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12. <title>Alien Heartbeat</title>
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32. <title>Wash in your Pants, Die in your Boots</title>
33. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2014/01/13/wash-in-your-pants-die-in-your-boots/</link>
34. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2014/01/13/wash-in-your-pants-die-in-your-boots/#comments</comments>
36. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
37. <pubDate>Mon, 13 Jan 2014 04:59:44 +0000</pubDate>
38. <category><![CDATA[Lao Mist]]></category>
39. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
40. <category><![CDATA[Hmong]]></category>
41. <category><![CDATA[Laos]]></category>
42. <category><![CDATA[mountains]]></category>
43. <category><![CDATA[poverty]]></category>
44. <category><![CDATA[travel photography]]></category>
45. <category><![CDATA[travel stories]]></category>
46. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=2706</guid>
47.  
48. <description><![CDATA[My guide failed to mention that to get to our mountain, we have to cross another mountain first. Hours of&#8230;]]></description>
49. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My guide failed to mention that to get to our mountain, we have to cross another mountain first. Hours of straight uphill, and each time I think the top is just ahead, another higher top appears.  Mountains?  What was I thinking?  Just when I think I will have to lay down beside the track and die in my boots, we reach the top of the first mountain and start heading down.</p>
50. <p>After a few hours we reach a Hmong village where we will stay the night.  The Hmong have had a bad deal from history, most recently helping the Americans during the Vietnam War (known here as the &#8220;American War&#8221;) and then being largely abandoned to the victors.</p>
51. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc08026-8_kids-rcpsuw-1200x798.jpg" target="_blank"><img class="aligncenter  wp-image-2704" title="Laos-Hmong_village-8_Hmong_Kids" alt="Laos-Hmong_village-8_Hmong_Kids" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc08026-8_kids-rcpsuw-1200x798.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=798" width="1200" height="798" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc08026-8_kids-rcpsuw-1200x798.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc08026-8_kids-rcpsuw-1200x798.jpg?w=203&amp;h=135 203w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc08026-8_kids-rcpsuw-1200x798.jpg?w=854&amp;h=568 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc08026-8_kids-rcpsuw-1200x798.jpg?w=768&amp;h=511 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
52. <p>This village is 5 families, about 21 people, plus about 50 assorted cows, pigs, chickens, ducks and turkeys, with 5 shiftless dogs and a few miserable cats.  The Hmong prefer top keep their animals close by (unlike the Khmu who let them roam more freely) and with so many animals roaming around there is no grass, just mud and dung.</p>
53. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07973-village-entering-rcpusw-1200x435.jpg" target="_blank"><img class="aligncenter  wp-image-2700" title="Laos-Hmong_village-entering-cows_and_dung" alt="Laos-Hmong_village-entering-cows_and_dung" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07973-village-entering-rcpusw-1200x435.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=435" width="1200" height="435" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07973-village-entering-rcpusw-1200x435.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07973-village-entering-rcpusw-1200x435.jpg?w=242&amp;h=88 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07973-village-entering-rcpusw-1200x435.jpg?w=854&amp;h=310 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07973-village-entering-rcpusw-1200x435.jpg?w=768&amp;h=278 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
54. <p>The village is a day&#8217;s walk from the nearest school, but overall their living conditions don&#8217;t seem any worse than other mountain tribes.  Here a girl going to fetch water:</p>
55. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07986-fetching_water-rcpsuw-1200x682.jpg" target="_blank"><img class="aligncenter  wp-image-2702" title="Laos-Hmong_village-girl_fetching_water" alt="Laos-Hmong_village-girl_fetching_water" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07986-fetching_water-rcpsuw-1200x682.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=682" width="1200" height="682" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07986-fetching_water-rcpsuw-1200x682.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07986-fetching_water-rcpsuw-1200x682.jpg?w=238&amp;h=135 238w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07986-fetching_water-rcpsuw-1200x682.jpg?w=854&amp;h=485 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07986-fetching_water-rcpsuw-1200x682.jpg?w=768&amp;h=436 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
56. <p>While the Hmong in the towns end up as day laborers earning $80 to $100 a month, the Hmong in the mountains are also poor, but at least have their rice and corn and cows and pigs, and their dignity:</p>
57. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07977-sitting_out_front-rcpsuw-1200x699.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2701" title="Laos-Hmong_village-sitting_in_doorway_of_hut" alt="Laos-Hmong_village-sitting_in_doorway_of_hut" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07977-sitting_out_front-rcpsuw-1200x699.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=699" width="1200" height="699" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07977-sitting_out_front-rcpsuw-1200x699.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07977-sitting_out_front-rcpsuw-1200x699.jpg?w=232&amp;h=135 232w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07977-sitting_out_front-rcpsuw-1200x699.jpg?w=854&amp;h=497 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07977-sitting_out_front-rcpsuw-1200x699.jpg?w=768&amp;h=447 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
58. <p>The shower is in the centre of the village, fed by open bamboo pipes running from the nearest stream:</p>
59. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc08012-evening-shower-rcpsuw-1200x614.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2703" title="Laos-Hmong_village-taking_an_evening_shower" alt="Laos-Hmong_village-taking_an_evening_shower" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc08012-evening-shower-rcpsuw-1200x614.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=614" width="1200" height="614" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc08012-evening-shower-rcpsuw-1200x614.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc08012-evening-shower-rcpsuw-1200x614.jpg?w=242&amp;h=124 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc08012-evening-shower-rcpsuw-1200x614.jpg?w=854&amp;h=437 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc08012-evening-shower-rcpsuw-1200x614.jpg?w=768&amp;h=393 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
60. <p>I take my own shower.  Showering with your pants on has the huge advantage of washing your pants and yourself at the same time.</p>
61. <p>As the light fades the various animals start to bed down.  I am sleeping in a bamboo hut with a grass thatched roof and rough earth floor, sharing the one big room with two mangy dogs, one taciturn adult, five gossiping children, and in the doorway, patiently waiting for when all the world&#8217;s food will finally become hers, a large pig:</p>
62. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07971-welcoming_pig-rcpsuw-1200x640.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2699" title="Laos-Hmong_village-Pig_in_hut_doorway" alt="Laos-Hmong_village-Pig_in_hut_doorway" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07971-welcoming_pig-rcpsuw-1200x640.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=640" width="1200" height="640" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07971-welcoming_pig-rcpsuw-1200x640.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07971-welcoming_pig-rcpsuw-1200x640.jpg?w=242&amp;h=129 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07971-welcoming_pig-rcpsuw-1200x640.jpg?w=854&amp;h=455 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dsc07971-welcoming_pig-rcpsuw-1200x640.jpg?w=768&amp;h=410 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
63. <p style="text-align:right;"><em>(events Laos 6 Oct 2013)</em></p>
64. <hr />
65. ]]></content:encoded>
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68. <slash:comments>21</slash:comments>
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80. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
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106. </item>
107. <item>
108. <title>Gentle, Laughing, Poor</title>
109. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/11/27/gentle-laughing-poor/</link>
110. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/11/27/gentle-laughing-poor/#comments</comments>
112. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
113. <pubDate>Wed, 27 Nov 2013 12:06:34 +0000</pubDate>
114. <category><![CDATA[Lao Mist]]></category>
115. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
116. <category><![CDATA[Khmu]]></category>
117. <category><![CDATA[Laos]]></category>
118. <category><![CDATA[mountains]]></category>
119. <category><![CDATA[poverty]]></category>
120. <category><![CDATA[villagers]]></category>
121. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=2651</guid>
122.  
123. <description><![CDATA[We pass through stretches of teak, then huge thickets of great bamboo.&#160; There is a mighty uproar of cicadas, making&#8230;]]></description>
124. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align:left;">We pass through stretches of teak, then huge thickets of great bamboo.&nbsp; There is a mighty uproar of cicadas, making it harder to keep a cool head and a steady step.&nbsp; Sheer black walls of mountains to the left ahead.</p>
125. <p style="text-align:left;">Early afternoon we arrive at a Khmu village and stop to rest.&nbsp;&nbsp; It is in the mountains, and at the foot of more mountains.</p>
126. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village_in_mountains.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2647" title="Laos-Khmu_village_in_mountains" alt="Laos-Khmu_village_in_mountains" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village_in_mountains.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=768" width="1200" height="768" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village_in_mountains.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village_in_mountains.jpg?w=211&amp;h=135 211w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village_in_mountains.jpg?w=854&amp;h=547 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village_in_mountains.jpg?w=768&amp;h=492 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
127. <p style="text-align:left;">The Khmu are animist, they pass stories down by the fireside at night, and they grow rice and vegetables in the surrounding forests.&nbsp;&nbsp; At first the children hang back:</p>
128. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-2_little_kids.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2644" title="Laos-Khmu_village-2_little_kids" alt="Laos-Khmu_village-2_little_kids" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-2_little_kids.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=640" width="1200" height="640" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-2_little_kids.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-2_little_kids.jpg?w=242&amp;h=129 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-2_little_kids.jpg?w=854&amp;h=455 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-2_little_kids.jpg?w=768&amp;h=410 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
129. <p style="text-align:left;">But they are not shy and once I hit my head on a beam, fall over something, and then take my boots off to inspect my feet, they gather in to laugh and horse around.</p>
130. <p style="text-align:left;">Adults gather round for a chat.&nbsp; I suspect they <em>also</em> are expecting me to break something.</p>
131. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-talking.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2649" title="Laos-Khmu_village-talking" alt="Laos-Khmu_village-talking" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-talking.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=680" width="1200" height="680" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-talking.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-talking.jpg?w=238&amp;h=135 238w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-talking.jpg?w=854&amp;h=484 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-talking.jpg?w=768&amp;h=435 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
132. <p style="text-align:left;">From where I sit I can see in the kitchen, a mountain kitchen with a dirt floor and not much in the way of utensils:</p>
133. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-kitchen.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2648" title="Laos-Khmu_village-kitchen_with_dirt_floor" alt="Laos-Khmu_village-kitchen_with_dirt_floor" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-kitchen.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=757" width="1200" height="757" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-kitchen.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-kitchen.jpg?w=214&amp;h=135 214w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-kitchen.jpg?w=854&amp;h=539 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-kitchen.jpg?w=768&amp;h=484 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
134. <p style="text-align:left;">As I look at them, I realise how beautiful they are, and how poor.</p>
135. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-girl_in_yellow.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2645" title="Laos-Khmu_village-girl_in_yellow_top" alt="Laos-Khmu_village-girl_in_yellow_top" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-girl_in_yellow.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=749" width="1200" height="749" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-girl_in_yellow.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-girl_in_yellow.jpg?w=216&amp;h=135 216w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-girl_in_yellow.jpg?w=854&amp;h=533 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-girl_in_yellow.jpg?w=768&amp;h=479 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
136. <p style="text-align:left;">This girl&#8217;s face stays with me as I walk:&nbsp; you can see beauty and malnourishment,&nbsp; intelligence and illness.&nbsp; She is a child, she has little, and she asks for nothing:</p>
137. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-girl_in_yellow_red-face.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2646" title="Laos-Khmu_village-girl_in_yellow_top-beautiful_face" alt="Laos-Khmu_village-girl_in_yellow_top-beautiful_face" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-girl_in_yellow_red-face.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-girl_in_yellow_red-face.jpg 600w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-girl_in_yellow_red-face.jpg?w=132&amp;h=135 132w" sizes="(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
138. <p style="text-align:left;">We have to leave, otherwise&nbsp; we will be spending the night in the open.&nbsp; We&nbsp; pass by mountain rice and pumpkin growing beside the track.&nbsp;&nbsp; But then it becomes quite dense, and from here it is all uphill.</p>
139. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos_mountain-overgrown.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2650" title="Laos-Mountains-dense_forest" alt="Laos-Mountains-dense_forest" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos_mountain-overgrown.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=695" width="1200" height="695" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos_mountain-overgrown.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos_mountain-overgrown.jpg?w=233&amp;h=135 233w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos_mountain-overgrown.jpg?w=854&amp;h=495 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos_mountain-overgrown.jpg?w=768&amp;h=445 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
140. <p style="text-align:left;">I am tired, my boots drag, and the girl sits heavy in my heart.</p>
141. <p style="text-align:right;">(events 6 Oct 2013)</p>
142. <hr />
143. ]]></content:encoded>
145. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/11/27/gentle-laughing-poor/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
146. <slash:comments>26</slash:comments>
149. <georss:point>19.856270 102.495496</georss:point>
150. <geo:lat>19.856270</geo:lat>
151. <geo:long>102.495496</geo:long>
152. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-girl_in_yellow_red-1-79.jpg" />
153. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-girl_in_yellow_red-1-79.jpg" medium="image">
154. <media:title type="html">Khmu_village-girl_in_yellow</media:title>
155. </media:content>
156.  
157. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
158. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
159. </media:content>
160.  
161. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village_in_mountains.jpg" medium="image">
162. <media:title type="html">Laos-Khmu_village_in_mountains</media:title>
163. </media:content>
164.  
165. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-2_little_kids.jpg" medium="image">
166. <media:title type="html">Laos-Khmu_village-2_little_kids</media:title>
167. </media:content>
168.  
169. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-talking.jpg" medium="image">
170. <media:title type="html">Laos-Khmu_village-talking</media:title>
171. </media:content>
172.  
173. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-kitchen.jpg" medium="image">
174. <media:title type="html">Laos-Khmu_village-kitchen_with_dirt_floor</media:title>
175. </media:content>
176.  
177. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-girl_in_yellow.jpg" medium="image">
178. <media:title type="html">Laos-Khmu_village-girl_in_yellow_top</media:title>
179. </media:content>
180.  
181. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/khmu_village-girl_in_yellow_red-face.jpg" medium="image">
182. <media:title type="html">Laos-Khmu_village-girl_in_yellow_top-beautiful_face</media:title>
183. </media:content>
184.  
185. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos_mountain-overgrown.jpg" medium="image">
186. <media:title type="html">Laos-Mountains-dense_forest</media:title>
187. </media:content>
188. </item>
189. <item>
190. <title>Dry, Cheerless, Armed</title>
191. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/11/11/dry-cheerless-armed/</link>
192. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/11/11/dry-cheerless-armed/#comments</comments>
194. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
195. <pubDate>Mon, 11 Nov 2013 09:57:27 +0000</pubDate>
196. <category><![CDATA[Lao Mist]]></category>
197. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
198. <category><![CDATA[Laos]]></category>
199. <category><![CDATA[mountains]]></category>
200. <category><![CDATA[travel literature]]></category>
201. <category><![CDATA[travel photography]]></category>
202. <category><![CDATA[trekking]]></category>
203. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=2593</guid>
204.  
205. <description><![CDATA[Laos is mountains.  So I find a guide:  he is dry and cheerless and carries a machete. My brief to&#8230;]]></description>
206. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Laos is mountains.  So I find a guide:  he is dry and cheerless and carries a machete.</p>
207. <p>My brief to him is simple:<br />
208. 1. We go to the top of a mountain<br />
209. 2. We don&#8217;t talk.<br />
210. He may like me already.</p>
211. <p>I take the usual stuff: water, food, knife, sleep bag, mosquito net, medical kit, and enough plaster to cover the human body 11 times. Usually that is enough.</p>
212. <p>We first cross the Nam Oo river. A boatman in a small narrow boat picks us up. The boat sits low in the water and is unstable. I carefully find the best place for my feet and undo my laces just in case.</p>
213. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-namoo-crossing_river-rc-psuw-1200x658.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2590" style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;border:3px solid black;" alt="Laos: crossing the Nam Oo river" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-namoo-crossing_river-rc-psuw-1200x658.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=658" width="1200" height="658" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-namoo-crossing_river-rc-psuw-1200x658.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-namoo-crossing_river-rc-psuw-1200x658.jpg?w=242&amp;h=133 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-namoo-crossing_river-rc-psuw-1200x658.jpg?w=854&amp;h=468 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-namoo-crossing_river-rc-psuw-1200x658.jpg?w=768&amp;h=421 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>We start on a well-worn track, skirting rice-fields and following a stream. Women covered head to foot work the fields in the hot sun.</p>
214. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-mountains-stream-fields-rcp-suw-1200x676.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2589" style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;border:3px solid black;" alt="Laos: mountains- stream and fields" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-mountains-stream-fields-rcp-suw-1200x676.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=676" width="1200" height="676" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-mountains-stream-fields-rcp-suw-1200x676.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-mountains-stream-fields-rcp-suw-1200x676.jpg?w=240&amp;h=135 240w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-mountains-stream-fields-rcp-suw-1200x676.jpg?w=854&amp;h=481 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-mountains-stream-fields-rcp-suw-1200x676.jpg?w=768&amp;h=433 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>The track becomes overgrown and the guide&#8217;s machete comes out.  But it is not much of a machete.  Now the Malagasy, they know about machetes &#8211; probably why they are so cheerful.</p>
215. <p>We follow the stream up a narrow damp valley. I slip in the mud and leeches drop around us. Water drips from my hat as though it is raining, but it turns out to be my own sweat. Raising the tension is the deafening howl of some unearthly insect:</p>
216. <div style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;"><iframe title='VideoPress Video Player' aria-label='VideoPress Video Player' width='860' height='484' src='https://video.wordpress.com/embed/uk7ADkrZ?hd=0&amp;autoPlay=0&amp;permalink=1&amp;loop=0&amp;preloadContent=metadata&amp;muted=0&amp;playsinline=0&amp;controls=1&amp;cover=1' frameborder='0' allowfullscreen  allow='clipboard-write' ></iframe><script src='https://v0.wordpress.com/js/next/videopress-iframe.js?m=1725245713'></script></div>
217. <p>We reach the top of the valley. These are mostly Hmong mountains, and the trail is fringed with head-high mountain rice, corn and the occasional pumpkin:</p>
218. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-mountains-hmong_woman_on_track-rc-psw-534x650.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2588" style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;border:3px solid black;" alt="Laos: hmong woman on mountain track" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-mountains-hmong_woman_on_track-rc-psw-534x650.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-mountains-hmong_woman_on_track-rc-psw-534x650.jpg 534w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-mountains-hmong_woman_on_track-rc-psw-534x650.jpg?w=111&amp;h=135 111w" sizes="(max-width: 534px) 100vw, 534px" /></a>Then in the distance I see the rising of mountains.</p>
219. <p style="text-align:right;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-mountains_ahead-rcp-suw-1200x553.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2587" style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;border:3px solid black;" alt="Laos: mountains ahead" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-mountains_ahead-rcp-suw-1200x553.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=553" width="1200" height="553" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-mountains_ahead-rcp-suw-1200x553.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-mountains_ahead-rcp-suw-1200x553.jpg?w=242&amp;h=112 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-mountains_ahead-rcp-suw-1200x553.jpg?w=854&amp;h=394 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-mountains_ahead-rcp-suw-1200x553.jpg?w=768&amp;h=354 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a><em>(events 6 Oct 2013)</em></p>
220. <hr />
221. <div><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/11/11/dry-cheerless-armed/"><img alt="Laos: Stream in Mountain Valley &#8211; Insect Whine" src="https://videos.files.wordpress.com/uk7ADkrZ/laos-insect_whine-9-1440x1080_scruberthumbnail_0.jpg" width="160" height="120" /></a></div>]]></content:encoded>
223. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/11/11/dry-cheerless-armed/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
224. <slash:comments>12</slash:comments>
227. <georss:point>19.856270 102.495496</georss:point>
228. <geo:lat>19.856270</geo:lat>
229. <geo:long>102.495496</geo:long>
230. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-namoo-crossing_river-rc-psuw-1200x658.jpg" />
231. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-namoo-crossing_river-rc-psuw-1200x658.jpg" medium="image">
232. <media:title type="html">Laos: crossing the Nam Oo river</media:title>
233. </media:content>
234.  
235. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
236. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
237. </media:content>
238.  
239. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-namoo-crossing_river-rc-psuw-1200x658.jpg" medium="image">
240. <media:title type="html">Laos: crossing the Nam Oo river</media:title>
241. </media:content>
242.  
243. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-mountains-stream-fields-rcp-suw-1200x676.jpg" medium="image">
244. <media:title type="html">Laos: mountains- stream and fields</media:title>
245. </media:content>
246.  
247. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-mountains-hmong_woman_on_track-rc-psw-534x650.jpg" medium="image">
248. <media:title type="html">Laos: hmong woman on mountain track</media:title>
249. </media:content>
250.  
251. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/laos-mountains_ahead-rcp-suw-1200x553.jpg" medium="image">
252. <media:title type="html">Laos: mountains ahead</media:title>
253. </media:content>
254.  
255. <media:content width="400" height="225">
256. <media:player url="https://videopress.com/v/uk7ADkrZ" />
257.  
258. <media:rating scheme="urn:mpaa">g</media:rating>
259.  
260. <media:title type="plain">Laos: Stream in Mountain Valley &#8211; Insect Whine</media:title>
261.  
262. <media:thumbnail url="https://videos.files.wordpress.com/uk7ADkrZ/laos-insect_whine-9-1440x1080_scruberthumbnail_0.jpg" width="256" height="144" />
263. </media:content>
264. </item>
265. <item>
266. <title>A Gift of Prophecy</title>
267. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/10/30/a-gift-of-prophecy/</link>
268. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/10/30/a-gift-of-prophecy/#comments</comments>
270. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
271. <pubDate>Wed, 30 Oct 2013 13:23:24 +0000</pubDate>
272. <category><![CDATA[Lao Mist]]></category>
273. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
274. <category><![CDATA[Laos]]></category>
275. <category><![CDATA[Mekong]]></category>
276. <category><![CDATA[travel literature]]></category>
277. <category><![CDATA[travel photography]]></category>
278. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=2565</guid>
279.  
280. <description><![CDATA[Rising in the mountains of Eastern Tibet the Mekong flows through the history of China, Burma and Thailand before bringing&#8230;]]></description>
281. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Rising in the mountains of Eastern Tibet<br />
282. the Mekong flows through the history of China, Burma and Thailand<br />
283. before bringing its ancient currency to Laos.</p>
284. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-mekong_and_mountains-rcp-suw-1200x629.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2562" style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;border:3px solid black;" title="Laos: Mekong river and mountains" alt="Laos: Mekong river and mountains" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-mekong_and_mountains-rcp-suw-1200x629.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=629" width="1200" height="629" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-mekong_and_mountains-rcp-suw-1200x629.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-mekong_and_mountains-rcp-suw-1200x629.jpg?w=242&amp;h=127 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-mekong_and_mountains-rcp-suw-1200x629.jpg?w=854&amp;h=448 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-mekong_and_mountains-rcp-suw-1200x629.jpg?w=768&amp;h=403 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>With the evening<br />
285. a mist comes down between the mountains to the river,<br />
286. like a tide of souls.</p>
287. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-mist_down_mountain-rcp-sw-1200x658b.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2563" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Laos: mist coming down mountain to river" alt="Laos: mist coming down mountain to river" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-mist_down_mountain-rcp-sw-1200x658b.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=658" width="1200" height="658" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-mist_down_mountain-rcp-sw-1200x658b.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-mist_down_mountain-rcp-sw-1200x658b.jpg?w=242&amp;h=133 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-mist_down_mountain-rcp-sw-1200x658b.jpg?w=854&amp;h=468 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-mist_down_mountain-rcp-sw-1200x658b.jpg?w=768&amp;h=421 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>To be born on this bright and muddy river</p>
288. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-girl_in_river-rcp-suw-1200x608.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2560" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Laos: girl playing in river" alt="Laos: girl playing in river" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-girl_in_river-rcp-suw-1200x608.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=608" width="1200" height="608" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-girl_in_river-rcp-suw-1200x608.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-girl_in_river-rcp-suw-1200x608.jpg?w=242&amp;h=123 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-girl_in_river-rcp-suw-1200x608.jpg?w=854&amp;h=433 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-girl_in_river-rcp-suw-1200x608.jpg?w=768&amp;h=389 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>is to be born with the weight of the past at your back.</p>
289. <p style="text-align:right;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-girl-river-mountains-rcp-suw-1200x668.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2561" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Laos: girl,river,mountains" alt="Laos: girl,river,mountains" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-girl-river-mountains-rcp-suw-1200x668.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=668" width="1200" height="668" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-girl-river-mountains-rcp-suw-1200x668.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-girl-river-mountains-rcp-suw-1200x668.jpg?w=242&amp;h=135 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-girl-river-mountains-rcp-suw-1200x668.jpg?w=854&amp;h=475 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-girl-river-mountains-rcp-suw-1200x668.jpg?w=768&amp;h=428 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a><em>(events 4 Oct 2013)</em></p>
290. <hr />
291. ]]></content:encoded>
293. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/10/30/a-gift-of-prophecy/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
294. <slash:comments>20</slash:comments>
297. <georss:point>19.856270 102.495496</georss:point>
298. <geo:lat>19.856270</geo:lat>
299. <geo:long>102.495496</geo:long>
300. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-girl-river-mountains-rcp-suw-1200x668.jpg" />
301. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-girl-river-mountains-rcp-suw-1200x668.jpg" medium="image">
302. <media:title type="html">Laos: girl,river,mountains</media:title>
303. </media:content>
304.  
305. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
306. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
307. </media:content>
308.  
309. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-mekong_and_mountains-rcp-suw-1200x629.jpg" medium="image">
310. <media:title type="html">Laos: Mekong river and mountains</media:title>
311. </media:content>
312.  
313. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-mist_down_mountain-rcp-sw-1200x658b.jpg" medium="image">
314. <media:title type="html">Laos: mist coming down mountain to river</media:title>
315. </media:content>
316.  
317. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-girl_in_river-rcp-suw-1200x608.jpg" medium="image">
318. <media:title type="html">Laos: girl playing in river</media:title>
319. </media:content>
320.  
321. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/laos-girl-river-mountains-rcp-suw-1200x668.jpg" medium="image">
322. <media:title type="html">Laos: girl,river,mountains</media:title>
323. </media:content>
324. </item>
325. <item>
326. <title>Howling of an Ancient Race</title>
327. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/09/25/howling-of-an-ancient-race/</link>
328. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/09/25/howling-of-an-ancient-race/#comments</comments>
330. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
331. <pubDate>Wed, 25 Sep 2013 14:24:55 +0000</pubDate>
332. <category><![CDATA[Madagascar Road]]></category>
333. <category><![CDATA[Shoeless Forest]]></category>
334. <category><![CDATA[Andisibe]]></category>
335. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
336. <category><![CDATA[forest]]></category>
337. <category><![CDATA[Lemurs]]></category>
338. <category><![CDATA[madagascar]]></category>
339. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=2513</guid>
340.  
341. <description><![CDATA[Walking through a forest in Madagascar, I am a guest of an ancient race. These gentle fellows, ancient relatives of&#8230;]]></description>
342. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Walking through a forest in Madagascar, I am a guest of an ancient race. These gentle fellows, ancient relatives of ours, call each other across the roof of the forest.</p>
343. <p>Turn up the volume to listen.</p>
344. <p><iframe title='VideoPress Video Player' aria-label='VideoPress Video Player' width='860' height='483' src='https://video.wordpress.com/embed/4AOnqwDK?hd=0&amp;autoPlay=0&amp;permalink=1&amp;loop=0&amp;preloadContent=metadata&amp;muted=0&amp;playsinline=0&amp;controls=1&amp;cover=1' frameborder='0' allowfullscreen  allow='clipboard-write' ></iframe><script src='https://v0.wordpress.com/js/next/videopress-iframe.js?m=1725245713'></script><span style="color:#ffffff;">.</span></p>
345. <p>These are from May last year, so out of sequence, but one of my eccentric brothers thought they ought to be on the blog.  Of course, listening to my brothers has never done me any good in the past.</p>
346. <p style="text-align:right;">(events 120525)</p>
347. <hr />
348. <div><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/09/25/howling-of-an-ancient-race/"><img alt="Madagascar-Andisibe-Forest-Lemurs_Calling  (854&#215;480)" src="https://videos.files.wordpress.com/4AOnqwDK/lemurs-calling-3-854x480_scruberthumbnail_1.jpg" width="160" height="120" /></a></div>]]></content:encoded>
350. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/09/25/howling-of-an-ancient-race/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
351. <slash:comments>6</slash:comments>
354. <georss:point>-16.916667 47.716667</georss:point>
355. <geo:lat>-16.916667</geo:lat>
356. <geo:long>47.716667</geo:long>
357. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/lemur-blktanwhite-rcpsuw-1200x670.jpg" />
358. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/lemur-blktanwhite-rcpsuw-1200x670.jpg" medium="image">
359. <media:title type="html">Madagascar-Andisibe-Lemur_in_Tree  (1200x670)</media:title>
360. </media:content>
361.  
362. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
363. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
364. </media:content>
365.  
366. <media:content width="400" height="224">
367. <media:player url="https://videopress.com/v/4AOnqwDK" />
368.  
369. <media:rating scheme="urn:mpaa">g</media:rating>
370.  
371. <media:title type="plain">Madagascar-Andisibe-Forest-Lemurs_Calling  (854&#215;480)</media:title>
372.  
373. <media:thumbnail url="https://videos.files.wordpress.com/4AOnqwDK/lemurs-calling-3-854x480_scruberthumbnail_1.jpg" width="256" height="143" />
374.  
375. <media:description type="plain">Madagascar - Andisibe - Forest - Lemurs Calling</media:description>
376. </media:content>
377. </item>
378. <item>
379. <title>Women Give Me Soap</title>
380. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/09/13/women-give-me-soap/</link>
381. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/09/13/women-give-me-soap/#comments</comments>
383. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
384. <pubDate>Fri, 13 Sep 2013 08:54:16 +0000</pubDate>
385. <category><![CDATA[Estonian Moonrise]]></category>
386. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
387. <category><![CDATA[Estonia]]></category>
388. <category><![CDATA[travel literature]]></category>
389. <category><![CDATA[travel photography]]></category>
390. <category><![CDATA[walking]]></category>
391. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=2483</guid>
392.  
393. <description><![CDATA[My b&#38;b is a quiet wood place amid a mass of flowering apple trees: My room is big enough to&#8230;]]></description>
394. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My b&amp;b is a quiet wood place amid a mass of flowering apple trees:</p>
395. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07354-my_room-rcp-suw-1200x662.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2477" style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;border:3px solid black;" title="Estonia - Otepää - wood hostel - Apple Blossoms in yard" alt="Estonia - Otepää - wood hostel - Apple Blossoms in yard" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07354-my_room-rcp-suw-1200x662.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=662" width="1200" height="662" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07354-my_room-rcp-suw-1200x662.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07354-my_room-rcp-suw-1200x662.jpg?w=242&amp;h=135 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07354-my_room-rcp-suw-1200x662.jpg?w=854&amp;h=471 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07354-my_room-rcp-suw-1200x662.jpg?w=768&amp;h=424 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
396. <p style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:10px;">My room is big enough to get a cow in but not turn it around.  I ask the landlady about the soap.</p>
397. <p style="padding-left:30px;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:10px;">&#8220;No soap.  Guests bring own soap.&#8221;</p>
398. <p style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:10px;">I worry about what kind of guests she usually has:</p>
399. <p style="padding-left:30px;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:10px;">&#8220;Do all your guests carry around soap?&#8221;</p>
400. <p style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:10px;">She sniffs the air slightly:</p>
401. <p style="padding-left:30px;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:10px;">&#8220;Of course.&#8221;</p>
402. <p style="margin-top:0;">Somewhere, I own at least 8 gray suits and 16 crisp white cotton shirts.  But the woman looks at me doubtfully and gives me soap.</p>
403. <p>Nearby gardens, unkempt in the style of Monet, rife with tulips:</p>
404. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07341-monet_garden-rcpsuw-1200x634.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2507" style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;border:3px solid black;" title="Estonia - Otepää - Monet's Garden" alt="Estonia - Otepää - Monet's Garden" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07341-monet_garden-rcpsuw-1200x634.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=634" width="1200" height="634" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07341-monet_garden-rcpsuw-1200x634.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07341-monet_garden-rcpsuw-1200x634.jpg?w=242&amp;h=128 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07341-monet_garden-rcpsuw-1200x634.jpg?w=854&amp;h=451 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07341-monet_garden-rcpsuw-1200x634.jpg?w=768&amp;h=406 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>I head out for lunch along worn but neat roads.  Working men pass me quietly on old bicycles:</p>
405. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07441-green_house-r-psuw-1200x612.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2500" style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;border:3px solid black;" title="Estonia - Otepää - old road - green house" alt="Estonia - Otepää - old road - green house" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07441-green_house-r-psuw-1200x612.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=612" width="1200" height="612" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07441-green_house-r-psuw-1200x612.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07441-green_house-r-psuw-1200x612.jpg?w=242&amp;h=123 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07441-green_house-r-psuw-1200x612.jpg?w=854&amp;h=436 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07441-green_house-r-psuw-1200x612.jpg?w=768&amp;h=392 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>I stop under a tree for a lunch of bread and cheese, and an apple.  I am joined by frogs, cruising waterbirds and a cool breeze:</p>
406. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07400-small_lake-rc-psuw-1200x679.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2479" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia - Otepää - lake with pine trees" alt="Estonia - Otepää - lake with pine trees" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07400-small_lake-rc-psuw-1200x679.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=679" width="1200" height="679" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07400-small_lake-rc-psuw-1200x679.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07400-small_lake-rc-psuw-1200x679.jpg?w=239&amp;h=135 239w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07400-small_lake-rc-psuw-1200x679.jpg?w=854&amp;h=483 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07400-small_lake-rc-psuw-1200x679.jpg?w=768&amp;h=435 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>I walk till evening.  Tall thick forest everywhere I look; 21:00 and still light.</p>
407. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07429-farm_in_the_forest-rc-psuw-1200x689.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2481" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia - Otepää - forest - farm" alt="Estonia - Otepää - forest - farm" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07429-farm_in_the_forest-rc-psuw-1200x689.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=689" width="1200" height="689" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07429-farm_in_the_forest-rc-psuw-1200x689.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07429-farm_in_the_forest-rc-psuw-1200x689.jpg?w=235&amp;h=135 235w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07429-farm_in_the_forest-rc-psuw-1200x689.jpg?w=854&amp;h=490 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07429-farm_in_the_forest-rc-psuw-1200x689.jpg?w=768&amp;h=441 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>A clear, bird-chorused evening: cool, green and wet.  22:00, and a long sunset barely makes it through the trees:</p>
408. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07412-white_garden-2-rc-suw-1200x6241.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2484" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia - Otepää - Evening Garden with white flowers" alt="Estonia - Otepää - Evening Garden with white flowers" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07412-white_garden-2-rc-suw-1200x6241.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=624" width="1200" height="624" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07412-white_garden-2-rc-suw-1200x6241.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07412-white_garden-2-rc-suw-1200x6241.jpg?w=242&amp;h=126 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07412-white_garden-2-rc-suw-1200x6241.jpg?w=854&amp;h=444 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07412-white_garden-2-rc-suw-1200x6241.jpg?w=768&amp;h=399 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>Twilight.  Cuckoos call among the dark pines.  A transparent Estonian moon offers evensong.</p>
409. <p style="text-align:right;"><em>(events 19 May 2013)</em></p>
410. <hr />
411. ]]></content:encoded>
413. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/09/13/women-give-me-soap/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
414. <slash:comments>9</slash:comments>
417. <georss:point>58.058048 26.494752</georss:point>
418. <geo:lat>58.058048</geo:lat>
419. <geo:long>26.494752</geo:long>
420. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07354-my_room-rcp-suw-1200x662.jpg" />
421. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07354-my_room-rcp-suw-1200x662.jpg" medium="image">
422. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Otepää - wood hostel - Apple Blossoms in yard  (1200x662)</media:title>
423. </media:content>
424.  
425. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
426. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
427. </media:content>
428.  
429. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07354-my_room-rcp-suw-1200x662.jpg" medium="image">
430. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Otepää - wood hostel - Apple Blossoms in yard</media:title>
431. </media:content>
432.  
433. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07341-monet_garden-rcpsuw-1200x634.jpg" medium="image">
434. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Otepää - Monet&#039;s Garden</media:title>
435. </media:content>
436.  
437. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07441-green_house-r-psuw-1200x612.jpg" medium="image">
438. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Otepää - old road - green house</media:title>
439. </media:content>
440.  
441. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07400-small_lake-rc-psuw-1200x679.jpg" medium="image">
442. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Otepää - lake with pine trees</media:title>
443. </media:content>
444.  
445. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07429-farm_in_the_forest-rc-psuw-1200x689.jpg" medium="image">
446. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Otepää - forest - farm</media:title>
447. </media:content>
448.  
449. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07412-white_garden-2-rc-suw-1200x6241.jpg" medium="image">
450. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Otepää - Evening Garden with white flowers</media:title>
451. </media:content>
452. </item>
453. <item>
454. <title>Handy Place for a Harem</title>
455. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/09/08/handy-place-for-a-harem/</link>
456. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/09/08/handy-place-for-a-harem/#comments</comments>
458. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
459. <pubDate>Sun, 08 Sep 2013 03:52:13 +0000</pubDate>
460. <category><![CDATA[Estonian Moonrise]]></category>
461. <category><![CDATA[countryside]]></category>
462. <category><![CDATA[Estonia]]></category>
463. <category><![CDATA[hamlet]]></category>
464. <category><![CDATA[Otepää]]></category>
465. <category><![CDATA[travel literature]]></category>
466. <category><![CDATA[walking]]></category>
467. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=2458</guid>
468.  
