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<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/" xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/" xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/" > <channel> <title>Practical Sailor</title> <atom:link href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" /> <link>https://www.practical-sailor.com/</link> <description>Practical Sailor takes the guesswork out of boat & gear buying with its bold, independent, product-test reports just for serious sailors.</description> <lastBuildDate>Thu, 30 Oct 2025 16:34:21 +0000</lastBuildDate> <language>en-US</language> <sy:updatePeriod> hourly </sy:updatePeriod> <sy:updateFrequency> 1 </sy:updateFrequency> <generator>https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.3</generator> <item> <title>Top 5 Classic Cruising Sailboats — Pearson 365, Westsail 32, Alberg 37, Valiant 40, & Hinckley 40</title> <link>https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/top-5-classic-cruising-sailboats-pearson-365-westsail-32-alberg-37-valiant-40-hinckley-40</link> <comments>https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/top-5-classic-cruising-sailboats-pearson-365-westsail-32-alberg-37-valiant-40-hinckley-40#respond</comments> <dc:creator><![CDATA[Tim Labute]]></dc:creator> <pubDate>Sat, 01 Nov 2025 12:00:11 +0000</pubDate> <category><![CDATA[Video]]></category> <guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.practical-sailor.com/?p=901688</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p>Are you looking for the best classic cruisers for serious offshore sailing? Curious how the Pearson 365, Westsail 32, Alberg 37, Valiant 40, or Hinckley Bermuda 40 perform offshore, what to watch for on a used boat survey, or which refits deliver the biggest safety ROI? This 10–12 minute technical deep-dive answers those exact questions […]</p><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/top-5-classic-cruising-sailboats-pearson-365-westsail-32-alberg-37-valiant-40-hinckley-40">Top 5 Classic Cruising Sailboats — Pearson 365, Westsail 32, Alberg 37, Valiant 40, & Hinckley 40</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Are you looking for the best classic cruisers for serious offshore sailing? Curious how the Pearson 365, Westsail 32, Alberg 37, Valiant 40, or Hinckley Bermuda 40 perform offshore, what to watch for on a used boat survey, or which refits deliver the biggest safety ROI? This 10–12 minute technical deep-dive answers those exact questions with numbers, practical checks, and real-world advice.</p><a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/landing/subscribe-now?t=bottomsub"><img class="size-full wp-image-894424 aligncenter" src="https://qa.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/ps_website_ad_728x150.png" alt="" width="728" height="150" /></a><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/top-5-classic-cruising-sailboats-pearson-365-westsail-32-alberg-37-valiant-40-hinckley-40">Top 5 Classic Cruising Sailboats — Pearson 365, Westsail 32, Alberg 37, Valiant 40, & Hinckley 40</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/top-5-classic-cruising-sailboats-pearson-365-westsail-32-alberg-37-valiant-40-hinckley-40/feed</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>0</slash:comments> </item> <item> <title>Hunter 38 Used Boat Review</title> <link>https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/used_sailboats/hunter-38</link> <comments>https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/used_sailboats/hunter-38#comments</comments> <dc:creator><![CDATA[Darrell Nicholson]]></dc:creator> <pubDate>Wed, 29 Oct 2025 08:00:00 +0000</pubDate> <category><![CDATA[Sailboat Reviews]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Sailboats 36-40ft]]></category> <category><![CDATA[used_sailboats]]></category> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.practical-sailor.com/uncategorized/hunter-38</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p>Hunter's newest midsize offering combines performance and the company's historic attention to comfort. It's faster on paper than comparable boats, and priced to sell.</p><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/used_sailboats/hunter-38">Hunter 38 Used Boat Review</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hunter Marine has a reputation as a builder of boats for sailors who favor creature comforts over performance. Some models from the company have been described as “floating condos.” Say what you will, this strategy propelled Hunter to a leading spot in the U.S. sailboat industry in terms of boats sold on an annual basis in the early 2000s.</p><p>However, when Hunter hired Glenn Henderson as chief designer and engineer in 1999, former company CEO Warren Luhrs (who died in 2013) signaled that Hunter was increasing its attention to better performance. Despite being an experienced long-distance cruiser, Henderson carved his reputation as a performance-oriented designer whose creations have fared well on the racecourse. The company was sold in 2012 and renamed Marlow-Hunter, however the production of Hunter boats stopped in 2024.</p><h2><strong>Design</strong></h2><p>The Hunter 38 replaced the 386, the last of which rolled out of the Alachua, FL, plant in May, 2004, following a seven-year run. In announcing the arrival of the new boat, Henderson said: “Our goal was to design a boat that was an exceptionally comfortable cruiser, yet offered outstanding performance and easy handling. The new 38 has met expectations.”</p><h3>Wide Accomodations</h3><p>In our view, she has a Jekyll and Hyde appearance. Our first impression upon approaching the boat was that she’s just another specimen in a growing list of big-butted boats. The 12-ft. 11-in. beam is carried aft to the stern, where the athwartships measurement is 10 ft. 6 in. inside the cockpit, and freeboard is 50 in., so it’s at least two steps upward to board her at the transom. Her 6-ft. long, 20-in. wide seats surround a footwell that’s 36-in. wide at its narrowest point, and two, two-person pod seats are located on the stern rails. Clearly, the cockpit has been designed to accommodate up to eight people in comfort during the cocktail hour. And overhead, a bimini sits attached to a stout stainless steel frame.</p><figure id="attachment_900313" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-900313" style="width: 1028px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img fetchpriority="high" decoding="async" class="wp-image-900313 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-profile-e1761572488712.png" alt="The Hunter 38 features a near-plumb bow and fine entry forward, contrasting with her beamy 12-ft. 11-in. stern section designed for maximum cockpit space and interior volume. Courtesy of YachtWorld.com" width="1028" height="583" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-profile-e1761572488712.png 1028w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-profile-e1761572488712-300x170.png 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-profile-e1761572488712-1024x581.png 1024w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-profile-e1761572488712-768x436.png 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-profile-e1761572488712-696x395.png 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-profile-e1761572488712-400x227.png 400w" sizes="(max-width: 1028px) 100vw, 1028px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-900313" class="wp-caption-text">The Hunter 38 features a near-plumb bow and fine entry forward, contrasting with her beamy 12-ft. 11-in. stern section designed for maximum cockpit space and interior volume. Courtesy of YachtWorld.com</figcaption></figure><h3>Racy Elements</h3><p>Move forward 38 feet and the Mr. Hyde side presents itself; there is no comparison with her predecessor. Her fine entry and near-plumb-bow are as racy as any early 2000s boat from Farr Yacht Designs. Due to her increased waterline, she won’t lack speed. There’s also just enough working space between the mast and bow pulpit—her J measurement is just 12 ft. 1 in., which means two-thirds of the boat is aft of the mast—for a bow person to attend to sails or muscle an anchor fitted on a stainless steel bowroller at the stem. Her small foretriangle and seven-eigths rig are married to a boom that extends over the stainless bimini frame to produce end-boom sheeting angles that are more efficient than a cabintop arrangement.</p><p>When viewed from abeam at a distance, her profile complements the racy bow as she presents a high-aspect sail plan and a relatively flat sheerline. Tinted, flushmounted, fixed plexiglass ports complement her aesthetics; they measure 16 in. x 28 in., and light her interior. This boat is less chubby than her cousins; a Hunter 306 that was tethered nearby is much less comely, having the boxy appearance produced when max headroom below is more important than appearance.</p><h3>Responsive Engineering</h3><p>Of the 38’s design, Henderson told us: “Attention was given to the volumetric distribution of the hull to even out pressures of water movement, utilizing the rudder as a major lift component along with the keel. In the past, designers relied primarily on keels for lift and resisting leeway. We discovered that using a large rudder and smaller keel was better. The result is a more responsive boat.” Henderson’s statement was affirmed when we backed the 38 off the dock amidst a cluster of other boats.</p><h3>Sail Plan</h3><p>Most of this vessel’s sail power comes from the mainsail, an arrangement that Henderson favors over relying on a large jib. “The whole sail plan is aerodynamically efficient. I will not design a masthead rig sail plan because the fractional rig with large mainsail delivers better performance, and the smaller headsail means easier sailhandling for both passengers and crew.”</p><figure id="attachment_900314" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-900314" style="width: 725px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img decoding="async" class="wp-image-900314 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Sailing-e1761570525995.png" alt="The racy bow features a fine entry and compact foretriangle with the mast positioned well aft. The J measurement of just 12 ft. 1 in. reflects designer Glenn Henderson's preference for a large mainsail over a big headsail. Courtesy of YachtWorld.com" width="725" height="654" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Sailing-e1761570525995.png 725w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Sailing-e1761570525995-300x271.png 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Sailing-e1761570525995-696x628.png 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Sailing-e1761570525995-400x361.png 400w" sizes="(max-width: 725px) 100vw, 725px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-900314" class="wp-caption-text">The racy bow features a fine entry and compact foretriangle with the mast positioned well aft. The J measurement of just 12 ft. 1 in. reflects designer Glenn Henderson’s preference for a large mainsail over a big headsail. Courtesy of YachtWorld.com</figcaption></figure><p>The new 38 is outfitted with the same anodized B & R double spreader Selden mast with support struts used on Hunter’s midsized yachts; having no backstay allows Henderson to fly a mainsail with a powerful roach and still install the bimini frame over the cockpit. To tame the large mainsail, in-mast furling is an option, which was included aboard our test boat.</p><p>“Balancing the sail plan, center of gravity, and underbody is important to get all the forces concentric,” explained Henderson. “The 38 doesn’t have a lot of pitch, doesn’t pound, and is easily driven.”</p><h3>Stability</h3><p>One contributor to stability is the boat’s displacement—17,674 lb., with 6,387 lb. of lead in the keel; that produces a ballast ratio of 36.14 percent. A second is a “center of gravity lowered by using a vinyl material for the headliner, instead of heavy fiberglass. That removes 350 pounds from the boat,” he said.</p><p>The “Hunter 38 in Context” chart (see sidebar) offers a statistical comparison of Hunter’s 38 with three of her contemporaries from prominent boatbuilders. Using this reference, she should be the fastest of the bunch. It’s clear that Henderson put a new face on the designs of Hunter’s products, and that’s a good thing. However, when she inevitably turns stern to, we’ll simply grit our teeth and accept the fact that Hunter understood the creature comforts that its clients demanded.</p><p><span style="color: #000000;"><div class="su-box su-box-style-default" id="" style="border-color:#00586d;border-radius:3px;"><div class="su-box-title" style="background-color:#158ba0;color:#FFFFFF;border-top-left-radius:1px;border-top-right-radius:1px">Hunter 38</div><div class="su-box-content su-u-clearfix su-u-trim" style="border-bottom-left-radius:1px;border-bottom-right-radius:1px"></span></p><figure id="attachment_900316" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-900316" style="width: 482px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img decoding="async" class="wp-image-900316 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/04/Hunter38-linedrawing.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="Designer Glenn Henderson balanced performance with comfort by using a fin keel with spade rudder, extended 34-ft. 8-in. waterline, and fractional rig with large mainsail—making her faster on paper than comparable cruisers. Courtesy of SailboatData.com" width="482" height="1024" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/04/Hunter38-linedrawing.jpg.optimal.jpg 482w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/04/Hunter38-linedrawing-141x300.jpg.optimal.jpg 141w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/04/Hunter38-linedrawing-300x637.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2005/04/Hunter38-linedrawing-400x850.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 482px) 100vw, 482px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-900316" class="wp-caption-text">Designer Glenn Henderson balanced performance with comfort by using a fin keel with spade rudder, extended 34-ft. 8-in. waterline, and fractional rig with large mainsail—making her faster on paper than comparable cruisers. Courtesy of SailboatData.com</figcaption></figure><div><table id="tablepress-591" class="tablepress tablepress-id-591"><thead><tr class="row-1"> <th class="column-1">Sailboat Specifications</th><th class="column-2">Courtesy of sailboatdata.com</th></tr></thead><tbody class="row-striping row-hover"><tr class="row-2"> <td class="column-1">Hull Type:</td><td class="column-2">Fin w/spade rudder</td></tr><tr class="row-3"> <td class="column-1">Rigging Type:</td><td class="column-2">B&R</td></tr><tr class="row-4"> <td class="column-1">LOA:</td><td class="column-2">38.17 ft / 11.63 m</td></tr><tr class="row-5"> <td class="column-1">LOD:</td><td class="column-2">36.67 ft / 11.18 m</td></tr><tr class="row-6"> <td class="column-1">LWL:</td><td class="column-2">34.67 ft / 10.57 m</td></tr><tr class="row-7"> <td class="column-1">S.A. (reported):</td><td class="column-2">991.00 ft² / 92.07 m²</td></tr><tr class="row-8"> <td class="column-1">Beam:</td><td class="column-2">12.92 ft / 3.94 m</td></tr><tr class="row-9"> <td class="column-1">Displacement:</td><td class="column-2">18,342.00 lb / 8,320 kg</td></tr><tr class="row-10"> <td class="column-1">Ballast:</td><td class="column-2">6,128.00 lb / 2,780 kg</td></tr><tr class="row-11"> <td class="column-1">Max Draft:</td><td class="column-2">6.50 ft / 1.98 m</td></tr><tr class="row-12"> <td class="column-1">Construction:</td><td class="column-2">FG</td></tr><tr class="row-13"> <td class="column-1">First Built:</td><td class="column-2">2004</td></tr><tr class="row-14"> <td class="column-1">Builder:</td><td class="column-2">Hunter Marine (USA)</td></tr><tr class="row-15"> <td class="column-1">Designer:</td><td class="column-2">Glenn Henderson</td></tr><tr class="row-16"> <td class="column-1"></td><td class="column-2"></td></tr><tr class="row-17"> <td class="column-1">Make:</td><td class="column-2">Yanmar</td></tr><tr class="row-18"> <td class="column-1">Type:</td><td class="column-2">Diesel</td></tr><tr class="row-19"> <td class="column-1">HP:</td><td class="column-2">29</td></tr><tr class="row-20"> <td class="column-1">Fuel:</td><td class="column-2">35 gals / 132 L</td></tr><tr class="row-21"> <td class="column-1"></td><td class="column-2"></td></tr><tr class="row-22"> <td class="column-1">Water:</td><td class="column-2">75 gals / 284 L</td></tr><tr class="row-23"> <td class="column-1">Headroom:</td><td class="column-2">6.50 ft / 1.98 m</td></tr><tr class="row-24"> <td class="column-1"></td><td class="column-2"></td></tr><tr class="row-25"> <td class="column-1">S.A. / Displ.:</td><td class="column-2">22.88</td></tr><tr class="row-26"> <td class="column-1">Bal. / Displ.:</td><td class="column-2">33.41</td></tr><tr class="row-27"> <td class="column-1">Disp: / Len:</td><td class="column-2">196.49</td></tr><tr class="row-28"> <td class="column-1">Comfort Ratio:</td><td class="column-2">26.28</td></tr><tr class="row-29"> <td class="column-1">Capsize Screening Formula:</td><td class="column-2">1.96</td></tr><tr class="row-30"> <td class="column-1">S#:</td><td class="column-2">2.65</td></tr><tr class="row-31"> <td class="column-1">Hull Speed:</td><td class="column-2">7.89 kn</td></tr><tr class="row-32"> <td class="column-1">Pounds/Inch Immersion:</td><td class="column-2">1,600.53 pounds/inch</td></tr><tr class="row-33"> <td class="column-1"></td><td class="column-2"></td></tr><tr class="row-34"> <td class="column-1">I:</td><td class="column-2">46.67 ft / 14.23 m</td></tr><tr class="row-35"> <td class="column-1">J:</td><td class="column-2">12.08 ft / 3.68 m</td></tr><tr class="row-36"> <td class="column-1">P:</td><td class="column-2">47.42 ft / 14.45 m</td></tr><tr class="row-37"> <td class="column-1">E:</td><td class="column-2">17.75 ft / 5.41 m</td></tr><tr class="row-38"> <td class="column-1">S.A. Fore:</td><td class="column-2">281.89 ft² / 26.19 m²</td></tr><tr class="row-39"> <td class="column-1">S.A. Main:</td><td class="column-2">420.85 ft² / 39.10 m²</td></tr><tr class="row-40"> <td class="column-1">S.A. Total (100% Fore + Main Triangles):</td><td class="column-2">702.74 ft² / 65.29 m²</td></tr><tr class="row-41"> <td class="column-1">S.A./Displ. (calc.):</td><td class="column-2">16.23</td></tr><tr class="row-42"> <td class="column-1">Est. Forestay Length:</td><td class="column-2">48.21 ft / 14.69 m</td></tr><tr class="row-43"> <td class="column-1">Mast Height from DWL:</td><td class="column-2">59.08 ft / 18.01 m</td></tr></tbody></table><!