commercially available teak cleaners (see “<a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/cleaning-the-teak-what-works-and-what-works-faster">Cleaning the Teak: What Works and What Works Faster</a>” and “<a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/two-part-teak-cleaners">Two-Part Teak Cleaners</a>“). For this report, we made our own inexpensive, do-it-yourself teak cleaners and compared their performance to that of the store-bought products.</p>
<h2><strong>What We Tested</strong></h2>
<p>We used Star brite Sea Safe Teak Cleaner and Brightener as a baseline for comparing our homebrew recipes performance. The DIY cleaner recipes focused on ingredients that are inexpensive and widely available. The DIY formulas we tested used oxalic acid, bleach, borax powder, lactic acid, ammonia, and a popular alkaline cleaner as active ingredients. We also tested a borax solution as a second cleaning step, using it to neutralize residual acid, clean, and provide anti-fungal properties.</p>
<h2><strong>How We Tested</strong></h2>
<p>After narrowing down the field, we tested the more promising homebrew formulas on an acacia-wood cockpit grating. We brush-applied each test cleaner to one plank, waited 10 minutes, brushed across the grain for about five seconds, and then, rinsed. Two test boards—one cleaned with oxalic acid and the other with Star brite Sea Safe (which contains oxalic acid)—were cleaned with the borax solution as a second step, followed by a very light scrub. We noted each cleaners results and relative ease of use.</p>
<p>We left the cleaned samples in a damp, shaded area for two months to see whether some better resisted soil and mildew. The most promising formulations advanced in the testing rotation and were also tested on teak decks.</p>
<h3><strong>Effect on Aluminum </strong></h3>
<p>To determine whether the cleaners would harm aluminum, we brush-applied each product to a section of scrap aluminum toerail, and allowed it to sit for 20 minutes before rinsing. All of these products have the potential to discolor aluminum—although only one actually discolored it in testing—so it is prudent to test a spot for 10 minutes to determine whether the product is compatible with the alloy you have, and treat only what you can scrub and rinse in five to 10 minutes.</p>
<figure class="null figure-width-">
<figure style="width: 675px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="figure-max-height" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/p1abr7f47cq6o1qm93bus3u8m56.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="teak cleaner" width="675" height="450" /><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Whatever cleaner you use on your teak, you will want to rinse thoroughly with water, especially around aluminum hardware.</figcaption></figure></figure>
<h2><strong>Observations</strong></h2>
<p>All of the formulations we reviewed are corrosive and irritate the skin. Gloves and waterproof kneepads are required when applying them. A respirator isn’t necessary, but you might want eye protection. In all but the most sensitive areas, the homemade cleaners can be used on the water without doing any harm to the environment.</p>
<p>Borax and ammonia are alkaline cleaners, so don’t mix them with acid cleaners. Because phosphate (TSP) contributes to algae blooms, we did not include it in our test. A simple scrubbing with water was ineffective on stains.</p>
<p>Observing the products after 60 days in a damp location revealed no changes in our performance rankings. Relative performance on teak and acacia were very similar.</p>
<figure class="right figure-width-350">
<figure style="width: 675px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="figure-max-height" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/p1abr7h70f19pp1060u2f1maa6n48.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="1. A look at the test panels after cleaning. Cleaning with oxalic acid, followed by a borax solution, got the best result, though the Star brite took less scrubbing. The far right, top row sample is a control, scrubbed only with plain water. 2. The test panels before cleaning; note that the Star brite sample was a bit worse off to start with." width="675" height="552" /><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">1. A look at the test panels after cleaning. Cleaning with oxalic acid, followed by a borax solution, got the best result, though the Star brite took less scrubbing. The far right, top row sample is a control, scrubbed only with plain water. 2. The test panels before cleaning; note that the Star brite sample was a bit worse off to start with.</figcaption></figure></figure>
<h3><strong>Star brite Sea Safe<img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-893932 alignright" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/18592238_1500-e1751058263495-197x300.jpeg.optimal.jpeg" alt="" width="197" height="300" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/18592238_1500-e1751058263495-197x300.jpeg.optimal.jpeg 197w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/18592238_1500-e1751058263495-300x457.jpeg.optimal.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/18592238_1500-e1751058263495-400x609.jpeg.optimal.jpeg 400w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/18592238_1500-e1751058263495.jpeg.optimal.jpeg 432w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 197px) 100vw, 197px" /></strong></h3>
<p>Star brite’s Sea Safe Teak Cleaner and Brightener is based on oxalic acid with the addition of organic surfactants. It provided good cleaning with slightly less scrubbing than oxalic acid alone. We tested it undiluted, and the end result was very similar to using just oxalic acid.</p>
<p>Sea Safe costs $36 for a 32-ounce bottle.</p>
<p><strong>Bottom line:</strong> We Recommend the Sea Safe for teak cleaning.</p>
<h3><strong>Oxalic Acid</strong></h3>
<p>The most common active ingredient in acid-based teak cleaners is oxalic acid, which is often supplemented with additional cleaning agents. However, our testing suggests that oxalic acid (1 cup per quart of warm water) alone does an excellent job, perhaps requiring a little more scrubbing. Because it lacks surfactants, it may be less effective on teak that has been oiled and is black with dirt, but we couldn’t tell the difference.</p>
<p>Oxalic acid, often referred to as wood bleach, was once a common hardware store chemical, but in most places, you must now order it online.<img decoding="async" class="wp-image-893933 alignleft" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/22e5b136-40b8-482f-87e5-d997c270890a.avif" alt="" width="200" /></p>
<p>We used Savogran’s Wood Bleach for testing, and it cost $12.99 for a 12-ounce tub. The Wood Bleach product is technical-grade oxalic acid; it has no additives and-despite the name-it does not contain sodium hypochlorite. Any brand of plain oxalic acid would have the same result.</p>
<p><strong>Bottom line:</strong> Cheap and effective, oxalic acid is our Best Choice and Budget Buy pick for reviving neglected teak with a DIY cleaner.</p>
<h3><strong>Clorox Bleach</strong></h3>
<p>Chlorine bleach is a mainstay ingredient for washing residential decks. It lightens the wood and removes grime quickly; supplementing with 1 cup of borax per gallon of water helps with cleaning, if the grime is very heavy. However, many teak-decking and marine-cleaner manufacturers advise against using bleach on teak decks as it will wear away the teak more quickly than other chemicals. Also, if you like the rich colors of teak, bleach (1 cup per quart of water) may lighten the wood too much for your tastes. It was the only formula tested that discolored aluminum.</p>
<p>You can find bleach in any grocery or big box store for less than $3 per gallon.</p>
<p><strong>Bottom line:</strong> Save the bleach for the most extreme cases of staining when nothing else works; keep it off aluminum.</p>
<h3><strong>Jelmar CLR</strong></h3>
<p>Based on lactic acid instead of oxalic acid, Jelmar’s CLR is more gentle and consequently less effective for teak cleaning. We tested CLR (Calcium, Lime and Rust remover) undiluted, since that gave an acid content similar to the Star brite Sea Safe. It’s not recommended for wood, and like many acids, it lightens wood.</p>
<p>CLR costs a little less than $6 for a 28-ounce bottle.</p>
<p>Bottom line: Though it’s little help with stained teak, CLR is a good choice for tasks that call for gentler acids.</p>
<h3><strong>Borax<img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-893937 alignright" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/51ozZrjc-FL._AC_-216x300.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="216" height="300" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/51ozZrjc-FL._AC_-216x300.jpg.optimal.jpg 216w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/51ozZrjc-FL._AC_-300x416.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/51ozZrjc-FL._AC_.jpg.optimal.jpg 346w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 216px) 100vw, 216px" /></strong></h3>
<p>Borax is an active ingredient in many cleaners. In prior tests, we’ve seen that borax is among the most effective anti-mildew agents for natural materials, and the USS Constellation, launched in 1854, is preserved in part by regular applications of borax.</p>
<p>In this round of tests, borax (a half-cup per quart of warm water) was moderately effective, but not as effective as acid-based cleaners. However, borax is gentle on wood and aluminum toerails, and it imparts some temporary rot protection. It also provided some additional brightening when used as a second step after acid cleaners.</p>
<p>We tested the U.S. Borax Inc. brand, which cost less than $6 for 76 ounces.</p>
<p><strong>Bottom line:</strong> Although it is not the most effective teak cleaner, borax is Recommended for routine cleaning and as a neutralizing rinse after using an acid cleaner.</p>
<h3><strong>LA’s Totally Awesome</strong></h3>
<p>A basic alkaline cleaner, LA’s Totally Awesome was anything but. It was not effective on soaked-in stains or for restoring teaks natural color. Also, the biodegradability of its surfactants is not known, so caution should be taken when using it near the water. We found it selling online for $2 for 16 ounces.</p>
<p><strong>Bottom line:</strong> Totally Awesome is not Recommended for cleaning teak.</p>
<h3><strong>Ammonia</strong></h3>
<p>Cleaning with ammonia was suggested by a reader, and it surprised us with very good results. It appeared to raise the grain just a bit more than other products, but there were considerably fewer wood fibers in the rinse water. It showed some potential for discoloring aluminum. Ammonia is also sometimes used by finish carpenters to darken wood, particularly white oak; so test it in an inconspicuous spot first. Use undiluted.</p>
<p>We used the Up-and-Up brand (Target store brand) for testing. It sells for about $1.25 for a 64-ounce bottle.</p>
<p><strong>Bottom line:</strong> Cheap, safe, and effective, ammonia is Recommended.</p>
<h2><strong>Conclusions</strong></h2>
<p>Sure, you can buy a marine teak cleaner and it will work, but you can’t go wrong by trying a homebrew first; they are inexpensive and can be very effective. Our recommendation is to use a borax solution (half-cup of borax per quart of water) as a periodic cleaning aid, whenever water alone is not enough.</p>
<p>When serious cleaning is required—and this should be done no more often than annually because of wear and tear on the wood—our choice is an oxalic acid solution (one cup of plain oxalic acid mixed with one quart of warm water). If desired, a borax solution (half-cup of borax per quart of warm water) can be used as a second step to neutralize residual oxalic acid, brighten the wood, and impart some temporary mildew protection.</p>
<div class="su-box su-box-style-default" id="" style="border-color:#000000;border-radius:3px;"><div class="su-box-title" style="background-color:#333333;color:#FFFFFF;border-top-left-radius:1px;border-top-right-radius:1px">Teak Cleaners</div><div class="su-box-content su-u-clearfix su-u-trim" style="border-bottom-left-radius:1px;border-bottom-right-radius:1px">
<figure><img decoding="async" style="cursor: pointer;" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/penny-pincher-1.jpg" /></figure>
<p><strong>Updated price/ounce as used:</strong> Star brite Sea Safe ($0.66), Savogran Wood Bleach (Oxalic Acid) ($0.27), Clorox bleach ($0.02), Jelmar CLR ($0.34), 20 Mule Team borax ($0.02), LA’s Totally Awesome ($0.29), Target ammonia ($0.02).</p>
</div></div><div class="su-box su-box-style-default" id="" style="border-color:#000000;border-radius:3px;"><div class="su-box-title" style="background-color:#333333;color:#FFFFFF;border-top-left-radius:1px;border-top-right-radius:1px">Teak Cleaner Tips</div><div class="su-box-content su-u-clearfix su-u-trim" style="border-bottom-left-radius:1px;border-bottom-right-radius:1px">
<p>Practical Sailor solicited teak care tips from a few industry veterans, and we found that maintenance methods are like snowflakes: No two are alike.</p>
<p>John Neal, former captain of <em>Mahina Tiare II</em>, a Hallberg-Rassy 46 sail-training ship said he rinsed the deck regularly and that once a year, he washed the decks with a very soft, fluffy brush and a solution of fresh water, bleach and dish soap. He let it sit for five minutes or less, and then thoroughly rinsed the deck. Once or twice a year, Neal used a borax solution to prevent mildew.</p>
<p>Teak-deck manufacturer Teak Decking Systems cautions against using bleach on decks, as does Star brite’s former Vice President Jeff Tieger. For regular maintenance, Tieger suggested washing down the decks with fresh water and a mild boat soap. For bigger jobs, he recommended a teak cleaner or brightener. According to Tieger, sealing the deck with an oil or sealer will prolong the life of the teak and will protect the wood from getting the washboard look when the soft grains wear away.</p>
</div></div><div class="su-box su-box-style-default" id="" style="border-color:#000000;border-radius:3px;"><div class="su-box-title" style="background-color:#333333;color:#FFFFFF;border-top-left-radius:1px;border-top-right-radius:1px">Contacts</div><div class="su-box-content su-u-clearfix su-u-trim" style="border-bottom-left-radius:1px;border-bottom-right-radius:1px">