469. <description><![CDATA[I board an early morning train to Puka.&#160; No Estonian seems to have heard of it, especially the sceptical lady&#8230;]]></description>
470. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I board an early morning train to Puka.&nbsp; No Estonian seems to have heard of it, especially the sceptical lady at the ticket counter.&nbsp; But it is on the map and I show it to her.</p>
471. <p>We pass through a deep fog, mist on the windows.&nbsp; Outside, empty fields, some abandoned; wells with hand pumps.</p>
472. <p>At Puka the sun is now out, and I get off for what should be a 20km walk to Otepää.&nbsp; Puka is what is known in fairytales as a hamlet, so big chestnut trees, piles of wood, but no food and nowhere for a traveller to sleep:</p>
473. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07294-puka_road-rcp-suw-1200x602.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2453" style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;border:3px solid black;" title="Estonia - Road to Otepaa - Puka Hamlet" alt="Estonia - Road to Otepaa - Puka Hamlet" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07294-puka_road-rcp-suw-1200x602.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=602" width="1200" height="602" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07294-puka_road-rcp-suw-1200x602.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07294-puka_road-rcp-suw-1200x602.jpg?w=242&amp;h=121 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07294-puka_road-rcp-suw-1200x602.jpg?w=854&amp;h=428 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07294-puka_road-rcp-suw-1200x602.jpg?w=768&amp;h=385 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>It is however very, very green:</p>
474. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07307-house_in_green-rcp-suw-1200x509.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2454" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia - Road to Otepaa - Puka - fields of green" alt="Estonia - Road to Otepaa - Puka - fields of green" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07307-house_in_green-rcp-suw-1200x509.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=509" width="1200" height="509" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07307-house_in_green-rcp-suw-1200x509.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07307-house_in_green-rcp-suw-1200x509.jpg?w=242&amp;h=103 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07307-house_in_green-rcp-suw-1200x509.jpg?w=854&amp;h=362 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07307-house_in_green-rcp-suw-1200x509.jpg?w=768&amp;h=326 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>I walk past huge armies of big fat daffodils, biding their time for when the planet will be theirs:</p>
475. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07312-fields_of_yellow-rcp-suw-1200x545.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2455" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia - Road to Otepää - fields of daffodils" alt="Estonia - Road to Otepää - fields of daffodils" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07312-fields_of_yellow-rcp-suw-1200x545.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=545" width="1200" height="545" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07312-fields_of_yellow-rcp-suw-1200x545.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07312-fields_of_yellow-rcp-suw-1200x545.jpg?w=242&amp;h=110 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07312-fields_of_yellow-rcp-suw-1200x545.jpg?w=854&amp;h=388 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07312-fields_of_yellow-rcp-suw-1200x545.jpg?w=768&amp;h=349 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>By the road are also lots of those &#8220;She loves me / She loves me not&#8221; flowers.&nbsp; A handy place for a chap with a harem and decisions to make.</p>
476. <p>The road on Google maps is a now thin gray line that occasionally disappears.&nbsp; I pass old farmhouses with stone walls, wooden barns.</p>
477. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07453-farmhouse_on_road-rcp-suw-1200x632.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2457" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia - Road to Otepaa - farmhouse" alt="Estonia - Road to Otepaa - farmhouse" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07453-farmhouse_on_road-rcp-suw-1200x632.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=632" width="1200" height="632" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07453-farmhouse_on_road-rcp-suw-1200x632.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07453-farmhouse_on_road-rcp-suw-1200x632.jpg?w=242&amp;h=127 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07453-farmhouse_on_road-rcp-suw-1200x632.jpg?w=854&amp;h=450 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07453-farmhouse_on_road-rcp-suw-1200x632.jpg?w=768&amp;h=404 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>The road then narrows, the forest closes in.&nbsp; A riot of birdsong.&nbsp; I have done 25km of a 20km route, and am nowhere in sight of anything.&nbsp; Have taken a wrong turn somewhere.&nbsp; The Google maps satellite appears to be pointed at Mars.&nbsp; It is hotter than I thought, I have run out of water, and am now very thirsty.</p>
478. <p>But this is a friendly land.&nbsp; Five more&nbsp; kilometres and I meet a man working his fields.&nbsp; He gives me a deep drink and refills my containers.&nbsp; But, in the reserved manner of Estonians, shows no curiosity as to why I am in the middle of rural nowhere, walking, and with no water.</p>
479. <p>Another 6km, and there is a lake on the left, and a lake on the right.&nbsp; Pines, firs, super green grass.&nbsp; Nesting storks.&nbsp; Evening.&nbsp; Otepää.</p>
480. <p style="text-align:right;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07428-otepaa_road-sunset-rcp-suw-1200x664.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2456" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia - Otepää - sunset on a street" alt="Estonia - Otepää - sunset on a street" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07428-otepaa_road-sunset-rcp-suw-1200x664.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=664" width="1200" height="664" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07428-otepaa_road-sunset-rcp-suw-1200x664.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07428-otepaa_road-sunset-rcp-suw-1200x664.jpg?w=242&amp;h=135 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07428-otepaa_road-sunset-rcp-suw-1200x664.jpg?w=854&amp;h=473 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07428-otepaa_road-sunset-rcp-suw-1200x664.jpg?w=768&amp;h=425 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a><em>(events 18 May 2013)</em></p>
481. <hr />
482. ]]></content:encoded>
484. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/09/08/handy-place-for-a-harem/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
485. <slash:comments>20</slash:comments>
488. <georss:point>58.058048 26.494752</georss:point>
489. <geo:lat>58.058048</geo:lat>
490. <geo:long>26.494752</geo:long>
491. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07428-otepaa_road-sunset-rcp-suw-1200x664.jpg" />
492. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07428-otepaa_road-sunset-rcp-suw-1200x664.jpg" medium="image">
493. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Otepää - sunset on a street (1200x664)</media:title>
494. </media:content>
495.  
496. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
497. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
498. </media:content>
499.  
500. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07294-puka_road-rcp-suw-1200x602.jpg" medium="image">
501. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Road to Otepaa - Puka Hamlet</media:title>
502. </media:content>
503.  
504. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07307-house_in_green-rcp-suw-1200x509.jpg" medium="image">
505. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Road to Otepaa - Puka - fields of green</media:title>
506. </media:content>
507.  
508. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07312-fields_of_yellow-rcp-suw-1200x545.jpg" medium="image">
509. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Road to Otepää - fields of daffodils</media:title>
510. </media:content>
511.  
512. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07453-farmhouse_on_road-rcp-suw-1200x632.jpg" medium="image">
513. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Road to Otepaa - farmhouse</media:title>
514. </media:content>
515.  
516. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/dsc07428-otepaa_road-sunset-rcp-suw-1200x664.jpg" medium="image">
517. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Otepää - sunset on a street</media:title>
518. </media:content>
519. </item>
520. <item>
521. <title>Leaving No Shadow</title>
522. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/08/29/leaving-no-shadow/</link>
523. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/08/29/leaving-no-shadow/#comments</comments>
525. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
526. <pubDate>Thu, 29 Aug 2013 12:35:18 +0000</pubDate>
527. <category><![CDATA[Estonian Moonrise]]></category>
528. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
529. <category><![CDATA[Estonia]]></category>
530. <category><![CDATA[Suure-Jaani]]></category>
531. <category><![CDATA[travel literature]]></category>
532. <category><![CDATA[walking]]></category>
533. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=2435</guid>
534.  
535. <description><![CDATA[I take the early morning train to Võhma (€1.06). An old town, chimneys, market gardens, small greenhouses. Men in cloth&#8230;]]></description>
536. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I take the early morning train to Võhma (€1.06). An old town, chimneys, market gardens, small greenhouses. Men in cloth caps on bicycles. The only shop I find sells fertilizer and shovels. No breakfast for me.</p>
537. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07204-child_on_swing-rcp-suw-1200x661.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2431" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia, Suure-Jaani: Child on Swing" alt="Estonia, Suure-Jaani: Child on Swing" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07204-child_on_swing-rcp-suw-1200x661.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=661" width="1200" height="661" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07204-child_on_swing-rcp-suw-1200x661.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07204-child_on_swing-rcp-suw-1200x661.jpg?w=242&amp;h=133 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07204-child_on_swing-rcp-suw-1200x661.jpg?w=854&amp;h=470 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07204-child_on_swing-rcp-suw-1200x661.jpg?w=768&amp;h=423 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>I set out on the 22km walk to Suure-Jaani. Cross the Navesti river. An old grain processing plant on right, a stone warehouse on the left. This is flat, glacial land, fields greening, surrounded by walls of pine and birch. Wood farmhouses open to the welcome sun.</p>
538. <p>Late afternoon I arrive at Suure-Jaani, pop about 1,000. My guesthouse is on the river opposite the church.</p>
539. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07174-surre_jaani-church_on_lake-rp-suw-1200x679.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2429" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia, Suure-Jaani: Church on Lake" alt="Estonia, Suure-Jaani: Church on Lake" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07174-surre_jaani-church_on_lake-rp-suw-1200x679.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=679" width="1200" height="679" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07174-surre_jaani-church_on_lake-rp-suw-1200x679.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07174-surre_jaani-church_on_lake-rp-suw-1200x679.jpg?w=239&amp;h=135 239w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07174-surre_jaani-church_on_lake-rp-suw-1200x679.jpg?w=854&amp;h=483 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07174-surre_jaani-church_on_lake-rp-suw-1200x679.jpg?w=768&amp;h=435 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>Above the church, a cemetery; graves topped with soil, not sealed.  They don&#8217;t leave picked flowers here, they plant them.  Color everywhere, birdsong.  Resting among the trees:</p>
540. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07187-planted_flowers-rcp-su-1200x676.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2430" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia, Suure-Jaani: Graves with Flowers" alt="Estonia, Suure-Jaani: Graves with Flowers" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07187-planted_flowers-rcp-su-1200x676.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=676" width="1200" height="676" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07187-planted_flowers-rcp-su-1200x676.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07187-planted_flowers-rcp-su-1200x676.jpg?w=240&amp;h=135 240w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07187-planted_flowers-rcp-su-1200x676.jpg?w=854&amp;h=481 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07187-planted_flowers-rcp-su-1200x676.jpg?w=768&amp;h=433 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>Folks in twos and threes, planting, raking.  Many graves are of people born around the same time as me, buried 5 years ago, being raked.</p>
541. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07232-lake_gazebo-rcp-suw-1200x728.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2433" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia, Suure-Jaani: Gazebo on Lake" alt="Estonia, Suure-Jaani: Gazebo on Lake" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07232-lake_gazebo-rcp-suw-1200x728.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=728" width="1200" height="728" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07232-lake_gazebo-rcp-suw-1200x728.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07232-lake_gazebo-rcp-suw-1200x728.jpg?w=223&amp;h=135 223w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07232-lake_gazebo-rcp-suw-1200x728.jpg?w=854&amp;h=518 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07232-lake_gazebo-rcp-suw-1200x728.jpg?w=768&amp;h=466 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>Two kids flash past on bicycles, leaving hardly an image:</p>
542. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07240-2kids_flash_past-rcp-suw-1200x607.jpg" target="_blank"><img class="aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia, Suure-Jaani: 2 Kids on Bikes Flash Past" alt="Estonia, Suure-Jaani: 2 Kids on Bikes Flash Past" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07240-2kids_flash_past-rcp-suw-1200x607.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=607" width="1200" height="607" /></a>And evening houses reflect in the lake, ephemeral, against a long empty sky:</p>
543. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07224-reflection-rcp-suw-1200x715.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2432" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia, Suure-Jaani: Evening Reflections on Lake" alt="Estonia, Suure-Jaani: Evening Reflections on Lake" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07224-reflection-rcp-suw-1200x715.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=715" width="1200" height="715" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07224-reflection-rcp-suw-1200x715.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07224-reflection-rcp-suw-1200x715.jpg?w=227&amp;h=135 227w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07224-reflection-rcp-suw-1200x715.jpg?w=854&amp;h=509 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07224-reflection-rcp-suw-1200x715.jpg?w=768&amp;h=458 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
544. <p style="text-align:right;"><em>(events 3 May 2013)</em></p>
545. <hr />
546. ]]></content:encoded>
548. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/08/29/leaving-no-shadow/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
549. <slash:comments>16</slash:comments>
552. <georss:point>58.535502 25.466682</georss:point>
553. <geo:lat>58.535502</geo:lat>
554. <geo:long>25.466682</geo:long>
555. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07224-reflection-rcp-suw-1200x715.jpg" />
556. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07224-reflection-rcp-suw-1200x715.jpg" medium="image">
557. <media:title type="html">Estonia, Suure-Jaani: Evening Reflections on Lake  (1200x715)</media:title>
558. </media:content>
559.  
560. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
561. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
562. </media:content>
563.  
564. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07204-child_on_swing-rcp-suw-1200x661.jpg" medium="image">
565. <media:title type="html">Estonia, Suure-Jaani: Child on Swing</media:title>
566. </media:content>
567.  
568. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07174-surre_jaani-church_on_lake-rp-suw-1200x679.jpg" medium="image">
569. <media:title type="html">Estonia, Suure-Jaani: Church on Lake</media:title>
570. </media:content>
571.  
572. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07187-planted_flowers-rcp-su-1200x676.jpg" medium="image">
573. <media:title type="html">Estonia, Suure-Jaani: Graves with Flowers</media:title>
574. </media:content>
575.  
576. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07232-lake_gazebo-rcp-suw-1200x728.jpg" medium="image">
577. <media:title type="html">Estonia, Suure-Jaani: Gazebo on Lake</media:title>
578. </media:content>
579.  
580. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07240-2kids_flash_past-rcp-suw-1200x607.jpg" medium="image">
581. <media:title type="html">Estonia, Suure-Jaani: 2 Kids on Bikes Flash Past</media:title>
582. </media:content>
583.  
584. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07224-reflection-rcp-suw-1200x715.jpg" medium="image">
585. <media:title type="html">Estonia, Suure-Jaani: Evening Reflections on Lake</media:title>
586. </media:content>
587. </item>
588. <item>
589. <title>Time for Old Women</title>
590. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/08/12/time-for-old-women/</link>
591. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/08/12/time-for-old-women/#comments</comments>
593. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
594. <pubDate>Mon, 12 Aug 2013 04:55:34 +0000</pubDate>
595. <category><![CDATA[Estonian Moonrise]]></category>
596. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
597. <category><![CDATA[Cemetery]]></category>
598. <category><![CDATA[Estonia]]></category>
599. <category><![CDATA[long walking]]></category>
600. <category><![CDATA[on the road]]></category>
601. <category><![CDATA[Paide]]></category>
602. <category><![CDATA[serious travel]]></category>
603. <category><![CDATA[travel literature]]></category>
604. <category><![CDATA[turi]]></category>
605. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=2368</guid>
606.  
607. <description><![CDATA[Early evening.&#160; I persuade a friendly Estonian officer who owns a kebab house to make me a fishburger.&#160; This being&#8230;]]></description>
608. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Early evening.&nbsp; I persuade a friendly Estonian officer who owns a kebab house to make me a fishburger.&nbsp; This being Estonia, there will always be a hunk of salmon lying around somewhere. This man has served in Afghanistan and in Africa, and will again.&nbsp; He takes me through his numbers: he has risked everything on this Kebab place, over a hundred km from his home.</p>
609. <p>The economy of Estonia is not great.&nbsp; So risking his life to earn some money, then risking that money on a remote venture, is the only way he sees of escape.&nbsp; His restaurant is on the corner of this street.&nbsp; I like him, and would not want to live in his shoes.</p>
610. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07121-turi-sunset-rcpsuw-1200x523.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2365" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia - Turi: sun setting on street" alt="Estonia - Turi: sun setting on street" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07121-turi-sunset-rcpsuw-1200x523.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=523" width="1200" height="523" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07121-turi-sunset-rcpsuw-1200x523.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07121-turi-sunset-rcpsuw-1200x523.jpg?w=242&amp;h=105 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07121-turi-sunset-rcpsuw-1200x523.jpg?w=854&amp;h=372 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07121-turi-sunset-rcpsuw-1200x523.jpg?w=768&amp;h=335 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
611. <p>I pass an old cemetery marked by crumbling stone crosses covered in lichen.&nbsp; But there are also many rusting metal crosses carrying no names.&nbsp; I guess something bad happened here once.&nbsp; And if you read the history of Estonia, and the long oppression of its people, there is no shortage of candidates.</p>
612. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07147-turi_cemetary-few_names-rcpsuw-430x588.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-2422 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia - Turi: Cemetery without names" alt="Estonia - Turi: Cemetery without names" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07147-turi_cemetary-few_names-rcpsuw-430x588.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07147-turi_cemetary-few_names-rcpsuw-430x588.jpg 430w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07147-turi_cemetary-few_names-rcpsuw-430x588.jpg?w=99&amp;h=135 99w" sizes="(max-width: 430px) 100vw, 430px" /></a></p>
613. <p>Before bed I drop in and ask the landlady about my planned next stop: Vohma.&nbsp; I say I will walk there tomorrow.&nbsp; She looks at me and talks slowly and carefully:</p>
614. <blockquote><p>&#8220;Vohma small place, only have cows&#8230; &amp; pigs.</p>
615. <p>&#8230;You understand?&#8221;</p></blockquote>
616. <p style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;">She has come to the conclusion that I am not very bright.</p>
617. <hr />
618. <p style="text-align:left;margin-top:20px;margin-bottom:20px;">Next morning a transparent half-moon in a cold blue sky.&nbsp; Pine trees.&nbsp; Old women walking bicycles, sweeping steps.&nbsp; Early morning is a time for old women.</p>
619. <p style="text-align:left;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07126-turi-shadows-rcpsuw-1200x564.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2366" style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;border:3px solid black;" title="Estonia - Turi: sun shadows" alt="Estonia - Turi: sun shadows" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07126-turi-shadows-rcpsuw-1200x564.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=564" width="1200" height="564" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07126-turi-shadows-rcpsuw-1200x564.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07126-turi-shadows-rcpsuw-1200x564.jpg?w=242&amp;h=114 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07126-turi-shadows-rcpsuw-1200x564.jpg?w=854&amp;h=401 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07126-turi-shadows-rcpsuw-1200x564.jpg?w=768&amp;h=361 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>And a cool time for walking.</p>
620. <p style="text-align:right;"><em>(events 2 May 2013)</em></p>
621. <hr />
622. ]]></content:encoded>
624. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/08/12/time-for-old-women/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
625. <slash:comments>18</slash:comments>
628. <georss:point>58.807924 25.428707</georss:point>
629. <geo:lat>58.807924</geo:lat>
630. <geo:long>25.428707</geo:long>
631. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07126-turi-shadows-rcpsuw-1200x564.jpg" />
632. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07126-turi-shadows-rcpsuw-1200x564.jpg" medium="image">
633. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Turi: sun shadows  (1200x564)</media:title>
634. </media:content>
635.  
636. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
637. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
638. </media:content>
639.  
640. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07121-turi-sunset-rcpsuw-1200x523.jpg" medium="image">
641. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Turi: sun setting on street</media:title>
642. </media:content>
643.  
644. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07147-turi_cemetary-few_names-rcpsuw-430x588.jpg" medium="image">
645. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Turi: Cemetery without names</media:title>
646. </media:content>
647.  
648. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/dsc07126-turi-shadows-rcpsuw-1200x564.jpg" medium="image">
649. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Turi: sun shadows</media:title>
650. </media:content>
651. </item>
652. <item>
653. <title>Looking Penniless</title>
654. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/07/28/looking-penniless/</link>
655. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/07/28/looking-penniless/#comments</comments>
657. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
658. <pubDate>Sun, 28 Jul 2013 12:09:09 +0000</pubDate>
659. <category><![CDATA[Estonian Moonrise]]></category>
660. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
661. <category><![CDATA[Cemetery]]></category>
662. <category><![CDATA[Estonia]]></category>
663. <category><![CDATA[long walking]]></category>
664. <category><![CDATA[on the road]]></category>
665. <category><![CDATA[Paide]]></category>
666. <category><![CDATA[serious travel]]></category>
667. <category><![CDATA[travel literature]]></category>
668. <category><![CDATA[turi]]></category>
669. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=2336</guid>
670.  