-- #tablepress-591 from cache --></div></div></div><div></div><h2><strong>Deck Layout</strong></h2><h3>Cockpit</h3><p>Two innovations are immediately obvious when boarding from astern. The swim platform measures 18 in. by 30 in., and has two steps, one of which folds up when boarding passengers. Henderson has designed a helm seat that rotates aft and downward, which fills the gap between the upper port and starboard steps, creating a stern entrance; it’s a clever idea. Cockpit seats, and the two pod seats are covered with Flexiteek<img src="https://s.w.org/images/core/emoji/16.0.1/72x72/2122.png" alt="™" class="wp-smiley" style="height: 1em; max-height: 1em;" />, a synthetic product that’s durable and stain-resistant. See “<a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/synthetic-teak-durability-test">Synthetic Teak Durability Test</a>.”</p><p>The major shortcoming of the cockpit is the lack of storage space. A small locker to port contains the holding tank, a second one holds two propane bottles. The starboard seat covers an emergency hatch; also to starboard are a shallow locker for storing dock lines, and a second one that accesses manifolds and a heater.</p><figure id="attachment_900305" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-900305" style="width: 1028px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-900305 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Cockpit.png" alt="The Hunter 38's spacious cockpit seats eight comfortably with 6-ft. long seats, pod seating on the stern rails, and a folding destroyer-style wheel. The bimini frame over the cockpit supports the traveler and mainsail controls. Courtesy of YachtWorld.com" width="1028" height="685" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Cockpit.png 1028w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Cockpit-300x200.png 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Cockpit-1024x682.png 1024w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Cockpit-768x512.png 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Cockpit-696x464.png 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Cockpit-400x267.png 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1028px) 100vw, 1028px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-900305" class="wp-caption-text">The Hunter 38’s spacious cockpit seats eight comfortably with 6-ft. long seats, pod seating on the stern rails, and a folding destroyer-style wheel. The bimini frame over the cockpit supports the traveler and mainsail controls. Courtesy of YachtWorld.com</figcaption></figure><p>These spaces are small, as Henderson explained, because: “You’ve got to compromise somewhere,” to execute the balance of his design. Coupled with her wide body, the ‘Owner’s Version’ offers the most commodious and well laid-out aft stateroom we’ve seen on a boat this size. As an alternative, a tri-cabin version is available; that model is equipped with two aft cabins that provide space for passengers, or a large storage area.</p><h3>Wheel</h3><p>The second innovation: a 38-in. Edson destroyer-style wheel common on production boats this size. But in this case, Edson designed a folding wheel where port and starboard sections can be unpinned and folded inward to ease movement about the cockpit. During our test sail, the wheel remained locked in a circular form, so it appeared functional and safe. Leaves on the binnacle-mounted table can be elevated to create two plastic 18 in. x 18 in. tables. The base of the table also provides a foot brace, a requirement on a cockpit this wide.</p><p>The third innovation is not original, but is rarely seen on production boats: deep fiberglass bins on either side of the companionway used to store halyard tails and other sail controls. This is a superior approach to using bags or cubbies that have historically been carved out of unused space in the coamings.</p><h3>Deck Hardware</h3><p>On the 38, Hunter uses a stainless steel arch to support the traveler, which puts mainsail controls near the helm. A Harken mainsail track and traveler system sits atop the arch, and sheets are led port and starboard to cam cleats that allow the skipper to trim from the wheel, completing Henderson’s attempt to remove clutter from the cockpit. Two Sony marinized speakers and nightlights are also housed in the arch; the speaker controls are bedded in the companionway cover. Primary winches also are close to the helm, promoting singlehanded sailing.</p><p>Despite these niceties, except when covered by the bimini, the arch detracts from the boat’s appearance, and adds weight aloft and windage. Though we’d be hesitant to sail out of San Francisco Bay with the bimini in place, we agree it would be a plus in less demanding regions most of the time.</p><p>The boat’s deck hardware is top-drawer and large enough for assigned tasks. The primary winches are Lewmar 40 self-tailers led through Lewmar ballbearing blocks. On the cabintop are Lewmar 40s married to Spinlock XTS rope clutches.</p><h3>Safety Features</h3><p>Lifelines are 23 in. above the deck, (meeting ISO standards), but would provide more security if they were 28 to 30 in. tall. The 1-1/2 in. fiberglass toerail running from bow to stern is what we expect on a boat designed for offshore work. The toerail is rounded, which will be appreciated by rail riders in the unlikely event that this boat does any racing. The sidedecks are 12-in. wide at the shrouds. The lower shrouds terminate near the base of the cabin, the uppers at the gunwale, so fore and aft movement is unimpeded. And a diamond nonskid surface offers good footing on a wet deck. The cabintop measures 86 in. between the handrails, so there is plenty of room for stowing a dinghy or other items.</p><h3>Rig</h3><p>Small headsails were de rigeur for Henderson, and this boat is fitted with just two 48-in. long sections of track located at the base of the cabintop, providing tight sheeting angles between the shrouds. The standard furler is a Furlex 200S elevated 16″ in. above deck level so that it’s out of the way when hoisting an anchor, but this arrangement diminishes sail area and compromises upwind performance.</p><h3>Windlass</h3><p>A Simpson-Lawrence anchor windlass is located below deck in the anchor locker, a good location from a safety standpoint; the locker is large enough to house enough chain and rode for anchoring in deep harbors. Cleats located on the bow, amidships, and on the stern are 10-in. long, so they’ll accept dock lines beefy enough for a boat this size.</p><h3>Ventilation</h3><p>A Lewmar hatch on the bow measures 22 in. x 22 in., a second located amidships is 24 in. x 24 in., letting the sun and wind pour in, or odors escape the cabin. They are supplemented by 10 in. x 12 in. opening ports amidships and over the galley.</p><p>Henderson has designed a vessel that places an emphasis on crew comfort and smooth operation by locating the sail controls at the helmsman’s fingertips. The only drawback, however, occurs if the skipper becomes overwhelmed by simultaneously steering, trimming, reading a chart, and attending to the other duties that befall the master of any vessel. In this case, the stern section could become overpopulated. Still, the absence of lines cluttering the cockpit sole gets our approval.</p><h2><strong>Accommodations</strong></h2><p>As with all Hunter sailboats, the 38 provides large living spaces. The layout of this model presents an L-shaped galley to starboard at the foot of the companionway, nav station to port, and sitting/dining area amidships. At anchor, the crew sleeps in the forward cabin; the skipper in the aforementioned aft stateroom.</p><p>Headroom in the main saloon is a generous 6 ft. 6 in. The hull and cabinetry are constructed of smoothly finished teak, though the sole in the saloon is Everwear<img src="https://s.w.org/images/core/emoji/16.0.1/72x72/2122.png" alt="™" class="wp-smiley" style="height: 1em; max-height: 1em;" />, a low-maintenance laminate. The panels in the new headliner can be removed with a tool Hunter provides to get at wiring runs and deck hardware, and the cabintop is fitted with solid wood handrails running the length of the saloon, which are among the beefiest we’ve seen.</p><figure id="attachment_900304" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-900304" style="width: 1028px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-900304 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-berth.png" alt="The owner's version features a commodious aft stateroom with a 78-in. long, 60-in. wide berth. Courtesy of YachtWorld.com" width="1028" height="685" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-berth.png 1028w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-berth-300x200.png 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-berth-1024x682.png 1024w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-berth-768x512.png 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-berth-696x464.png 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-berth-400x267.png 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1028px) 100vw, 1028px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-900304" class="wp-caption-text">The owner’s version features a commodious aft stateroom with a 78-in. long, 60-in. wide berth. Courtesy of YachtWorld.com</figcaption></figure><p>The saloon will seat six guests with a dining table measuring 36 in. x 42 in. and settees 70-in. long with 15-in. high backrests. The width between the settee backs is 9 ft.</p><h3>Galley</h3><p>The galley comes standard with a two-burner stove/oven combination located between an optional refrigerator aft and slide-out storage rack; outboard are cabinets large enough for the storage of eating utensils, and a niche for a microwave. A stainless rail at the front of the provides an attachment point for the chef when underway.</p><figure id="attachment_900306" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-900306" style="width: 1028px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-900306 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Galley.png" alt="The L-shaped galley features Hunter's signature Corian countertops measuring 60-in. x 20-in., dual stainless sinks, and a two-burner stove/oven combination with optional refrigerator aft and slide-out storage forward. Courtesy of YachtWorld.com" width="1028" height="685" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Galley.png 1028w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Galley-300x200.png 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Galley-1024x682.png 1024w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Galley-768x512.png 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Galley-696x464.png 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Galley-400x267.png 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1028px) 100vw, 1028px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-900306" class="wp-caption-text">The L-shaped galley features Hunter’s signature Corian countertops measuring 60-in. x 20-in., dual stainless sinks, and a two-burner stove/oven combination with optional refrigerator aft and slide-out storage forward. Courtesy of YachtWorld.com</figcaption></figure><p>Two stainless steel sinks are surrounded by a Corian surface, a Hunter signature that flies in the face of Henderson’s attempt to reduce weight. The countertop measures 60-in. x 20-in. when the sinks are covered, adequate for preparing meals for a crew of six.</p><h3>Nav Station</h3><p>The 38 also has a good chart table measuring 20-in. x 18 in. Henderson placed a bulkhead on the forward edge of the table where instruments will be installed, with a useful stainless handhold attached to the cabinetry. The electrical panel is close at hand. The only drawback of the arrangement is that the chart table extends so far aft that the navigator’s seat cannot be fully elevated.</p><h3>Skipper’s Stateroom</h3><p>The skipper’s stateroom is comparable to ones we’ve seen on large powerboats. The key ingredients are a 78-in. long, 60-in. wide platform on which a 4-in. thick mattress lives, with storage below. Interestingly, an open space between hull and headboard is designed for miscellaneous storage, as is a cabinet at the foot of the berth measuring 22-in. wide and 8-in. deep. There’s additional storage in a hanging locker. Cushioned seats measuring 23 in. x 20 in. located port and starboard create convenient sitting areas. But make no mistake, this sleeping area would not serve as a proper seaberth.</p><figure id="attachment_900312" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-900312" style="width: 1028px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-900312 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-interior4.png" alt="The main saloon features U-shaped settees around a teak dining table with generous headroom and natural light from deck hatches and hull ports. The low-maintenance Everwear laminate sole replaced traditional teak and holly. Courtesy of YachtWorld.com" width="1028" height="685" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-interior4.png 1028w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-interior4-300x200.png 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-interior4-1024x682.png 1024w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-interior4-768x512.png 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-interior4-696x464.png 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-interior4-400x267.png 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1028px) 100vw, 1028px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-900312" class="wp-caption-text">The main saloon features U-shaped settees around a teak dining table with generous headroom and natural light from deck hatches and hull ports. The low-maintenance Everwear laminate sole replaced traditional teak and holly. Courtesy of YachtWorld.com</figcaption></figure><h3>Engine Access</h3><p>Henderson has devised a dual-purpose engine cover. The box doubles as a fiddled vanity that, when removed, exposes both sides and the back of the engine, better than seen on most boats. Since the space between the berth and vanity is 23 in., the cover won’t need to be stored on the berth when servicing the engine—a very sanitary arrangement.</p><h3>Forward Stateroom</h3><p>The forward stateroom is just large enough for two adults. The berth is 86-in. long on the centerline, and 80-in. wide at the head; storage is below the berth and in a pair of cedar-lined hanging lockers.</p><h3>Head</h3><p>The single head is a two-compartment affair with doors to both the main cabin and the aft stateroom. Standing headroom is 6 ft. 2 in. in each space. The vanity-toilet area is large enough for most adults, and the shower area, which measures 24 in. x 45 in., is enclosed by a door, so the spaces may be occupied by two people simultaneously.</p><figure id="attachment_900307" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-900307" style="width: 1028px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-900307 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Head.png" alt="The single head is divided into two compartments accessible from both the main cabin and aft stateroom. The separate shower stall measures 24 in. x 45 in. and is enclosed by a door, allowing simultaneous use of the vanity-toilet area and shower—a practical arrangement with 6-ft. 2-in. standing headroom throughout. Courtesy of Yachtworld.com" width="1028" height="685" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Head.png 1028w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Head-300x200.png 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Head-1024x682.png 1024w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Head-768x512.png 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Head-696x464.png 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-Head-400x267.png 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1028px) 100vw, 1028px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-900307" class="wp-caption-text">The single head is divided into two compartments accessible from both the main cabin and aft stateroom. The separate shower stall measures 24 in. x 45 in. and is enclosed by a door, allowing simultaneous use of the vanity-toilet area and shower—a practical arrangement with 6-ft. 2-in. standing headroom throughout. Courtesy of Yachtworld.com</figcaption></figure><p>We expect to find large living spaces on Hunter’s sailboats and the 38 doesn’t disappoint. However, it exhibits better fit and finish of joinery than boats built five years ago, a byproduct of computerized cutting tools, more attention to detail, and quality control. The layout is sensible, with living spaces proportionate to the amount of time that will be spent occupying them. And, we like a single head on a boat this size. It makes sense and frees space for other uses.