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.thecloroxcompany.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Clorox</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.jelmar.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Jelmar</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.lastotallyawesome.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener">L.A.</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.savogran.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Savogran</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.starbrite.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Star Brite</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.target.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Up-and-up</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.borax.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener">U.S. Borax Inc.</a></li>
</ul>
</div></div>
<p><em>This article was originally published on 18 February 2016 and has been updated. </em></p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/spiffy-teak-tips-for-the-penny-pincher">Spiffy Teak Tips for the Penny Pincher</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>
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<title>Some Propane Dos and Don’ts</title>
<link>https://www.practical-sailor.com/systems-propulsion/some-propane-dos-and-donts</link>
<comments>https://www.practical-sailor.com/systems-propulsion/some-propane-dos-and-donts#comments</comments>
<dc:creator><![CDATA[Darrell Nicholson]]></dc:creator>
<pubDate>Mon, 07 Jul 2025 08:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
<category><![CDATA[Cabin Comfort]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Galley]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Systems & Propulsion]]></category>
<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.practical-sailor.com/uncategorized/some-propane-dos-and-donts</guid>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Theres nothing more satisfying than capping a pleasant day on the water with a good meal, be it burgers and dogs on the grill or some fancy, culinary extravaganza whipped up by the galley wizard. Most marine stoves and grills use liquefied petroleum gas (LPG). Its efficient, relatively cheap, and widely available. Its also highly explosive-particularly with regards to boat installations-which makes proper installation and regular inspection so critical in onboard systems.</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/systems-propulsion/some-propane-dos-and-donts">Some Propane Dos and Don’ts</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>
]]></description>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<figure class="null figure-width-300"></figure>
<p>There’s nothing more satisfying than capping a pleasant day on the water with a good meal, be it burgers and dogs on the grill or some fancy, culinary extravaganza whipped up by the galley wizard. Most marine stoves and grills use liquefied petroleum gas (LPG). It’s efficient, relatively cheap, and widely available. Its also highly explosive-particularly with regards to boat installations-which makes proper installation and regular inspection so critical in onboard systems.</p>
<p>LPG, a combination of propane and butane, is a gas that changes to a liquid form when pressurized, a trait that allows for easy storage in its concentrated, liquid form. Once this pressure is removed, it changes back into a gas for use in stoves, grills, and the like.</p>
<figure class="right figure-width-288">
<figure style="width: 265px" class="wp-caption alignright"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="figure-max-height" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/propane3-2.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="lpg locker meeting American Boat and Yacht Council safety standards" width="265" height="379" /><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">The Hunter e33’s LPG locker (above) comes close to meeting American Boat and Yacht Council safety standards, but the bilge pump handle on the locker’s inner lid means it’s not a dedicated storage space.</figcaption></figure></figure>
<p>One downside of LPG is that it’s heavier than air, which means it tends to “flow” like water, seeking the lowest possible point. This typically isn’t a problem with shore installations, as there tends to be more airflow to help disperse leaking gas; however, boat installations are another matter. A boat’s hull is essentially a watertight envelope, meaning explosive gases can be trapped in bilges or other low areas, where they can rapidly accumulate to explosive concentrations. LPG suppliers are required by law to add an odorant in order to make leaks more noticeable, but just because you can’t smell gas doesn’t mean it isn’t there; the gas can remain after the odorant has dissipated.</p>
<p>The goal of any LPG system inspection is to prevent (or locate) gas leaks. In this article, we’ll cover basic LPG system installations and inspections, however always seek professional advice from a certified LPG installer if you’re unsure about any aspect of inspecting or maintaining your LPG system.</p>
<h2><strong>Fuel Cylinders and Storage</strong></h2>
<p>All LPG cylinders must meet Department of Transportation (DOT) or American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME) requirements. You can verify whether a tank is acceptable by looking for a stamp from one of these organizations near the tank valve. LPG storage tanks can be mounted on deck or in a dedicated storage locker; however, they must be properly secured in an upright or horizontal position, depending on the design of the tank.</p>
<p>Tanks designed to be mounted vertically should never be installed in a horizontal position, which could allow liquid LPG to flow through the regulator and into the system, causing flare-ups and all manner of nasty things. The above applies to all tanks, regardless of their status (full, empty, disconnected reserve cylinders, etc.).</p>
<p>Cylinders mounted on deck have to be located in a well-ventilated area where leaking gas will flow directly overboard; they must be readily accessible and be protected against weather and/or mechanical damage. The aft portion of the vessel is typically better in this regard, as tanks will be less exposed to saltwater spray and its corrosive effects.</p>
<p>According to the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC), dedicated LPG storage lockers must be vapor tight to the vessel’s interior, located above the waterline, and be constructed of or lined with corrosion-resistant materials. Check that your locker has a gasketed cover that latches tightly, opens only from the top, and can be quickly opened without tools, so you can easily access the tank shutoff valve during an emergency.</p>
<figure class="right figure-width-350">
<figure style="width: 380px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><a href="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/propane3-3.jpg.optimal.jpg"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="figure-max-height td-modal-image" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/propane3-3.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="LPG storage locker installation" width="380" height="454" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Illustration by Regina Gallant</figcaption></figure></figure>
<p>LPG lockers are required to open directly to open air. However, an after-market, standalone locker like those Trident Marine sells can be located inside a cockpit locker if they are mounted so that the LPG locker lid can’t be opened without opening the cockpit locker first. All LPG lockers must also have a dedicated drain at the bottom that vents directly overboard; the drain must be a minimum of a half-inch in diameter.</p>
<p>An LPG locker must be a dedicated space. That means all non-LPG system items—shackles, tools, etc.—must be removed as they can easily damage system components. When inspecting the locker, check the bottom, sides, and seams for damage (corrosion, cracks, holes) that could allow gas leaks into the boat interior.</p>
<p>For internal lockers, ensure the locker vent hose slopes downward and is free of blockages, loops, and kinks. The discharge outlet must be located below the locker and must exit the hull above the static waterline, at least 20 inches away from any other opening (air intakes, sink or bilge pump discharges, engine exhaust, etc.) that could allow gas to re-enter the hull.</p>
<p>A note of caution about external, stern-rail mounted LPG lockers: Most stern rails are not designed to withstand the loads induced by waves breaking over the external locker, so storing your LPG tank on the stern rail runs the risk of losing the rail in foul weather.</p>
<h2><strong>Shut-Off Valves</strong></h2>
<p>Every LPG system is required to have a readily accessible manual or electrically operated (e.g., solenoid) shut-off valve installed in either the low- or high-pressure line at the cylinder. Check that the valve or solenoid remote control is located in the vicinity of the appliance it serves and is mounted so you can operate it without reaching over the top of any open flame (such as a stove burner).</p>
<p>For a corrosion-resistant solenoid valve, David Anderson of Sure Marine Service, recommends using one made of marine-grade stainless steel. He said that the common cadmium-plated steel solenoids will rust in short order on a boat.</p>
<figure class="right figure-width-288">
<figure style="width: 280px" class="wp-caption alignright"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="figure-max-height" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/propane3-4.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="LPG cylinder storage locker ventilation" width="280" height="207" /><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">LPG cylinder storage locker ventilation can’t be connected with other piping; here, a siphon vent for the engine exhaust has been T’d into the LPG storage locker vent hose.</figcaption></figure></figure>
<h2><strong>Fuel Lines</strong></h2>
<p>Copper hose is used throughout the world in most LPG installations, but flexible, high-pressure hose is another option worth considering. Both types have their pros and cons: Flexible hose allows for gimballing stoves and resists vibration better than copper, but copper withstands chafing (and rat gnawing, see sidebar) better than flexible hose. Installations that use flexible hose should include chafe protection.</p>
<p>Whether you use copper or flexible hose, it’s imperative that you visually inspect lines for cracks, brittleness, kinks and chafing, ensuring each is protected by grommets at bulkheads, partitions or deck penetrations. For copper lines, in addition to chafe protection, verify that all fittings are long nut-flare fittings; short nut fittings (such as those used in refrigeration systems) are less reliable and prone to failure due to vibration.</p>
<p>Check the outer jacket of flexible hose for markings that indicate compliance with Underwriters Laboratory UL21 LP Gas Hose. Verify that all end fittings are permanent types such as a swaged sleeve or sleeve and threaded insert; hose clamp fittings are a big no-no.</p>
<p>Finally, each appliance (galley stove, cockpit grill, etc.) has to have its own dedicated supply line, with each one originating from inside the propane locker or tank enclosure at the solenoid valve. The supply line must be a continuous run, with no breaks, connections, or Ts in order to reduce the possibility of leaks.</p>
<figure class="right figure-width-288">
<figure style="width: 280px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="figure-max-height" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/propane3-6.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="storing flares in lpg locker" width="280" height="268" /><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">In our opinion, an LPG locker is a particularly poor place to store flares, as this boat owner was inclined to do.</figcaption></figure></figure>
<h2><strong>Regulators, Gauges, Leak Tests</strong></h2>
<p>Every LPG system has to have a pressure regulator designed for use with LPG. For deck-mounted cylinders, verify that the regulator’s relief valve outlet discharges outside the boat at least 20 inches from any hull opening (just like the locker discharge).</p>
<p>LPG systems are also required to have a pressure gauge installed on the cylinder side of the pressure regulator. This gauge allows you to quickly and easily check the system for leaks using a leak down test. To conduct a leak down test, turn on an LPG appliance (the stove or grill), then close all the burner valves but leave the solenoid switch on. Note the pressure gauge reading, then close the tank valve. The gauge reading should remain constant for at least three minutes. If the pressure drops, then you have a leak (or leaks) and you must inspect the entire system before using any connected appliance.</p>
<p>Check your LPG system regularly for leaks or anytime you fire up that stove or grill. Leaks can occur anywhere in the system due to chafe or physical damage to supply lines or other components, but they typically occur at fittings and connections. To locate leaks in the system, you can use leak detection fluid or concoct a detergent-water solution. Liquid dishwashing soap mixed with water will produce the most bubbles. Don’t use solutions containing ammonia, which will attack brass fittings, and unless you want top billing at the Darwin Awards, never use a flame to check for LPG leaks.</p>
<figure class="right figure-width-288">
<figure style="width: 280px" class="wp-caption alignright"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="figure-max-height" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/propane3-9.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="failed marine grill propane system" width="280" height="210" /><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">This system fails to meet ABYC standards for LPG system installations. The cylinder is not secure, there’s no shut-off valve operable from the vicinity of the LPG appliance nor is there a pressure gauge. Another no-no: The tank is in close proximity to openings into the vessel interior.</figcaption></figure></figure>
<p>Mix the soap-water solution in a spray bottle and stream spray (don’t mist) it onto hoses, connections, and other parts of the system. You can also use a sponge or rag to apply the solution, but we’ve found a spray bottle to be fastest, and it can get to hard-to-reach places. If you see bubbles, there’s a leak.</p>