671. <description><![CDATA[The town square of Paide (pronounced  bp-aii-de) has a church on one side, a town hall on the other and&#8230;]]></description>
672. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The town square of Paide (pronounced  bp-aii-de) has a church on one side, a town hall on the other and a small park in the middle. People are out for spring; there is a fire truck, local boys eyeing local girls and little kids in funny costumes.</p>
673. <p>But the only restaurant is closed, so I keep walking. Moss grows on the roofs of wood houses:</p>
674. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07091-moss_on_roof-yellow-rcpsuw-1200x904.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2331" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia, Paide: Moss Growing on Roof of Wood House" alt="Estonia, Paide: Moss Growing on Roof of Wood House" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07091-moss_on_roof-yellow-rcpsuw-1200x904.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=904" width="1200" height="904" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07091-moss_on_roof-yellow-rcpsuw-1200x904.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07091-moss_on_roof-yellow-rcpsuw-1200x904.jpg?w=179&amp;h=135 179w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07091-moss_on_roof-yellow-rcpsuw-1200x904.jpg?w=854&amp;h=643 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07091-moss_on_roof-yellow-rcpsuw-1200x904.jpg?w=768&amp;h=579 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
675. <p>There is the smell of pine trees and wood-smoke. This is roughly the centre of Estonia.  Life is old but cosy:</p>
676. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07083-moss_on_roof-green_house-rcpsuw-1200x782.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2330" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia, Paide: Cosy Old Wood House" alt="Estonia, Paide: Cosy Old Wood House" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07083-moss_on_roof-green_house-rcpsuw-1200x782.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=782" width="1200" height="782" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07083-moss_on_roof-green_house-rcpsuw-1200x782.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07083-moss_on_roof-green_house-rcpsuw-1200x782.jpg?w=207&amp;h=135 207w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07083-moss_on_roof-green_house-rcpsuw-1200x782.jpg?w=854&amp;h=557 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07083-moss_on_roof-green_house-rcpsuw-1200x782.jpg?w=768&amp;h=500 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
677. <p>Today I want to reach Turi (dt-oo-ri), 13km. I pass the cemetery of Reopalu, sitting quietly amid tall trees. Its stone walls are covered in moss.  There is a small stone chapel with a bell. The first grave here is dated 1774:</p>
678. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07101-cemetary_of_reopalu-rcpsuw-1200x720.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2332" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia, Paide - Reopalu Cemetery" alt="Estonia, Paide - Reopalu Cemetery" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07101-cemetary_of_reopalu-rcpsuw-1200x720.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=720" width="1200" height="720" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07101-cemetary_of_reopalu-rcpsuw-1200x720.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07101-cemetary_of_reopalu-rcpsuw-1200x720.jpg?w=225&amp;h=135 225w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07101-cemetary_of_reopalu-rcpsuw-1200x720.jpg?w=854&amp;h=512 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07101-cemetary_of_reopalu-rcpsuw-1200x720.jpg?w=768&amp;h=461 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
679. <p>An old woman in a big coat walks amid her memories.  My heart walks with her a moment.  A worker trims bushes. Pink, red, purple, blue flowers grow on many plots:</p>
680. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07105-blue_flowers_at_reopalu-1-rcpsuw-1200x646.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2333" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia, Paide - Reopalu Cemetery - flowers, fence" alt="Estonia, Paide - Reopalu Cemetery - flowers, fence" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07105-blue_flowers_at_reopalu-1-rcpsuw-1200x646.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=646" width="1200" height="646" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07105-blue_flowers_at_reopalu-1-rcpsuw-1200x646.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07105-blue_flowers_at_reopalu-1-rcpsuw-1200x646.jpg?w=242&amp;h=130 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07105-blue_flowers_at_reopalu-1-rcpsuw-1200x646.jpg?w=854&amp;h=460 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07105-blue_flowers_at_reopalu-1-rcpsuw-1200x646.jpg?w=768&amp;h=413 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
681. <p>I walk under a blue sky, in a carpet of blue flowers. I try not to walk on them, but it <em>is</em> spring and they gather about my feet:</p>
682. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07108-blue_flowers_at_reopalu-2-rcpsuw-1200x694.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2334" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia, Paide - Reopalu Cemetery - carpet of blue flowers" alt="Estonia, Paide - Reopalu Cemetery - carpet of blue flowers" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07108-blue_flowers_at_reopalu-2-rcpsuw-1200x694.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=694" width="1200" height="694" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07108-blue_flowers_at_reopalu-2-rcpsuw-1200x694.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07108-blue_flowers_at_reopalu-2-rcpsuw-1200x694.jpg?w=233&amp;h=135 233w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07108-blue_flowers_at_reopalu-2-rcpsuw-1200x694.jpg?w=854&amp;h=494 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07108-blue_flowers_at_reopalu-2-rcpsuw-1200x694.jpg?w=768&amp;h=444 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
683. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07118-stork_nesting-rcpsuw-400x558.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-2335 alignright" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia, Road to Turi - Stork Nesting" alt="Estonia, Road to Turi - Stork Nesting" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07118-stork_nesting-rcpsuw-400x558.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07118-stork_nesting-rcpsuw-400x558.jpg 400w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07118-stork_nesting-rcpsuw-400x558.jpg?w=97&amp;h=135 97w" sizes="(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px" /></a>I pass signs telling me that there will be Mooses Crossing Next 5 km. I hope these half-tonne hormone-barrels don&#8217;t find me attractive. An idiot in a bright blue jacket passes me on a bicycle. I relax. He looks much more like the kind of guy a spring-struck moose might eye.</p>
684. <p>The walk here is long and flat. Husband Storks stuck in their domestic eyries look down on me, no doubt thinking: <em>&#8220;Now there&#8217;s a good idea.&#8221;</em></p>
685. <p>Finally a small river, marking just 5km left today.</p>
686. <p>I arrive in Turi late afternoon and head to the place I am staying, sitting beside the river. The landlady eyes me, and asks for the money upfront.</p>
687. <p>She tells me she will make me an English Breakfast.  I request:</p>
688. <p style="padding-left:30px;">&#8220;But no bacon or sausage.&#8221;</p>
689. <p>She gives me one those looks:</p>
690. <p style="padding-left:30px;">&#8220;So what&#8217;s left?&#8221;</p>
691. <p>Later we chat and she becomes friendly. She tells me the reason she asked for the money upfront is:</p>
692. <p style="padding-left:30px;">&#8220;You look like a man with no money&#8221;.</p>
693. <p>Have I really so cast off my earthly shackles?</p>
694. <p style="text-align:right;"><em>(events 1 May 2013)</em></p>
695. <hr />
696. ]]></content:encoded>
698. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/07/28/looking-penniless/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
699. <slash:comments>25</slash:comments>
702. <georss:point>59.382700 26.332100</georss:point>
703. <geo:lat>59.382700</geo:lat>
704. <geo:long>26.332100</geo:long>
705. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07108-blue_flowers_at_reopalu-2-rcpsuw-1200x694.jpg" />
706. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07108-blue_flowers_at_reopalu-2-rcpsuw-1200x694.jpg" medium="image">
707. <media:title type="html">Estonia, Paide - Reopalu Cemetery - carpet of blue flowers (1200x694)</media:title>
708. </media:content>
709.  
710. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
711. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
712. </media:content>
713.  
714. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07091-moss_on_roof-yellow-rcpsuw-1200x904.jpg" medium="image">
715. <media:title type="html">Estonia, Paide: Moss Growing on Roof of Wood House</media:title>
716. </media:content>
717.  
718. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07083-moss_on_roof-green_house-rcpsuw-1200x782.jpg" medium="image">
719. <media:title type="html">Estonia, Paide: Cosy Old Wood House</media:title>
720. </media:content>
721.  
722. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07101-cemetary_of_reopalu-rcpsuw-1200x720.jpg" medium="image">
723. <media:title type="html">Estonia, Paide - Reopalu Cemetery</media:title>
724. </media:content>
725.  
726. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07105-blue_flowers_at_reopalu-1-rcpsuw-1200x646.jpg" medium="image">
727. <media:title type="html">Estonia, Paide - Reopalu Cemetery - flowers, fence</media:title>
728. </media:content>
729.  
730. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07108-blue_flowers_at_reopalu-2-rcpsuw-1200x694.jpg" medium="image">
731. <media:title type="html">Estonia, Paide - Reopalu Cemetery - carpet of blue flowers</media:title>
732. </media:content>
733.  
734. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/dsc07118-stork_nesting-rcpsuw-400x558.jpg" medium="image">
735. <media:title type="html">Estonia, Road to Turi - Stork Nesting</media:title>
736. </media:content>
737. </item>
738. <item>
739. <title>After 800 Years</title>
740. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/07/10/optimism-in-the-air/</link>
741. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/07/10/optimism-in-the-air/#comments</comments>
743. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
744. <pubDate>Wed, 10 Jul 2013 10:30:29 +0000</pubDate>
745. <category><![CDATA[Estonian Moonrise]]></category>
746. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
747. <category><![CDATA[Estonian History]]></category>
748. <category><![CDATA[Estonian independence]]></category>
749. <category><![CDATA[long walking]]></category>
750. <category><![CDATA[on the road]]></category>
751. <category><![CDATA[serious travel]]></category>
752. <category><![CDATA[spring]]></category>
753. <category><![CDATA[Tallinn]]></category>
754. <category><![CDATA[travel literature]]></category>
755. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=2314</guid>
756.  
757. <description><![CDATA[After a month or two, the sun comes out on a bare but sunny park;  dead grass reviving, optimism in&#8230;]]></description>
758. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>After a month or two, the sun comes out on a bare but sunny park;  dead grass reviving, optimism in the air.<br />
759. Kids gather on old railway tracks:</p>
760. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/kids_on_tracks-rcpusw.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2311" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Tallinn - Spring - Kids on the Tracks" alt="Tallinn - Spring - Kids on the Tracks" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/kids_on_tracks-rcpusw.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=612" width="1200" height="612" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/kids_on_tracks-rcpusw.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/kids_on_tracks-rcpusw.jpg?w=242&amp;h=123 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/kids_on_tracks-rcpusw.jpg?w=854&amp;h=436 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/kids_on_tracks-rcpusw.jpg?w=768&amp;h=392 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>A tram trundles through a quiet park;  trees pull their souls back up from the cold earth:</p>
761. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/tram-rcpusw-1200x717.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2313" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Tallinn - Spring - Tram in a Park" alt="Tallinn - Spring - Tram in a Park" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/tram-rcpusw-1200x717.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=717" width="1200" height="717" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/tram-rcpusw-1200x717.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/tram-rcpusw-1200x717.jpg?w=226&amp;h=135 226w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/tram-rcpusw-1200x717.jpg?w=854&amp;h=510 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/tram-rcpusw-1200x717.jpg?w=768&amp;h=459 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>The city, buried for months beside a frozen sea,  emerges; just as this country now emerges from 800 years of subservience.<sup>[1 ]</sup></p>
762. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/city_on_the_sea-rcpusw-1200x711.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2310" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Tallinn - Emerging from the Sea" alt="Tallinn - Emerging from the Sea" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/city_on_the_sea-rcpusw-1200x711.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=711" width="1200" height="711" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/city_on_the_sea-rcpusw-1200x711.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/city_on_the_sea-rcpusw-1200x711.jpg?w=228&amp;h=135 228w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/city_on_the_sea-rcpusw-1200x711.jpg?w=854&amp;h=506 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/city_on_the_sea-rcpusw-1200x711.jpg?w=768&amp;h=455 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>But despite the still bitter wind from the north, the evening is beautiful.</p>
763. <p style="text-align:right;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/park-ice-water-1-rcp-suw-1200x641.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2312" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Tallinn - Spring - Icy Stream" alt="Tallinn - Spring - Icy Stream" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/park-ice-water-1-rcp-suw-1200x641.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=641" width="1200" height="641" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/park-ice-water-1-rcp-suw-1200x641.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/park-ice-water-1-rcp-suw-1200x641.jpg?w=242&amp;h=129 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/park-ice-water-1-rcp-suw-1200x641.jpg?w=854&amp;h=456 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/park-ice-water-1-rcp-suw-1200x641.jpg?w=768&amp;h=410 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a><em></em></p>
764. <p>I walk home along frozen stream and quietly singing grass.</p>
765. <p style="text-align:right;"><em>(events April 2013)</em></p>
766. <hr />
767. <p>Notes:</p>
768. <p>[1]  Estonia was independent only from 1920-1940, and now from 1991.  In one struggle in the 1600s, more than half the population died.</p>
769. <hr />
770. <hr />
771. ]]></content:encoded>
773. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/07/10/optimism-in-the-air/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
774. <slash:comments>9</slash:comments>
777. <georss:point>59.436961 24.753575</georss:point>
778. <geo:lat>59.436961</geo:lat>
779. <geo:long>24.753575</geo:long>
780. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/kids_on_tracks-rcpusw.jpg" />
781. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/kids_on_tracks-rcpusw.jpg" medium="image">
782. <media:title type="html">Tallinn - Spring - Kids on the Tracks</media:title>
783. </media:content>
784.  
785. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
786. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
787. </media:content>
788.  
789. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/kids_on_tracks-rcpusw.jpg" medium="image">
790. <media:title type="html">Tallinn - Spring - Kids on the Tracks</media:title>
791. </media:content>
792.  
793. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/tram-rcpusw-1200x717.jpg" medium="image">
794. <media:title type="html">Tallinn - Spring - Tram in a Park</media:title>
795. </media:content>
796.  
797. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/city_on_the_sea-rcpusw-1200x711.jpg" medium="image">
798. <media:title type="html">Tallinn - Emerging from the Sea</media:title>
799. </media:content>
800.  
801. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/park-ice-water-1-rcp-suw-1200x641.jpg" medium="image">
802. <media:title type="html">Tallinn - Spring - Icy Stream</media:title>
803. </media:content>
804. </item>
805. <item>
806. <title>Tuxedo Evenings</title>
807. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/06/15/tuxedo-evenings/</link>
808. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/06/15/tuxedo-evenings/#comments</comments>
810. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
811. <pubDate>Sat, 15 Jun 2013 12:28:48 +0000</pubDate>
812. <category><![CDATA[Estonian Moonrise]]></category>
813. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
814. <category><![CDATA[Estonia]]></category>
815. <category><![CDATA[long walks]]></category>
816. <category><![CDATA[on the road]]></category>
817. <category><![CDATA[serious travel]]></category>
818. <category><![CDATA[snow]]></category>
819. <category><![CDATA[Tallinn]]></category>
820. <category><![CDATA[travel literature]]></category>
821. <category><![CDATA[winter]]></category>
822. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=2301</guid>
823.  
824. <description><![CDATA[In one of my usual displays of poor judgement, I arrive in Estonia in Winter. In winter people here drink&#8230;]]></description>
825. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In one of my usual displays of poor judgement, I arrive in Estonia in Winter.<br />
826. In winter people here drink hard drink and go ice fishing:</p>
827. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc06947-ice_fishing-rup-w-1200x344.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2297" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia - Ice Fishing" alt="Estonia - Ice Fishing" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc06947-ice_fishing-rup-w-1200x344.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=344" width="1200" height="344" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc06947-ice_fishing-rup-w-1200x344.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc06947-ice_fishing-rup-w-1200x344.jpg?w=242&amp;h=69 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc06947-ice_fishing-rup-w-1200x344.jpg?w=854&amp;h=245 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc06947-ice_fishing-rup-w-1200x344.jpg?w=768&amp;h=220 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>The parks and harbours freeze up,<br />
828. and the line between land and sea gets blurred:</p>
829. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc06955-frozen_park_river_sea-rcu-w-1200x527.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2298" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia - Frozen Land, Frozen Sea" alt="Estonia - Frozen Land, Frozen Sea" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc06955-frozen_park_river_sea-rcu-w-1200x527.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=527" width="1200" height="527" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc06955-frozen_park_river_sea-rcu-w-1200x527.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc06955-frozen_park_river_sea-rcu-w-1200x527.jpg?w=242&amp;h=106 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc06955-frozen_park_river_sea-rcu-w-1200x527.jpg?w=854&amp;h=375 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc06955-frozen_park_river_sea-rcu-w-1200x527.jpg?w=768&amp;h=337 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>Even walking around the capital, my face freezes up and I am unable to speak.<br />
830. So I decide to take an apartment and wait it out, sitting beside my window:</p>
831. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc06990-snow_in_street-rcup-w-1200x701.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2299" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia - Snowfall" alt="Estonia - Snowfall" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc06990-snow_in_street-rcup-w-1200x701.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=701" width="1200" height="701" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc06990-snow_in_street-rcup-w-1200x701.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc06990-snow_in_street-rcup-w-1200x701.jpg?w=231&amp;h=135 231w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc06990-snow_in_street-rcup-w-1200x701.jpg?w=854&amp;h=499 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc06990-snow_in_street-rcup-w-1200x701.jpg?w=768&amp;h=449 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>The upside is it makes for elegant evenings.</p>
832. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc07005-after_the_snow-rcup-w-1200x710.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2300" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Estonia - Elegant after a Snowfall" alt="Estonia - Elegant after a Snowfall" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc07005-after_the_snow-rcup-w-1200x710.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=710" width="1200" height="710" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc07005-after_the_snow-rcup-w-1200x710.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc07005-after_the_snow-rcup-w-1200x710.jpg?w=228&amp;h=135 228w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc07005-after_the_snow-rcup-w-1200x710.jpg?w=854&amp;h=505 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc07005-after_the_snow-rcup-w-1200x710.jpg?w=768&amp;h=454 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>I regret there is no tuxedo in my backpack.<br />
833. The evenings here really call for a dinner suit.</p>
834. <p style="text-align:right;"><em>(events 30 Mar 2013)</em></p>
835. <hr />
836. ]]></content:encoded>
838. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/06/15/tuxedo-evenings/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
839. <slash:comments>15</slash:comments>
842. <georss:point>59.436961 24.753575</georss:point>
843. <geo:lat>59.436961</geo:lat>
844. <geo:long>24.753575</geo:long>
845. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc07005-after_the_snow-rcup-w-1200x710.jpg" />
846. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc07005-after_the_snow-rcup-w-1200x710.jpg" medium="image">
847. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Elegant after a Snowfall  (1200x710)</media:title>
848. </media:content>
849.  
850. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
851. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
852. </media:content>
853.  
854. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc06947-ice_fishing-rup-w-1200x344.jpg" medium="image">
855. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Ice Fishing</media:title>
856. </media:content>
857.  
858. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc06955-frozen_park_river_sea-rcu-w-1200x527.jpg" medium="image">
859. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Frozen Land, Frozen Sea</media:title>
860. </media:content>
861.  
862. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc06990-snow_in_street-rcup-w-1200x701.jpg" medium="image">
863. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Snowfall</media:title>
864. </media:content>
865.  
866. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/dsc07005-after_the_snow-rcup-w-1200x710.jpg" medium="image">
867. <media:title type="html">Estonia - Elegant after a Snowfall</media:title>
868. </media:content>
869. </item>
870. <item>
871. <title>Going Home</title>
872. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/05/26/going-home/</link>
873. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/05/26/going-home/#comments</comments>
875. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
876. <pubDate>Sun, 26 May 2013 16:02:27 +0000</pubDate>
877. <category><![CDATA[Sri Lankan Hills]]></category>
878. <category><![CDATA[cows]]></category>
879. <category><![CDATA[Sri Lanka]]></category>
880. <category><![CDATA[train tracks]]></category>
881. <category><![CDATA[train travel]]></category>
882. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=2264</guid>
883.  