</p><h2><strong>Performance</strong></h2><p>We tested the boat in 5 to 10 knots of breeze and flat water on the Chesapeake Bay—conditions common to many areas around the U.S. The boat was fitted with an in-mast furling mainsail, and the company’s own literature indicates that this reduces sail area by 148 sq. ft. We feel that’s a tremendous price to pay for convenience, especially in light-air venues, and considering that sails are typically set once a day. On a 38-ft. boat displacing 17,000 lb., we’d opt for an electric halyard winch and a flaking system before sacrificing that much Dacron.</p><p>We sailed with a full main with three vertical battens, which produced good sail shape, and a 105% headsail. Boat speed on our GPS registered 5 to 5.5 knots sailing in five knots of breeze, and increased to 7.5 knots in 10 knots of breeze when we eased sheets. Henderson said “that meets the design target and is about as fast as she will go.”</p><p>The boat was light at the helm, responsive when sails were properly trimmed, and tacked through 85 to 90 degrees, better than we’ve seen on earlier Hunters. She heeled approximately 10 degrees in those conditions and provided a comfortable ride.</p><p>She motors easily at 6 knots when powered by the Yanmar 27-hp engine. An optional 40-hp engine added $2,936 to the original price, but would be overkill except in areas where there are heavy tides or currents.</p><h2><strong>Conclusion</strong></h2><p>We’re convinced that Henderson made progress in improving the performance of Hunter’s products. His major accomplishments are faster hull shapes and minor progress in the removal of unnecessary weight; i.e. the headliner in the saloon. Nonetheless, odds are that Corian countertops will always be installed, and the boats will continue to have big cockpits, a reflection of the market to which the company appeals. And, we’ll never get used to seeing those radar arches.</p><p>With the original base price of $144,990, the Hunter 38 was at the low end of its respective market. Used boats are currently priced between $85,000 and $119,000. The quality of this boat is an improvement over previous models, and we think it bears close inspection for potential buyers.</p><div><div class="su-box su-box-style-default" id="" style="border-color:#00586d;border-radius:3px;"><div class="su-box-title" style="background-color:#158ba0;color:#ffffff;border-top-left-radius:1px;border-top-right-radius:1px">MARKET SCAN </div><div class="su-box-content su-u-clearfix su-u-trim" style="border-bottom-left-radius:1px;border-bottom-right-radius:1px"></div><div><figure id="attachment_900309" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-900309" style="width: 1028px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-900309 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-interior.png" alt="Twin 24-in. x 24-in. Lewmar hatches and elongated 16-in. x 28-in. tinted plexiglass ports provide ventilation and natural light—critical in a 38-footer designed for extended cruising. Teak joinery shows improved fit and finish compared to earlier models thanks to computerized cutting tools. Courtesy of YachtWorld.com" width="1028" height="685" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-interior.png 1028w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-interior-300x200.png 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-interior-1024x682.png 1024w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-interior-768x512.png 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-interior-696x464.png 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Hunter-38-interior-400x267.png 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1028px) 100vw, 1028px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-900309" class="wp-caption-text">Twin 24-in. x 24-in. Lewmar hatches and elongated 16-in. x 28-in. tinted plexiglass ports provide ventilation and natural light—critical in a 38-footer designed for extended cruising. Teak joinery shows improved fit and finish compared to earlier models thanks to computerized cutting tools. Courtesy of YachtWorld.com</figcaption></figure></div><div><table id="tablepress-592" class="tablepress tablepress-id-592"><thead><tr class="row-1"> <th class="column-1">Market Scan</th><th class="column-2">Contact</th></tr></thead><tbody class="row-striping row-hover"><tr class="row-2"> <td class="column-1"></td><td class="column-2"></td></tr><tr class="row-3"> <td class="column-1">2007 Hunter 38</td><td class="column-2">Denison Yachting</td></tr><tr class="row-4"> <td class="column-1">$119,000 USD</td><td class="column-2">562-469-5108</td></tr><tr class="row-5"> <td class="column-1">Long Beach, California</td><td class="column-2"><a href="https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/2007-hunter-38-9911885/" rel="noopener" target="_blank">Yacht World</a></td></tr><tr class="row-6"> <td class="column-1"></td><td class="column-2"></td></tr><tr class="row-7"> <td class="column-1">2005 Hunter 38</td><td class="column-2">Sandy Hook Yacht Sales Inc</td></tr><tr class="row-8"> <td class="column-1">$110,000</td><td class="column-2">732-530-5500</td></tr><tr class="row-9"> <td class="column-1">Clearwater, Florida</td><td class="column-2"><a href="https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/2005-hunter-38-9777963/" rel="noopener" target="_blank">Yacht World</a></td></tr><tr class="row-10"> <td class="column-1"></td><td class="column-2"></td></tr><tr class="row-11"> <td class="column-1">2006 Hunter 38</td><td class="column-2">Seattle Yachts</td></tr><tr class="row-12"> <td class="column-1">$97,900</td><td class="column-2">410-397-7323</td></tr><tr class="row-13"> <td class="column-1">Deale, Maryland</td><td class="column-2"><a href="https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/2006-hunter-38-9945483/" rel="noopener" target="_blank">Yacht World</a></td></tr></tbody></table><!-- #tablepress-592 from cache --></div></div></div><p><em>This article was first published on 6 April 2005 and has been updated. </em></p><a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/landing/subscribe-now?t=bottomsub"><img class="size-full wp-image-894424 aligncenter" src="https://qa.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/ps_website_ad_728x150.png" alt="" width="728" height="150" /></a><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/used_sailboats/hunter-38">Hunter 38 Used Boat Review</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/used_sailboats/hunter-38/feed</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> </item> <item> <title>Inside the Xquisite 60 Solar Sail | Full Tour of the X60 Solar-Powered Catamaran</title> <link>https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/inside-the-xquisite-60-solar-sail-full-tour-of-the-x60-solar-powered-catamaran</link> <comments>https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/inside-the-xquisite-60-solar-sail-full-tour-of-the-x60-solar-powered-catamaran#respond</comments> <dc:creator><![CDATA[Tim Labute]]></dc:creator> <pubDate>Mon, 27 Oct 2025 12:00:03 +0000</pubDate> <category><![CDATA[Video]]></category> <guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.practical-sailor.com/?p=901376</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p>Step aboard the Xquisite 60 Solar Sail in this full walkthrough and sailing tour of the revolutionary X60 solar-powered catamaran. See every detail — from the solar array and hybrid propulsion systems, to the luxurious interiors, cockpit, toy garage, and helm — as we explore how this boat blends luxury, green energy, and high-performance sailing. […]</p><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/inside-the-xquisite-60-solar-sail-full-tour-of-the-x60-solar-powered-catamaran">Inside the Xquisite 60 Solar Sail | Full Tour of the X60 Solar-Powered Catamaran</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Step aboard the Xquisite 60 Solar Sail in this full walkthrough and sailing tour of the revolutionary X60 solar-powered catamaran. See every detail — from the solar array and hybrid propulsion systems, to the luxurious interiors, cockpit, toy garage, and helm — as we explore how this boat blends luxury, green energy, and high-performance sailing. The Xquisite 60 Solar Sail is designed for off-grid cruising, with up to 7 kW of solar power and 60 kWh of lithium-ion batteries — enough to run most onboard systems without a generator. It’s engineered for easy single-handed sailing with all-electric sail controls, carbon fiber boom furling, and advanced digital systems. Inside, you’ll find true luxury living — a walk-in closet, king-size bed, wine cellar, and full-size appliances make this one of the most comfortable sailing catamarans in the world.</p><a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/landing/subscribe-now?t=bottomsub"><img class="size-full wp-image-894424 aligncenter" src="https://qa.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/ps_website_ad_728x150.png" alt="" width="728" height="150" /></a><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/inside-the-xquisite-60-solar-sail-full-tour-of-the-x60-solar-powered-catamaran">Inside the Xquisite 60 Solar Sail | Full Tour of the X60 Solar-Powered Catamaran</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/inside-the-xquisite-60-solar-sail-full-tour-of-the-x60-solar-powered-catamaran/feed</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>0</slash:comments> </item> <item> <title>No-Sew DIY Tiller Pilot Cover</title> <link>https://www.practical-sailor.com/subscriber-only/no-sew-diy-tiller-pilot-cover</link> <comments>https://www.practical-sailor.com/subscriber-only/no-sew-diy-tiller-pilot-cover#comments</comments> <dc:creator><![CDATA[Drew Frye]]></dc:creator> <pubDate>Mon, 27 Oct 2025 08:00:45 +0000</pubDate> <category><![CDATA[Inside Practical Sailor]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Marine Electronics]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Subscriber Only]]></category> <guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.practical-sailor.com/?p=901293</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p>Although they are rated waterproof, the most common cause of death for tiller pilots is water intrusion. I've had one die from this. Like most electronics, they pull a vacuum inside when a summer thunderstorm hits them and lowers the temperature of the enclosure from as high as 130 F to just 70 F in […]</p><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/subscriber-only/no-sew-diy-tiller-pilot-cover">No-Sew DIY Tiller Pilot Cover</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Although they are rated waterproof, the most common cause of death for tiller pilots is water intrusion. I've had one die from this. Like most electronics, they pull a vacuum inside when a summer thunderstorm hits them and lowers the temperature of the enclosure from as high as 130 F to just 70 F in a few minutes. They leak either through the case seal or the piston seal. I'm sure the O-ring could be serviced, but that involves cracking the case seal, which will then probably leak. I had one die several years after I opened it to repair a faulty gear—it spun on the shaft—I didn’t get the sealing O-ring into perfect position and it was pinched, just a bit, in one spot.</p><div class="wp-block-group"><div class="wp-block-group__inner-container"><div id="story-paywall-subscribe" class="td-pb-row"><div class="td-pb-span12 paywall-red-text">To continue reading this article or issue you must be a paid member. <a id="ofielogin" class="td-login-modal-js" href="#login-form"><u>Sign in</u></a></div><div class="td-pb-span4"><figure><a href="/landing/subscribe-now/?t=storyofie"><img class="alignnone" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/digitaldevicesps-1.png" alt="" width="220" /></a></figure><a class="ofiebutton" href="/landing/subscribe-now/?t=storyofie">JOIN NOW</a> </div><div class="td-pb-span8"><h4>Join Practical Sailor</h4><div class="paywall-text"><strong>Get full access to Practical-Sailor.com – more than 4,000 articles – for just $34.</strong></div><div class="paywall-text"><a href="/landing/subscribe-now/?t=storyofie">Join today</a> and save 42% off our full price.</div><h5><strong>Already a member?</strong></h5><a class="td-login-modal-js" href="#login-form"><strong>Click Here to Sign In</strong></a> | <a href="/my-account/lost-password/"><strong>Forgot your password?</strong></a> | <a href="/online-account-activation/"><strong>Activate Web Access</strong></a> </div></div></div></div><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/subscriber-only/no-sew-diy-tiller-pilot-cover">No-Sew DIY Tiller Pilot Cover</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>https://www.practical-sailor.com/subscriber-only/no-sew-diy-tiller-pilot-cover/feed</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> </item> <item> <title>Maui to Vic: A First Ocean Crossing Experience</title> <link>https://www.practical-sailor.com/voyaging/maui-to-vic-a-first-ocean-crossing-experience</link> <comments>https://www.practical-sailor.com/voyaging/maui-to-vic-a-first-ocean-crossing-experience#comments</comments> <dc:creator><![CDATA[Bert Vermeer]]></dc:creator> <pubDate>Mon, 27 Oct 2025 08:00:16 +0000</pubDate> <category><![CDATA[Subscriber Only]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Voyaging]]></category> <guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.practical-sailor.com/?p=901299</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p>A lifetime of sailing the protected waters of Vancouver Island on British Columbia’s west coast has given me a wealth of sailing experience. But I had no ocean crossing miles. I had dreamed of that possibility but realized that an old 30-foot coastal cruiser was not the practical boat for such an adventure. Sure, I […]</p><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/voyaging/maui-to-vic-a-first-ocean-crossing-experience">Maui to Vic: A First Ocean Crossing Experience</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A lifetime of sailing the protected waters of Vancouver Island on British Columbia’s west coast has given me a wealth of sailing experience. But I had no ocean crossing miles. I had dreamed of that possibility but realized that an old 30-foot coastal cruiser was not the practical boat for such an adventure. Sure, I had sailed the west side of Vancouver Island’s open ocean, and conditions there could be as treacherous as any other stretch of water in the world, but a safe anchorage was always within reach. What would it be like to really head out into the wild blue yonder? There are plenty of books to read, and videos to watch, but it isn’t the same as actually being there.</p><div class="wp-block-group"><div class="wp-block-group__inner-container"><div id="story-paywall-subscribe" class="td-pb-row"><div class="td-pb-span12 paywall-red-text">To continue reading this article or issue you must be a paid member. <a id="ofielogin" class="td-login-modal-js" href="#login-form"><u>Sign in</u></a></div><div class="td-pb-span4"><figure><a href="/landing/subscribe-now/?t=storyofie"><img class="alignnone" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/digitaldevicesps-1.png" alt="" width="220" /></a></figure><a class="ofiebutton" href="/landing/subscribe-now/?t=storyofie">JOIN NOW</a> </div><div class="td-pb-span8"><h4>Join Practical Sailor</h4><div class="paywall-text"><strong>Get full access to Practical-Sailor.com – more than 4,000 articles – for just $34.</strong></div><div class="paywall-text"><a href="/landing/subscribe-now/?t=storyofie">Join today</a> and save 42% off our full price.</div><h5><strong>Already a member?</strong></h5><a class="td-login-modal-js" href="#login-form"><strong>Click Here to Sign In</strong></a> | <a href="/my-account/lost-password/"><strong>Forgot your password?</strong></a> | <a href="/online-account-activation/"><strong>Activate Web Access</strong></a> </div></div></div></div><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/voyaging/maui-to-vic-a-first-ocean-crossing-experience">Maui to Vic: A First Ocean Crossing Experience</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>https://www.practical-sailor.com/voyaging/maui-to-vic-a-first-ocean-crossing-experience/feed</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> </item> <item> <title>Revive Your Mast Like a Pro</title> <link>https://www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/revive-your-mast-like-a-pro-2</link> <comments>https://www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/revive-your-mast-like-a-pro-2#respond</comments> <dc:creator><![CDATA[Ralph Naranjo]]></dc:creator> <pubDate>Mon, 27 Oct 2025 08:00:09 +0000</pubDate> <category><![CDATA[Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear]]></category> <category><![CDATA[aluminum]]></category> <category><![CDATA[galvanic corrosion]]></category> <category><![CDATA[mast]]></category> <guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.practical-sailor.com/?p=801476</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p>Unobtainium is the metal at the top of every Naval Architect’s wish list. It’s a perfect marine material; light, strong, stiff yet flexible—it’s as inert as gold, but costs only pennies per pound. Sadly, like the search for El Dorado, this metal quest remains more alchemy than chemistry. For now, aluminum, especially the alloy 6061-T6, […]</p><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/revive-your-mast-like-a-pro-2">Revive Your Mast Like a Pro</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>Unobtainium</em> is the metal at the top of every Naval Architect’s wish list. It’s a perfect marine material; light, strong, stiff yet flexible—it’s as inert as gold, but costs only pennies per pound. Sadly, like the search for El Dorado, this metal quest remains more alchemy than chemistry. For now, aluminum, especially the alloy 6061-T6, is the solid performer. It singlehandedly upstaged spruce as the mast material of choice, and for decades it’s done its job admirably. The alloy isn’t perfect, but by understanding its vulnerabilities, and mitigating those negative characteristics, the functional lifespan of an aluminum spar can be measured in decades not years.