<p>Installation of a marine-grade LPG sniffer or fume detector is also highly recommended. If you have one installed, be sure that the gas sensor is mounted as low as possible and near the range (where leaking gas is likely to accumulate) and that you test sensor operation on a regular basis. Other desirable safety upgrades include installing smoke and carbon-monoxide detectors.</p>
<p>Best practices when cooking with LPG is to leave one burner ignited after cooking and turn off the solenoid or tank valve. When the flame goes out, close the burner valve; this empties the line of gas and prevents leaking should a burner valve fail to seal. It’s also a good idea to close the LPG tank valve in addition to the solenoid valve when the system is not in use, particularly if you plan on leaving the boat for an extended period of time. (The solenoid should always be closed when the system is not in use.)</p>
<div class="su-box su-box-style-default" id="" style="border-color:#00586d;border-radius:3px;"><div class="su-box-title" style="background-color:#158ba0;color:#ffffff;border-top-left-radius:1px;border-top-right-radius:1px">LPG the Right Way</div><div class="su-box-content su-u-clearfix su-u-trim" style="border-bottom-left-radius:1px;border-bottom-right-radius:1px">
<figure id="attachment_88415" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-88415" style="width: 350px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-88415" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/grilling.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="350" height="261" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/grilling.jpg.optimal.jpg 922w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/grilling-300x224.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/grilling-768x573.jpg.optimal.jpg 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/grilling-265x198.jpg.optimal.jpg 265w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/grilling-696x519.jpg.optimal.jpg 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/grilling-400x298.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-88415" class="wp-caption-text">Be sure your grill is well secured before firing it up. The Magma kettle grill (above) was one of testers’ favorites in our review of marine barbecue grills, see “<a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/belowdecks-amenities/six-model-barbeque-test">Three-Model BBQ Test</a>“.</figcaption></figure>
<p>Whether you’re installing an onboard LPG system for the first time or preparing for your regular inspection, here are some tips and reminders to help ensure it’s done right.</p>
<h3><strong>Tape, Thread Sealant, or au Natural?</strong></h3>
<p>In addition to the specialty fitting used at the tank, typical marine LPG system connectors include quarter-inch or 3/8-inch national pipe thread (NPT) and/or 45-degree SAE flare connections (male and female). Only NPT fittings require the use of Teflon (PTFE) tape or thread sealant (aka pipe dope) on the threads; SAE flare connections are self-sealing.</p>
<p>Either Teflon tape or thread sealant will work fine, so choosing which one to use boils down to personal choice. But just use one, not both—using both is counterproductive and not recommended—and be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions.</p>
<p>The yellow variety of Teflon tape is specifically designed for LPG systems; it’s thicker and more durable than the white PTFE tape, which is normally used for water pipe joints.</p>
<p>When applying Teflon tape, wrap three or four layers around the connector threads, avoiding any tape overlap at the end of the hose, which could come loose and cause clogging issues in the system. Next, insert the fitting and twist until hand tight, then snug it up with a wrench, but don’t over-tighten (which can damage both fitting and threads). Finally, test the fitting for leaks using leak detection fluid or the DIY water-soap solution. If leaks are found, try gently tightening the fitting a bit and retesting. If it still leaks, replace the fittings and try again until all leaks are fixed.</p>
<h3><strong>Tips for Safe Grilling</strong></h3>
<p>Because grills are located above decks, boaters tend to treat them with a more cavalier safety attitude than galley ranges—bad idea. According to the Insurance Information Institute, each year, grills cause more than 2,000 fires, over 300 related injuries, and at least three deaths. Here are a few tips on how to avoid becoming a barbecue statistic.</p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure your grill is mounted securely and in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Avoid using camp-type grills on a boat; they typically have no means to be properly mounted.</li>
<li>As with your galley stove, grill burner controls should have two-stage operation when going from “off” to “on” to prevent accidentally opening the valve during handling or storage, and the controls should be located at the front of the grill so you can operate them without reaching over the burner.</li>
<li>If your grill is fueled by an LPG system, inspect the system frequently. If it uses portable gas cylinders, they must be DOT-approved 2P/2Q 8-ounce units with rim vent releases.</li>
</ol>
</div></div><div class="su-box su-box-style-default" id="" style="border-color:#00586d;border-radius:3px;"><div class="su-box-title" style="background-color:#158ba0;color:#ffffff;border-top-left-radius:1px;border-top-right-radius:1px">Fatal Boat Explosion Traced to LPG Leak</div><div class="su-box-content su-u-clearfix su-u-trim" style="border-bottom-left-radius:1px;border-bottom-right-radius:1px">
<p>At 6:30 a.m. Jan. 2, 2014, an explosion aboard a sailboat rocked the docks at the Vista Rio Hotel and Marina in Rio Dulce, Livingston, Izabal, Guatemala. Marine surveyor Capt. John Brandes (<a href="http://www.riodulcesurveyors.com/">www.riodulcesurveyors.com</a>), who was on the scene, supplied PS with the accompanying photos and details of the propane-related explosion.</p>
<p>According to Brandes, the destroyed boat was an older 37-foot Hunter, <em>Panacea</em>, that was owned by a Swedish native. The owner had been complaining of a rat problem, and it seems that overnight, a rat chewed a hole in a flexible hose in the propane supply line. When the owner lit a cigarette in the morning, it ignited an explosion that decimated the boat, fatally injured the owner, and damaged two neighboring boats.</p>
<p>The LPG-fueled stove, LPG tank, and supply hoses were later recovered from the wreckage. It was obvious that the system was an aftermarket, DIY setup that ignored ABYC safety standards. Brandes reported that the tank had no remote shutoff valve and that it was found with the valve open and almost empty, but it still had a little gas remaining that was flowing from the hose.</p>
<figure id="attachment_88418" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-88418" style="width: 226px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-88418 size-medium" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/explosion-226x300.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="226" height="300" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/explosion-226x300.jpg.optimal.jpg 226w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/explosion-300x398.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/explosion-400x531.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/explosion.jpg.optimal.jpg 518w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 226px) 100vw, 226px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-88418" class="wp-caption-text">1. Panacea’s bow minutes after the explosion. The owner crawled out of the wreckage after the explosion. Suffering first- and second-degree burns over 90 percent of his body, the owner died 10 days later.</figcaption></figure>
<figure id="attachment_88419" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-88419" style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-88419 size-medium" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/leak-300x191.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="191" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/leak-300x191.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/leak-768x490.jpg.optimal.jpg 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/leak-696x444.jpg.optimal.jpg 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/leak-400x255.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/leak.jpg.optimal.jpg 1008w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-88419" class="wp-caption-text">2. The explosion was partly caused by a leak in the propane supply line, where a rat had chewed through the hose. The rat survived the explosion and was seen floating away from the sinking boat on a blue seat cushion (black speck on cushion behind the neighboring boat in photo 3).</figcaption></figure>
<figure id="attachment_88420" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-88420" style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-88420 size-medium" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/explosionsubmerged-300x223.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="223" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/explosionsubmerged-300x223.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/explosionsubmerged-768x571.jpg.optimal.jpg 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/explosionsubmerged-265x198.jpg.optimal.jpg 265w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/explosionsubmerged-696x518.jpg.optimal.jpg 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/explosionsubmerged-400x298.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/explosionsubmerged.jpg.optimal.jpg 922w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-88420" class="wp-caption-text">3. Five minutes after the explosion, the boat was totally submerged.</figcaption></figure>
<figure id="attachment_88421" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-88421" style="width: 220px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-88421 size-medium" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/explosiondock-220x300.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="220" height="300" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/explosiondock-220x300.jpg.optimal.jpg 220w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/explosiondock-300x408.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/explosiondock-400x544.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/explosiondock.jpg.optimal.jpg 507w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 220px) 100vw, 220px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-88421" class="wp-caption-text">4. One dock neighbor, the trawler Steel Magnolia, had all of its windows and doors blown out during the explosion. None of the boats affected were insured. What could be salvaged from the wreckage was sold at auction and the proceeds went to the Hunter’s dock neighbors for damages incurred, but it did not come close to covering their total cost.</figcaption></figure>
</div></div>
<div class="su-box su-box-style-default" id="" style="border-color:#00586d;border-radius:3px;"><div class="su-box-title" style="background-color:#158ba0;color:#ffffff;border-top-left-radius:1px;border-top-right-radius:1px">INSPECTION 101: Don't Forget to Inspect the Tank</div><div class="su-box-content su-u-clearfix su-u-trim" style="border-bottom-left-radius:1px;border-bottom-right-radius:1px">
<figure id="attachment_88423" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-88423" style="width: 231px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-88423 size-medium" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/litecylinder-231x300.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="231" height="300" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/litecylinder-231x300.jpg.optimal.jpg 231w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/litecylinder-300x389.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/litecylinder-400x519.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/litecylinder.jpg.optimal.jpg 532w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 231px) 100vw, 231px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-88423" class="wp-caption-text">Lite Cylinder</figcaption></figure>
<p>In May 2013, the U.S. Department of Transportation’s Pipeline and Hazardous Materials Safety Administration (PHMSA) issued the emergency recall of 55,000 fiber-composite propane tanks manufactured by the Lite Cylinder Co., requiring that they be removed from service and terminating Lite Cylinder’s authority to re-qualify and manufacture DOT cylinders. The recall was issued after an investigation of the manufacturing site revealed unsafe conditions and practices. (We covered the recall in the August 2013 Mailport, but you can also find more information about it on the PHMSA website, <a href="https://www.phmsa.dot.gov/">www.phmsa.dot.gov</a>).</p>
<p><em>Practical Sailor</em> received a report of a cracked Ragasco gas cylinder that was sold to one of our readers in 2010. Such instances emphasize the need to regularly inspect ALL tanks—regardless of construction materials or age—and have each pressure tested at the required intervals. Things to look for during your routine tank inspections include rust or corrosion, leaks, bulges, gouges, dents, defective valves, damage to the foot ring, collar, or protective ring, and of course, evidence of heat or fire damage.</p>
<figure id="attachment_88424" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-88424" style="width: 225px" class="wp-caption alignright"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-88424 size-medium" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/ragasco-225x300.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="225" height="300" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/ragasco-225x300.jpg.optimal.jpg 225w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/ragasco-300x401.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/ragasco-400x534.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/ragasco.jpg.optimal.jpg 494w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-88424" class="wp-caption-text">Ragasco</figcaption></figure>
<p>Depending on cylinder specifications and the requalification method used, LPG tanks must be inspected and tested every five, seven or 12 years. Composite cylinders have a 15- year service life and require requalification by visual inspection and pressure testing every five years.</p>