884. <description><![CDATA[Today the lonely journey home.  A weary man regrets what he has not done: At Kandy I seek my last&#8230;]]></description>
885. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:24px;">Today the lonely journey home.  A weary man regrets what he has not done:</p>
886. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06825-walking_home-ru-p-1200x743.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2258" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Sri Lanka: Man Walking Home on Railway Tracks" alt="Sri Lanka: Man Walking Home on Railway Tracks" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06825-walking_home-ru-p-1200x743.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=743" width="1200" height="743" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06825-walking_home-ru-p-1200x743.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06825-walking_home-ru-p-1200x743.jpg?w=218&amp;h=135 218w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06825-walking_home-ru-p-1200x743.jpg?w=854&amp;h=529 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06825-walking_home-ru-p-1200x743.jpg?w=768&amp;h=476 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
887. <p style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;">At Kandy I seek my last Sri Lankan Tea: thick and sweet.  In beautiful Singhalese script I am offered:</p>
888. <p style="padding-left:120px;margin-top:4px;margin-bottom:0;"><em>Tea-time Cake Rs150/=</em></p>
889. <p style="padding-left:120px;margin-top:4px;"><em>Jujubes Rs60/=</em></p>
890. <p>Hindus sit on the ground fixing umbrellas. Muslims corner the pastry market.  Dogs wander, bereft of social purpose, sad.</p>
891. <p>I negotiate the Byzantine railway rules, the friendly suicidal tuktuks, little girls in bonnets, plump babies dressed regrettably, 3rd class carriages, &#8220;No Riding on the Footboard&#8221; and join a train:</p>
892. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06812-train-boys_hanging_out-rcu-pw-1200x703.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2257" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Sri Lanka: Boys Hanging Out of Train" alt="Sri Lanka: Boys Hanging Out of Train" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06812-train-boys_hanging_out-rcu-pw-1200x703.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=703" width="1200" height="703" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06812-train-boys_hanging_out-rcu-pw-1200x703.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06812-train-boys_hanging_out-rcu-pw-1200x703.jpg?w=230&amp;h=135 230w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06812-train-boys_hanging_out-rcu-pw-1200x703.jpg?w=854&amp;h=500 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06812-train-boys_hanging_out-rcu-pw-1200x703.jpg?w=768&amp;h=450 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>Even at the stations there are coconut palms, banana trees, mangoes, forest cashews, small red temples.  How can an island so bountiful have so many poor?</p>
893. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06834-kids-cow-old_trains-rc-pw-1200x659.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2260" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Sri Lanka: Kids and Cow on Train Tracks" alt="Sri Lanka: Kids and Cow on Train Tracks" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06834-kids-cow-old_trains-rc-pw-1200x659.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=659" width="1200" height="659" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06834-kids-cow-old_trains-rc-pw-1200x659.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06834-kids-cow-old_trains-rc-pw-1200x659.jpg?w=242&amp;h=133 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06834-kids-cow-old_trains-rc-pw-1200x659.jpg?w=854&amp;h=469 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06834-kids-cow-old_trains-rc-pw-1200x659.jpg?w=768&amp;h=422 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>We pass old English railway stations, palms, red flowering trees, a woman in a print dress running with her cow:</p>
894. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06830-woman_and_cow-r-pu-1200x669-1-79.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2259" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Sri Lanka: Woman Running with Cow Near Train" alt="Sri Lanka: Woman Running with Cow Near Train" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06830-woman_and_cow-r-pu-1200x669-1-79.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=669" width="1200" height="669" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06830-woman_and_cow-r-pu-1200x669-1-79.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06830-woman_and_cow-r-pu-1200x669-1-79.jpg?w=242&amp;h=135 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06830-woman_and_cow-r-pu-1200x669-1-79.jpg?w=854&amp;h=476 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06830-woman_and_cow-r-pu-1200x669-1-79.jpg?w=768&amp;h=428 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>We followed the warm rails into the red sky, my last here.  But trains, even when the rails are warm, do not turn back, do not err.  And for this, I was melancholy.</p>
895. <p style="text-align:right;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06835-sunset_on_tracks-rc-puw-1200x712.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2263" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Sri Lanka: Sunset on Warm Tracks" alt="Sri Lanka: Sunset on Warm Tracks" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06835-sunset_on_tracks-rc-puw-1200x712.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=712" width="1200" height="712" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06835-sunset_on_tracks-rc-puw-1200x712.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06835-sunset_on_tracks-rc-puw-1200x712.jpg?w=228&amp;h=135 228w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06835-sunset_on_tracks-rc-puw-1200x712.jpg?w=854&amp;h=507 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06835-sunset_on_tracks-rc-puw-1200x712.jpg?w=768&amp;h=456 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a><em>(events 18 Jan 2013)</em></p>
896. <hr />
897. ]]></content:encoded>
899. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/05/26/going-home/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
900. <slash:comments>30</slash:comments>
903. <georss:point>0.000000 0.000000</georss:point>
904. <geo:lat>0.000000</geo:lat>
905. <geo:long>0.000000</geo:long>
906. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06825-walking_home-ru-p-1200x743.jpg" />
907. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06825-walking_home-ru-p-1200x743.jpg" medium="image">
908. <media:title type="html">Sri Lanka: Man Walking Home on Railway Tracks  (1200x743)</media:title>
909. </media:content>
910.  
911. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
912. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
913. </media:content>
914.  
915. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06825-walking_home-ru-p-1200x743.jpg" medium="image">
916. <media:title type="html">Sri Lanka: Man Walking Home on Railway Tracks</media:title>
917. </media:content>
918.  
919. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06812-train-boys_hanging_out-rcu-pw-1200x703.jpg" medium="image">
920. <media:title type="html">Sri Lanka: Boys Hanging Out of Train</media:title>
921. </media:content>
922.  
923. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06834-kids-cow-old_trains-rc-pw-1200x659.jpg" medium="image">
924. <media:title type="html">Sri Lanka: Kids and Cow on Train Tracks</media:title>
925. </media:content>
926.  
927. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06830-woman_and_cow-r-pu-1200x669-1-79.jpg" medium="image">
928. <media:title type="html">Sri Lanka: Woman Running with Cow Near Train</media:title>
929. </media:content>
930.  
931. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06835-sunset_on_tracks-rc-puw-1200x712.jpg" medium="image">
932. <media:title type="html">Sri Lanka: Sunset on Warm Tracks</media:title>
933. </media:content>
934. </item>
935. <item>
936. <title>Wild Djinns, Tossing a Heart</title>
937. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/05/17/wild-djinns-tossing-a-heart/</link>
938. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/05/17/wild-djinns-tossing-a-heart/#comments</comments>
940. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
941. <pubDate>Fri, 17 May 2013 16:16:38 +0000</pubDate>
942. <category><![CDATA[Sri Lankan Hills]]></category>
943. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
944. <category><![CDATA[djinns]]></category>
945. <category><![CDATA[on the road]]></category>
946. <category><![CDATA[saris]]></category>
947. <category><![CDATA[serious travel]]></category>
948. <category><![CDATA[Sri Lanka]]></category>
949. <category><![CDATA[train journey]]></category>
950. <category><![CDATA[travel literature]]></category>
951. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=2239</guid>
952.  
953. <description><![CDATA[Taking a train down from Nanu Oya.  Beautiful women fly past like flocks of lorikeets, blue green yellow red: Clothes&#8230;]]></description>
954. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Taking a train down from Nanu Oya.  Beautiful women fly past like flocks of lorikeets, blue green yellow red:</p>
955. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06699-fast_blue_green_saris-rcpw-1200x812.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2232" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Sri Lanka: Flashing Saris from a train" alt="Sri Lanka: Flashing Saris from a train" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06699-fast_blue_green_saris-rcpw-1200x812.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=812" width="1200" height="812" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06699-fast_blue_green_saris-rcpw-1200x812.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06699-fast_blue_green_saris-rcpw-1200x812.jpg?w=200&amp;h=135 200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06699-fast_blue_green_saris-rcpw-1200x812.jpg?w=854&amp;h=578 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06699-fast_blue_green_saris-rcpw-1200x812.jpg?w=768&amp;h=520 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>Clothes dry on tea bushes.  Hills and hills of wild tea.  A skinny dark girl, unexpected in a bright pink long dress &#8211; a benign djinn smiling down at me.  A good omen, and I am grateful.</p>
956. <p>Kids, women, buildings flash past in 300 colors:</p>
957. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06774-colors_sitting-rcswu-650x551.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2236" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Sri Lanka: People at train platform, colors" alt="Sri Lanka: People at train platform, colors" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06774-colors_sitting-rcswu-650x551.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06774-colors_sitting-rcswu-650x551.jpg 650w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06774-colors_sitting-rcswu-650x551.jpg?w=159&amp;h=135 159w" sizes="(max-width: 650px) 100vw, 650px" /></a>Even a woman struggling with bags raises one arm to fly:</p>
958. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06695-stop-woman_in_sari-rcu-psw-450x571.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2231" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Sri Lanka: Woman in Sari getting on train" alt="Sri Lanka: Woman in Sari getting on train" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06695-stop-woman_in_sari-rcu-psw-450x571.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06695-stop-woman_in_sari-rcu-psw-450x571.jpg 450w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06695-stop-woman_in_sari-rcu-psw-450x571.jpg?w=106&amp;h=135 106w" sizes="(max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px" /></a>I mark a rundown station on my private map.  When the end of the world comes, this is where I will return to live:</p>
959. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06779-bush_station-rc-pswu-1200x778.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2237" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Sri Lanka: Overgrown jungle railway station" alt="Sri Lanka: Overgrown jungle railway station" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06779-bush_station-rc-pswu-1200x778.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=778" width="1200" height="778" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06779-bush_station-rc-pswu-1200x778.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06779-bush_station-rc-pswu-1200x778.jpg?w=208&amp;h=135 208w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06779-bush_station-rc-pswu-1200x778.jpg?w=854&amp;h=554 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06779-bush_station-rc-pswu-1200x778.jpg?w=768&amp;h=498 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>We race past a dusty girl in a dusty ochre dress, her wild hair a tangle.  She laughs teeth and waves.  Brings more joy and good fortune.</p>
960. <p>The train stops at a gate.  It takes less than an instant for this kid to grin.  I click and wish I could toss her a copy.  I toss her my heart instead.</p>
961. <p style="text-align:right;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06730-kid_waiting-rcpw-su-1200x759.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2235" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Sri Lanka: Smiling kid at railway gate" alt="Sri Lanka: Smiling kid at railway gate" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06730-kid_waiting-rcpw-su-1200x759.jpg?w=860&#038;h=543" width="860" height="543" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06730-kid_waiting-rcpw-su-1200x759.jpg?w=858&amp;h=543 858w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06730-kid_waiting-rcpw-su-1200x759.jpg?w=213&amp;h=135 213w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06730-kid_waiting-rcpw-su-1200x759.jpg?w=854&amp;h=540 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06730-kid_waiting-rcpw-su-1200x759.jpg?w=768&amp;h=486 768w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06730-kid_waiting-rcpw-su-1200x759.jpg 1200w" sizes="(max-width: 860px) 100vw, 860px" /></a>(events 18 Jan 2013)</p>
962. <hr />
963. ]]></content:encoded>
965. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/05/17/wild-djinns-tossing-a-heart/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
966. <slash:comments>17</slash:comments>
969. <georss:point>6.940316 80.740843</georss:point>
970. <geo:lat>6.940316</geo:lat>
971. <geo:long>80.740843</geo:long>
972. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06699-fast_blue_green_saris-rcpw-1200x812.jpg" />
973. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06699-fast_blue_green_saris-rcpw-1200x812.jpg" medium="image">
974. <media:title type="html">Sri Lanka: Flashing Saris from a train  (1200x812)</media:title>
975. </media:content>
976.  
977. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
978. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
979. </media:content>
980.  
981. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06699-fast_blue_green_saris-rcpw-1200x812.jpg" medium="image">
982. <media:title type="html">Sri Lanka: Flashing Saris from a train</media:title>
983. </media:content>
984.  
985. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06774-colors_sitting-rcswu-650x551.jpg" medium="image">
986. <media:title type="html">Sri Lanka: People at train platform, colors</media:title>
987. </media:content>
988.  
989. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06695-stop-woman_in_sari-rcu-psw-450x571.jpg" medium="image">
990. <media:title type="html">Sri Lanka: Woman in Sari getting on train</media:title>
991. </media:content>
992.  
993. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06779-bush_station-rc-pswu-1200x778.jpg" medium="image">
994. <media:title type="html">Sri Lanka: Overgrown jungle railway station</media:title>
995. </media:content>
996.  
997. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06730-kid_waiting-rcpw-su-1200x759.jpg" medium="image">
998. <media:title type="html">Sri Lanka: Smiling kid at railway gate</media:title>
999. </media:content>
1000. </item>
1001. <item>
1002. <title>For the Wide-eyed &#038; Beautiful</title>
1003. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/05/07/for-the-wide-eyed-and-beautiful/</link>
1004. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/05/07/for-the-wide-eyed-and-beautiful/#comments</comments>
1006. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
1007. <pubDate>Tue, 07 May 2013 16:19:21 +0000</pubDate>
1008. <category><![CDATA[Sri Lankan Hills]]></category>
1009. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
1010. <category><![CDATA[child labor]]></category>
1011. <category><![CDATA[child soldiers]]></category>
1012. <category><![CDATA[civil war]]></category>
1013. <category><![CDATA[on the road]]></category>
1014. <category><![CDATA[serious travel]]></category>
1015. <category><![CDATA[Sri Lanka]]></category>
1016. <category><![CDATA[travel literature]]></category>
1017. <category><![CDATA[Tsunami orphans]]></category>
1018. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=2180</guid>
1019.  
1020. <description><![CDATA[The first job when writing a post is to work out for who you are writing it.  There is no&#8230;]]></description>
1021. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The first job when writing a post is to work out for who you are writing it.  There is no doubt here:  it is for these two, wide-eyed and beautiful, despite growing up in a generation of vicious civil war in which both miserable sides used <em>children as soldiers</em><strong><em> on the front line</em></strong>.</p>
1022. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06420-nuwara_eliya-boy_girl_in_doorway-rcupw.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2176" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Nuwara Eliya - Boy and Girl in Doorway" alt="Nuwara Eliya - Boy and Girl in Doorway" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06420-nuwara_eliya-boy_girl_in_doorway-rcupw-700x671.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06420-nuwara_eliya-boy_girl_in_doorway-rcupw-700x671.jpg 700w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06420-nuwara_eliya-boy_girl_in_doorway-rcupw-700x671.jpg?w=141&amp;h=135 141w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px" /></a>and for this girl in the Dora the Explorer cap (grainy because it was late and dark) living in one of the poorer areas of Sri Lanka, and in a country and age when child labor is only now being dealt with.  Twenty years ago Dora the Explorer was another planet.</p>
1023. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06437-girl_in_dora_cap-rcucw-600x651.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2177" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Nuwara Eliya - Schoolgirl in Dora the Explorer Hat" alt="Nuwara Eliya - Schoolgirl in Dora the Explorer Hat" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06437-girl_in_dora_cap-rcucw-600x651.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06437-girl_in_dora_cap-rcucw-600x651.jpg 600w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06437-girl_in_dora_cap-rcucw-600x651.jpg?w=124&amp;h=135 124w" sizes="(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a>and for this wild djinn bringing me good luck from a fruit tree, a reminder of the orphaned survivors of the 2004 Tsunami and the exploitation and violence they live under:</p>
1024. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06417-girl_in_tree-rcupw.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2175" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Nuwara Eliya - Good Luck Djinn in Tree" alt="Nuwara Eliya - Good Luck Djinn in Tree" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06417-girl_in_tree-rcupw-1200x733.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=733" width="1200" height="733" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06417-girl_in_tree-rcupw-1200x733.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06417-girl_in_tree-rcupw-1200x733.jpg?w=221&amp;h=135 221w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06417-girl_in_tree-rcupw-1200x733.jpg?w=854&amp;h=522 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06417-girl_in_tree-rcupw-1200x733.jpg?w=768&amp;h=469 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>This is a new generation of Sri Lankan children, with new lives and new opportunities, even if they still share the grounds with cows:</p>
1025. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06624-schoolboys-rcupw-1200x436.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2178" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Shantipura - Schoolboys and Cow" alt="Shantipura - Schoolboys and Cow" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06624-schoolboys-rcupw-1200x436.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=436" width="1200" height="436" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06624-schoolboys-rcupw-1200x436.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06624-schoolboys-rcupw-1200x436.jpg?w=242&amp;h=88 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06624-schoolboys-rcupw-1200x436.jpg?w=854&amp;h=310 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06624-schoolboys-rcupw-1200x436.jpg?w=768&amp;h=279 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>I saw them rushing past on many railway stations, crossings and roads.  Serious faces, serious about their future:</p>
1026. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06760-schoolkids_on_platform-rcucw-1200x752.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2179" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Sri Lanka - School Kids Rushing along Railway Platform" alt="Sri Lanka - School Kids Rushing along Railway Platform" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06760-schoolkids_on_platform-rcucw-1200x752.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=752" width="1200" height="752" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06760-schoolkids_on_platform-rcucw-1200x752.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06760-schoolkids_on_platform-rcucw-1200x752.jpg?w=215&amp;h=135 215w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06760-schoolkids_on_platform-rcucw-1200x752.jpg?w=854&amp;h=535 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06760-schoolkids_on_platform-rcucw-1200x752.jpg?w=768&amp;h=481 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>They know they are the lucky ones.</p>
1027. <hr />
1028. ]]></content:encoded>
1030. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/05/07/for-the-wide-eyed-and-beautiful/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
1031. <slash:comments>12</slash:comments>
1034. <georss:point>6.970759 80.783180</georss:point>
1035. <geo:lat>6.970759</geo:lat>
1036. <geo:long>80.783180</geo:long>
1037. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06417-girl_in_tree-rcupw-242x135.jpg" />
1038. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06417-girl_in_tree-rcupw-242x135.jpg" medium="image">
1039. <media:title type="html">Nuwara Eliya - Good Luck Djinn in Tree  (242x135)</media:title>
1040. </media:content>
1041.  
1042. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
1043. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
1044. </media:content>
1045.  
1046. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06420-nuwara_eliya-boy_girl_in_doorway-rcupw-700x671.jpg" medium="image">
1047. <media:title type="html">Nuwara Eliya - Boy and Girl in Doorway</media:title>
1048. </media:content>
1049.  
1050. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06437-girl_in_dora_cap-rcucw-600x651.jpg" medium="image">
1051. <media:title type="html">Nuwara Eliya - Schoolgirl in Dora the Explorer Hat</media:title>
1052. </media:content>
1053.  
1054. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06417-girl_in_tree-rcupw-1200x733.jpg" medium="image">
1055. <media:title type="html">Nuwara Eliya - Good Luck Djinn in Tree</media:title>
1056. </media:content>
1057.  
1058. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06624-schoolboys-rcupw-1200x436.jpg" medium="image">
1059. <media:title type="html">Shantipura - Schoolboys and Cow</media:title>
1060. </media:content>
1061.  
1062. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06760-schoolkids_on_platform-rcucw-1200x752.jpg" medium="image">
1063. <media:title type="html">Sri Lanka - School Kids Rushing along Railway Platform</media:title>
1064. </media:content>
1065. </item>
1066. <item>
1067. <title>The Primary Colors of Plenty</title>
1068. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/04/30/the-primary-colors-of-plenty/</link>
1069. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/04/30/the-primary-colors-of-plenty/#comments</comments>
1071. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
1072. <pubDate>Tue, 30 Apr 2013 17:08:18 +0000</pubDate>
1073. <category><![CDATA[Sri Lankan Hills]]></category>
1074. <category><![CDATA[agriculture]]></category>
1075. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
1076. <category><![CDATA[blindness]]></category>
1077. <category><![CDATA[Nuwara Eliya]]></category>
1078. <category><![CDATA[on the road]]></category>
1079. <category><![CDATA[serious travel]]></category>
1080. <category><![CDATA[Shantipura]]></category>
1081. <category><![CDATA[travel literature]]></category>
1082. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=2155</guid>
1083.  