</p><p>Yes, carbon fiber spars are in many ways the next step forward. But for those intent on being cost effective and not on the hunt for a few tenths-of-a-knot increase in boat speed, aluminum remains the cost effective alternative.</p><h2>Mast Construction</h2><p>Most metal masts are made from long, cylindrical billets of aluminum alloy. Each tube section is created using a powerful ram to force a heated billet (400-500 C) through a set of dies that squeeze and shape the billet into the cross section and wall thickness of a specific spar. Lots of lubricating release agent and 15,000 tons of ram pressure are used to reshape the malleable aluminum.</p><p>Billet residue is captured and recycled, while the tube shape undergoes quenching as it moves off on the runout table. The next stop in the line involves a process that draws (pulls) and straightens the tube section.</p><figure id="attachment_456661" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-456661" style="width: 696px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-456661 size-large" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/IMG_0175-1024x683.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="696" height="464" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/IMG_0175-1024x683.jpg.optimal.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/IMG_0175-300x200.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/IMG_0175-768x512.jpg.optimal.jpg 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/IMG_0175-1536x1024.jpg.optimal.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/IMG_0175-2048x1365.jpg.optimal.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/IMG_0175-696x464.jpg.optimal.jpg 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/IMG_0175-1068x712.jpg.optimal.jpg 1068w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/IMG_0175-400x267.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 696px) 100vw, 696px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-456661" class="wp-caption-text">Completed masts await shipment from Southern Spars. A major supplier for multihulls, the factory now focuses mostly on carbon fiber spars.</figcaption></figure><p>Once fully cooled, it goes through a T6 heat tempering process that elevates tensile strength from 35,000 to 45,000 psi. Lastly, spars can be anodized, painted, powder coated or left uncoated. Some masts are extruded in half sections and machine-welded together lengthwise.</p><h3>6061-T6 Aluminum Alloy</h3><p>There are other aluminum alloys that are better suited to welded hull construction or used for metal casting purposes, but 6061-T6, containing small amounts of silicon, magnesium and other trace elements, delivers the strength, stiffness and lightness that’s vital when it comes to making spars.</p><p>The “T6” alloy is weldable, but doing so anneals and weakens the area that’s welded. This is one of the reasons why, when splicing two sections together, a doubler is added internally that overlaps the junction. Excess heat buildup during the plug welding process that joins the sections is kept to a minimum. Some manufacturers mechanically fasten the junction using machine screws or heavy duty pop rivets.</p><h2>Oxidation Issues</h2><p>Unfortunately, aluminum isn’t quite the sequel to tomorrow’s <em>Unobtainium</em>. Aluminum, like steel alloys, show a proclivity to oxidize. But in the case of most steel alloys, oxidation is an ongoing process that only reaches completion when the object in question has become an unrecognizable pile of rust.</p><figure id="attachment_456662" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-456662" style="width: 552px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-456662 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/rigger.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="552" height="579" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/rigger.jpg.optimal.jpg 552w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/rigger-286x300.jpg.optimal.jpg 286w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/rigger-300x315.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/rigger-400x420.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/rigger-24x24.jpg.optimal.jpg 24w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 552px) 100vw, 552px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-456662" class="wp-caption-text">1. A rigger at Annapolis Spars sets pop rivet heads to secure internal reinforcement<br />during a spreader junction repair. When welding T6, the surrounding metal must be kept cool to prevent annealing that will weaken the metal. 2. When mounting new or repaired hardware, future corrosion can be prevented by isolating the fasteners with a good dielectric sealant or bedding<br />compound (see “<a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/anti-seize-coatings-for-spars">Anti-seize Coatings for Spars</a>”) 3. High density PTFE bushings isolate<br />spreaders from their stainless fasteners at Southern Spars.</figcaption></figure><p>Bare aluminum, on the other hand, reveals a very different oxidation curve. A shiny new piece of aluminum develops a speckled, gray, oxidized coating that actually becomes a protective layer, preventing further oxidation. Ironically, this means that the ugliest looking mast in the marina, that non-anodized, unpainted one with the aesthetic appeal of dirty socks, is about as well protected from further deterioration as the spar on the gold-plater with the automotive finish. This is the reason why most commercial mariners restrain from painting the deck and topsides of their aluminum workboats.</p><p>The root cause of this aesthetic injustice is the way moisture, especially salt water, finds every microscopic void or coating imperfection and causes aluminum to oxidize around voids and spread beneath the paint layer. By the time blisters appear and paint begins to flake, the sub surface is covered with aluminum oxide and starting to pit.</p><p>There are several ways to tame the effect of chloride-rich seawater. But when it comes to a failing painted surface, thorough prep work is essential. Modern epoxy primers help hold corrosion at bay, and single and two-part urethane coatings seal the surface. Hard-anodized or powder coated spars are even better protected, but cost more and are more complicated to refinish when they finally fail.</p><h2>Galvanic Corrosion</h2><h3>How the Galvanic Scale Works</h3><p>Galvanic corrosion is aluminum’s second major nemesis, and it stems from an electrical interaction rather than oxidation. Metals are rated on a galvanic corrosion scale that places less reactive (more noble) metals at one end and more reactive (less noble) ones at the other end.</p><p>Platinum, beryllium and magnesium lean against one of the bookends of this scale. Magnesium, a plentiful element, is strong and light, 35 percent lighter than aluminum, but way too reactive in the marine environment. Platinum and gold sit at the opposite bookend of reactivity and are so inert that all other metals become anodic in their presence. The metals that lie in between these are relatively ranked according to their behavior in an electrolyte such as seawater.</p><h3 class="mb-2 mt-4 font-display font-semimedium text-base first:mt-0">Isolating Dissimilar Metals</h3><p>When it comes to marine applications, there aren’t many platinum through-hulls, but silicon bronze is a pretty good compromise between cost and corrosion resistance. It’s rank on the galvanic scale is toward the more noble end and it behaves as a cathode to less noble metals like zinc, brass and aluminum, which become anodes in the proximity of more noble metals.</p><p>Unfortunately, when dissimilar metals are in direct contact, all it takes is a little rain or morning dew to set up a temporary galvanic cell. Salt spray finds all the nooks and crannies on a sailboat and as the water evaporates it leaves behind crystalized sodium chloride (NaCl). Each raindrop, wave splash or drop of dew rehydrates the electrolyte. And as every galvanic cell demonstrates, wherever two or more dissimilar metals are immersed, a current flows and the less noble material (anode) corrodes causing electrons to flow toward the more noble metal (cathode). The net result is pitting and eventual destruction of the anode.</p><p>This prolonged, double-barrel assault on an aluminum spar is most noticeable in areas where dissimilar metals make contact.</p><p>There’s an old superstition about putting a couple of silver or copper coins under the mast step, just before stepping the spar. It may have been a good luck charm in the days of iron men and wooden masts. But today, placing a copper penny or silver eagle in a wet mast step completes a highly reactive galvanic cell and creates a corrosion experiment of the first order. The right answer is to do everything possible to separate dissimilar metals. Putting a Delrin strip or dielectric PTFE tape between the hardware and the mast wall really helps.</p><p>When installing larger stainless steel hardware on a mast, it’s easy to cut out a gasket from a sheet of 30-mil-thick Teflon. Also be sure to use Tef-Gel or a similar dialectic grease or sealant on all screw threads.</p><h2>Mast Inspection</h2><p>Once the mast has been unstepped, positioned horizontally on horses and the headsail furling gear removed, it’s time to take a close look in all the nooks and crannies where things can go wrong. I prefer a bottom up approach and group the mast into four related subsets: base, column, spreaders and masthead. If the mast is going to be painted, postpone this DIY inspection until all the rigging and hardware has been removed. In either case, scrutinize the spar, hardware and rigging attachment points, especially where high loads are focused.</p><p>It helps to have a good magnifying glass, a pick, knife and small scraper on hand to expose and inspect oxidized areas. Place a piece of contrasting color masking tape on each point of concern as you progress toward the masthead. Once the inspection is complete, use a digital camera or smartphone to document the more serious issues. These snapshots provide a record of the location and extent of all corrosion, deep pitting and any cracks emanating from fasteners or hardware. Also record all dents or other impact damage and any sign of ongoing abrasion. Serious damage can be caused by misled wire running rigging and the cycle loading wear linked to variations in tension. Naturally, all standing and running rigging should be thoroughly inspected at this time.</p><h2>At the Base</h2><p>Keel-stepped masts aboard many cruisers and racers are hidden below the cabin sole and reside in a wet, corrosion prone, bilge ambiance. And it’s another reason why, when a mast is unstepped, the entire support structure, step and the heel fitting deserve a close look. Check for signs of corrosion and make sure the hardware that fastens the heel fitting to the grid or other transverse and fore-and-aft support is in good shape.</p><p>This structure supports compression loads and also must respond to changes in backstay tension and side loading, not to mention the shock loads of a beat to windward in heavy seas. This is also the time to do what I call spar-oscopy. Take a compact LED flashlight and tape it to the end of a long, thin PVC tube or bamboo fishing pole that will be used to look at the mast interior.</p><p>This jury-rigged light on a pole, allows you see signs of internal corrosion and gives you a chance to locate abrasion points where halyards have been misled or are rubbing on hardware. A narrow spot beam will illuminate much of the inner wall of the mast, and if the running rigging has been replaced with thin messengers and the spreader “dog bones” (cross connecting supports) have been removed, you will have a clear sight line up the spar. This is a good time to sort out any halyard overlaps.</p><h3 class="mb-2 mt-4 font-display font-semimedium text-base first:mt-0">Watch for Elephant Foot</h3><p>Riggers also look for an ailment called “elephant foot.” It’s a descriptive name for the partial crumpling of the spar near the base of the mast. It’s caused by over-compression and/or a wall section that is too thin. This wrinkling is usually just above the mast step, and it indicates a condition just shy of complete failure. It can be linked to prolonged ponding to windward with excessive backstay tension and overpressuring mast jacks.</p><p>In some cases a new section can be spliced into the spar. By if it’s an older mast and other significant signs of deterioration are present, it may be time to opt for a new spar. Don’t bet the farm on an “it hasn’t failed yet” assumption; hire a skilled rigger to advise on the tough calls.</p><div class="brief"><div class="brief_title">Stubborn Spar-to-Hardware Bonds Require Patience</div><div class="brief_content"><p>At first glance, the mechanical challenge linked to stripping hardware from a mast seems rather simple. All you need are a couple of screwdrivers and you’re ready to go. Unfortunately, the gods of galvanic corrosion have placed another obstacle in the sailor’s way.</p><p>The threads of those stainless steel screws attaching hardware to base plates or to the mast wall itself have become so corroded they are likely to be screwdriver-proof. Part of the blame goes to original hardware installers, who gave little attention to coating threads with an anti-seize compound and the effect it would have on future maintenance.</p><figure id="attachment_456676" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-456676" style="width: 210px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-456676" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/4.-tapping-mast-section-for-testing-210x300.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="210" height="300" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/4.-tapping-mast-section-for-testing-210x300.jpg.optimal.jpg 210w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/4.-tapping-mast-section-for-testing-717x1024.jpg.optimal.jpg 717w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/4.-tapping-mast-section-for-testing-768x1097.jpg.optimal.jpg 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/4.-tapping-mast-section-for-testing-1076x1536.jpg.optimal.jpg 1076w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/4.-tapping-mast-section-for-testing-1434x2048.jpg.optimal.jpg 1434w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/4.-tapping-mast-section-for-testing-696x994.jpg.optimal.jpg 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/4.-tapping-mast-section-for-testing-1068x1525.jpg.optimal.jpg 1068w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/4.-tapping-mast-section-for-testing-300x428.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/4.-tapping-mast-section-for-testing-400x571.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/4.-tapping-mast-section-for-testing-scaled.jpg.optimal.jpg 1793w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 210px) 100vw, 210px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-456676" class="wp-caption-text">Adding new fasteners? PS tested various methods (see “A Riveting Report,” September 2018).</figcaption></figure><p>So after some years or decades, when it’s time to see what lies underneath the hardware, my first step is to clean all oxidation, paint and grime away from the screw slots and make sure that the chosen screwdriver fills the entire slot. A snug fit is the goal. Then, if a good counter clockwise twist fails to elicit any rotation, it’s time to add a wrench to the screw driver and deploy a good deal more torque.</p><p>If this also fails to loosen the bugger, I go to plan B before I ruin the screw slot. Step one is to use a pick to scrape away oxidation around the screw head perimeter. The next step is to douse the area with a penetrant such as PB Blaster, CRC’s Ultra Screwloose, Knocker Loose Plus, Gasoila Free-All or a similar product (see Inside Practical Sailor blog post, “More Boat Tips: Unsticking Stuck Nuts and Bolts”).</p><p>Before once again applying torque to the problem, I spend some time using a drift pin and a small ball-peen hammer to tap each chemically soaked fastener. Afterwards I add more penetrant around each screw head. Instead of immediately reverting to a brute force approach, which more often than not leads to a broken fastener or a damaged screw slot, I let the penetrant do its thing and return the next day with my portable impact driver and assortment of screw driver bits. The small Makita impact tool applies a pulsing torque. Combined with a little penetrant and a lot of patience, I’ve found this tool to be very effective on stubborn fasteners. Screw diameters of ¼ inch or less are not hard to snap so use pulsing torque is far better than more leverage and brute force.</p><p>If the screw slot is damaged it’s time to switch gears and be ready to drill out the head of the screw and pull the hardware off the remaining stud. A stud remover fitted to a socket wrench works better than vise grips when it comes to backing out a headless screw. But it requires a half-inch or more of the screw stem to be exposed.</p><p>The secret to drilling off the damaged head of a screw involves the use of a drill bit made for stainless steel. Place it in the chuck of a low-speed drill that delivers ample torque at slow speeds. Those using a dull bit and a high-speed drill are likely to work-harden the stainless steel screw head, making it even harder to drill. Applying cutting oil that both cools and lubricates a bit will make drilling more effective.