</div></div><div class="su-box su-box-style-default" id="" style="border-color:#00586d;border-radius:3px;"><div class="su-box-title" style="background-color:#158ba0;color:#ffffff;border-top-left-radius:1px;border-top-right-radius:1px">Resources</div><div class="su-box-content su-u-clearfix su-u-trim" style="border-bottom-left-radius:1px;border-bottom-right-radius:1px">
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.tridentmarine.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Trident Marine</a></li>
<li><a href="https://ragasco.com/">Ragasco</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.suremarineservice.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Sure Marine Services</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.fireboy-xintex.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"> Fireboy-Xintex</a></li>
</ul>
</div></div>
<p><em>This article was originally published on 13 February 2014 and has been updated. </em></p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/systems-propulsion/some-propane-dos-and-donts">Some Propane Dos and Don’ts</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>
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<item>
<title>3 DIY TIPS to Make Your Sailboat Gelcoat GLOW!</title>
<link>https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/3-diy-tips-to-make-your-sailboat-gelcoat-glow</link>
<comments>https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/3-diy-tips-to-make-your-sailboat-gelcoat-glow#respond</comments>
<dc:creator><![CDATA[Tim Labute]]></dc:creator>
<pubDate>Sat, 05 Jul 2025 12:00:26 +0000</pubDate>
<category><![CDATA[Video]]></category>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.practical-sailor.com/?p=894926</guid>
<description><![CDATA[<p>DIY Sailboat Maintenance doesn’t have to be hard. Practical Sailor is constantly finding new ways to help you with your sailboat projects. This week, how to remove the oxidization from your gelcoat and bring back its shine. Also, how to keep it clean and protected from damaging UV. How to sand, buff, and wax your […]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/3-diy-tips-to-make-your-sailboat-gelcoat-glow">3 DIY TIPS to Make Your Sailboat Gelcoat GLOW!</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>
]]></description>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>DIY Sailboat Maintenance doesn’t have to be hard. <em>Practical Sailor</em> is constantly finding new ways to help you with your sailboat projects. This week, how to remove the oxidization from your gelcoat and bring back its shine. Also, how to keep it clean and protected from damaging UV. How to sand, buff, and wax your sailboat.</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/3-diy-tips-to-make-your-sailboat-gelcoat-glow">3 DIY TIPS to Make Your Sailboat Gelcoat GLOW!</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>
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<item>
<title>Valiant 40 Used Boat Review</title>
<link>https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/valiant-40-reshaping-the-cruising-hull</link>
<comments>https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/valiant-40-reshaping-the-cruising-hull#comments</comments>
<dc:creator><![CDATA[Darrell Nicholson]]></dc:creator>
<pubDate>Wed, 02 Jul 2025 08:00:15 +0000</pubDate>
<category><![CDATA[Sailboat Reviews]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Bob Perry]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Valiant 40]]></category>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.practical-sailor.com/?p=89573</guid>
<description><![CDATA[<p>The Valiant 40 has a long history. In 1972, Nathan Rothman decided to start a boatbuilding business and approached old friend Bob Perry to design the ultimate cruising yacht. At that time, Rothman and Perry were young, poor, relatively inexperienced and full of ideals. Perry accepted the offer without even asking to be paid right […]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/valiant-40-reshaping-the-cruising-hull">Valiant 40 Used Boat Review</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>
]]></description>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The Valiant 40 has a long history. In 1972, Nathan Rothman decided to start a boatbuilding business and approached old friend Bob Perry to design the ultimate cruising yacht. At that time, Rothman and Perry were young, poor, relatively inexperienced and full of ideals. Perry accepted the offer without even asking to be paid right away.</p>
<p>The decision to make the Valiant a double-ender was a marketing one based on the skyrocketing success of the Westsail 32. The Westsail had just been featured on the cover of <em>Time</em> magazine; double-enders were “in.” Rothman sent Perry a photo of Aage Nielsen’s Holger Danske and said, “Let’s have a stern like that.”</p>
<p>“So I took that fanny,” said Perry, “and with all my experience on race boats, I designed a high-performance cruising boat.” Rothman contracted with Uniflite to build the boats in Bellingham, WA, and the first Valiant was launched in 1973.</p>
<p>In the late ‘70s Rothman sold Valiant to Sam Dick Industries, who continued to build the boats under contract with Uniflite. Uniflite eventually bought the company from Sam Dick Industries. Finally, in 1984, Rich Worstell, one of Valiant’s most successful dealers, bought Valiant Yachts, and began building the boats on Lake Texoma.</p>
<p>In 1992, Worstell began building the Valiant 42, which featured a new deck, new keel, more ballast and three different interior configurations (see “<a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/used_sailboats/valiant-42">Valiant 42</a>“).</p>
<p>Until closing up shop in 2011, Worstell also manufactured the Valiant 32, 37, Pilothouse 40 and 47. Every boat was semi-custom and each Valiant buyer was encouraged to come to the factory at least three times—once to decide exactly which options they wanted, once to oversee the building and once to commission the boat.</p>
<p>“We like every customer to shake [their] boat down at our lake facility so any problems can be fixed right here at the factory,” said Worstell.</p>
<figure id="attachment_892739" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-892739" style="width: 1092px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-892739 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250124222831599-1_XLARGE.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="1092" height="849" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250124222831599-1_XLARGE.jpg.optimal.jpg 1092w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250124222831599-1_XLARGE-300x233.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250124222831599-1_XLARGE-1024x796.jpg.optimal.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250124222831599-1_XLARGE-768x597.jpg.optimal.jpg 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250124222831599-1_XLARGE-696x541.jpg.optimal.jpg 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250124222831599-1_XLARGE-1068x830.jpg.optimal.jpg 1068w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250124222831599-1_XLARGE-400x311.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1092px) 100vw, 1092px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-892739" class="wp-caption-text">A gutsy, no-nonsence passagemaker meant to protect skipper and crew come what may. Contrast this robust arrangement with the swoopy, twin-helm party boats populating popular anchorages near and far. The Valiant 40 represents another mindset. Photo courtesy of Denison Yacht Sales</figcaption></figure>
<p>Over the years Valiant has gained a considerable reputation. Veteran singlehander Francis Stokes sailed his Valiant 40 <em>Mooneshine</em> to victory (first American monohull) in the 1980 OSTAR; in 1983 Mark Schrader sailed a Valiant 40 safely around the world singlehanded, and again, in 1986-87. Schrader’s Valiant 47 <em>Lone Star</em> completed the BOC.</p>
<p>Although proud of the design’s offshore record, Perry points out that it’s not the boat for everyone. “If I were going to hang out in St. Tropez or Portofino, I’d need a different boat—no question. I’d need pointy deck shoes and a pointy boat, there’s a comfort that comes with being in a slightly less-than-all-perfect, smarmy environment—and the Valiant seems to suit that.”</p>
<h2><strong>Construction Details</strong></h2>
<figure id="attachment_892736" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-892736" style="width: 632px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-892736 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-valiant-40-selah-sail-9654453-20250526190149429-1_XLARGE.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="632" height="845" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-valiant-40-selah-sail-9654453-20250526190149429-1_XLARGE.jpg.optimal.jpg 632w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-valiant-40-selah-sail-9654453-20250526190149429-1_XLARGE-224x300.jpg.optimal.jpg 224w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-valiant-40-selah-sail-9654453-20250526190149429-1_XLARGE-300x401.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-valiant-40-selah-sail-9654453-20250526190149429-1_XLARGE-400x535.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 632px) 100vw, 632px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-892736" class="wp-caption-text">That double-ender transom will help tame any boarding seas. The arch takes a “Swiss-Army-knife” approach—a way to attach needed tools like GPS, Starlink and radar antennae, and a proper mounting location for solar panels. Photo courtesy of Denison Yacht Sales</figcaption></figure>
<h3><strong>Hull</strong></h3>
<p>Early in Valiant’s boatbuilding history, Uniflite Corporation experienced extensive hull blistering problems both above and below the waterline due to their use of a fire-retardant polyester resin. To combat the problem, Worstell began using a 100-percent isophthalic resin used in conjunction with an isophthalic gelcoat. Although tests performed by Comtex Development Corporation in Bridgewater, MA prove that vinylester blisters less readily than isophthalic resin, Worstell claims he has had no problems with blistering since 1984.</p>
<p>Valiant was convinced that the answer to hull blistering lies not just in the choice of materials but in the care with which boats are built. Resin was catalyzed a gallon at a time, and hulls were laid up by hand. Valiants also came with 21 mils of epoxy, about eight coats, applied to the bottom of the hull. Topsides were coated with Imron polyurethane paint.</p>
<p>The Valiant hull is an uncored, solid laminate. The deck is balsa-cored fiberglass with molded nonskid surface. Anywhere “stressed” through-bolts enter the deck or cabin house, Valiant put in high-density foam or hot coated the end-grain balsa to prevent water from seeping in. All heavily-loaded deck hardware, including grabrails, was installed with backing plates or heavy-duty washers. Chainplates are stainless steel straps that extend through the deck.</p>
<p>Valiant V-cut their chainplate slots so that extra 3M 5200 sealant can be forced in to form a pressure gasket against the chainplate. Two chainplates through-bolt to 1 ½-in. to 2-in. knees glassed to the inside of the hull. One of the chain plates through-bolts to the main bulkhead. All are very accessible.</p>
<figure id="attachment_89654" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-89654" style="width: 500px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-89654 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-Chain-Plate-on-deck-without-decorative-surround-2K6A5779.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="333" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-Chain-Plate-on-deck-without-decorative-surround-2K6A5779.jpg.optimal.jpg 500w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-Chain-Plate-on-deck-without-decorative-surround-2K6A5779-300x200.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-Chain-Plate-on-deck-without-decorative-surround-2K6A5779-400x266.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-89654" class="wp-caption-text">The split covering plate where chainplates penetrate allows for inspection<br />and helps form sealant into a pressure gasket.</figcaption></figure>
<p>The hull-to-deck joint on the Valiant is hard to fault. At the top of the bulwark there is an inward-turning flange. On deck, the edge of the molding turns upward to form the inner bulwark face, then outward at the top to overlap the hull flange. The joint is bedded in 5200 and through-bolted. The bulwark is then capped with a teak or aluminum rail. We would be tempted to opt for the aluminum one, since it eliminates the upkeep of teak and is more protective against chafe.</p>
<p>The rubbing strake is made of high-density foam glassed to the hull with a sacrificial teak strip on the outside. There is also a stainless rub rail option.</p>
<h3><strong>Keel</strong></h3>
<p>The keel is an external lead casting, bolted to the stainless steel bolts and backing plates. A conventional keel is standard, but some owners chose the shoal-draft model. Valiant would build the Valiant 40 keel anywhere from 5 ft. 2 in. to 6 ft. in depth, but it can only be cut down in 2-in. increments.</p>
<p>Rather than molding the skeg as an integral part of the hull, a steel weldment was encased in a two-piece fiberglass shell filled with high-density foam and mish-mash. The skeg was then epoxied to the bottom of the hull and bolted in place with stainless steel bolts, nuts, lock-washers, 5200 and a backing plate. Valiant glassed over the skeg again once it was in place to cover the seam. This type of skeg construction is very strong and should provide adequate protection if you hit a submerged object or run aground.</p>
<p>The skeg heel is through-bolted to the bottom of the skeg. The rudderpost, made of 1 ¾-in. diameter stainless steel bar, rides on three bearings—one in the gudgeon, one where the rudder post goes through the hull, and a final bearing at the top in the rudder support bracket. Like the skeg, the rudder is filled with high-density foam and mish-mash and molded in one piece with the rudderpost. Valiant fabricated over 50-percent of the components for its boats in-house, including the mast step timber which is the same for the Valiant 37, 40, 47 and Pilothouse 40.</p>
<h3><strong>Mast</strong></h3>