1084. <description><![CDATA[In some places mountain scenery is stunted bushes and scree, and what houses exist are, like their occupants, precariously attached&#8230;]]></description>
1085. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In some places mountain scenery is stunted bushes and scree, and what houses exist are, like their occupants, precariously attached to life.  Not here.</p>
1086. <p>Today I walk up to Shantipura, the highest village in Sri Lanka, sitting on &#8220;One Tree Mountain&#8221;, named by a monk with an overly literal sense of the oneness of all things.</p>
1087. <p>I walk past a white stupa  under a pure blue sky.   Amid a mass of green, people are digging, planting, watering vegetable plots.</p>
1088. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06592-view_of_temple-rwcvumcp-w1200x675.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2149" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Nuwara Eliya - View of Stupa from above" alt="Nuwara Eliya - View of Stupa from above" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06592-view_of_temple-rwcvumcp-w1200x675.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=675" width="1200" height="675" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06592-view_of_temple-rwcvumcp-w1200x675.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06592-view_of_temple-rwcvumcp-w1200x675.jpg?w=240&amp;h=135 240w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06592-view_of_temple-rwcvumcp-w1200x675.jpg?w=854&amp;h=480 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06592-view_of_temple-rwcvumcp-w1200x675.jpg?w=768&amp;h=432 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>Strong women pick tea, their bags held by a band around their heads.  They laugh at me and get back to work.  Likely they are evaluating and then dismissing me as husband material.</p>
1089. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06619-tea_pickers-rwcvumcp2-w1200x546.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2151" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Shantipura - tea pickers" alt="Shantipura - tea pickers" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06619-tea_pickers-rwcvumcp2-w1200x546.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=546" width="1200" height="546" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06619-tea_pickers-rwcvumcp2-w1200x546.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06619-tea_pickers-rwcvumcp2-w1200x546.jpg?w=242&amp;h=110 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06619-tea_pickers-rwcvumcp2-w1200x546.jpg?w=854&amp;h=389 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06619-tea_pickers-rwcvumcp2-w1200x546.jpg?w=768&amp;h=349 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>The top of the mountain here seems as fertile as the valley.  Given over to houses and market gardens growing a dozen different types of vegetable.</p>
1090. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06597-rugs-rcup2-u-w1200x558.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2150" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Shantipura - market gardens" alt="Shantipura - market gardens" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06597-rugs-rcup2-u-w1200x558.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=558" width="1200" height="558" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06597-rugs-rcup2-u-w1200x558.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06597-rugs-rcup2-u-w1200x558.jpg?w=242&amp;h=113 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06597-rugs-rcup2-u-w1200x558.jpg?w=854&amp;h=397 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06597-rugs-rcup2-u-w1200x558.jpg?w=768&amp;h=357 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>As I walk around the top I feel Sri Lankans don&#8217;t just smile, they laugh hello.  Since the end of socialism and civil war, people here grow stuff and laugh.  So different from Armenians, who, unable to see their way out from under the oligarchs, are often grim and gray.</p>
1091. <p>I get hungry but not much cooked food here.  I buy some sugary bread from this woman, who has a nice shop and seems content enough with her shop and with life.</p>
1092. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06653-simple_shop-rcup-u-w1200x620.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2152" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Shantipura - woman in small shop" alt="Shantipura - woman in small shop" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06653-simple_shop-rcup-u-w1200x620.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=620" width="1200" height="620" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06653-simple_shop-rcup-u-w1200x620.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06653-simple_shop-rcup-u-w1200x620.jpg?w=242&amp;h=125 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06653-simple_shop-rcup-u-w1200x620.jpg?w=854&amp;h=441 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06653-simple_shop-rcup-u-w1200x620.jpg?w=768&amp;h=397 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>I liked the look of this old woman, sitting Buddha-like on the step.  She smiled at me so I took her picture.    Later I realized she really was from the old Sri Lanka, and must have been smiling because she heard rather than saw me.  When I examined the full resolution picture, I realized she was blind.</p>
1093. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06658-old_woman-rcup-u-w500x717.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2154" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Shantipura - blind woman on steps" alt="Shantipura - blind woman on steps" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06658-old_woman-rcup-u-w500x717.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06658-old_woman-rcup-u-w500x717.jpg 500w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06658-old_woman-rcup-u-w500x717.jpg?w=94&amp;h=135 94w" sizes="(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px" /></a>By late evening I get back down to the town.  A chaos of Hindi songs, hand-cooked food, cheap goods.  Shops beckoning, touts touting.  Here it is the primary colors of plenty.</p>
1094. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06531-ne-fertile_houses-rcup-w1200x647.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2148" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Nuwara Eliya - Fertile Land" alt="Nuwara Eliya - Fertile Land" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06531-ne-fertile_houses-rcup-w1200x647.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=647" width="1200" height="647" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06531-ne-fertile_houses-rcup-w1200x647.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06531-ne-fertile_houses-rcup-w1200x647.jpg?w=242&amp;h=130 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06531-ne-fertile_houses-rcup-w1200x647.jpg?w=854&amp;h=460 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06531-ne-fertile_houses-rcup-w1200x647.jpg?w=768&amp;h=414 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>Again so different to Armenia, and its quiet gray of scarcity.  It is only now that I realize what it was that struck me most about Armenia &#8211; the lack of color.  And once again I realize you only really understand what you saw when you no longer see it.</p>
1095. <p style="text-align:right;">(events 17/Jan/2013)</p>
1096. <hr />
1097. ]]></content:encoded>
1099. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/04/30/the-primary-colors-of-plenty/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
1100. <slash:comments>10</slash:comments>
1104. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06658-old_woman-rcups-u-242x135.jpg" />
1105. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06658-old_woman-rcups-u-242x135.jpg" medium="image">
1106. <media:title type="html">Shantipura - blind woman on steps  (242x135)</media:title>
1107. </media:content>
1108.  
1109. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
1110. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
1111. </media:content>
1112.  
1113. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06592-view_of_temple-rwcvumcp-w1200x675.jpg" medium="image">
1114. <media:title type="html">Nuwara Eliya - View of Stupa from above</media:title>
1115. </media:content>
1116.  
1117. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06619-tea_pickers-rwcvumcp2-w1200x546.jpg" medium="image">
1118. <media:title type="html">Shantipura - tea pickers</media:title>
1119. </media:content>
1120.  
1121. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06597-rugs-rcup2-u-w1200x558.jpg" medium="image">
1122. <media:title type="html">Shantipura - market gardens</media:title>
1123. </media:content>
1124.  
1125. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06653-simple_shop-rcup-u-w1200x620.jpg" medium="image">
1126. <media:title type="html">Shantipura - woman in small shop</media:title>
1127. </media:content>
1128.  
1129. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06658-old_woman-rcup-u-w500x717.jpg" medium="image">
1130. <media:title type="html">Shantipura - blind woman on steps</media:title>
1131. </media:content>
1132.  
1133. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06531-ne-fertile_houses-rcup-w1200x647.jpg" medium="image">
1134. <media:title type="html">Nuwara Eliya - Fertile Land</media:title>
1135. </media:content>
1136. </item>
1137. <item>
1138. <title>New Men, Gentle Traders</title>
1139. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/04/23/new-men-gentle-traders/</link>
1140. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/04/23/new-men-gentle-traders/#comments</comments>
1142. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
1143. <pubDate>Tue, 23 Apr 2013 20:36:10 +0000</pubDate>
1144. <category><![CDATA[Sri Lankan Hills]]></category>
1145. <category><![CDATA[market economy]]></category>
1146. <category><![CDATA[Nuwara Eliya]]></category>
1147. <category><![CDATA[socialism]]></category>
1148. <category><![CDATA[Sri Lanka]]></category>
1149. <category><![CDATA[travel]]></category>
1150. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=2118</guid>
1151.  
1152. <description><![CDATA[When I first went to Sri Lanka &#8211; by 2 boats from Rameswaram in the south of India &#8211; it&#8230;]]></description>
1153. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>When I first went to Sri Lanka &#8211; by 2 boats from Rameswaram in the south of India &#8211; it was in the throes of a miserable socialism<sup>[1 ]</sup>.    Mean politicians ruled a people unable to see past the struggle for their next meal.  Even the land seemed dusty and intractable.  But now, with the return of a market economy, the land is so lush it is startling.</p>
1154. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06515-white_house-rwcvumcp.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2111" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Nuwara Eliya - white house beside road" alt="Sri Lanka, Nuwara Eliya - white house beside road - lush land" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06515-white_house-rwcvumcp-1200x474.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=474" width="1200" height="474" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06515-white_house-rwcvumcp-1200x474.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06515-white_house-rwcvumcp-1200x474.jpg?w=242&amp;h=96 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06515-white_house-rwcvumcp-1200x474.jpg?w=854&amp;h=337 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06515-white_house-rwcvumcp-1200x474.jpg?w=768&amp;h=303 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>One of the local crops is potatoes, and this man trades in potatoes.  He was a decent man, gently spoken and well educated.  Why would I mention this?  Because under socialism the Sri Lankans I met were either the fat-witted privileged, or the hustling down-trodden.</p>
1155. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06670-potato_trader-rwcvumcp-1200x676.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2117" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Nuwara Eliya - Gentle Trader" alt="Sri Lanka,  Nuwara Eliya - Potato Trader" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06670-potato_trader-rwcvumcp-1200x676.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=676" width="1200" height="676" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06670-potato_trader-rwcvumcp-1200x676.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06670-potato_trader-rwcvumcp-1200x676.jpg?w=240&amp;h=135 240w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06670-potato_trader-rwcvumcp-1200x676.jpg?w=854&amp;h=481 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06670-potato_trader-rwcvumcp-1200x676.jpg?w=768&amp;h=433 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
1156. <p>Now this man is a shop-keeper of the old school.  He sells &#8216;paan&#8217;, that stimulating, disgusting, somewhat lethal mixture of leaves, tobacco and spices that people on the subcontinent chew.  I asked him if it was good for you.  He told one of the men in the shop to show me his mouth &#8211; a straggle of black, rotted teeth.  Did he use it?  &#8220;Of course not&#8221;.</p>
1157. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06578-pan_seller-rwcv_cp.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2114" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Nuwara Eliya - Paan Seller" alt="Sri Lanka,  Nuwara Eliya - Paan Seller" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06578-pan_seller-rwcv_cp-500x655.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06578-pan_seller-rwcv_cp-500x655.jpg 500w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06578-pan_seller-rwcv_cp-500x655.jpg?w=103&amp;h=135 103w" sizes="(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px" /></a>His is a simple paan.  The ingredients pictured below I guess are betel leaf, betel nut, tobacco and lime stone powder paste<sup>[2 ]</sup>.  Though if anyone has a sufficiently purple mouth to correct me, feel free.</p>
1158. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06576-pan-umcp.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2113" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="A simple paan" alt="Sri Lanka,  Nuwara Eliya, Paan Seller, A simple paan" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06576-pan-umcp-500x380.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06576-pan-umcp-500x380.jpg 500w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06576-pan-umcp-500x380.jpg?w=178&amp;h=135 178w" sizes="(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px" /></a>Margins for traders are no doubt small, and these men work hard and late.</p>
1159. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06580-traders-jpg-1200x570.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2115" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Nuwara Eliya - Evening Traders" alt="Sri Lanka,  Nuwara Eliya - Evening Traders" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06580-traders-jpg-1200x570.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=570" width="1200" height="570" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06580-traders-jpg-1200x570.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06580-traders-jpg-1200x570.jpg?w=242&amp;h=115 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06580-traders-jpg-1200x570.jpg?w=854&amp;h=406 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06580-traders-jpg-1200x570.jpg?w=768&amp;h=365 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>But the end result is markets full of goods that most can afford:</p>
1160. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06662-shops-rwcvumcp-1200x872.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2116" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Nuwara Eliya - Formal and Informal Markets" alt="Sri Lanka,  Nuwara Eliya - Shops, Formal and Informal Markets" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06662-shops-rwcvumcp-1200x872.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=872" width="1200" height="872" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06662-shops-rwcvumcp-1200x872.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06662-shops-rwcvumcp-1200x872.jpg?w=186&amp;h=135 186w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06662-shops-rwcvumcp-1200x872.jpg?w=854&amp;h=621 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06662-shops-rwcvumcp-1200x872.jpg?w=768&amp;h=558 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>and an economy in which even the less favored can still survive<sup>[3 ]</sup>.</p>
1161. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06571-muslim_shop-jpg-1200x738.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2112" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Nuwara Eliya - Muslim shop, Tamil food seller" alt="Sri Lanka,  Nuwara Eliya - Muslim shop, Tamil food seller" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06571-muslim_shop-jpg-1200x738.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=738" width="1200" height="738" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06571-muslim_shop-jpg-1200x738.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06571-muslim_shop-jpg-1200x738.jpg?w=220&amp;h=135 220w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06571-muslim_shop-jpg-1200x738.jpg?w=854&amp;h=525 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06571-muslim_shop-jpg-1200x738.jpg?w=768&amp;h=472 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
1162. <hr />
1163. <p>Notes</p>
1164. <p>1.  Even the Trotskyites got a seat at the table.  These were guys who never got invited anywhere.</p>
1165. <p>2   He did tell me what they were but my brain ran out of room for new stuff 11 years ago.</p>
1166. <p>3.  Kindly note:  there is nothing in this practical endorsement of market economies that suggests there aren&#8217;t some CEOs who ought to be stuffed into a cannon and shot off the planet.  After getting an &#8216;atomic wedgie&#8217;.</p>
1167. <hr />
1168. ]]></content:encoded>
1170. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/04/23/new-men-gentle-traders/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
1171. <slash:comments>11</slash:comments>
1175. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06670-potato_trader-rwcvumcp-1200x676.jpg" />
1176. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06670-potato_trader-rwcvumcp-1200x676.jpg" medium="image">
1177. <media:title type="html">Nuwara Eliya - Gentle Trader  (1200x676)</media:title>
1178. </media:content>
1179.  
1180. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
1181. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
1182. </media:content>
1183.  
1184. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06515-white_house-rwcvumcp-1200x474.jpg" medium="image">
1185. <media:title type="html">Nuwara Eliya - white house beside road</media:title>
1186. </media:content>
1187.  
1188. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06670-potato_trader-rwcvumcp-1200x676.jpg" medium="image">
1189. <media:title type="html">Nuwara Eliya - Gentle Trader</media:title>
1190. </media:content>
1191.  
1192. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06578-pan_seller-rwcv_cp-500x655.jpg" medium="image">
1193. <media:title type="html">Nuwara Eliya - Paan Seller</media:title>
1194. </media:content>
1195.  
1196. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06576-pan-umcp-500x380.jpg" medium="image">
1197. <media:title type="html">A simple paan</media:title>
1198. </media:content>
1199.  
1200. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06580-traders-jpg-1200x570.jpg" medium="image">
1201. <media:title type="html">Nuwara Eliya - Evening Traders</media:title>
1202. </media:content>
1203.  
1204. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06662-shops-rwcvumcp-1200x872.jpg" medium="image">
1205. <media:title type="html">Nuwara Eliya - Formal and Informal Markets</media:title>
1206. </media:content>
1207.  
1208. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06571-muslim_shop-jpg-1200x738.jpg" medium="image">
1209. <media:title type="html">Nuwara Eliya - Muslim shop, Tamil food seller</media:title>
1210. </media:content>
1211. </item>
1212. <item>
1213. <title>Train to the Hills</title>
1214. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/04/17/train-into-the-hills/</link>
1215. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/04/17/train-into-the-hills/#comments</comments>
1217. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
1218. <pubDate>Wed, 17 Apr 2013 20:17:44 +0000</pubDate>
1219. <category><![CDATA[Sri Lankan Hills]]></category>
1220. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
1221. <category><![CDATA[hill stations]]></category>
1222. <category><![CDATA[Nuwara Eliya]]></category>
1223. <category><![CDATA[on the road]]></category>
1224. <category><![CDATA[serious travel]]></category>
1225. <category><![CDATA[Sri Lanka]]></category>
1226. <category><![CDATA[train travel]]></category>
1227. <category><![CDATA[travel literature]]></category>
1228. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=2087</guid>
1229.  
1230. <description><![CDATA[From Kandy I take the train to Nuwara Eliya (&#8216;City of Light&#8217;), an old hill station and a place famous&#8230;]]></description>
1231. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>From Kandy I take the train to Nuwara Eliya (&#8216;City of Light&#8217;), an old hill station and a place famous for its tea.  Train, men and beasts shared the tracks, in a show of mutual respect and tolerance.</p>
1232. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06411-train-green_flag-rwcvum-cp.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-2084 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Train to Nuwara Eliya - Conductor with Flag" alt="Train to Nuwara Eliya - Conductor with Flag" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06411-train-green_flag-rwcvum-cp-400x546.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06411-train-green_flag-rwcvum-cp-400x546.jpg 400w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06411-train-green_flag-rwcvum-cp-400x546.jpg?w=99&amp;h=135 99w" sizes="(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px" /></a>After Armenia, the land beside the tracks is so fertile and so green, the people so lucky, it hurts my eyes.</p>
1233. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06402-girl_with_umbrella-rwcvumcp-1200x448.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2082" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Train to Nuwara Eliya - Girl with Umbrella" alt="Train to Nuwara Eliya - Girl with Umbrella" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06402-girl_with_umbrella-rwcvumcp-1200x448.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=448" width="1200" height="448" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06402-girl_with_umbrella-rwcvumcp-1200x448.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06402-girl_with_umbrella-rwcvumcp-1200x448.jpg?w=242&amp;h=90 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06402-girl_with_umbrella-rwcvumcp-1200x448.jpg?w=854&amp;h=319 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06402-girl_with_umbrella-rwcvumcp-1200x448.jpg?w=768&amp;h=287 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>I arrive at the hill station in the late evening.  Smoke rising from a prosperous buddhist town, steps of vegetables leading up the nearby mountain, and the last of the sun at the top.</p>
1234. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06443-ne-smoke_rising-rwcvcp.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2100" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Nuwara Eliya - Smoke Rising from Evening Town" alt="Nuwara Eliya - Smoke Rising from Evening Town" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06443-ne-smoke_rising-rwcvcp-1200x553.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=533" width="1200" height="533" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06443-ne-smoke_rising-rwcvcp-1200x553.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06443-ne-smoke_rising-rwcvcp-1200x553.jpg?w=242&amp;h=107 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06443-ne-smoke_rising-rwcvcp-1200x553.jpg?w=854&amp;h=379 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06443-ne-smoke_rising-rwcvcp-1200x553.jpg?w=768&amp;h=341 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>And to round out an excellent day, a quick drink of &#8220;Foreign Liquor&#8221;.</p>
1235. <p style="text-align:right;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06548-foreign_liquor_shop-rwcvumcp-700x719.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2086" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Nuwara Eliya - Foreign Liquor Shop" alt="Nuwara Eliya - Foreign Liquor Shop" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06548-foreign_liquor_shop-rwcvumcp-700x719.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=719" width="1200" height="719" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06548-foreign_liquor_shop-rwcvumcp-700x719.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06548-foreign_liquor_shop-rwcvumcp-700x719.jpg?w=225&amp;h=135 225w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06548-foreign_liquor_shop-rwcvumcp-700x719.jpg?w=854&amp;h=512 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06548-foreign_liquor_shop-rwcvumcp-700x719.jpg?w=768&amp;h=460 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a><em>(events 15 Jan 2013)</em></p>
1236. <hr />
1237. ]]></content:encoded>
1239. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/04/17/train-into-the-hills/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
1240. <slash:comments>7</slash:comments>
1243. <georss:point>6.970759 80.783180</georss:point>
1244. <geo:lat>6.970759</geo:lat>
1245. <geo:long>80.783180</geo:long>
1246. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06405-temple_beside-railway-rwcvumcp-1200x611.jpg" />
1247. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06405-temple_beside-railway-rwcvumcp-1200x611.jpg" medium="image">
1248. <media:title type="html">Train to Nuwara Eliya - Temple Beside Railway  (1200x611)</media:title>
1249. </media:content>
1250.  
1251. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
1252. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
1253. </media:content>
1254.  
1255. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06411-train-green_flag-rwcvum-cp-400x546.jpg" medium="image">
1256. <media:title type="html">Train to Nuwara Eliya - Conductor with Flag</media:title>
1257. </media:content>
1258.  
1259. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06402-girl_with_umbrella-rwcvumcp-1200x448.jpg" medium="image">
1260. <media:title type="html">Train to Nuwara Eliya - Girl with Umbrella</media:title>
1261. </media:content>
1262.  
1263. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06443-ne-smoke_rising-rwcvcp-1200x553.jpg" medium="image">
1264. <media:title type="html">Nuwara Eliya - Smoke Rising from Evening Town</media:title>
1265. </media:content>
1266.  
1267. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06548-foreign_liquor_shop-rwcvumcp-700x719.jpg" medium="image">
1268. <media:title type="html">Nuwara Eliya - Foreign Liquor Shop</media:title>
1269. </media:content>
1270. </item>
1271. <item>
1272. <title>Overlooked by the Buddha</title>
1273. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/04/08/overlooked-by-the-buddha/</link>
1274. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/04/08/overlooked-by-the-buddha/#comments</comments>
1276. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
1277. <pubDate>Mon, 08 Apr 2013 19:44:55 +0000</pubDate>
1278. <category><![CDATA[Sri Lankan Hills]]></category>
1279. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
1280. <category><![CDATA[British Colonialism]]></category>
1281. <category><![CDATA[Buddha]]></category>
1282. <category><![CDATA[Colonialism]]></category>
1283. <category><![CDATA[Kandy]]></category>
1284. <category><![CDATA[on the road]]></category>
1285. <category><![CDATA[serious travel]]></category>
1286. <category><![CDATA[Sri Lanka]]></category>
1287. <category><![CDATA[travel literature]]></category>
1288. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=2036</guid>
1289.  