</p><a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/landing/subscribe-now?t=bottomsub"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-894424 aligncenter" src="https://qa.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/ps_website_ad_728x150.png" alt="" width="728" height="150" /></a></div></div><h2>Along the Column</h2><h3 class="mb-2 mt-4 font-display font-semimedium text-base first:mt-0">Critical Hardware and Load Points</h3><p>A sailboat mast is like a long electrical fuse: one bad spot and the show is over. Critical failures are usually linked to standing rigging failures and can occur at toggle or tang attachment points, on the spar itself or at spreader tips and roots. Upper shroud tang fittings, near the masthead, need a close look. Check clevis pin holes for elongation and Tball or stem ball cups for deformation.</p><p>Sight along the open spans of the spar, where no hardware is attached. It should be free of abrasion marks and signs of halyard shackle damage. It’s surprising how many painstakingly applied paint jobs are ruined by halyard slating cause by poorly set halyards. During this part of the inspection also check exit sheaves, winch bases/pads, mast steps, the bow light, radar bracket and other attached hardware.</p><p>The gooseneck fitting and boom vang points of attachment are high-stress areas and prone to developing stress cracks. Just below this union, forces converge at the mast partners, the reinforced area where a keel-stepped spar passes through the deck. Check here for stress-related damage as well as corrosion issues. If you find signs of extensive pitting or stress cracks, a cosmetic repair can be more harm than help. Have a local rigger with a good reputation take a close look at what you have uncovered.</p><h3 class="mb-2 mt-4 font-display font-semimedium text-base first:mt-0">Checking the Mast Track</h3><p>The mainsail mast track should be straight and the slugs, slides or cars that run in or on them should slide freely. Take an extra slide or car and hand test the track, identifying any points where friction increases. Problems are often caused by burred or dented metal, oxidation in an internal track or misalignment at track joints. Most of these issues are easy to resolve while the spar is horizontal and access is optimized. In-mast or in-boom furling systems each have an inspection and maintenance routine outlined by the manufacturer. Maintaining optimum reliability revolves around following these guidelines. Care should be taken to avoid keeping paint and primer from hampering track function.</p><p>Search for causes of abrasion, eliminate the dings and dents from halyard shackles by solving lead problems. And be on the lookout for hairline cracks emanating from fasteners on the leading edge of the mast. Modern spar design accounts for backstay tensioning that induces bend in the mast to adjust headsail shape. This bending results in an intentional tension increase on the spar’s leading edge, adding new stress to a column already in compression. Small cracks emanating from fasteners on the leading edge of the mast can be enlarged as the mast is intentionally bowed.</p><div class="brief"><div class="brief_title">Masts Require Special Prep for a Finish that Will Last</div><div class="brief_content"><p>Every sailor who’s painted anything on their boat has plenty of tips to share. But when it comes to useful insider advice, pay more attention to the pros who have learned what works over many years. The good news is that although paint brand allegiance may vary, generic mast prep and painting techniques have a high degree of correlation.</p><p>When it comes to the first step in the prep process, every expert sings the same refrain. Remove the hardware if possible, especially if there’s any sign of blistering or paint failure around the edges. If there’s no sign of any corrosion at all, and the fasteners are likely to snap rather than release, carefully prep and tape around the hardware.</p><p>Sand, wire brush or sand/soda blast all areas where corrosion has pitted or left the surface covered with white aluminum oxide. Take a close look at the heel of the mast and the mast step itself. Both need to be free of corrosion and not damaged by metal loss or physical damage. The same goes for the area where spreaders, stays and shrouds attach. The masthead fitting also deserves close scrutiny. Inspect the aluminum around where the sheave axle(s) attach. A corroded aluminum masthead truck, with deterioration around the support for headstay or backstay toggles, can spell disaster. This corrosion inspection is a good time to catch pending problems.</p><p>In most cases, OEM painted spars hold up quite well, especially those that have been carefully prepped, epoxyprimed and LPU top coated. Eventually, weathering causes the gloss to disappear, but the paint retains excellent adhesive quality. If you’re facing such a challenge and there’s little or no sign of physical damage or corrosion around hardware, there’s nothing wrong with simply renewing the top coat.</p><figure id="attachment_456667" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-456667" style="width: 296px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-456667 size-medium" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/paint-296x300.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="296" height="300" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/paint-296x300.jpg.optimal.jpg 296w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/paint-300x304.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/paint-400x406.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/paint-100x100.jpg.optimal.jpg 100w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/paint-24x24.jpg.optimal.jpg 24w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/paint-48x48.jpg.optimal.jpg 48w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/paint-96x96.jpg.optimal.jpg 96w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/paint.jpg.optimal.jpg 507w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 296px) 100vw, 296px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-456667" class="wp-caption-text">1. Our LPU test compared one- and two-part polyurethanes, as well as some waterbased paints and household enamels (see PS December 2012 “Topside Paint Test Endurance Test : 3-year-Checkup”). 2. Paint prep usually begins with cleaning and dewaxing to remove contaminants before sanding and painting per the paint manufacturer’s recommendations. 3. Badger-hair brushes have held up well in past Practical Sailor tests, see PS April 2011, “Paintbrushes Get LPU Workout.”</figcaption></figure><p>In such cases, begin with a wash and/ dewax cleanup, sand with 220/320, remove dust, tape off hardware, solvent wipe and apply of two coats of the same (or similar type) topcoat, scuff-sand between coats.</p><p>However, if there are dings, scrapes or areas where corrosion has damaged the coating or areas where paint adhesion is failing, a decision must be made between spot repairs and complete mast redo. The latter involves removal of most or all of the hardware and stripping off every bit of the old paint. A spot repair approach is much less labor intensive, but if corrosion is rampant, spot repairing can be counterproductive.</p><p>During the prep process it’s essential to clean and degrease the surface before doing any sanding or other abrasive work. I prefer to use the solvent/cleaner of the paint manufacturer I’ve chosen. Clean cotton rags work best, and by meticulously wet wiping the surface you eliminate contaminants that can be forced into the substrate during sanding.</p><p>In the case of a repair and recoat effort, once the corrosion and flaking paint have been removed, feather in the adjacent painted mast surface with 60- 80 grit paper to achieve a toothy grip for the epoxy primer that follows. When doing a spot repair, this taper zone becomes an important test of one’s ability to feather an edge and hide the old to new paint junction. Seamless blending of the primer sets the stage for a successful, smooth transition spot repair. If, as you sand the boundary, the old paint continues to flake rather than allow you to feather the edge, It time to switch gears and consider removing all the paint.</p><p>An important step in painting aluminum is to get an epoxy primer on a freshly sanded and clean surface as soon as possible. When painting an entire spar, It helps if you can set up a way to hang the mast at waist level so it can be rotated in order to access all surfaces efficiently.</p><figure id="attachment_456668" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-456668" style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-456668 size-medium" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/paint2-300x267.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="267" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/paint2-300x267.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/paint2-400x356.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/paint2.jpg.optimal.jpg 505w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-456668" class="wp-caption-text">1. A good linear polyurethane will flow evenly and pull together as it cures, making brush strokes nearly disappear. 2. Time spent masking is time saved painting and cleaning up. We compared masking tapes (see PS October 2021, “3M Masking Tape Matchup”). 3. When covering larger areas like a hull, painting goes faster with two people working together—one to mix and roll, one to tip with the brush (see PS August 2009, ”Dare We Do it Ourselves?”).</figcaption></figure><h3>PRODUCT UPDATE</h3><p>Interlux recommends doing the degrease wipe down with their 202 Solvent Wash prior to sanding. Then prime the spar using their InterProtect 2000E/2001E, thinned 15-20% with their brush or spray reducer. It’s a user friendly epoxy primer and easy to sand. Two coats makes the 60-80 grit sanding marks disappear. Both single-part Bright Sides and two part Perfection deliver a smooth glossy finish. The former is easier to apply and the latter is more durable and long lived.</p><p><strong>Pettit</strong> offers a complete lineup of aluminum paint and prep products. Their approach kicks off with a solvent clean and a medium grit emery cloth sanding. When the residue has been removed, a thin coat of #6455 Primer should be applied. Two hours later, EZ Prime #6149 is applied and when it’s cured and sanded with 220 (repeat if necessary). Finish with two coats of Easypoxy.</p><p><strong>Awl Grip</strong> recommends an initial cleaning with their surface cleaner T340 followed by a vigorous Scotchbrite scrubbing with Deoxidine and a thorough rinse to remove all residue. When dry prime with 30-Y-94 and within 3-6 hours, without sanding, apply 545 epoxy primer. Sand 220/320 and top coat with Awl Craft 2000.</p><p>If the spar was previously anodized precede the above with a 10-minute wash using a 33% solution of natrium hydroxide. Don’t let the solution dry on the spar. Immediately water-rinse and follow the prime and paint process above.</p><a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/landing/subscribe-now?t=bottomsub"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-894424 aligncenter" src="https://qa.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/ps_website_ad_728x150.png" alt="" width="728" height="150" /></a></div></div><h2>Spreaders</h2><p>Spreader junctions are like a dangerous highway intersection, a point where competing forces interact and where there are no traffic lights to tame the flow. Rigging tension on the windward side of a sailboat cause compression loads to increase in the windward spreader(s) and decrease in the leeward spreader(s). Discontinuous standing rigging optimizes wire/rod diameter in each panel section, but it also complicates spreader tip hardware. All too often, spreader boots or a well-meaning taping effort, ends up looking like a response to an ankle injury. Even worse it creates a moisture-holding corrosion bath that enhances galvanic corrosion and oxidation. The goal is to avoid going overboard with padding and tape and making sure that water will not collect around spreader tip hardware.</p><p>Spreader bases are another realm of serious concern due to cycle loading, multidirectional forces and dissimilar metal contact. Swept back spreaders, especially those that eliminate the need for a backstay, cope with even greater loads. So when the rig is un-stepped, check how the spreader attachment was engineered. Was a doubler added to the mast wall and/ or were cutouts installed and hardware added to connect spreader pairs? In either case, corrosion in key load path areas can greatly decrease the spar’s ability to cope with the fluctuating loads. It’s no surprise that masts often break just above a set of spreaders.</p><h2>At the Masthead</h2><p>Once launched, it’s hard to see what’s going on at the masthead. This means that when the spar is down it’s time to get a really close look at the mast truck and its associated fittings. Begin by disconnecting the standing rigging and checking the geometry of every hole that supports a clevis pin. The rule of thumb is: round is good, elliptical is bad. This goes for the tangs that connect upper shrouds to the spar as well as the holes in a welded aluminum masthead fitting. The loss of an upper shroud while beating to windward usually brings down the mast, so extra attention in this area is time well spent.</p><div class="brief"><div class="brief_title">Repairing Carbon Fiber Spars</div><div class="brief_content"><p>Carbon spar manufacturing mimics the engineering pioneered in the aerospace industry. They have become an essential component In the most competitive ranks of sailboat racing and caught on with cruising sailors who own lighter, more performance oriented sailboats.</p><p>Most spars are built on metal mandrels by carefully aligning layers of prepreg unidirectional and multi-axial carbon fiber from masthead to heel. Intermittently, a debulking process is used to squeeze the layers together, and after the laminate schedule has been carefully aligned, it’s placed in an autoclave. Here the epoxy prepreg in the carbon material becomes viscous and cures under controlled heat and air pressure. These materials are expensive, the labor is time-consuming and the quality control must be rigorous.</p><figure id="attachment_456673" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-456673" style="width: 200px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-456673" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/RN1_1533-200x300.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="300" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/RN1_1533-200x300.jpg.optimal.jpg 200w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/RN1_1533-681x1024.jpg.optimal.jpg 681w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/RN1_1533-768x1154.jpg.optimal.jpg 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/RN1_1533-1022x1536.jpg.optimal.jpg 1022w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/RN1_1533-1363x2048.jpg.optimal.jpg 1363w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/RN1_1533-696x1046.jpg.optimal.jpg 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/RN1_1533-1068x1605.jpg.optimal.jpg 1068w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/RN1_1533-300x451.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/RN1_1533-400x601.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/RN1_1533-scaled.jpg.optimal.jpg 1703w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-456673" class="wp-caption-text">1. This sheared in two carbon-fiber mast reveals what happens when a shroud fails and the bending moments exceeds the breaking strength of the composite structure.</figcaption></figure><p>One of the major advantages of carbon mast building is the ability to engineer the layup to coincide with the load paths and stresses in the structure. Finite element analysis has helped identify how and where forces are transferred through the tube section. Weight is saved by only adding material where it is needed.</p><p>A cruising boat designer may opt for extra reinforcement that increases the safety factor by raising the breaking point of the material. Racing sailors have validated the performance uptick associated with carbon spars. Carbon/epoxy laminates do not suffer from corrosion but they are anything but immune to UV light. It’s one of the reasons a white primer and LPU topcoat is the sensible finish.</p><p>Minor impact damage and abrasion from poorly led running rigging is fairly straight forward to repair. But damage linked to sailing loads that cause major cracks in the laminate or interlayer delamination is another story altogether. In these cases, the spar builder or a composites shop engineer has some tough decisions to make. The big challenge is when a high-tech laminate bundle fails it’s very difficult to scarf in a new section that will handle all the loads in a manner that’s equivalent to, let alone, better than new. Some insurance companies put restrictions or higher premiums on coverage of carbon masts.</p><figure id="attachment_456674" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-456674" style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-456674" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/RN1_1766-300x200.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="200" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/RN1_1766-300x200.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/RN1_1766-1024x681.jpg.optimal.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/RN1_1766-768x511.jpg.optimal.jpg 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/RN1_1766-1536x1022.jpg.optimal.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/RN1_1766-2048x1363.jpg.optimal.