<figure id="attachment_892743" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-892743" style="width: 1600px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-892743 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/15_4.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="1600" height="1200" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/15_4.jpg.optimal.jpg 1600w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/15_4-300x225.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/15_4-1024x768.jpg.optimal.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/15_4-768x576.jpg.optimal.jpg 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/15_4-1536x1152.jpg.optimal.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/15_4-80x60.jpg.optimal.jpg 80w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/15_4-160x120.jpg.optimal.jpg 160w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/15_4-696x522.jpg.optimal.jpg 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/15_4-1392x1044.jpg.optimal.jpg 1392w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/15_4-1068x801.jpg.optimal.jpg 1068w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/15_4-265x198.jpg.optimal.jpg 265w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/15_4-400x300.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-892743" class="wp-caption-text">Reefing from the mast base means less friction in the system but it also means you’ll have to move out of the safety of the cockpit. Properly equipped with a harness and jacklines, this is hardly death defying but good equipment, training and mindfulness are key. Those big mast pulpits make the job safer. Photo courtesy of Waa2</figcaption></figure>
<p>To form the mast step, ½-in. aluminum plate was TIG-welded to form a massive H-beam. The H-beam was then through-bolted to the floor timbers, and the mast sits in an oval-shaped aluminum weldment that is bolted to the custom mast step. This arrangement provides a strong platform and eliminates corrosion problems that occur if a mast is stepped in the bilge. A tie-rod extends from the mast step to the deck to keep the deck from overflexing or “panting.”</p>
<h3><strong>Below Deck</strong></h3>
<p>Wooden bulkheads, which end at the cabin sole, are glassed to the hull with three layers of fiberglass mat and cloth. Valiant also glassed-in a series of 12 transverse floor timbers made of 2 ½-in. to 30-in. high-density Divinycell closed-cell foam, to stiffen the hull. Many production boats use continuous bulkheads or a molded floor pan for the same purpose. Installing floor timbers, rather than a molded fiberglass body pan, not only provides strength, it also gives Valiant the freedom to customize its interior. Valiant believes that glassing furniture to hull and bulkheads replaces the need for longitudinal stringers. (This holds true, they say, regardless of which layout you choose.) The deep bilge is gelcoated and all furniture is structurally bonded to the hull.</p>
<h3><strong>Seacocks</strong></h3>
<p>Valiant used bronze ball-valve seacocks screwed directly onto the threaded tail of the through-hull fitting. We consider this type of seacock inferior to flange-type seacocks because it can put too much stress on the fitting. We recommend a flange-type seacock with mechanical fastenings and a backing plate. If you are averse to putting holes in your hull, there is a simple solution. See “<a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/systems-propulsion/seacocks-for-thin-hulls">Seacocks for Thin Hulls</a>.”</p>
<h3><strong>Water Tanks</strong></h3>
<p>Two water tanks located under the settees port and starboard hold 140 gal of water. Tanks are built of high-density polyethylene. Each tank has a large inspection plate and vents to the bilge.</p>
<h3><strong>Corrosion Prevention and Lightning Protection</strong></h3>
<p>Valiant bonded their boats to protect them from electrolysis. Seacocks, prop shaft and all underwater hardware are tied to a 6-in. by 6-in. zinc that is recessed into the hull. On older boats we’d recommend a corrosion survey to ensure that bonding system has no stray current leaks and that the anodic protection is properly matched to prevent galvanic corrosion.</p>
<p>For lightning protection, Valiant grounded the chain plates and mast base to the keelbolts. A single sideband counterpoise, consisting of copper strapping tied to the keelbolts is also available as an option.</p>
<div class="brief"><div class="brief_title">Valiant 40: A Look from Stem to Stern</div><div class="brief_content"><p>Except for the significant blistering that plagued the Uniflite hulls, most of the problems with Valiant 40 are typical of many boats of this era or easily fixable. Owners have learned to live with many of the issues that irked our testers. Most of them have been remedied in the later Valiant 42.</p>
<ol>
<img loading="lazy" decoding="async" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-Below-waterline-IMG_3464.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="333" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-89648" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-Below-waterline-IMG_3464.jpg.optimal.jpg 500w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-Below-waterline-IMG_3464-300x200.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-Below-waterline-IMG_3464-400x266.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px" /></p>
<li>The trademark fin keel was offered in a deep (maximium 6 feet) and shoal draft versions (minimum 5’ 3”). Owners could also specify a draft in between the minimum and maximum, at 2-inch intervals.</li>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-2K6A3651.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="333" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-89649" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-2K6A3651.jpg.optimal.jpg 500w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-2K6A3651-300x200.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-2K6A3651-400x266.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px" /></p>
<li>The dual roller crowds the furler but serves its purpose. Some owners have added a small sprit, standard on the newer Valiant 42.</li>
<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-Thru-hull-2K6A5686.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="333" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-89650" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-Thru-hull-2K6A5686.jpg.optimal.jpg 500w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-Thru-hull-2K6A5686-300x200.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-Thru-hull-2K6A5686-400x266.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px" /></p>
<li>High quality silicon bronze seacocks thread directly onto the through hulls. Bolted, flanged seacocks are preferable.</li>
<img loading="lazy" decoding="async" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-C-G0213515.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="667" class="size-full wp-image-89651" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-C-G0213515.jpg.optimal.jpg 500w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-C-G0213515-225x300.jpg.optimal.jpg 225w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-C-G0213515-300x400.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-C-G0213515-400x534.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px" />
<li>A PVC chain pipe leads chain aft into the forepeak, but is prone to jamming. Some owners cut acces slots at the top for easy unjamming.</li>
<img loading="lazy" decoding="async" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-E-G0143574.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" class="size-full wp-image-89652" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-E-G0143574.jpg.optimal.jpg 500w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-E-G0143574-300x225.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-E-G0143574-265x198.jpg.optimal.jpg 265w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Patrick-Childress-E-G0143574-400x300.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px" />
<li>A lift-open hatch offers good access to the engine space.</li>
</ol>
</div></div>
<p><span style="color: #000000;"><div class="su-box su-box-style-default" id="" style="border-color:#00586d;border-radius:3px;"><div class="su-box-title" style="background-color:#158ba0;color:#FFFFFF;border-top-left-radius:1px;border-top-right-radius:1px">Valiant 40</div><div class="su-box-content su-u-clearfix su-u-trim" style="border-bottom-left-radius:1px;border-bottom-right-radius:1px"></span></p>
<div>
<figure id="attachment_890823" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-890823" style="width: 696px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-890823 size-large" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Screenshot-2025-06-06-at-10.08.09-AM-849x1024.png" alt="" width="696" height="839" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Screenshot-2025-06-06-at-10.08.09-AM-849x1024.png 849w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Screenshot-2025-06-06-at-10.08.09-AM-249x300.png 249w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Screenshot-2025-06-06-at-10.08.09-AM-768x926.png 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Screenshot-2025-06-06-at-10.08.09-AM-696x839.png 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Screenshot-2025-06-06-at-10.08.09-AM-300x362.png 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Screenshot-2025-06-06-at-10.08.09-AM-400x482.png 400w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Screenshot-2025-06-06-at-10.08.09-AM.png 866w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 696px) 100vw, 696px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-890823" class="wp-caption-text">Courtesy of Sailboatdata.com</figcaption></figure>
</div>
<div>
<table id="tablepress-529" class="tablepress tablepress-id-529">
<thead>
<tr class="row-1">
<th class="column-1">Sailboat Specifications</th><th class="column-2">Sailboatdata.com</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody class="row-striping row-hover">
<tr class="row-2">
<td class="column-1"></td><td class="column-2"></td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-3">
<td class="column-1">Hull Type:</td><td class="column-2">Fin with rudder on skeg</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-4">
<td class="column-1">Rigging Type:</td><td class="column-2">Masthead Sloop</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-5">
<td class="column-1">LOA:</td><td class="column-2">39.88 ft / 12.16 m</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-6">
<td class="column-1">LWL:</td><td class="column-2">34.00 ft / 10.36 m</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-7">
<td class="column-1">S.A. (reported):</td><td class="column-2">753.00 ft² / 69.96 m²</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-8">
<td class="column-1">Beam:</td><td class="column-2">12.33 ft / 3.76 m</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-9">
<td class="column-1">Displacement:</td><td class="column-2">22,500.00 lb / 10,206 kg</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-10">
<td class="column-1">Ballast:</td><td class="column-2">7,700.00 lb / 3,493 kg</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-11">
<td class="column-1">Max Draft:</td><td class="column-2">6.00 ft / 1.83 m</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-12">
<td class="column-1">Construction:</td><td class="column-2">FG</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-13">
<td class="column-1">Ballast Type:</td><td class="column-2">Lead</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-14">
<td class="column-1">First Built:</td><td class="column-2">1981</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-15">
<td class="column-1"># Built:</td><td class="column-2">10</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-16">
<td class="column-1">Builder:</td><td class="column-2">Valiant /Uniflite (USA)</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-17">
<td class="column-1">Designer:</td><td class="column-2">Bob Perry</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-18">
<td class="column-1"></td><td class="column-2"></td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-19">
<td class="column-1">Type:</td><td class="column-2">Diesel</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-20">
<td class="column-1">Fuel:</td><td class="column-2">47 gals / 178 L</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-21">
<td class="column-1"></td><td class="column-2"></td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-22">
<td class="column-1">Water:</td><td class="column-2">93 gals / 352 L</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-23">
<td class="column-1"></td><td class="column-2"></td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-24">
<td class="column-1">S.A. / Displ.:</td><td class="column-2">15.18</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-25">
<td class="column-1">Bal. / Displ.:</td><td class="column-2">34.22</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-26">
<td class="column-1">Disp: / Len:</td><td class="column-2">255.56</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-27">
<td class="column-1">Comfort Ratio:</td><td class="column-2">34.26</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-28">
<td class="column-1">Capsize Screening Formula:</td><td class="column-2">1.75</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-29">
<td class="column-1">Hull Speed:</td><td class="column-2">7.81 kn</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-30">
<td class="column-1">Pounds/Inch Immersion:</td><td class="column-2">1,497.92 pounds/inch</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div></div></div>
<h2><strong>Engine and Mechanical Systems</strong></h2>
<p>The Valiant has a large, well-designed engine room. There’s plenty of space to sit down to check the batteries or work on the engine or generator. However, the engine room sole, which follows the curve of the hull, is slippery. We advise coating the sole with non-skid.</p>
<p>Over the years, Valiant has used Westerbeke, Perkins and Volvo engines. The late 1980-era model we tested had a three-cylinder Volvo 2003 Turbo, rated at 42 horsepower at 3,000 rpm with a V-drive transmission and a 3:1 reduction gear. The front of the engine is accessible from the engine room for servicing filters and belts or changing the oil. The aft ends of the engine and transmission are accessible from the owner’s stateroom or head, depending on which interior layout you choose. Sound insulation is good.</p>