1290. <description><![CDATA[Between the cold and gray of Armenia, and the coming freezing white winter of Estonia, I decided to take a&#8230;]]></description>
1291. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Between the cold and gray of Armenia, and the coming freezing white winter of Estonia, I decided to take a sojourn in Sri Lanka:  To re-heat my chilled bone marrow, re-calibrate my eyes to color, and wear short pants for a bit.</p>
1292. <p>I decided to start in what I knew to be a holy place:  Kandy:</p>
1293. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06347-monk-in-trees-rwcvumcp2-1200.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2031" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Kandy - Monk" alt="Kandy - Monk" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06347-monk-in-trees-rwcvumcp2-1200.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=656" width="1200" height="656" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06347-monk-in-trees-rwcvumcp2-1200.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06347-monk-in-trees-rwcvumcp2-1200.jpg?w=242&amp;h=132 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06347-monk-in-trees-rwcvumcp2-1200.jpg?w=854&amp;h=467 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06347-monk-in-trees-rwcvumcp2-1200.jpg?w=768&amp;h=420 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>The home of a tooth from the funeral pyre of Buddha, Kandy was a seat of culture and kings for 600 years.  Until those bastard British colonialists <sup>[1 ]</sup> wiped out the ruling class in 1818 and expropriated the lands of the peasantry, reducing them to poverty.   While colonial rule was on balance good for some places, Sri Lanka was not one of them.</p>
1294. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06374-walking_the_tracks-kandy-rwcvumcp2-1200.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2063" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Kandy - Walking on the Tracks" alt="Kandy - Walking on the Tracks" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06374-walking_the_tracks-kandy-rwcvumcp2-1200.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=586" width="1200" height="586" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06374-walking_the_tracks-kandy-rwcvumcp2-1200.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06374-walking_the_tracks-kandy-rwcvumcp2-1200.jpg?w=242&amp;h=118 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06374-walking_the_tracks-kandy-rwcvumcp2-1200.jpg?w=854&amp;h=417 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06374-walking_the_tracks-kandy-rwcvumcp2-1200.jpg?w=768&amp;h=375 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
1295. <p>Kandy is now religious and administration center, a world heritage site, and a place where business is done in the traditional way <sup>[2 ]</sup> :</p>
1296. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06325-attorney_at_law-rwcvumcp-1200.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2028" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Kandy - Attorney at Law" alt="Kandy - Attorney at Law" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06325-attorney_at_law-rwcvumcp-1200.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=699" width="1200" height="699" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06325-attorney_at_law-rwcvumcp-1200.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06325-attorney_at_law-rwcvumcp-1200.jpg?w=232&amp;h=135 232w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06325-attorney_at_law-rwcvumcp-1200.jpg?w=854&amp;h=497 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06325-attorney_at_law-rwcvumcp-1200.jpg?w=768&amp;h=447 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>A city whose life, despite progress, is still overlooked by the Buddha:</p>
1297. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06365-buddha_on_hill-rwcvumcp2-1200.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2060" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Kandy - Buddha on Hill" alt="Kandy - Buddha on Hill" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06365-buddha_on_hill-rwcvumcp2-1200.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=686" width="1200" height="686" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06365-buddha_on_hill-rwcvumcp2-1200.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06365-buddha_on_hill-rwcvumcp2-1200.jpg?w=236&amp;h=135 236w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06365-buddha_on_hill-rwcvumcp2-1200.jpg?w=854&amp;h=488 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06365-buddha_on_hill-rwcvumcp2-1200.jpg?w=768&amp;h=439 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>In its center is a lake that breathes and brings peace:</p>
1298. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06357-kandy_lake_with_birds-rwcvumcp-1200.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2032" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Kandy - Lake with Birds" alt="Kandy - Lake with Birds" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06357-kandy_lake_with_birds-rwcvumcp-1200.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=657" width="1200" height="657" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06357-kandy_lake_with_birds-rwcvumcp-1200.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06357-kandy_lake_with_birds-rwcvumcp-1200.jpg?w=242&amp;h=132 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06357-kandy_lake_with_birds-rwcvumcp-1200.jpg?w=854&amp;h=468 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06357-kandy_lake_with_birds-rwcvumcp-1200.jpg?w=768&amp;h=420 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>I walk around the lake a few times then walk back to where I am staying, up in the mists of Kandy:</p>
1299. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06377-kandy-evening_in_mountains-rwcv00cp-1200.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2035" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Kandy - Evening in the Mountains" alt="Kandy - Evening in the Mountains" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06377-kandy-evening_in_mountains-rwcv00cp-1200.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=580" width="1200" height="580" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06377-kandy-evening_in_mountains-rwcv00cp-1200.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06377-kandy-evening_in_mountains-rwcv00cp-1200.jpg?w=242&amp;h=117 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06377-kandy-evening_in_mountains-rwcv00cp-1200.jpg?w=854&amp;h=413 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06377-kandy-evening_in_mountains-rwcv00cp-1200.jpg?w=768&amp;h=371 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
1300. <hr />
1301. <p>[1]  For those for whom English slang is a bit obscure, when I refer to the &#8220;bastard British&#8221;, I do not mean they were all born out of wedlock. Some of them can clearly prove this not to be the case.</p>
1302. <p>[2]  The last time I was here, in simpler but poorer times, I had ridden my BMW motorbike (slowly) through the beautiful and extensive botanic gardens, something the country is now well organized enough to no longer allow.</p>
1303. <hr />
1304. ]]></content:encoded>
1306. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/04/08/overlooked-by-the-buddha/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
1307. <slash:comments>11</slash:comments>
1310. <georss:point>7.284459 80.637459</georss:point>
1311. <geo:lat>7.284459</geo:lat>
1312. <geo:long>80.637459</geo:long>
1313. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06347-monk-in-trees-rwcvumcp2-1-91-1200.jpg" />
1314. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06347-monk-in-trees-rwcvumcp2-1-91-1200.jpg" medium="image">
1315. <media:title type="html">Kandy - Monk    (1.91-1200)</media:title>
1316. </media:content>
1317.  
1318. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
1319. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
1320. </media:content>
1321.  
1322. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06347-monk-in-trees-rwcvumcp2-1200.jpg" medium="image">
1323. <media:title type="html">Kandy - Monk</media:title>
1324. </media:content>
1325.  
1326. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06374-walking_the_tracks-kandy-rwcvumcp2-1200.jpg" medium="image">
1327. <media:title type="html">Kandy - Walking on the Tracks</media:title>
1328. </media:content>
1329.  
1330. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06325-attorney_at_law-rwcvumcp-1200.jpg" medium="image">
1331. <media:title type="html">Kandy - Attorney at Law</media:title>
1332. </media:content>
1333.  
1334. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06365-buddha_on_hill-rwcvumcp2-1200.jpg" medium="image">
1335. <media:title type="html">Kandy - Buddha on Hill</media:title>
1336. </media:content>
1337.  
1338. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06357-kandy_lake_with_birds-rwcvumcp-1200.jpg" medium="image">
1339. <media:title type="html">Kandy - Lake with Birds</media:title>
1340. </media:content>
1341.  
1342. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06377-kandy-evening_in_mountains-rwcv00cp-1200.jpg" medium="image">
1343. <media:title type="html">Kandy - Evening in the Mountains</media:title>
1344. </media:content>
1345. </item>
1346. <item>
1347. <title>Under Here, the Bones of the Innocent</title>
1348. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/03/27/under-here-the-bones-of-the-innocent/</link>
1349. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/03/27/under-here-the-bones-of-the-innocent/#comments</comments>
1351. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
1352. <pubDate>Wed, 27 Mar 2013 19:44:33 +0000</pubDate>
1353. <category><![CDATA[Walking Armenia]]></category>
1354. <category><![CDATA[Armenian Genocide]]></category>
1355. <category><![CDATA[Armin Wegner]]></category>
1356. <category><![CDATA[genocide denial]]></category>
1357. <category><![CDATA[Hasan Cemal]]></category>
1358. <category><![CDATA[Turkish Government]]></category>
1359. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=1896</guid>
1360.  
1361. <description><![CDATA[Three graves, of three members of a family, buried side by side.   Three old stone graves, each with two long-stemmed&#8230;]]></description>
1362. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Three graves, of three members of a family, buried side by side.   Three old stone graves, each with two long-stemmed white flowers.   Each of these three people, with almost fresh white flowers, died a hundred years ago.</p>
1363. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06047-3headstones-1911-1913-1917-rwcvum5cpw-1200x740.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2204" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Armenian Genocide - graves of three members of a family who died" alt="Armenian Genocide - graves of three members of a family who died" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06047-3headstones-1911-1913-1917-rwcvum5cpw-1200x740.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=740" width="1200" height="740" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06047-3headstones-1911-1913-1917-rwcvum5cpw-1200x740.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06047-3headstones-1911-1913-1917-rwcvum5cpw-1200x740.jpg?w=219&amp;h=135 219w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06047-3headstones-1911-1913-1917-rwcvum5cpw-1200x740.jpg?w=854&amp;h=527 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06047-3headstones-1911-1913-1917-rwcvum5cpw-1200x740.jpg?w=768&amp;h=474 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>They were a few of the 1.5 million who died in the Armenian genocide, and despite a hundred years, Armenians will not forget them.   These hundred year old graves were in an isolated reach of an isolated cemetery, yet someone still came.</p>
1364. <p>If you dig a few feet in the soil here in Echmiadzin you reach bones.   Small, frail bones.   The bones of the women and children who congregated here after fleeing massacres of their men, their husbands and fathers, in Turkey.   Weakened by hunger, disease, constant attacks and exhaustion, they mostly died where they stood.</p>
1365. <div data-shortcode="caption" id="attachment_1892" style="width: 430px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/genocide-church_amid_the_bones.jpg" target="_blank"><img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-1892" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-1892 " style="border:3px solid black;" alt="Echmiadzin - church amid the bones of the Genocide" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/genocide-church_amid_the_bones.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/genocide-church_amid_the_bones.jpg 420w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/genocide-church_amid_the_bones.jpg?w=133&amp;h=135 133w" sizes="(max-width: 420px) 100vw, 420px" /></a><p id="caption-attachment-1892" class="wp-caption-text">&#8220;Refugee burial ground &#8211; Etchmiadzin&#8221;<br />From the Collection of National Geographic</p></div>
1366. <p>Sometimes governments do things that an ordinary human would be ashamed to do, even the humans that are their own citizens.   One such is the Turkish government denial of the Armenian Genocide <sup>[1 ]</sup>.   Any search for the Armenian genocide takes you to the gray, terrible misery of a hundred years ago: to pictures that make any human weep.   This was the extermination for which the word &#8216;genocide&#8217; was first coined.</p>
1367. <p>I can understand that no man wishes to name his grandfather, for it was the grandfathers of the present men <sup>[2 ]</sup>.   But how can a man stand tall, face his own children, and say this did not happen?</p>
1368. <p><div data-shortcode="caption" id="attachment_1895" style="width: 430px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/two_armenian_boys-starved_to_death-1915-1916-armin_wegner.jpg" target="_blank"><img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-1895" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-1895 " style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;" alt="Two Armenian Boys, starved to death" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/two_armenian_boys-starved_to_death-1915-1916-armin_wegner.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/two_armenian_boys-starved_to_death-1915-1916-armin_wegner.jpg 420w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/two_armenian_boys-starved_to_death-1915-1916-armin_wegner.jpg?w=206&amp;h=135 206w" sizes="(max-width: 420px) 100vw, 420px" /></a><p id="caption-attachment-1895" class="wp-caption-text">&#8220;Starvation of two boys&#8221;<br />From the Collection of the Armin Wegner Society <sup>[3 ]</sup></p></div>Some survived to become the grandparents of this generation:</p>
1369. <div data-shortcode="caption" id="attachment_1894" style="width: 322px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/seeking_admittance-armenian_orphans_at_orphanage_gates.jpg" target="_blank"><img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-1894" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-1894 " style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;" title="Armenian children outside orphanage gates" alt="Armenian children outside orphanage gates" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/seeking_admittance-armenian_orphans_at_orphanage_gates.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/seeking_admittance-armenian_orphans_at_orphanage_gates.jpg 312w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/seeking_admittance-armenian_orphans_at_orphanage_gates.jpg?w=100&amp;h=135 100w" sizes="(max-width: 312px) 100vw, 312px" /></a><p id="caption-attachment-1894" class="wp-caption-text">&#8220;Clamoring for admittance: Armenian orphans at the Gyumri orphanage gates&#8221;<br />From the Collection of Near East Relief Society</p></div>
1370. <p>So the children of today can run amid the graves of their great-grandparents.</p>
1371. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06287-kids_skipping_over_gravestones-jpcvum5cpw-1200x502.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2206" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Armenian Genocide - Echmiadzin - children skipping over gravestones" alt="Armenian Genocide - Echmiadzin - children skipping over gravestones" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06287-kids_skipping_over_gravestones-jpcvum5cpw-1200x502.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=502" width="1200" height="502" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06287-kids_skipping_over_gravestones-jpcvum5cpw-1200x502.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06287-kids_skipping_over_gravestones-jpcvum5cpw-1200x502.jpg?w=242&amp;h=101 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06287-kids_skipping_over_gravestones-jpcvum5cpw-1200x502.jpg?w=854&amp;h=357 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06287-kids_skipping_over_gravestones-jpcvum5cpw-1200x502.jpg?w=768&amp;h=321 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>And in the churches of Echmiadzin, the churches that stand amid the hundreds of thousands of bones, a light still shines:</p>
1372. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06279-church_amid_the_bones-rwcvum5cp2w-1200x625.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2205" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Church in Echmiadzin sitting amid bones of Armenian Genocide" alt="Church in Echmiadzin sitting amid bones of Armenian Genocide" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06279-church_amid_the_bones-rwcvum5cp2w-1200x625.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=625" width="1200" height="625" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06279-church_amid_the_bones-rwcvum5cp2w-1200x625.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06279-church_amid_the_bones-rwcvum5cp2w-1200x625.jpg?w=242&amp;h=126 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06279-church_amid_the_bones-rwcvum5cp2w-1200x625.jpg?w=854&amp;h=445 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06279-church_amid_the_bones-rwcvum5cp2w-1200x625.jpg?w=768&amp;h=400 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>This genocide did not succeed.</p>
1373. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc05990-6_kids-rwcvcpum6-w-1200x723.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2203" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Six Armenian Children" alt="Six Armenian Children" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc05990-6_kids-rwcvcpum6-w-1200x723.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=723" width="1200" height="723" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc05990-6_kids-rwcvcpum6-w-1200x723.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc05990-6_kids-rwcvcpum6-w-1200x723.jpg?w=224&amp;h=135 224w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc05990-6_kids-rwcvcpum6-w-1200x723.jpg?w=854&amp;h=515 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc05990-6_kids-rwcvcpum6-w-1200x723.jpg?w=768&amp;h=463 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
1374. <hr />
1375. <p style="margin-top:60px;margin-bottom:20px;">Notes</p>
1376. <p>[1] Many many Turks do not deny it. 100,000 Turks marched after the assassination in Istanbul of Hrant Dink, a newspaper editor who spoke out against the denial, shouting “We are all Armenians.”   Even at the time, some Ottoman officials refused to carry out the extermination orders.</p>
1377. <p>[2] Hasan Cemal, the grandson of one of the 3 architects of the genocide, in a groundbreaking act of courage, wrote one of the first books acknowledging the genocide, and the role of his grandfather.   I came across it when it fell from the bag of a Turkish man on a plane.   He told me the story of the grandson and the book.</p>
1378. <p>[3] Armin T. Wegner was part of a German detachment stationed in the Ottoman Empire.   He witnessed, and secretly documented and photographed the desert death marches of Armenians during the height of the Armenian Genocide, for which he was arrested.   In Germany Armin Wegner later also denounced the persecution of Jews, for which he was imprisoned and tortured.   Few people one comes across in history have conducted themselves with the nobility and conscience of this man.   More on <a title="Armin T Wegner" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Armin_T._Wegner" target="_blank">Armin Wegner</a> here.</p>
1379. <hr />
1380. <hr />
1381. ]]></content:encoded>
1383. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/03/27/under-here-the-bones-of-the-innocent/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
1384. <slash:comments>40</slash:comments>
1388. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc05990-6_kids-rwcvcpum6-1-9-w-1200x628.jpg" />
1389. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc05990-6_kids-rwcvcpum6-1-9-w-1200x628.jpg" medium="image">
1390. <media:title type="html">Six Armenian Children  (1.9-1200x628)</media:title>
1391. </media:content>
1392.  
1393. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
1394. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
1395. </media:content>
1396.  
1397. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06047-3headstones-1911-1913-1917-rwcvum5cpw-1200x740.jpg" medium="image">
1398. <media:title type="html">Armenian Genocide - graves of three members of a family who died</media:title>
1399. </media:content>
1400.  
1401. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/genocide-church_amid_the_bones.jpg" medium="image">
1402. <media:title type="html">Echmiadzin - church amid the bones of the Genocide</media:title>
1403. </media:content>
1404.  
1405. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/two_armenian_boys-starved_to_death-1915-1916-armin_wegner.jpg" medium="image">
1406. <media:title type="html">Two Armenian Boys, starved to death</media:title>
1407. </media:content>
1408.  
1409. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/seeking_admittance-armenian_orphans_at_orphanage_gates.jpg" medium="image">
1410. <media:title type="html">Armenian children outside orphanage gates</media:title>
1411. </media:content>
1412.  
1413. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06287-kids_skipping_over_gravestones-jpcvum5cpw-1200x502.jpg" medium="image">
1414. <media:title type="html">Armenian Genocide - Echmiadzin - children skipping over gravestones</media:title>
1415. </media:content>
1416.  
1417. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc06279-church_amid_the_bones-rwcvum5cp2w-1200x625.jpg" medium="image">
1418. <media:title type="html">Church in Echmiadzin sitting amid bones of Armenian Genocide</media:title>
1419. </media:content>
1420.  
1421. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/dsc05990-6_kids-rwcvcpum6-w-1200x723.jpg" medium="image">
1422. <media:title type="html">Six Armenian Children</media:title>
1423. </media:content>
1424. </item>
1425. <item>
1426. <title>Still So Loved</title>
1427. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/03/10/still-so-loved/</link>
1428. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/03/10/still-so-loved/#comments</comments>
1430. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
1431. <pubDate>Sun, 10 Mar 2013 06:41:00 +0000</pubDate>
1432. <category><![CDATA[Walking Armenia]]></category>
1433. <category><![CDATA[Armenia]]></category>
1434. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
1435. <category><![CDATA[Cemetery]]></category>
1436. <category><![CDATA[headstones]]></category>
1437. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=1815</guid>
1438.  