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/RN1_1766-696x463.jpg.optimal.jpg 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/RN1_1766-1068x711.jpg.optimal.jpg 1068w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/RN1_1766-400x266.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-456674" class="wp-caption-text">2. As with an aluminum spar, the hardware on a carbon fiber spar needs to be sealed and bedded.</figcaption></figure><a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/landing/subscribe-now?t=bottomsub"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-894424 aligncenter" src="https://qa.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/ps_website_ad_728x150.png" alt="" width="728" height="150" /></a></div></div><p><em>This article was originally published on 24 April 2022 and has been updated.</em></p><a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/landing/subscribe-now?t=bottomsub"><img class="size-full wp-image-894424 aligncenter" src="https://qa.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/ps_website_ad_728x150.png" alt="" width="728" height="150" /></a><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/revive-your-mast-like-a-pro-2">Revive Your Mast Like a Pro</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>https://www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/revive-your-mast-like-a-pro-2/feed</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>0</slash:comments> </item> <item> <title>Waterline or Keel? Setting Your Depth Sounder</title> <link>https://www.practical-sailor.com/marine-electronics/depth-sounder-basics</link> <comments>https://www.practical-sailor.com/marine-electronics/depth-sounder-basics#comments</comments> <dc:creator><![CDATA[Marc Robic]]></dc:creator> <pubDate>Mon, 27 Oct 2025 08:00:00 +0000</pubDate> <category><![CDATA[Marine Electronics]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Subscriber Only]]></category> <guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.practical-sailor.com/?p=901402</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p>Ever since electronic or sonar/transducer type depth sounders have been around, sailors and captains have had love/hate debates over how a depth sounder should be calibrated and displayed, especially on sailboats. One group believes the readings should provide the depth at the waterline, basically from the surface of the water to the bottom of the […]</p><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/marine-electronics/depth-sounder-basics">Waterline or Keel? Setting Your Depth Sounder</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ever since electronic or sonar/transducer type depth sounders have been around, sailors and captains have had love/hate debates over how a depth sounder should be calibrated and displayed, especially on sailboats. One group believes the readings should provide the depth at the waterline, basically from the surface of the water to the bottom of the sea or lake. Whilst another group believes it should provide the depth from under the keel itself. And yet, another group, albeit thankfully smaller, believe it should be from the sounding unit, wherever it happens to be installed. I’ll leave that latter group out of “this” debate, as that just makes no sense.</p><div class="wp-block-group"><div class="wp-block-group__inner-container"><div id="story-paywall-subscribe" class="td-pb-row"><div class="td-pb-span12 paywall-red-text">To continue reading this article or issue you must be a paid member. <a id="ofielogin" class="td-login-modal-js" href="#login-form"><u>Sign in</u></a></div><div class="td-pb-span4"><figure><a href="/landing/subscribe-now/?t=storyofie"><img class="alignnone" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/digitaldevicesps-1.png" alt="" width="220" /></a></figure><a class="ofiebutton" href="/landing/subscribe-now/?t=storyofie">JOIN NOW</a> </div><div class="td-pb-span8"><h4>Join Practical Sailor</h4><div class="paywall-text"><strong>Get full access to Practical-Sailor.com – more than 4,000 articles – for just $34.</strong></div><div class="paywall-text"><a href="/landing/subscribe-now/?t=storyofie">Join today</a> and save 42% off our full price.</div><h5><strong>Already a member?</strong></h5><a class="td-login-modal-js" href="#login-form"><strong>Click Here to Sign In</strong></a> | <a href="/my-account/lost-password/"><strong>Forgot your password?</strong></a> | <a href="/online-account-activation/"><strong>Activate Web Access</strong></a> </div></div></div></div><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/marine-electronics/depth-sounder-basics">Waterline or Keel? Setting Your Depth Sounder</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>https://www.practical-sailor.com/marine-electronics/depth-sounder-basics/feed</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>16</slash:comments> </item> <item> <title>What’s Really Happening to Catalina & Tartan Yachts? | Michael Reardon and American Boatbuilding</title> <link>https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/whats-really-happening-to-catalina-tartan-yachts-michael-reardon-and-american-boatbuilding</link> <comments>https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/whats-really-happening-to-catalina-tartan-yachts-michael-reardon-and-american-boatbuilding#respond</comments> <dc:creator><![CDATA[Tim Labute]]></dc:creator> <pubDate>Sat, 25 Oct 2025 12:00:15 +0000</pubDate> <category><![CDATA[Video]]></category> <guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.practical-sailor.com/?p=901372</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p>The sailing world is buzzing — Catalina Yachts has halted production, Tartan Yachts has new owners, and one man now controls some of America’s most legendary sailboat brands. In this video, we take a deep dive into Michael Reardon, founder and CEO of Daedalus Yachts, the man behind the recent wave of acquisitions that brought […]</p><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/whats-really-happening-to-catalina-tartan-yachts-michael-reardon-and-american-boatbuilding">What’s Really Happening to Catalina & Tartan Yachts? | Michael Reardon and American Boatbuilding</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The sailing world is buzzing — Catalina Yachts has halted production, Tartan Yachts has new owners, and one man now controls some of America’s most legendary sailboat brands. In this video, we take a deep dive into Michael Reardon, founder and CEO of Daedalus Yachts, the man behind the recent wave of acquisitions that brought Catalina Yachts, Tartan Yachts, Freedom Yachts, and True North under one roof. We’ll look at Reardon’s background in carbon-fiber yacht building, his bold claims of reviving U.S. manufacturing, and the growing concern across the sailing community about what’s really happening behind factory doors in Florida and Ohio. Are these classic brands being reborn with new technology and investment — or are we witnessing the unraveling of American yachtbuilding as we know it?</p><a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/landing/subscribe-now?t=bottomsub"><img class="size-full wp-image-894424 aligncenter" src="https://qa.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/ps_website_ad_728x150.png" alt="" width="728" height="150" /></a><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/whats-really-happening-to-catalina-tartan-yachts-michael-reardon-and-american-boatbuilding">What’s Really Happening to Catalina & Tartan Yachts? | Michael Reardon and American Boatbuilding</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/whats-really-happening-to-catalina-tartan-yachts-michael-reardon-and-american-boatbuilding/feed</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>0</slash:comments> </item> <item> <title>Catalina 250 Used Boat Review</title> <link>https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/sailboats-21-30ft/catalina-250</link> <comments>https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/sailboats-21-30ft/catalina-250#comments</comments> <dc:creator><![CDATA[Darrell Nicholson]]></dc:creator> <pubDate>Wed, 22 Oct 2025 08:00:00 +0000</pubDate> <category><![CDATA[Sailboats 21-30ft]]></category> <category><![CDATA[used_sailboats]]></category> <guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.practical-sailor.com/uncategorized/catalina-250</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p>The Catalina 250 is one of a group of relatively lightweight, shallow-draft trailerable cruising boats that appeared in the mid-1990s, utilizing water ballast to provide stability. These boats notably the C-250, the Hunter 26, and the MacGregor 26 all are of very modern design, are relatively inexpensive, and feature workmanship and materials of generally serviceable but by no means superior quality. Their sailing qualities and accommodation plans make them suitable for daysailing and casual overnighting, rather than for serious cruising.</p><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/sailboats-21-30ft/catalina-250">Catalina 250 Used Boat Review</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p class="caption"><span style="font-family: Verdana, BlinkMacSystemFont, -apple-system, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Open Sans', 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;">The Catalina 250 is one of a group of relatively lightweight, shallow-draft trailerable cruising boats that appeared in the mid-1990s, utilizing water ballast to provide stability. These boats—notably the C-250, the Hunter 26, and the MacGregor 26—all are of very modern design, are relatively inexpensive, and feature workmanship and materials of generally serviceable but by no means superior quality. Their sailing qualities and accommodation plans make them suitable for daysailing and casual overnighting, rather than for serious cruising.</span></p><p>Such boats tend to attract mainly first-time buyers, the budget-conscious, and those who give a high priority to the mobility and self-storage that goes with trailerability. We believe that most experienced sailors—generally folks who like to go cruising for more than a few days at a time, occasionally find themselves offshore in unpredictable weather, and prefer a boat that looks like a boat in the traditional sense—will find that this era of water ballasted boats are not suited to their needs.</p><h2><strong>Design</strong></h2><p>At first glance, utilizing water ballast would seem to be ideal for trailering. Afloat, the weight of the water (in theory at least) provides stiffness under sail. And when it’s time to hitch up the trailer, the ballast water is drained, lightening the hull and thus making it easier to tow.</p><p>However, there are problems:</p><ol><li>The depth of the ballast, which cannot be very low if the shallow draft so desirable for launching a boat from a ramp is to be maintained.</li><li>The need to spread it out into the ends of the hull in order to attain enough weight to be effective.</li><li>Its density, which by necessity is the same as the medium in which it is immersed—less than one-eleventh the density of lead, the most popular ballast material.</li></ol><p>Without getting into a complicated discussion of metacentric heights and centers of buoyancy versus centers of gravity, suffice it to say that the deeper the ballast the stiffer the hull, the heavier the ballast the stiffer the hull, and the lighter the ends of its hull the faster the boat. These are the facts of life, and so far no one, including Catalina, has come up with a way to get around them.</p><h3>Ballast Tank</h3><p>The C-250’s ballast tank is basically a slab-like box inside the bottom of the hull. It measures an average of only about 6-in. high, and is shaped in plan view something like a smaller version of the waterline of the boat, extending close to 14 ft. from the stem to just aft of the companionway ladder along the keel, and outward to the hull skin along the sides. This provides a compartment of a little less than 19 cubic feet, containing 1,200 lb. of water. That may sound like a lot, until you consider that the same volume of lead would weigh 13,284 lb., and the ballast is concentrated less than 18 in. below the waterline with the boat floating level. The result is that the boat is not as stiff under sail as its lead-ballasted keel-centerboard cousins, such as the Precision 23.</p><p>Looking beyond the technical aspects of design, we see a boat that does not match our traditional ideas as to how a sailboat should look. However, this is a subjective matter, so we leave it to the reader to decide what looks good and what doesn’t.</p><p><span style="color: #000000;"><div class="su-box su-box-style-default" id="" style="border-color:#00586d;border-radius:3px;"><div class="su-box-title" style="background-color:#158ba0;color:#FFFFFF;border-top-left-radius:1px;border-top-right-radius:1px">Catalina 250</div><div class="su-box-content su-u-clearfix su-u-trim" style="border-bottom-left-radius:1px;border-bottom-right-radius:1px"></span></p><figure id="attachment_900535" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-900535" style="width: 498px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-900535 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/catalina250-linedrawing.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="The centerboard, when deployed, sweeps back approximately 15 degrees rather than dropping vertically, though early brochures incorrectly depicted it as vertical. The shallow internal water ballast tank extends 14 feet from stem to just aft of the companionway. Courtesy of SailboatData.com" width="498" height="873" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/catalina250-linedrawing.jpg.optimal.jpg 498w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/catalina250-linedrawing-171x300.jpg.optimal.jpg 171w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/catalina250-linedrawing-300x526.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/catalina250-linedrawing-400x701.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 498px) 100vw, 498px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-900535" class="wp-caption-text">The centerboard, when deployed, sweeps back approximately 15 degrees rather than dropping vertically, though early brochures incorrectly depicted it as vertical. The shallow internal water ballast tank extends 14 feet from stem to just aft of the companionway. Courtesy of SailboatData.com</figcaption></figure><div><table id="tablepress-593" class="tablepress tablepress-id-593"><thead><tr class="row-1"> <th class="column-1">Sailboat Specifications</th><th class="column-2">Courtesy of Sailboatdata.com</th></tr></thead><tbody class="row-striping row-hover"><tr class="row-2"> <td class="column-1">Hull Type:</td><td class="column-2">Fin w/transom hung rudder</td></tr><tr class="row-3"> <td class="column-1">Rigging Type:</td><td class="column-2">Masthead Sloop</td></tr><tr class="row-4"> <td class="column-1">LOA:</td><td class="column-2">25.00 ft / 7.62 m</td></tr><tr class="row-5"> <td class="column-1">LWL:</td><td class="column-2">21.25 ft / 6.48 m</td></tr><tr class="row-6"> <td class="column-1">S.A. (reported):</td><td class="column-2">265.00 ft² / 24.62 m²</td></tr><tr class="row-7"> <td class="column-1">Beam:</td><td class="column-2">8.50 ft / 2.59 m</td></tr><tr class="row-8"> <td class="column-1">Displacement:</td><td class="column-2">4,200.00 lb / 1,905 kg</td></tr><tr class="row-9"> <td class="column-1">Ballast:</td><td class="column-2">1,050.00 lb / 476 kg</td></tr><tr class="row-10"> <td class="column-1">Max Draft:</td><td class="column-2">5.00 ft / 1.52 m</td></tr><tr class="row-11"> <td class="column-1">Construction:</td><td class="column-2">FG</td></tr><tr class="row-12"> <td class="column-1">First Built:</td><td class="column-2">1995</td></tr><tr class="row-13"> <td class="column-1">Builder:</td><td class="column-2">Catalina Yachts (USA)</td></tr><tr class="row-14"> <td class="column-1"></td><td class="column-2"></td></tr><tr class="row-15"> <td class="column-1">S.A. / Displ.:</td><td class="column-2">16.33</td></tr><tr class="row-16"> <td class="column-1">Bal. / Displ.:</td><td class="column-2">25</td></tr><tr class="row-17"> <td class="column-1">Disp: / Len:</td><td class="column-2">195.4</td></tr><tr class="row-18"> <td class="column-1">Comfort Ratio:</td><td class="column-2">16.77</td></tr><tr class="row-19"> <td class="column-1">Capsize Screening Formula:</td><td class="column-2">2.11</td></tr><tr class="row-20"> <td class="column-1">S#:</td><td class="column-2">2.68</td></tr><tr class="row-21"> <td class="column-1">Hull Speed:</td><td class="column-2">6.18 kn</td></tr><tr class="row-22"> <td class="column-1">Pounds/Inch Immersion:</td><td class="column-2">645.39 pounds/inch</td></tr><tr class="row-23"> <td class="column-1"></td><td class="column-2"></td></tr><tr class="row-24"> <td class="column-1">I:</td><td class="column-2">29.00 ft / 8.84 m</td></tr><tr class="row-25"> <td class="column-1">J:</td><td class="column-2">9.00 ft / 2.74 m</td></tr><tr class="row-26"> <td class="column-1">P:</td><td class="column-2">24.50 ft / 7.47 m</td></tr><tr class="row-27"> <td class="column-1">E:</td><td class="column-2">11.00 ft / 3.35 m</td></tr><tr class="row-28"> <td class="column-1">S.A. Fore:</td><td class="column-2">130.50 ft² / 12.12 m²</td></tr><tr class="row-29"> <td class="column-1">S.A. Main:</td><td class="column-2">134.75 ft² / 12.52 m²</td></tr><tr class="row-30"> <td class="column-1">S.A. Total (100% Fore + Main Triangles):</td><td class="column-2">265.25 ft² / 24.64 m²</td></tr><tr class="row-31"> <td class="column-1">S.A./Displ. (calc.):</td><td class="column-2">16.35</td></tr><tr class="row-32"> <td class="column-1">Est. Forestay Length:</td><td class="column-2">30.36 ft / 9.25 m</td></tr><tr class="row-33"> <td class="column-1">Mast Height from DWL:</td><td class="column-2">33.25 ft / 10.13 m</td></tr></tbody></table><!