<p>Volvo’s flexible mounts are bolted to pieces of 4-in. by 4-in. aluminum angle through-bolted to two high-density foam beds glassed to the hull. The engine has a Volvo water-lift type exhaust system. The exhaust system hose is looped high to prevent salt water from back-siphoning into the engine. In general, installation is very good.</p>
<p>However, many mechanics believe that a turbo-charged engine is too complicated for a small boat (see “<a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/systems-propulsion/diesel-engines/diesel-mechanics-forum">Diesel Mechanics Forum</a>”). We’d prefer to see the Valiant fit with a naturally aspirated 4-cylinder engine, about 100 cubic in.</p>
<h3><strong>Electrical System</strong></h3>
<p>The electrical system includes 110-volt AC 12-volt DC service, and is controlled by a custom distribution panel mounted next to the navigator. Wiring is to ABYC specification, color-coded and neatly run through a PVC pipe to the engine room. There’s a handy pennant supplied for running extra wires.</p>
<p>Two 105-hr deep-cycle batteries came standard and owners could order two extra 105-amp hour batteries wired in parallel with the original two batteries. Many owners have changed the system, creating two nominally isolated house banks of 180-200 amp hr each, and upgraded the size of the alternator. For those who want all the amenities of home, Valiant neatly installed an auxiliary generator (Northern Lights 5 kW) behind a sound-proofed door in the aft end of the engine room. The plumbing system includes hot and cold pressure water.</p>
<h3><strong>Foot Pump</strong></h3>
<p>As an option you could also order a Whale foot pump in the galley or head that can be used fresh or salt water. We consider manual foot pump essential equipment for long-distance cruising. We’d also be tempted to purchase the handy Jabsco deck washdown pump.</p>
<h3><strong>Bilge Pump</strong></h3>
<p>The standard electric bilge pump is a Par 36600 (8 gal-per-minute capacity). This pump is inadequate for emergency bilge pumping. We’d recommend adding a second electric pump, even though there is a manual Whale Gusher mounted on the forward end of the cockpit well.</p>
<div class="brief"><div class="brief_title">Patrick Childress, Sailor Extraordinaire</div><div class="brief_content"><figure id="attachment_89577" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-89577" style="width: 500px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-89577 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Topclimber.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="750" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Topclimber.jpg.optimal.jpg 500w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Topclimber-200x300.jpg.optimal.jpg 200w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Topclimber-300x450.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Topclimber-400x600.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-89577" class="wp-caption-text">Patrick Childress introduced PS readers to an ascender that allows you to go aloft alone with minimal effort (see “Getting to the Top,” PS October 2014).</figcaption></figure>
<p>A personage no less than Patrick Childress was a devotee of the Valiant 40. He taught us a lot. He taught us how to climb our mast alone, safely and easily. He gave us step-by-step instructions to repair and paint a leaky water tank without harmful poisons or paints, and how to build a boat security system for a few bucks. He showed us how to deal with a dismasting at sea, and how to rebuild the rig from chainplate to masthead so that it would never happen again. And that is just scratching the surface of Childress’ contributions to this publication, and a bare smidgen of the practical, cheap solutions that he’s shared with the cruising community.</p>
<p>His work has appeared in nearly every major U.S. sailing publication and more recently reached a worldwide audience through the blogs, vlogs, and YouTube channel that documented he and his wife Rebecca Childress’ circumnavigation. And through it all, he was a low-key, just-the-facts dude, focused on getting the right message out—even if it meant running contrary to conventional wisdom, which it often did.</p>
<p>Patrick grew up in Miami and was soon drawn to the sea. In 1980, he set out on one of the most improbable small-boat voyages in cruising lore—a circumnavigation in a 27-foot Catalina <em>Juggernaut</em> that he’d upgraded significantly for the voyage. Three years later, he returned and began working toward his next big adventure.</p>
<p>Starting a home repair business in Rhode Island and sailing boats back and forth to the Caribbean, he and Rebecca soon earned enough freedom chips to embark on his second trip around the world with Rebecca on one of the most prudently outfitted Valiant 40s at sea today, <em>Brick House</em>.</p>
<p>On June 8, Childress died in Cape Town, South Africa of complications from COVID-19. He was 69. We will miss his wit, wisdom, and courage, though are comforted that his work lives on in this magazine, on the Web, and in the stories of friends and family who were fortunate to cross his path. To find out more about Patrick’s life and work, you can visit is blog <a href="http://whereisbrickhouse.com/"><em>www.whereisbrickhouse.com</em></a>.</p>
</div></div>
<h2><strong>Handling Under Power</strong></h2>
<figure id="attachment_892744" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-892744" style="width: 1600px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-892744 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/16_4.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="1600" height="1200" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/16_4.jpg.optimal.jpg 1600w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/16_4-300x225.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/16_4-1024x768.jpg.optimal.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/16_4-768x576.jpg.optimal.jpg 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/16_4-1536x1152.jpg.optimal.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/16_4-80x60.jpg.optimal.jpg 80w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/16_4-160x120.jpg.optimal.jpg 160w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/16_4-696x522.jpg.optimal.jpg 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/16_4-1392x1044.jpg.optimal.jpg 1392w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/16_4-1068x801.jpg.optimal.jpg 1068w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/16_4-265x198.jpg.optimal.jpg 265w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/16_4-400x300.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-892744" class="wp-caption-text">With the mast stepped amidships, the advantages of the Valiant 40’s cutter rig becomes immediately apparent. Lashing the inflatable dinghy to the coach roof keeps it well out of the way, and traversing the decks to get to the ground tackle is no obstacle. It also affords an oversize foredeck hatch and a mounting opportunity for a big horizontal windlass. Photo courtesy of Waa2</figcaption></figure>
<p>The Valiant 40 hull is easily driven; the 43-hp, Volvo 2003 Turbo at a normal cruising RPM of 2,400 gives you a speed of 6 kn through the water in flat seas. The boat handles particularly well under power in tight quarters or when docking stern-to. A two-bladed fixed propeller is standard equipment. You can order a two- or three-bladed feathering Max-Prop, which will improve your performance under power and sail. If you order the genset option, fuel is stored in two aluminum saddle tanks with a total capacity of 110 gal. Without a generator, fuel is carried in one 90-gal aluminum fuel tank. There’s a handy fuel gauge mounted at the nav station which eliminates guessing how much diesel you have left.</p>
<h2><strong>Handling Under Sail</strong></h2>
<figure id="attachment_892748" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-892748" style="width: 1200px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-892748 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/3_4-1.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="1200" height="956" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/3_4-1.jpg.optimal.jpg 1200w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/3_4-1-300x239.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/3_4-1-1024x816.jpg.optimal.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/3_4-1-768x612.jpg.optimal.jpg 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/3_4-1-696x554.jpg.optimal.jpg 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/3_4-1-1068x851.jpg.optimal.jpg 1068w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/3_4-1-400x319.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-892748" class="wp-caption-text">A double-ender design naturally means a tighter cockpit. But this Valiant 40 boasts cushions, folding table, drink holders and sun protection. Photo courtesy of Waa2</figcaption></figure>
<p>With a fine entry, a long waterline, a reasonably efficient underbody and moderate wetted surface, the Valiant sails as well as any fast cruiser of her size.</p>
<p>The Valiant’s broad, flared bow makes her least efficient in a steep chop to weather. As soon as you bear off, however, the big flared bow becomes all sailing length, and the boat becomes very powerful, especially on a reach or broad reach in heavy air. She also performs respectably downwind. She’s not as fast as a more modern, lighter racer/cruiser, but she’s no slouch, either.</p>
<p>The Valiant is cutter-rigged with the mast stepped fairly well aft. This makes for a small manageable mainsail (306 sq. ft.). and a foretriangle that is substantially larger than it would be on a typical sloop-rigged 40-footer. Still, the boat is unusually well-balanced and easy to handle. You can sail it either as a sloop or cutter (there’s a quick release option on the inner forestay), and if you’re shorthanded you’ll probably prefer the double headsail rig.</p>
<p>Perry broke tradition when he designed a fin keel and skeg rudder for the Valiant. (At that time, full keels were considered de rigueur for serious offshore cruising.) Since 1973 Perry has updated the keel twice.</p>
<p>“The initial keel was expensive and difficult to build, so Uniflite asked me to design a stiffer, less expensive one,” Perry told us. His second keel design lowered the VCG (vertical center of gravity), deepened the bilge, and generally improved the boat’s performance. It was also much easier to build. The last change was again an effort to make the building effort more efficient and provide a variety of keels.</p>
<p>“With new foil developments we thought we could make it better yet,” said Perry, “so I called up Dave Vacanti, who specializes in keels, and we came up with another foil-the same foil shape that was used on <em>Mongoose</em> in the Transpac.”</p>
<p>The later model keel packs more weight into a shorter chord length and changes the leading edge angle. With increased stability, the newer deep-keeled Valiants can carry more sail and are faster than older boats. The shoal draft models are a compromise. They don’t point as high as the 6-ft. keel, but they do permit the cruising sailor to venture into shallower waters. Unless shoal draft is critical for you, we’d stick with the normal keel.</p>
<h2><strong>On Deck</strong></h2>
<p>The Valiant came with continuous Navtec rod rigging; the inner forestay and intermediates, however, are wire. Instead of using running backstays to counteract the load of the inner forestay, the standard Valiant rig incorporates fixed intermediate shrouds which lead just behind the aft lower shrouds. The intermediates give minimal fore and aft support to the mast and could cause unnecessary chafe on the mainsail downwind. Running backstays would solve this problem.</p>
<p>A Navtec hydraulic backstay adjuster is optional, but you might want it if you go for roller-furling on the headstay. The tapered mast is custom-welded by Spar Tech Inc. in Seattle, and then painted with Imron. Sail handling hardware is excellent, with Schaefer genoa and staysail tracks. Winches are Lewmar and adequately sized.</p>
<figure id="attachment_892737" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-892737" style="width: 1130px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-892737 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122202839185-1_XLARGE.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="1130" height="850" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122202839185-1_XLARGE.jpg.optimal.jpg 1130w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122202839185-1_XLARGE-300x226.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122202839185-1_XLARGE-1024x770.jpg.optimal.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122202839185-1_XLARGE-768x578.jpg.optimal.jpg 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122202839185-1_XLARGE-80x60.jpg.optimal.jpg 80w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122202839185-1_XLARGE-160x120.jpg.optimal.jpg 160w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122202839185-1_XLARGE-696x524.jpg.optimal.jpg 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122202839185-1_XLARGE-1068x803.jpg.optimal.jpg 1068w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122202839185-1_XLARGE-265x198.jpg.optimal.jpg 265w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122202839185-1_XLARGE-400x301.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1130px) 100vw, 1130px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-892737" class="wp-caption-text">A thoughtful owner has festooned this Valiant 40 with plenty of protective canvas to ward off the effects of sun and salt. Photo courtesy of Denison Yacht Sales</figcaption></figure>
<p>The halyard winches can be mounted on the mast or on the top of the cabin trunk at the front of the cockpit. Unfortunately, the staysail winches are located directly in the way of the cockpit dodger, preventing you from swinging the winch handle in a complete circle. Wheel steering is Edson with radial drive. The drive wheel is easily accessible from the cockpit locker. The emergency tiller arm is offset 90-degrees so you don’t have to remove the wheel to install the tiller, but there’s no comfortable place to sit when using it.</p>
<p>Because the cockpit lockers are huge, the hatches should be gasketed and fitted with latches that can apply pressure to the seal. Surprisingly, there is no molded breakwater for a cockpit dodger. This makes it almost impossible to get a watertight seal around the bottom of the dodger.</p>