-- #tablepress-593 from cache --></div></div></div><div></div><h2><strong>Performance and Handling</strong></h2><p>The C-250’s cockpit-mounted outboard, full-battened main, and relatively small (110%) jib all contribute to relatively easy handling. In fact, the owner of our test boat frequently singlehands. However, he discovered it’s a nuisance to tack by himself, since the jib sheet winches are nowhere near the tiller. To tack, he has to abandon the tiller, move to the forward end of the cockpit, uncleat the lazy sheet, pull it off the winch, then move back to the helm before the boat strays too far. When it has passed through the eye of the wind, he again leaves the helm, grabs the new sheet, gives it a couple of turns around the new sheet winch, then trims.</p><p>This activity isn’t helped by the fact that (A) neither winch handle can be cranked through 360 degrees without crushing your knuckles against the nearby lifeline stanchion (which is less than 9 in. away from the winch centerline), (B) the jib sheet lead runs from its winch to a Harken cam cleat, mounted very close to the winch drum, and (C) the lead from the cleat runs across the boat, rather than aft. We’d rather see the winches moved a foot or so forward on the cabintop, and the direction of hauling switched to straight aft, so a singlehander can trim from farther back in the cockpit. A longer tiller or a telescoping tiller extension could help alleviate the problem.</p><p>The C-250 has a relatively easy motion, characteristic of a more heavily ballasted boat, no doubt due to the spread-out water ballast. As another boating writer pointed out, the C-250 “doesn’t bob and pitch like a lightweight.” One tends to think of this characteristic a big plus, until one remembers that the slower rhythm of the pitching is at least partly the result of the boat’s spread-out water ballast, making its heavy ends act like twin pendulums, thereby cutting its speed through waves. Where boat speed is concerned, it’s well to remember that “bobbing and pitching” isn’t all bad.</p><h3>Under Power</h3><p>Under power, our test boat was easily controlled, and made close to 6 knots in flat water with the engine wide open. The owner’s Honda 8-hp. outboard was about the right size, though a 6-hp. unit might have done as well, assuming no more than three or four passengers and a normal payload. A long shaft engine is required, and an extra long shaft (XLS) is recommended by the manufacturer.</p><h3>Under Sail</h3><p>We sailed the test boat in a light breeze of 4 to 8 knots, with puffs to 10, and virtually no chop. With three aboard, all sitting to leeward to test stability, we got the boat to heel to 20 degrees in about 7 knots of breeze, close hauled. With the same crew complement redeployed to weather, we figure the boat could stand up to winds of 12 knots or so without heeling more. Above that angle, even considering that the stock 110% jib is relatively small, it probably would be time to reef the main.</p><h3>Reefing</h3><p>We didn’t attempt to reef the main, but we could see that it would be a bit difficult, given the way the controls are rigged. The single reefing line leads from a bail on the boom, up to the leech cringle, then down to the boom again and forward, then up to the luff reefing cringle, then down toward the deck. But rather than the conventional lead, descending all the way to the deck, reversing direction through a deck block, then rising to a cleat on the mast, on the C-250 the lead is directly from the reef cringle down to the cleat. Adding the extra block on deck would allow easier handling, thereby improving the reefing system significantly, at little additional expense.</p><p>Actually, reefing the main at sea would be virtually impossible, given the way the test boat was delivered, with no topping lift on the main boom. The owner added it later.</p><h3>Sails</h3><p>Sails that come with the boat are “Catalina” brand, constructed of soft-lay Dacron, and we judged them to be serviceable but not high-performance quality. Our test boat pointed within 45 degrees of the wind, and on a reach, sailed at about 5 knots in the puffs. We figured the boat could probably add a half knot on at least some points of sail if it was given a suit of sails with a bit flatter shape and less curl at the leech. We’d also like to see sacrificial UV edge panels on the roller-furling jib, rather than UV-treated Dacron as supplied. Without them, a separate sock (not supplied by Catalina) is required to ward off accelerated deterioration of sailcloth due to the sun’s ultraviolet rays.</p><p>Downwind performance would also be improved if the acutely swept-back shrouds (chainplates 24 in. abaft the mast) were repositioned, so the boom could swing farther forward.</p><h3>Tiller Versus Wheel</h3><p>Our test boat was equipped with a tiller rather than the optional Edson wheel. We recommend against a wheel for this size and type of boat, for many reasons: It’s easier with a tiller to feel when the boat is balanced under sail; it’s faster to turn with a tiller; and a tiller is over a thousand dollars less expensive.</p><p>Steering on the C-250 was relatively light and balanced, though directional stability was not great, probably a result of the fin-like centerboard and tall, narrow rudder. Thus, even with the sails trimmed perfectly, we found we couldn’t let go of the helm for more than a few seconds before it began to wander up into the wind in the puffs, or bear off in the lulls.</p><h3>Balance and Lead</h3><p>Nevertheless, we were surprised at its relatively good balance, considering the sailplan, underwater profile, and lead. The lead, of course, is the horizontal distance between the sails’ center of effort (CE) brought down to the waterline, and the center of the underwater profile (excluding the area of the rudder), or center of lateral plane (CLP), brought up to the waterline. The rule-of-thumb for the lead of a well-balanced sloop is usually about 14 percent to 19 percent of the designed waterline length, with the CE always forward of the CLP.</p><p>For the C-250, the CE is only about 6 in. aft of the mast; by the above rule-of-thumb, the CLP should be about 3 ft. to 4 ft. aft of the mast. The profile drawing on the brochure indicates that the center of area of the full-down centerboard (virtually at the same location as the CLP) is practically in line with the mast—way too far forward. Normally this would mean a very hard-mouthed helm, with the boat constantly trying to head up into the wind—yet that didn’t happen in the light wind in which we sailed. We were sorry the wind didn’t pipe up more during our test, which would show for sure whether or not the C-250’s design was a rare exception to the lead rule.</p><p>In discussing this situation with Gerry Douglas—Catalina’s former vice president and chief designer who retired in 2021—we learned that the sail plan/profile in the latest sales brochure (dated January, 1995) is incorrectly drawn, in that the board’s full-down position is swept back about 15 degrees, rather than being vertical as shown. But even then, the CLP is nowhere near 3 to 4 feet aft of the mast.</p><h3>Deck Hardware</h3><p>With the four-part vang (included as standard equipment), we didn’t miss the absence of a traveler, since we were able to employ vangsheeting. Garhauer supplies most of the deck gear for the C-250, including the vang, blocks and chainplates. Hardware quality seemed uniformly serviceable, though not fancy. Cabintop jib winches are little Lewmar #6s, okay for the 110% jib but not for a larger headsail.</p><p>We found it quite awkward to move back and forth between the cockpit and the forward deck, especially with the boat heeled and the main hatch open. The smoked Plexiglas main hatch, if closed, might have made it easier to move around, but the boat’s owner was concerned that it might get scratched. An extra set of stanchions midway between the existing ones would help.</p><p>The C-250 sales literature lists “halyards led aft to the cockpit” as a standard feature. This is not accomplished in the conventional manner—turning blocks at the mast base, and rope clutches at the aft end of the cabintop. Instead, the turning blocks are combined with cam cleats right at the mast, and the halyards are cleated at long distance. This simplifies rigging and derigging at a launching ramp, but caused a problem on our test boat: The projecting blocks and cleats can foul a flailing jib sheet during a tack. Also, with sails flying, there is no obvious out-of-the-way place to store the lengthy halyards. Consequently, we’d prefer the more conventional arrangement despite the slightly greater effort required to rig and unrig.</p><h2><strong>Construction</strong></h2><p>The deck is cored with plywood for stiffness, and the cabintop is cored with end-grain balsa to minimize weight high up. The hull is a solid laminate, using knitted fiberglass fabric and a vinylester skin. Catalina says the boat has a “blister-resistant gel coat” and the company offered a limited 5-year gelcoat warranty for new boats.</p><p>The C-250’s hull-deck joint is a modified shoe box type, with a vertical deck flange fitted over the turned-out rim of the hull, creating a joint with both vertical and horizontal mating surfaces—a strong configuration. Before fitting, all surfaces of the joint are swabbed with glue (in this case a bonding putty made with filled polyester resin), and are held together with pop rivets on roughly 3-in. centers while the glue hardens. The rivets are left in place, but probably contribute little if any mechanical support to the joint. A C-shaped rubrail covers the line of pop rivets. The arrangement is neat and strong, but the effect from the exterior is not very salty.</p><figure id="attachment_900529" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-900529" style="width: 891px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-900529 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina-250-Deck.png" alt="The Catalina 250's cockpit features an open transom with the outboard motor mounted in an accessible well forward of the stern. Jib sheet winches are positioned far forward in the cockpit—less than 9 in. from lifeline stanchions—making singlehanded tacking awkward, as the helmsperson must abandon the tiller to work the sheets. Courtesy of BoatTrader.com" width="891" height="594" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina-250-Deck.png 891w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina-250-Deck-300x200.png 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina-250-Deck-768x512.png 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina-250-Deck-696x464.png 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina-250-Deck-400x267.png 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 891px) 100vw, 891px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-900529" class="wp-caption-text">The Catalina 250’s cockpit features an open transom with the outboard motor mounted in an accessible well forward of the stern. Jib sheet winches are positioned far forward in the cockpit—less than 9 in. from lifeline stanchions—making singlehanded tacking awkward, as the helmsperson must abandon the tiller to work the sheets. Courtesy of BoatTrader.com</figcaption></figure><p>The interior hull liner is very extensive, dressing up the cabin nicely, but at the same time almost totally thwarting any efforts to access the inside of the outer skin to make repairs or run electric wires. Still, there is a 1/4-in. to 1/2-in. space between the liner and hull, if you can find a way to get to it. It is joined to the hull along the sheer flange, and is tabbed at seatbacks and seat risers.</p><p>The early Catalina brochures announced that the C-250 had positive flotation, meaning the boat would float when holed. But before production started, the designers decided that flotation space would carve too much living space out of the cabin. So in the production version, there’s no special flotation.</p><h3>Rudder</h3><p>The rudder is of composite construction, with a fiberglass skin covering a rigid foam core. Its cross-section appears to be an efficient foil shape with a square trailing edge about 3/16-in. wide (considered good design). Strangely, the standard rudder is fixed rather than a kick-up type. Because the rudder is by far the deepest part of the boat, and therefore vulnerable to damage, we’d go for the optional kick-up rudder (we think it should be standard). Otherwise, as one owner noted: “The specified 1-ft. 8-in. draft with the board up is with the rudder off, [making] the boat unsteerable!”</p><p>The foil-shaped, fiberglass centerboard has a 3/16-in. thick stainless steel reinforcing structure and some lead in the lower section. The board weighs about 90 lb.</p><h2><strong>On Deck</strong></h2><p>The cockpit is designed for comfort, with fairly high coamings and seat dimensions to suit most people. However, the cockpit seats are 17-in. wide, great for sitting but not for sleeping under the stars. Sleeping on the cockpit floor is a possibility, since it’s 26-in. wide—but you’d better be short, as its length in the clear is only 68 in. Visibility from the helm is good.</p><p>We liked the convenient location of the outboard motor controls, with the motor head accessible without having to reach over the stern. We also liked the fact that a manual bilge pump, located in the port footwell wall, comes standard; and that the cabin table can be set up in the cockpit for al fresco dining.</p><p>The cockpit seemed reasonably safe to us, despite the open transom. Any water that washed in over the sole (not protected from big following seas by even as much as a toerail) would be stopped from entering the cabin by a full bridge deck forward, and would drain out quickly via the same opening. Warning: Be careful not to drop anything that rolls onto the cockpit sole, and if the wash from a passing powerboat comes at you from astern, lift your feet quickly off the sole!</p><p>Stowage in the cockpit, in small (10-in. x 12-in. x 30-in.) under-seat lockers, is sparse. So is the so-called “fuel locker” (the molded fiberglass box just forward of the rudder) which, according to the owner’s manual, is supposed to hold a 6-gallon fuel tank. We don’t see how; in the test boat, at least, the opening in the top of the 13-in. deep box is only 12-1/4 in. x 18-5/8 in. with two of the four corners cut off by trim. A 6-gallon Tempo plastic tank measures 22-in. x 14-in.; even a standard portable metal Yamaha tank has a footprint measuring 12-1/2-in. x 18-1/2-in., and won’t fit. We tried. The owner of our test boat uses a plastic 3-gallon tank from Honda, which does fit.</p><p>The anchor locker at the bow, a triangular compartment with a fiberglass hinged lid, is a little too small. The owner’s manual states it is big enough for a 13-lb. anchor. However, when we tried to insert a 13-lb. U.S. Anchor (a Danforth type), it wasn’t wide enough for the 21-in. stock; the premolded notch in the locker is only 18-in. wide.</p><p>Some anchors rated at 13 lb. will fit. For example, the test boat’s owner happened to have a small (FX-7) Fortress aluminum anchor which fit perfectly. And there is 7-in. of space below the anchor, enough for at least a hundred feet of neatly coiled 3/8-in. line. Be sure to check the dimensions before buying an anchor.</p><h2><strong>Interior</strong></h2><p>The layout below is similar to many other modern sailboats under 30 ft.: A single bright and airy cabin; V-berth forward, extending aft to twin settees forming a U-shaped dining area around a table supported by the mast compression post; an enclosed head compartment complete with a solid teak plywood door; small galley; and a big aft berth behind the companionway ladder, under the cockpit.</p><figure id="attachment_900530" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-900530" style="width: 891px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-900530 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina-250-Interior.png" alt="" width="891" height="594" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina-250-Interior.png 891w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina-250-Interior-300x200.png 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina-250-Interior-768x512.png 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina-250-Interior-696x464.png 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina-250-Interior-400x267.png 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 891px) 100vw, 891px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-900530" class="wp-caption-text">The C-250’s interior features extensive molded fiberglass liner and minimal teak trim—a practical approach that reduces maintenance but limits access to the hull for repairs or modifications. Courtesy of Boattrader.com</figcaption></figure><p>In our opinion, Catalina does a workmanlike job of decorating interiors on a tight budget, and the C- 250 is no exception. We liked the minimal use of teak—just enough to keep the cabin from looking like the proverbial bathtub. We also liked the hull lining from berth-top to sheer clamp, a molded white plastic “ceiling” meant to look like painted wood strips, but much easier to maintain. A teak trim strip, meant to look like a sheer clamp, helps to break up the all-white plastic upper half of the cabin.</p><p>Unfortunately, cabin headroom is only 4 ft. 6 in., both at the galley and in the head. That’s considerably less than the C-250’s arch competitor, the water-ballasted Hunter 26.