<p>Hatches are Lewmar except for the main hatch, which is custom-made of fiberglass and Lexan. Two dorades and a mushroom vent provide extra ventilation below. While these help beat the heat in the tropics, we are prejudiced against cutting unnecessary holes in the deck.</p>
<h2><strong>Below Deck</strong></h2>
<p>One of the biggest advantages of a semi-custom boat without a molded hull liner is the ability to alter interior arrangements to meet an owner’s needs. The Valiant 40 has two standard layouts, but when they were still operating, Worstell was willing to make any changes a buyer wanted, provided they didn’t interfere with the seaworthiness or integrity of the boat.</p>
<p>The original standard belowdecks arrangement has V-berths forward with an insert to form a double. There’s a divided chain locker in the bow and a PVC pipe can be led to a locker under the forward berth for anchor chain storage. Although we agree with keeping weight out of the bow, we’d worry about the anchor chain jamming in the PVC pipe.</p>
<figure id="attachment_890572" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-890572" style="width: 613px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-890572 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/Valiant-40-Interior-e1749081912175.png" alt="The ample main saloon features a fold-down table and two full-length settees for sea berths during long passages. Offset slightly to port, the companionway’s position allows for a bigger galley and a wider aft cabin. Courtesy of Denison Yacht Sales" width="613" height="463" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/Valiant-40-Interior-e1749081912175.png 613w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/Valiant-40-Interior-e1749081912175-300x227.png 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/Valiant-40-Interior-e1749081912175-80x60.png 80w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/Valiant-40-Interior-e1749081912175-160x120.png 160w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/Valiant-40-Interior-e1749081912175-400x302.png 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 613px) 100vw, 613px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-890572" class="wp-caption-text">The ample main saloon features a fold-down table and two full-length settees for sea berths during long passages. Offset slightly to starboard, the companionway’s position allows for a bigger galley and a wider aft cabin. Love the season-extending stove tucked in the corner. Courtesy of Denison Yacht Sales</figcaption></figure>
<p>Closed-cell foam, ½-in. thick, is used throughout the boat above the waterline for insulation. Aft of the forward berths to starboard are two cedar-lined hanging lockers plus additional storage. The head is to port. The head door has a complicated levered door handle that, on the boat we inspected did not catch properly. We prefer very simple closing devices on all doors to avoid this type of problem. There is ample locker space in the head for towel and sundries. The oval-shaped stainless steel sink is moderately deep, but we’d opt for a manual foot pump as well as the standard hot and cold pressure water.</p>
<figure id="attachment_892745" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-892745" style="width: 1600px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-892745 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/22_4.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="In the traditional layout, the functional head and shower are located just aft of the V-berth on the port. Later versions of the hull, moved the head aft, where it was more accessible from the cockpit. Photo courtesy of Waa2." width="1600" height="1200" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/22_4.jpg.optimal.jpg 1600w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/22_4-300x225.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/22_4-1024x768.jpg.optimal.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/22_4-768x576.jpg.optimal.jpg 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/22_4-1536x1152.jpg.optimal.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/22_4-80x60.jpg.optimal.jpg 80w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/22_4-160x120.jpg.optimal.jpg 160w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/22_4-696x522.jpg.optimal.jpg 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/22_4-1392x1044.jpg.optimal.jpg 1392w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/22_4-1068x801.jpg.optimal.jpg 1068w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/22_4-265x198.jpg.optimal.jpg 265w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/22_4-400x300.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-892745" class="wp-caption-text">In the traditional layout, the functional head and shower are located just aft of the V-berth on the port side. Later versions of the hull, moved the head aft, where it was more accessible from the cockpit. Photo courtesy of Waa2.</figcaption></figure>
<p>On the boat we inspected, the shower and head occupied one space. As an option, owners could order molded fiberglass shower stall with built-in seat and removable teak grates. There’s no separate shower sump; shower water is pumped directly overboard.</p>
<p>In the main cabin there are settees port and starboard with a choice of shelves or a pilot berth above the settees. You could even opt for a special television shelf. The port berth has a pull-out option that make a narrow double (6 ft. 8 in. by 3 ft. 2 in.). There is a white Formica drop-leaf dinette table that measures 3 ft. 5 in. by 4 ft. 3 in. when fully extended.</p>
<h3><strong>Galley</strong></h3>
<p>To port, aft of the saloon is a well-laid-out U-shaped galley. A four-burner Regal propane stove with oven and broiler is standard, but a Force 10 could be installed as an option.</p>
<figure id="attachment_890570" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-890570" style="width: 780px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-890570 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/Valiant-40-galley-e1749081848398.png" alt="The U-shaped galley features plenty of counter space for food prep and ample drawers and overhead cupboards for storage. Photo courtesy of Denison Yacht Sales" width="780" height="586" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/Valiant-40-galley-e1749081848398.png 780w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/Valiant-40-galley-e1749081848398-300x225.png 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/Valiant-40-galley-e1749081848398-768x577.png 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/Valiant-40-galley-e1749081848398-80x60.png 80w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/Valiant-40-galley-e1749081848398-160x120.png 160w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/Valiant-40-galley-e1749081848398-696x523.png 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/Valiant-40-galley-e1749081848398-265x198.png 265w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/Valiant-40-galley-e1749081848398-400x301.png 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 780px) 100vw, 780px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-890570" class="wp-caption-text">The U-shaped galley features plenty of counter space for food prep and ample drawers and overhead cupboards for storage. Photo courtesy of Denison Yacht Sales</figcaption></figure>
<p>Propane is stored in a vent lazarette locker holding two 11-lb. tanks. We’d prefer two 20-lb. tanks for long distance cruising, and Valiant owners have added safe on-deck storage to accommodate additional tanks. There are four, cedar-lined, lock-in-type drawers for cutlery, and oodles of storage above the sink and stove for food stores, spices and dinnerware. However, we’d like to see the large port side locker divided into smaller cubicles to keep things in order offshore.</p>
<p>There are adequate double sinks (9-in. deep) located across from the icebox. Foam insulation in the box measures only 2-in. thick on the lid, and 3-in. on the inside. This might keep things cold in northern latitude but it won’t be as effective in the tropics.</p>
<h3><strong>Nav Station</strong></h3>
<figure id="attachment_892746" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-892746" style="width: 1128px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-892746 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250124211806708-1_XLARGE.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="1128" height="846" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250124211806708-1_XLARGE.jpg.optimal.jpg 1128w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250124211806708-1_XLARGE-300x225.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250124211806708-1_XLARGE-1024x768.jpg.optimal.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250124211806708-1_XLARGE-768x576.jpg.optimal.jpg 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250124211806708-1_XLARGE-80x60.jpg.optimal.jpg 80w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250124211806708-1_XLARGE-160x120.jpg.optimal.jpg 160w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250124211806708-1_XLARGE-696x522.jpg.optimal.jpg 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250124211806708-1_XLARGE-1068x801.jpg.optimal.jpg 1068w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250124211806708-1_XLARGE-265x198.jpg.optimal.jpg 265w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250124211806708-1_XLARGE-400x300.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1128px) 100vw, 1128px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-892746" class="wp-caption-text">A flat-desk means the nav station can double as an office. You’ll also need a chartplotter repeater in the quarterberth to keep tabs when you’re off watch. Photo courtesy of Denison Yacht Sales</figcaption></figure>
<p>A good-sized nav station, facing fore and aft lies to starboard opposite the galley. The chart table is large enough for any chart folded in half and allows adequate space for electronics, navigation instruments, sextant and books. There is also storage for charts under the nav table, as well as extra under the nav seat.</p>
<p>Just starboard of the companionway ladder are three vented storage lockers. One is a wet locker with canvas that unzips for ventilation. To port of companionway is a double stateroom—again with plenty of stowage under bunks and in lockers.</p>
<h3><strong>Family-Friendly Layout</strong></h3>
<p>As an alternate arrangement, Valiant designed an interior which we think a cruising couple without children may prefer. As you come down companionway steps there’s a quarterberth to starboard, and a head to port. The layout in the main cabin is the same as the original interior layout. However, forward of the saloon on the port side is a good-sized double berth with hanging lockers and storage opposite. The forepeak then becomes a well-appointed storeroom for sails.</p>
<figure id="attachment_892738" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-892738" style="width: 1132px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-892738 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122192844574-1_XLARGE.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="The forepeak could be arranged like a traditional V-berth, but some owners opted for a pullman berth—or storage shelf and additional lockers. Photo courtesy of Denison Yacht Sales" width="1132" height="847" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122192844574-1_XLARGE.jpg.optimal.jpg 1132w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122192844574-1_XLARGE-300x224.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122192844574-1_XLARGE-1024x766.jpg.optimal.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122192844574-1_XLARGE-768x575.jpg.optimal.jpg 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122192844574-1_XLARGE-80x60.jpg.optimal.jpg 80w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122192844574-1_XLARGE-160x120.jpg.optimal.jpg 160w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122192844574-1_XLARGE-696x521.jpg.optimal.jpg 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122192844574-1_XLARGE-1068x799.jpg.optimal.jpg 1068w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122192844574-1_XLARGE-265x198.jpg.optimal.jpg 265w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122192844574-1_XLARGE-530x396.jpg.optimal.jpg 530w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1983-uniflite-valiant-40-sail-9654453-20250122192844574-1_XLARGE-400x299.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1132px) 100vw, 1132px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-892738" class="wp-caption-text">The forepeak could be arranged like a traditional V-berth, but some owners opt for a pullman berth—or storage shelf and additional lockers. Photo courtesy of Denison Yacht Sales</figcaption></figure>
<p>This layout is preferable offshore. First, the head is easily accessible from the cockpit—and aft where motion is less violent. Second, the off-watch can sleep snugly in the quarterberth, but still be in earshot of the person on deck, or within arm’s length of the nav station or galley. The double berth forward can be used for sleeping in harbor. Headroom everywhere is 6 ft. 2 in. Lighting is good throughout the boat, especially in the nav station and engine room.</p>
<h3><strong>Finishings</strong></h3>
<figure id="attachment_892750" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-892750" style="width: 1028px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-892750 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1989-valiant-40-cutter-sail-9822287-20250601082053594-1_XLARGE-e1750378142590.jpeg.optimal.jpeg" alt="The aft cabin offers a small locker and room for two. An overhead and two ports hatch provides good airflow, rarely found in many aft cabins. Photo courtesy of YachtWorld." width="1028" height="622" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1989-valiant-40-cutter-sail-9822287-20250601082053594-1_XLARGE-e1750378142590.jpeg.optimal.jpeg 1028w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1989-valiant-40-cutter-sail-9822287-20250601082053594-1_XLARGE-e1750378142590-300x182.jpeg.optimal.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1989-valiant-40-cutter-sail-9822287-20250601082053594-1_XLARGE-e1750378142590-1024x620.jpeg.optimal.jpeg 1024w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1989-valiant-40-cutter-sail-9822287-20250601082053594-1_XLARGE-e1750378142590-768x465.jpeg.optimal.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1989-valiant-40-cutter-sail-9822287-20250601082053594-1_XLARGE-e1750378142590-696x421.jpeg.optimal.jpeg 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/1989-valiant-40-cutter-sail-9822287-20250601082053594-1_XLARGE-e1750378142590-400x242.jpeg.optimal.jpeg 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1028px) 100vw, 1028px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-892750" class="wp-caption-text">The aft cabin offers a small locker and room for two. An overhead and two ports provide good airflow, rarely found in many aft cabins. Photo courtesy of YachtWorld.</figcaption></figure>