</p><h3>Pop Top</h3><p>Catalina claims the main hatch on the C-250 is a “pop-top,” but in our opinion, this hatch is not a “pop-top” in the usual sense. We think that, by definition, a true pop-top hatch can be moved upward by rods at all four corners, resulting in a raised roof which is horizontal, or nearly so. Such a pop-top does not materially affect visibility from the helm if canvas side-curtains are not erected, nor does it usually interfere with operation of the mainsail or boom, and therefore in most situations may be used underway. In contrast, the Catalina hatch is hinged at its forward end, and when the aft end is raised, slightly improving headroom aft, forward visibility is reduced too much to safely attempt navigation.</p><h3>Ventilation</h3><p>Ventilation is adequate except for the hottest days. The forward hatch is solid fiberglass (no translucent top), and measures 18-1/2 in. x 20 in. When closed, it is sealed by a polyurethane foam weather strip—probably effective, but not elegant. The sliding main hatch, a slab of 3/8-in. smoked acrylic, is big—38 in. x 33 in. It slides into the hinged, so-called pop-top.</p><p>The fixed portlight in the head has a 4 in. x 10 in. opening-port insert, which adds only minimal ventilation. An overhead hatch, cowl or Dorade vent would be better.</p><h3>Light</h3><p>Light, like ventilation, is adequate for most conditions. During the day, there is plenty of natural light even without a translucent forward hatch. At night, a battery, recharged by the alternator presumed to come with whatever outboard engine the owner decides to buy, supplies the lighting system. Besides a complete set of running lights, steaming light, and anchor light, the battery powers four 5-in. dome lights and two small spots over the dining table. It’s enough light for eating, but if you like to read in bed, you’ll need to add lighting.</p><h3>V-Berth</h3><p>We liked the cloth upholstery on the settees and forward V-berth—a blue suede-like material. Oddly, the aft berth cushion on our test boat was different, a light colored contemporary cotton print. The 3″ cushions were comfortable, but a heavy person might disagree.</p><p>The V-berth measures 75 in. long, 68 in. across the wide end, and 10 in. across the narrow (bow) end—enough space for a very friendly medium-sized couple. The big berth aft has more horizontal space for two, being 76 in. front-to-back, 72 in. across the forward end and 56 in. across the end nearest the transom. For most of its width, however, the overhead is only 17 in. above the cushion top.</p><h3>Cabin</h3><p>In early models, the dining table could be lowered to form an extension to the forward sleeping area, transforming it into a “giant berth.” Though it seem to us like a sound idea, this arrangement has been discontinued.</p><p>The removable cabin table is 37-in. x 34-in., with rounded corners to prevent hip and thigh bruises. It is 3/4-in. thick, with a durable melamine surface, and is well braced by the 2-1/4-in. anodized aluminum compression post, as well as by a pair of folding legs.</p><p>When the forward “giant berth” extension was discontinued, a permanently fixed small cocktail table, 14-in. x 25-in. with a teak veneer surface, was added under the removable table. It’s occasionally handy when the big table is not in place, but is too small and low for most purposes.</p><h3>Galley</h3><p>The galley is small, meant for weekending. Consequently, equipment is minimal: The stove is a single burner Princess gas model, fed through a hose from a butane canister (ABYC allows just one 8-oz. canister below deck at a time).</p><p>There are a few cabinet doors and drawers, but nothing like most sailors would want on a long cruise. Aft of the sink and stove is a space under the galley counter for a large (48-quart) portable Coleman ice chest, suitable for no more than short cruises. And the water tank under the sink contains a minuscule 5 gallons.</p><figure id="attachment_900532" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-900532" style="width: 891px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-900532 size-full" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina-250-Interior2.png" alt="Cabin headroom measures just 4 ft. 6 in. at the galley, considerably less than competing designs like the Hunter 26. Courtesy of Boattrader.com" width="891" height="594" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina-250-Interior2.png 891w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina-250-Interior2-300x200.png 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina-250-Interior2-768x512.png 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina-250-Interior2-696x464.png 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina-250-Interior2-400x267.png 400w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 891px) 100vw, 891px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-900532" class="wp-caption-text">The compact galley features a single-burner Princess gas stove, small sink with 5-gallon freshwater tank below, and space for a 48-quart portable ice chest—accommodations suited to weekending rather than extended cruising. The enclosed head compartment houses a portable toilet. Cabin headroom measures just 4 ft. 6 in. at the galley, considerably less than competing designs like the Hunter 26. Courtesy of BoatTrader.com</figcaption></figure><p>Neither the galley sink nor the head sink uses a through-hull on the drain. Yes, we realize the through-hull fittings (white plastic stubs) are located approximately 7 in. above the waterline when the boat is floating level. And yes, we know how expensive seacocks are. We still think they should be fitted to avoid seawater backing up when the boat is heeled. Plus, plastic tends to degrade in UV.</p><p>The 5-gallon plastic water jug under the galley sink is very difficult to remove for filling or cleaning, due to the maze of hoses and other paraphernalia. Consequently, it’s best filled in situ with a garden hose, which we judge to be somewhat of a nuisance.</p><h3>Battery</h3><p>The 12-volt battery, according to the owner’s manual, is a 90-amp-hour, marine-grade, deep-cycle model. We found it next to impossible to check due to its awkward position in line with the keel and far aft, behind a hatch in the bulkhead at the aft end of the under-cockpit berth. It sits inside a plastic case in a molded fiberglass tray, strapped in place with only a few inches of space between it and the deck. There is not enough space to add a second battery without destroying the built-in tray and relocating it.</p><h3>Head</h3><p>The head compartment contains a portable toilet (a nuisance compared to a permanent head, in our opinion), a tiny sink with cabinet under, and a small hanging locker, handy for stowing wet foul weather gear.</p><h2><strong>Trailer</strong></h2><p>The owner of our test boat, who likes shallow-water cruising, was attracted not by the mobility of a trailerable boat, but instead by its very shoal (20-in.) draft. He purchased his C-250 without a trailer, so we didn’t get to check out either the trailer or the ease of rigging, launching, retrieving and unrigging.</p><p>The relatively easy trailerability of the C-250 cannot be denied. The boat, empty and dry, with the spars tied down on deck, weighs 2,400 lb. Add to that the weight of a trailer (about 1,300 lb.), outboard motor and fuel, water ballast not drained, personal gear and supplies, etc., and you have, probably, another 2,000 lb., bringing the total to about 4,400 lb. at the towbar. That weight puts the C-250 in the capacity range of a large cars, sports-utility vehicles, and vans, including, for example, the Buick Roadmaster wagon, Chevy Caprice, Ford Crown Victoria, Olds Custom Cruiser, Ford Aerostar, and Mazda MPV, when properly equipped with a trailer-towing package.</p><p>However, one of the biggest strains on a tow vehicle is when it’s pulling a boat and trailer up a steep ramp during haul-out. Unfortunately, with a gravity-drain of the water ballast, such as on the C- 250, not all of the 144 gallons will have been drained on the ramp, since it takes 7 minutes to empty the tank with the boat level and on dry land—more time when the boat starts out at an angle and the tank outlet is still submerged.</p><p>On crowded launching ramps with strict time limits or too many impatient boaters waiting in line, owners may have to pull the boat out with virtually all 1,200 lb. of ballast water still aboard. In that case, the tow vehicle would be pulling—up hill, possibly on wet, slick pavement— a load of not 4,400, but 5,600 lb. Few of the vehicles mentioned above are rated to do that. So, before buying, give careful consideration to your intended tow vehicle. These considerations are not just peculiar to the Catalina 250.</p><h2><strong>Summary</strong></h2><p>The C-250 is a purpose-built boat, adequate for daysailing or overnighting and comes with a passel of standard features. While early hulls did have some serious hull problems, including a leak that influenced Catalina’s decision to completely redesign the water ballast tank mold. But Catalina tells us the early hulls have all been retrofitted.</p><p>Also included as standard are sails, mast carrier, pivoting mast step, boom vang, jiffy reefing gear (except for one key block), a three-step swim ladder hinged on the transom, pulpit, lifelines and stanchions, trailer bow eye, and other extras.</p><p>Catalina doesn’t publish an official list base price, and we couldn’t get an exact quote from the dealers we talked to, but by doing a few calculations, we estimated that the base price FOB factory (Woodland Hills, California) when we tested the boat in 1996 was about $15,800. Then there’s commissioning, which may be a nominal $100 to $200, or may escalate for bottom painting, electronics installation, and so on.</p><p>When bought new off the lot, fully equipped with trailer, engine, optional canvas, full electronics, and other goodies, original owners would expect to pay close to $25,000 when the boat was in production. This seems fair to us, even when compared to $12,000 at the time for the MacGregor complete with trailer. The Catalina is just more boat.</p><div><div class="su-box su-box-style-default" id="" style="border-color:#00586d;border-radius:3px;"><div class="su-box-title" style="background-color:#158ba0;color:#ffffff;border-top-left-radius:1px;border-top-right-radius:1px">MARKET SCAN </div><div class="su-box-content su-u-clearfix su-u-trim" style="border-bottom-left-radius:1px;border-bottom-right-radius:1px"><figure id="attachment_901209" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-901209" style="width: 696px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-901209 size-large" src="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina_250_sailboat_Cashalo_2652-795x1024.jpg.optimal.jpg" alt="The Catalina 250's wide 8.5-foot beam, shallow draft and full-battened mainsail provide stability, despite the water ballast system's limitations compared to traditional lead keel designs." width="696" height="896" srcset="https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina_250_sailboat_Cashalo_2652-795x1024.jpg.optimal.jpg 795w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina_250_sailboat_Cashalo_2652-233x300.jpg.optimal.jpg 233w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina_250_sailboat_Cashalo_2652-768x989.jpg.optimal.jpg 768w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina_250_sailboat_Cashalo_2652-1192x1536.jpg.optimal.jpg 1192w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina_250_sailboat_Cashalo_2652-1590x2048.jpg.optimal.jpg 1590w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina_250_sailboat_Cashalo_2652-696x897.jpg.optimal.jpg 696w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina_250_sailboat_Cashalo_2652-1392x1793.jpg.optimal.jpg 1392w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina_250_sailboat_Cashalo_2652-1068x1376.jpg.optimal.jpg 1068w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina_250_sailboat_Cashalo_2652-300x386.jpg.optimal.jpg 300w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina_250_sailboat_Cashalo_2652-400x515.jpg.optimal.jpg 400w, https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Catalina_250_sailboat_Cashalo_2652.jpg.optimal.jpg 1624w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 696px) 100vw, 696px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-901209" class="wp-caption-text">The Catalina 250’s wide 8.5-foot beam, shallow draft and full-battened mainsail provide stability, despite the water ballast system’s limitations compared to traditional lead keel designs.</figcaption></figure></div><div><table id="tablepress-594" class="tablepress tablepress-id-594"><thead><tr class="row-1"> <th class="column-1">Market Scan</th><th class="column-2">Contact</th></tr></thead><tbody class="row-striping row-hover"><tr class="row-2"> <td class="column-1"></td><td class="column-2"></td></tr><tr class="row-3"> <td class="column-1">2005 Catalina 250</td><td class="column-2">Executive Yacht & Ship Brokers</td></tr><tr class="row-4"> <td class="column-1">$15,900 USD</td><td class="column-2">805-410-8754</td></tr><tr class="row-5"> <td class="column-1">Oxnard, California</td><td class="column-2"><a href="https://www.boattrader.com/boat/2005-catalina-250-mkii-9689209/?utm_source=Google+Shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=goog_bt_us_pmax_pop&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22716810858&gbraid=0AAAAAD_I7eABWYyeyX4NKlbv6l4PIplMp&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0Y3HBhCxARIsAN7931VnsEvq1H2fuTrr2sexC2k5dov0EgxM8S8i4H-T40yQ7mqw-x-2ElcaAjSMEALw_wcB" rel="noopener" target="_blank">Boat Trader</a></td></tr><tr class="row-6"> <td class="column-1"></td><td class="column-2"></td></tr><tr class="row-7"> <td class="column-1">2007 Catalina 250</td><td class="column-2">Seacoast Yachts</td></tr><tr class="row-8"> <td class="column-1">$17,950 USD</td><td class="column-2">805-874-5558</td></tr><tr class="row-9"> <td class="column-1">Ventura, California</td><td class="column-2"><a href="https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/2007-catalina-250-9692747/" rel="noopener" target="_blank">Yacht World</a></td></tr></tbody></table><!-- #tablepress-594 from cache --></div></div></div><div></div><div><em>This article was first published on 15 February 1996 and has been updated. </em></div><p> </p><a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/landing/subscribe-now?t=bottomsub"><img class="size-full wp-image-894424 aligncenter" src="https://qa.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/ps_website_ad_728x150.png" alt="" width="728" height="150" /></a><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/sailboats-21-30ft/catalina-250">Catalina 250 Used Boat Review</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/sailboats-21-30ft/catalina-250/feed</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>4</slash:comments> </item> <item> <title>Sparkman & Stephens 48 Bluewater Cruiser Tour | Centre Cockpit Offshore Sailing Yacht Review</title> <link>https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/sparkman-stephens-48-bluewater-cruiser-tour-centre-cockpit-offshore-sailing-yacht-review</link> <comments>https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/sparkman-stephens-48-bluewater-cruiser-tour-centre-cockpit-offshore-sailing-yacht-review#respond</comments> <dc:creator><![CDATA[Tim Labute]]></dc:creator> <pubDate>Mon, 20 Oct 2025 12:00:59 +0000</pubDate> <category><![CDATA[Video]]></category> <guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.practical-sailor.com/?p=901166</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p>Step aboard the legendary Sparkman & Stephens 48 Centre Cockpit Bluewater Cruiser — a proven offshore sailing yacht designed for serious passagemaking. Built by Bennett Brothers in the USA and recently significantly upgraded, this 48-foot sailing yacht is ready to cross oceans in comfort and safety. In this video, we give you a full tour […]</p><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/sparkman-stephens-48-bluewater-cruiser-tour-centre-cockpit-offshore-sailing-yacht-review">Sparkman & Stephens 48 Bluewater Cruiser Tour | Centre Cockpit Offshore Sailing Yacht Review</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Step aboard the legendary Sparkman & Stephens 48 Centre Cockpit Bluewater Cruiser — a proven offshore sailing yacht designed for serious passagemaking. Built by Bennett Brothers in the USA and recently significantly upgraded, this 48-foot sailing yacht is ready to cross oceans in comfort and safety. In this video, we give you a full tour and review of the Sparkman & Stephens 48, highlighting her centre cockpit design, upgraded electrical systems, in-boom furling mainsail, electric winches, lithium batteries, solar power, spacious interior, and luxurious master cabin. Whether you’re searching for the perfect bluewater sailboat for liveaboard cruising, or simply love yacht tours, this walkthrough will show you why the Sparkman & Stephens 48 remains one of the most respected offshore cruisers ever built.</p><a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/landing/subscribe-now?t=bottomsub"><img class="size-full wp-image-894424 aligncenter" src="https://qa.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/ps_website_ad_728x150.png" alt="" width="728" height="150" /></a><p>The post <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/sparkman-stephens-48-bluewater-cruiser-tour-centre-cockpit-offshore-sailing-yacht-review">Sparkman & Stephens 48 Bluewater Cruiser Tour | Centre Cockpit Offshore Sailing Yacht Review</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.practical-sailor.com">Practical Sailor</a>.</p>]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>https://www.practical-sailor.com/video/sparkman-stephens-48-bluewater-cruiser-tour-centre-cockpit-offshore-sailing-yacht-review/feed</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>0</slash:comments> </item> </channel></rss> If you would like to create a banner that links to this page (i.e. this validation result), do the following:
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