<p>The Valiant comes with two standard interiors: oiled teak or white Formica with teak trim. An interior of white Formica with teak trim is a practical combination that provides light and a feeling of space, but it may appear stark to those familiar with wood interior spaces. We’d at least opt for the white Formica with teak trim (varnished) in the head and galley.</p>
<p>The cabin sole is not a cheap veneer. It’s ½-in. teak with poplar strips mounted on ¾-in. ply. Again, we’d choose to have it varnished rather than just sealed, but some people find a varnished cabin sole too slippery.</p>
<figure id="attachment_89655" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-89655" style="width: 550px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-89655 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/insert-ps-1.png" alt="Corrected caption: Above the waterline, the Valiant 40* resembles many "salty" double enders of its era, but the moderate fin keel in place of a full keel set a trend that continues to this day. Owners had many options for interior layout. The traditional layout featured a V-berth with the head in the bow. Some version move the head aft. " width="550" height="448" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/insert-ps-1.png 550w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/insert-ps-1-300x244.png 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/insert-ps-1-400x326.png 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 550px) 100vw, 550px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-89655" class="wp-caption-text">Corrected caption: Above the waterline, the Valiant 40 resembles many “salty” double enders of its era, but the moderate fin keel in place of a full keel set a trend that continues to this day. Owners had many options for interior layout. The traditional layout featured a V-berth with the head in the bow. Some version move the head aft.</figcaption></figure>
<h2><strong>Conclusions</strong></h2>
<p>The Valiant 40 is a true high-performance bluewater cruiser. It’s also a well-built boat. You’ll be hard pressed to find another builder who was more dedicated to his product than Rich Worstell. He took pride in building the Valiant and he wanted owners to be proud of it too.</p>
<p>There are a few things we don’t like about the Valiant. Most of them have nothing to do with seaworthiness. They’re purely aesthetic. For example, the cabin trunk is too boxy for some people’s tastes, and we’d like to see the boat built with oval instead of rectangular ports. The joinerwork is good, but no better than you’ll find on other boats in this price range. Basically, the Valiant is just not as flashy as more expensive semi-custom boats like the Alden 44. But the Valiant is an honest boat. It’s strong, it’s seakindly, and as Perry so aptly said, it’s “been everywhere, and done just about everything.”</p>
<p> </p>
<div><div class="su-box su-box-style-default" id="" style="border-color:#00586d;border-radius:3px;"><div class="su-box-title" style="background-color:#158ba0;color:#ffffff;border-top-left-radius:1px;border-top-right-radius:1px">MARKET SCAN </div><div class="su-box-content su-u-clearfix su-u-trim" style="border-bottom-left-radius:1px;border-bottom-right-radius:1px"></div>
<figure id="attachment_892747" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-892747" style="width: 696px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-892747 size-large" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/3_4-1024x768.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="696" height="522" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/3_4-1024x768.jpg.optimal.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/3_4-300x225.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/3_4-768x576.jpg.optimal.jpg 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/3_4-1536x1152.jpg.optimal.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/3_4-80x60.jpg.optimal.jpg 80w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/3_4-160x120.jpg.optimal.jpg 160w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/3_4-696x522.jpg.optimal.jpg 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/3_4-1392x1044.jpg.optimal.jpg 1392w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/3_4-1068x801.jpg.optimal.jpg 1068w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/3_4-265x198.jpg.optimal.jpg 265w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/3_4-400x300.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/3_4.jpg.optimal.jpg 1600w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 696px) 100vw, 696px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-892747" class="wp-caption-text">Photo courtesy of Waa2</figcaption></figure>
<div></div>
<div>
<table id="tablepress-530" class="tablepress tablepress-id-530">
<thead>
<tr class="row-1">
<th class="column-1">Market Scan</th><th class="column-2">Contact</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody class="row-striping row-hover">
<tr class="row-2">
<td class="column-1"></td><td class="column-2"></td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-3">
<td class="column-1">1983 Valiant 40</td><td class="column-2">West Yachts</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-4">
<td class="column-1">$225,000 USD</td><td class="column-2">360-495-8736</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-5">
<td class="column-1">Edmonds, Washington</td><td class="column-2"><a href="https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/1983-valiant-40-selah-9654453/" rel="noopener" target="_blank">Yacht World</a></td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-6">
<td class="column-1"></td><td class="column-2"></td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-7">
<td class="column-1">1989 Valiant 40</td><td class="column-2">Edwards Yacht Sales</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-8">
<td class="column-1">$119,900</td><td class="column-2">866-365-0706</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-9">
<td class="column-1">Green Cove Springs, Florida</td><td class="column-2"><a href="https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/1989-valiant-40-cutter-9822287/" rel="noopener" target="_blank">Yacht World</a></td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-10">
<td class="column-1"></td><td class="column-2"></td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-11">
<td class="column-1">1992 Valiant 40</td><td class="column-2">Hartge Yacht Sales</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-12">
<td class="column-1">$115,000 USD</td><td class="column-2">410-834-8475</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-13">
<td class="column-1">Galesville, Maryland</td><td class="column-2"><a href="https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/1992-valiant-40-9683795/" rel="noopener" target="_blank">Yacht World</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div></div></div>
<div></div>
<div class="su-box su-box-style-default" id="" style="border-color:#00586d;border-radius:3px;"><div class="su-box-title" style="background-color:#158ba0;color:#ffffff;border-top-left-radius:1px;border-top-right-radius:1px">Resources</div><div class="su-box-content su-u-clearfix su-u-trim" style="border-bottom-left-radius:1px;border-bottom-right-radius:1px">
<p><strong>VALIANT</strong>,<br />
<a href="http://www.valiantsailboats.com/mac/macindex.htm">www.valiantsailboats.com</a></p>
</div></div>
<p><em>This article was originally published in December 2006 and has been updated. </em></p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/valiant-40-reshaping-the-cruising-hull">Valiant 40 Used Boat Review</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>
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<title>Is the Gulfstar 44 a STEAL of a DEAL?</title>
<link>https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/is-the-gulfstar-44-a-steal-of-a-deal</link>
<comments>https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/is-the-gulfstar-44-a-steal-of-a-deal#respond</comments>
<dc:creator><![CDATA[Tim Labute]]></dc:creator>
<pubDate>Mon, 30 Jun 2025 12:00:29 +0000</pubDate>
<category><![CDATA[Video]]></category>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.practical-sailor.com/?p=894194</guid>
<description><![CDATA[<p>If you plan to go cruising on a sailboat and sail in the ocean, the Gulfstar 44 might just be the perfect budget cruiser to look at! From the center cockpit design allowing for safety at sea and more room inside, to the available ketch rig, this cruising sailboat can be found relatively cheap, upgraded […]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/is-the-gulfstar-44-a-steal-of-a-deal">Is the Gulfstar 44 a STEAL of a DEAL?</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>
]]></description>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you plan to go cruising on a sailboat and sail in the ocean, the Gulfstar 44 might just be the perfect budget cruiser to look at! From the center cockpit design allowing for safety at sea and more room inside, to the available ketch rig, this cruising sailboat can be found relatively cheap, upgraded easily, and is ready to take your family sailing to remote destinations.</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/is-the-gulfstar-44-a-steal-of-a-deal">Is the Gulfstar 44 a STEAL of a DEAL?</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>
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<title>Preparing a Herreshoff Ketch and Motley Crew for an Epic Voyage</title>
<link>https://www.practical-sailor.com/voyaging/preparing-a-herreshoff-ketch-and-motley-crew-for-an-epic-voyage</link>
<comments>https://www.practical-sailor.com/voyaging/preparing-a-herreshoff-ketch-and-motley-crew-for-an-epic-voyage#respond</comments>
<dc:creator><![CDATA[Carolyn Powles]]></dc:creator>
<pubDate>Mon, 30 Jun 2025 08:00:57 +0000</pubDate>
<category><![CDATA[Subscriber Only]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Voyaging]]></category>
<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.practical-sailor.com/?p=892676</guid>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Sailing with four young boys aboard a 40-year-old ketch across oceans might sound like madness, but for us and many other sailing families it’s an exciting way of life that is growing in popularity. It gifts us time with our children, a life of adventure and freedom, the opportunity to explore remote places, and be immersed […]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/voyaging/preparing-a-herreshoff-ketch-and-motley-crew-for-an-epic-voyage">Preparing a Herreshoff Ketch and Motley Crew for an Epic Voyage</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>
]]></description>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sailing with four young boys aboard a 40-year-old ketch across oceans might sound like madness, but for us and many other sailing families it’s an exciting way of life that is growing in popularity. It gifts us time with our children, a life of adventure and freedom, the opportunity to explore remote places, and be immersed in culture. For us, this dream only became a reality after meticulous preparations, countless lessons learned and unwavering trust in each other and <em>Moon River</em>, a 1978 Herreshoff Mobjack ketch (see “<a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/voyaging/herreshoff-mobjack-a-familys-love-affair-with-a-traditional-ketch">Herreshoff Mobjack: A Family’s Love Affair with a Traditional Ketch</a>”).</p><div class="wp-block-group">
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</div><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/voyaging/preparing-a-herreshoff-ketch-and-motley-crew-for-an-epic-voyage">Preparing a Herreshoff Ketch and Motley Crew for an Epic Voyage</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>
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<title>Five Best Ways to Keeps Your Stuff Dry</title>
<link>https://www.practical-sailor.com/subscriber-only/five-best-ways-to-keeps-your-stuff-dry</link>
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<dc:creator><![CDATA[Drew Frye]]></dc:creator>
<pubDate>Mon, 30 Jun 2025 08:00:35 +0000</pubDate>
<category><![CDATA[Inside Practical Sailor]]></category>
<category><![CDATA[Personal Gear & Apparel]]></category>
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<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.practical-sailor.com/?p=892859</guid>
<description><![CDATA[<p>I love sailing and kayaking, and while some stuff is meant to get wet, sandwiches, cell phones and spare clothes would rather stay dry. Careful handling is often enough, but dinghy rides are unpredictable, boarding can go wrong and there is always spray underway, plus the walk to the car in the rain. This gear […]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/subscriber-only/five-best-ways-to-keeps-your-stuff-dry">Five Best Ways to Keeps Your Stuff Dry</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>
]]></description>
<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I love sailing and kayaking, and while some stuff is meant to get wet, sandwiches, cell phones and spare clothes would rather stay dry. Careful handling is often enough, but dinghy rides are unpredictable, boarding can go wrong and there is always spray underway, plus the walk to the car in the rain. This gear is proven.</p><div class="wp-block-group">
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</div><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/subscriber-only/five-best-ways-to-keeps-your-stuff-dry">Five Best Ways to Keeps Your Stuff Dry</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>
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