1439. <description><![CDATA[The next morning in Vanadzor it was -6°C and clear, with the sweet smell of pine woodsmoke.   Old fruit&#8230;]]></description>
1440. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The next morning in Vanadzor it was -6°C and clear, with the sweet smell of pine woodsmoke.   Old fruit hung from leafless apple and pear trees. The cemetery was large and overgrown, with headstones that showed many who were born late 1800s, and an unusual number who died in 1952.   Must have been one of the tough years.   But what most struck me here, and in all Armenian cemeteries, was the many dual husband-wife headstones.</p>
1441. <p>These two were born in 1871 and 1878, but died together in 1952.   Matter of fact people from a different century and a different world:</p>
1442. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05701-two_centuries_together-rwcvumcp-854x517.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1810" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Armenian Cemetery - Two Centuries Together" alt="Armenian Cemetery - Two Centuries Together" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05701-two_centuries_together-rwcvumcp-854x517.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05701-two_centuries_together-rwcvumcp-854x517.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05701-two_centuries_together-rwcvumcp-854x517.jpg?w=223&amp;h=135 223w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05701-two_centuries_together-rwcvumcp-854x517.jpg?w=768&amp;h=465 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1443. <p>Many told a single story: the husband in uniform, killed in the 2nd World War as a young man, the wife dying 60 years later, an old woman:</p>
1444. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06052-died_in_war-rwcvumcp-854x555.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1814" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Armenian Cemetery - Man Died in War, Wife 60 Years Later" alt="Armenian Cemetery - Man Died in War, Wife 60 Years Later" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06052-died_in_war-rwcvumcp-854x555.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06052-died_in_war-rwcvumcp-854x555.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06052-died_in_war-rwcvumcp-854x555.jpg?w=208&amp;h=135 208w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06052-died_in_war-rwcvumcp-854x555.jpg?w=768&amp;h=499 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1445. <p>This one also spoke: the parents born in 1895 and 1897 had a son in 1921.   He was killed in 1941 and is shown in his uniform.   Despite this they somehow lived another 40 and 50 years:</p>
1446. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06051-father-mother-son1941-rwcvumcp-854x596.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1813" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Armenian Cemetery - Father, Mother, Son" alt="Armenian Cemetery - Father, Mother, Son" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06051-father-mother-son1941-rwcvumcp-854x596.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06051-father-mother-son1941-rwcvumcp-854x596.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06051-father-mother-son1941-rwcvumcp-854x596.jpg?w=193&amp;h=135 193w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06051-father-mother-son1941-rwcvumcp-854x596.jpg?w=768&amp;h=536 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1447. <p>Many many headstones had just a picture of the husband, and a space beside him waiting for his longer-lived wife.   This one, a man who lived from 1925-1979.   A coat and tie and a nice face etched in stone.   The space for his wife is still blank.   But everywhere around this headstone there are fresh and drying flowers.   This man, whose premature death only hints at the loss, must be still loved:</p>
1448. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc05706-waiting_man-rwcvumcp-1200.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-1955" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Still So Loved - Waiting Man" alt="Still So Loved - Waiting Man" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc05706-waiting_man-rwcvumcp-1200.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=945" width="1200" height="945" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc05706-waiting_man-rwcvumcp-1200.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc05706-waiting_man-rwcvumcp-1200.jpg?w=171&amp;h=135 171w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc05706-waiting_man-rwcvumcp-1200.jpg?w=854&amp;h=673 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc05706-waiting_man-rwcvumcp-1200.jpg?w=768&amp;h=605 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a> Who among us, 33 years after our death, will be still so loved?</p>
1449. <p style="text-align:right;">(events  29/Nov/2012)</p>
1450. <hr />
1451. ]]></content:encoded>
1453. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/03/10/still-so-loved/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
1454. <slash:comments>23</slash:comments>
1458. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc05706-waiting_man-rwcvumcp2-1-9-12001.jpg" />
1459. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc05706-waiting_man-rwcvumcp2-1-9-12001.jpg" medium="image">
1460. <media:title type="html">Still So Loved - Waiting Man  (1.9-1200)</media:title>
1461. </media:content>
1462.  
1463. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
1464. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
1465. </media:content>
1466.  
1467. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05701-two_centuries_together-rwcvumcp-854x517.jpg" medium="image">
1468. <media:title type="html">Armenian Cemetery - Two Centuries Together</media:title>
1469. </media:content>
1470.  
1471. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06052-died_in_war-rwcvumcp-854x555.jpg" medium="image">
1472. <media:title type="html">Armenian Cemetery - Man Died in War, Wife 60 Years Later</media:title>
1473. </media:content>
1474.  
1475. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06051-father-mother-son1941-rwcvumcp-854x596.jpg" medium="image">
1476. <media:title type="html">Armenian Cemetery - Father, Mother, Son</media:title>
1477. </media:content>
1478.  
1479. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc05706-waiting_man-rwcvumcp-1200.jpg" medium="image">
1480. <media:title type="html">Still So Loved - Waiting Man</media:title>
1481. </media:content>
1482. </item>
1483. <item>
1484. <title>A Very Good People</title>
1485. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/03/03/we-are-a-very-good-people/</link>
1486. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/03/03/we-are-a-very-good-people/#comments</comments>
1488. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
1489. <pubDate>Sun, 03 Mar 2013 11:46:35 +0000</pubDate>
1490. <category><![CDATA[Walking Armenia]]></category>
1491. <category><![CDATA[Akhtala]]></category>
1492. <category><![CDATA[Armwenia]]></category>
1493. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
1494. <category><![CDATA[church]]></category>
1495. <category><![CDATA[frescoes]]></category>
1496. <category><![CDATA[monastery]]></category>
1497. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=1756</guid>
1498.  
1499. <description><![CDATA[I am not a man given greatly to prayer.  In a tight situation where others pray for help and guidance,&#8230;]]></description>
1500. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am not a man given greatly to prayer.  In a tight situation where others pray for help and guidance, I curse.  Serious, thorough, air-shaking curses.  The kind of cursing that may save your life but will condemn you to hell. <strong><sup>[1]</sup></strong></p>
1501. <p>But entering an Armenian church, even I go quiet and lower my eyes.  In an Armenian church, you are accompanied by saints:</p>
1502. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06175-watched_by_the_saints-rwcvcpum-1200.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-1964" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Watched By Saints" alt="Watched By Saints" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06175-watched_by_the_saints-rwcvcpum-1200.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=798" width="1200" height="798" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06175-watched_by_the_saints-rwcvcpum-1200.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06175-watched_by_the_saints-rwcvcpum-1200.jpg?w=203&amp;h=135 203w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06175-watched_by_the_saints-rwcvcpum-1200.jpg?w=854&amp;h=568 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06175-watched_by_the_saints-rwcvcpum-1200.jpg?w=768&amp;h=511 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a></p>
1503. <p>Walking in, <a title="The Light of the Gods" href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/02/02/the-light-of-the-gods/" target="_blank">you cross the bones of saints</a>.  As you kneel, they watch over you:</p>
1504. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06165-ancient_place_to_pray-rwcvcpum-854x162.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1751" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Akhtala - main - ancient_place_to_pray" alt="Akhtala - main - ancient_place_to_pray" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06165-ancient_place_to_pray-rwcvcpum-854x162.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06165-ancient_place_to_pray-rwcvcpum-854x162.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06165-ancient_place_to_pray-rwcvcpum-854x162.jpg?w=180&amp;h=135 180w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06165-ancient_place_to_pray-rwcvcpum-854x162.jpg?w=768&amp;h=577 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1505. <p>Inside you normally buy a few candles, put them in a flat bed of sand covered in water, and light them.  The light that shines, shines for everyone:</p>
1506. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06180-in_the_presence_of_the_light-rwcvum-854x635.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1754" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Akhtala - Candles - In_the_Presence_of_the_Light" alt="Akhtala - Candles - In_the_Presence_of_the_Light" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06180-in_the_presence_of_the_light-rwcvum-854x635.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06180-in_the_presence_of_the_light-rwcvum-854x635.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06180-in_the_presence_of_the_light-rwcvum-854x635.jpg?w=180&amp;h=135 180w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06180-in_the_presence_of_the_light-rwcvum-854x635.jpg?w=768&amp;h=577 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1507. <p>I asked an Armenian friend Marianna why they have so many saints.</p>
1508. <p style="padding-left:30px;"><em>&#8220;Because we are a very good people&#8221;</em></p>
1509. <p>As you leave, they remind you they walk with you:</p>
1510. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06189-surrounded_by_holiness-rwcvcpum-854x712.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1755" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Akhtala - exit - walking with holiness" alt="Akhtala - exit - walking with holiness" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06189-surrounded_by_holiness-rwcvcpum-854x712.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06189-surrounded_by_holiness-rwcvcpum-854x712.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06189-surrounded_by_holiness-rwcvcpum-854x712.jpg?w=162&amp;h=135 162w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06189-surrounded_by_holiness-rwcvcpum-854x712.jpg?w=840&amp;h=700 840w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06189-surrounded_by_holiness-rwcvcpum-854x712.jpg?w=768&amp;h=640 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1511. <hr />
1512. <p>[1]    Once, caught alone in a sandstorm in the Baluchi desert (on a motorbike), and thoroughly irritated (with myself) that I might not survive this latest stupidity, I broke out into such a loud and thorough cursing that I managed to keep moving through the turbulence, until the blowing sand ahead parted long enough for me to see the orange-red ball of the setting sun, and establish due west.</p>
1513. <p>West was where I was headed, and getting my bearings calmed me down.  In fact I had briefly forgotten I had a compass, and could have used that to get my bearings.  But, as those who have been there know, faced with death, one forgets one&#8217;s compass.</p>
1514. <hr />
1515. ]]></content:encoded>
1517. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/03/03/we-are-a-very-good-people/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
1518. <slash:comments>10</slash:comments>
1522. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06175-watched_by_the_saints-rwcvcpum-1-9-1200.jpg" />
1523. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06175-watched_by_the_saints-rwcvcpum-1-9-1200.jpg" medium="image">
1524. <media:title type="html">Watched By Saints (1.9-1200)</media:title>
1525. </media:content>
1526.  
1527. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
1528. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
1529. </media:content>
1530.  
1531. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/dsc06175-watched_by_the_saints-rwcvcpum-1200.jpg" medium="image">
1532. <media:title type="html">Watched By Saints</media:title>
1533. </media:content>
1534.  
1535. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06165-ancient_place_to_pray-rwcvcpum-854x162.jpg" medium="image">
1536. <media:title type="html">Akhtala - main - ancient_place_to_pray</media:title>
1537. </media:content>
1538.  
1539. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06180-in_the_presence_of_the_light-rwcvum-854x635.jpg" medium="image">
1540. <media:title type="html">Akhtala - Candles - In_the_Presence_of_the_Light</media:title>
1541. </media:content>
1542.  
1543. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06189-surrounded_by_holiness-rwcvcpum-854x712.jpg" medium="image">
1544. <media:title type="html">Akhtala - exit - walking with holiness</media:title>
1545. </media:content>
1546. </item>
1547. <item>
1548. <title>Our Factories Deserted Us II</title>
1549. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/02/26/our-factories-deserted-us-ii/</link>
1550. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/02/26/our-factories-deserted-us-ii/#comments</comments>
1552. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
1553. <pubDate>Tue, 26 Feb 2013 03:12:12 +0000</pubDate>
1554. <category><![CDATA[Walking Armenia]]></category>
1555. <category><![CDATA[Armenia]]></category>
1556. <category><![CDATA[de-industrialization]]></category>
1557. <category><![CDATA[housing]]></category>
1558. <category><![CDATA[poverty]]></category>
1559. <category><![CDATA[shipping containers]]></category>
1560. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=1656</guid>
1561.  
1562. <description><![CDATA[Where would we live if we suddenly became de-industrialized, as Armenia became de-industrialized after the fall of the Soviet Union?&#160;&#8230;]]></description>
1563. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Where would we live if we suddenly became de-industrialized, as <a title="Our Factories Deserted&nbsp;Us" href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/02/18/our-factories-deserted-us/" target="_blank">Armenia became de-industrialized</a> after the fall of the Soviet Union?&nbsp; If our factories deserted us?&nbsp; If much of our infrastructure fell into disuse?</p>
1564. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05418-disused_container_house-cpum-854x473.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1728" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" alt="Disused, sunk carriage" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05418-disused_container_house-cpum-854x473.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05418-disused_container_house-cpum-854x473.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05418-disused_container_house-cpum-854x473.jpg?w=242&amp;h=135 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05418-disused_container_house-cpum-854x473.jpg?w=768&amp;h=425 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1565. <p>We would convert whatever we had.&nbsp; Live in the shells left behind.&nbsp; In old railway carriages:</p>
1566. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05872-green_house-debed-cpum-854x614.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1733" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" alt="Armenia - Debed Valley - Green Carriage used as House" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05872-green_house-debed-cpum-854x614.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05872-green_house-debed-cpum-854x614.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05872-green_house-debed-cpum-854x614.jpg?w=188&amp;h=135 188w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05872-green_house-debed-cpum-854x614.jpg?w=768&amp;h=552 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1567. <p>In containers once used for exporting our products:</p>
1568. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05544-container_yellow-cpum-864x415.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1732" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" alt="Armenia - Yellow Container House" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05544-container_yellow-cpum-864x415.jpg?w=860&#038;h=413" width="860" height="413" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05544-container_yellow-cpum-864x415.jpg?w=860&amp;h=413 860w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05544-container_yellow-cpum-864x415.jpg?w=242&amp;h=116 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05544-container_yellow-cpum-864x415.jpg?w=854&amp;h=410 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05544-container_yellow-cpum-864x415.jpg?w=768&amp;h=369 768w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05544-container_yellow-cpum-864x415.jpg 864w" sizes="(max-width: 860px) 100vw, 860px" /></a></p>
1569. <p>and metal boxes once used for road-freight, now not needed.&nbsp; We would paint them and hang curtains:</p>
1570. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05541-containers-green_blue-cpum-864x312.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1731" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" alt="Armenia - Container houses" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05541-containers-green_blue-cpum-864x312.jpg?w=860&#038;h=310" width="860" height="310" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05541-containers-green_blue-cpum-864x312.jpg?w=858&amp;h=310 858w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05541-containers-green_blue-cpum-864x312.jpg?w=242&amp;h=87 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05541-containers-green_blue-cpum-864x312.jpg?w=854&amp;h=308 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05541-containers-green_blue-cpum-864x312.jpg?w=768&amp;h=277 768w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05541-containers-green_blue-cpum-864x312.jpg 864w" sizes="(max-width: 860px) 100vw, 860px" /></a></p>
1571. <p>Of course many live much better than this.&nbsp; But those who claimed and converted these artifacts of a lost industrial era also live better than many:</p>
1572. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05426-pink_container-cpum-854x499.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1730" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" alt="Hill with house and pink metal building" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05426-pink_container-cpum-854x499.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05426-pink_container-cpum-854x499.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05426-pink_container-cpum-854x499.jpg?w=231&amp;h=135 231w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05426-pink_container-cpum-854x499.jpg?w=768&amp;h=449 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1573. <hr />
1574. ]]></content:encoded>
1576. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/02/26/our-factories-deserted-us-ii/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
1577. <slash:comments>5</slash:comments>
1581. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/dsc05418-disused_container_house-crop-242x134.jpg" />
1582. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/dsc05418-disused_container_house-crop-242x134.jpg" medium="image">
1583. <media:title type="html">Armenia: Disused Carriage 242x134</media:title>
1584. </media:content>
1585.  
1586. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
1587. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
1588. </media:content>
1589.  
1590. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05418-disused_container_house-cpum-854x473.jpg" medium="image">
1591. <media:title type="html">Disused, sunk carriage</media:title>
1592. </media:content>
1593.  
1594. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05872-green_house-debed-cpum-854x614.jpg" medium="image">
1595. <media:title type="html">Armenia - Debed Valley - Green Carriage used as House</media:title>
1596. </media:content>
1597.  
1598. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05544-container_yellow-cpum-864x415.jpg" medium="image">
1599. <media:title type="html">Armenia - Yellow Container House</media:title>
1600. </media:content>
1601.  
1602. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05541-containers-green_blue-cpum-864x312.jpg" medium="image">
1603. <media:title type="html">Armenia - Container houses</media:title>
1604. </media:content>
1605.  
1606. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05426-pink_container-cpum-854x499.jpg" medium="image">
1607. <media:title type="html">Hill with house and pink metal building</media:title>
1608. </media:content>
1609. </item>
1610. <item>
1611. <title>Our Factories Deserted Us</title>
1612. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/02/18/our-factories-deserted-us/</link>
1613. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/02/18/our-factories-deserted-us/#comments</comments>
1615. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
1616. <pubDate>Mon, 18 Feb 2013 10:43:35 +0000</pubDate>
1617. <category><![CDATA[Walking Armenia]]></category>
1618. <category><![CDATA[Armenia]]></category>
1619. <category><![CDATA[corruption]]></category>
1620. <category><![CDATA[oligarchy]]></category>
1621. <category><![CDATA[poverty]]></category>
1622. <category><![CDATA[unemployment]]></category>
1623. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=1231</guid>
1624.  
1625. <description><![CDATA[Factories closed all over Armenia.&#160; Abandoned, overgrown factories: As far as the eye can see: After Chernobyl Armenia closed its&#8230;]]></description>
1626. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Factories closed all over Armenia.&nbsp; Abandoned, overgrown factories:</p>
1627. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/deserted_factories_2-cpum-854x511.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1721" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Armenia - Deserted Factories" alt="Armenia - Deserted Factories" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/deserted_factories_2-cpum-854x511.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/deserted_factories_2-cpum-854x511.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/deserted_factories_2-cpum-854x511.jpg?w=226&amp;h=135 226w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/deserted_factories_2-cpum-854x511.jpg?w=768&amp;h=460 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1628. <p>As far as the eye can see:</p>
1629. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/deserted_factories_along_debed_road-cpum-854x326.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1722" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Armenia - Deserted Factories Along Debed Valley Rd" alt="Armenia - Deserted Factories Along Debed Valley Rd" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/deserted_factories_along_debed_road-cpum-854x326.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/deserted_factories_along_debed_road-cpum-854x326.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/deserted_factories_along_debed_road-cpum-854x326.jpg?w=242&amp;h=92 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/deserted_factories_along_debed_road-cpum-854x326.jpg?w=768&amp;h=293 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1630. <p>After Chernobyl Armenia closed its own nuclear power plant.&nbsp; Then came the collapse of the Soviet Union, the debilitating war with Azerbaijan, the blockade by Turkey.&nbsp; There was no money and no power &#8211; and factories closed all over Armenia.&nbsp; Even the capital Yerevan went dark &#8211; for four years people were forced to forage in the mountainside for wood for heating and cooking.</p>
1631. <p>Even now, 18 years later, the rusting infrastructure:</p>
1632. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/wheelhouse-cpum-854x685.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1726" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Armenia - Deserted Wheelhouse" alt="Armenia - Deserted Wheelhouse" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/wheelhouse-cpum-854x685.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/wheelhouse-cpum-854x685.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/wheelhouse-cpum-854x685.jpg?w=168&amp;h=135 168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/wheelhouse-cpum-854x685.jpg?w=768&amp;h=616 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1633. <p>and bare hills remain.&nbsp; A post Soviet industrial landscape:</p>
1634. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/rolling_hills-debris-cpum-854x596.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1724" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" alt="Armenia - Rolling Hills - Soviet Debris" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/rolling_hills-debris-cpum-854x596.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/rolling_hills-debris-cpum-854x596.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/rolling_hills-debris-cpum-854x596.jpg?w=193&amp;h=135 193w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/rolling_hills-debris-cpum-854x596.jpg?w=768&amp;h=536 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1635. <p>Mostly these factories have not re-opened, people just live among them.&nbsp; The white sign says &#8216;to rent&#8217;:</p>
1636. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/old_metal_bldg_on_hill-cpum-854x488.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1723" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" alt="Armenia - Hill with house and old metal building" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/old_metal_bldg_on_hill-cpum-854x488.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/old_metal_bldg_on_hill-cpum-854x488.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/old_metal_bldg_on_hill-cpum-854x488.jpg?w=236&amp;h=135 236w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/old_metal_bldg_on_hill-cpum-854x488.jpg?w=768&amp;h=439 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1637. <p>So why has Armenia not recovered?&nbsp;&nbsp; A corrupt oligarchy runs the country for itself &#8211; Armenia is ranked 105th out of 176 countries on Transparency International&#8217;s corruption index, in the distinguished company of Gambia, Kosovo and Mali.</p>
1638. <p>So World Bank money gets misused, the average wage is $300 and 36% of the population lives below the poverty line &#8211; in 2009 $85 / year.&nbsp; Yes, that is 23c / day.</p>
1639. <p>This type of government beggars not only the present generation, but the next:&nbsp; youth unemployment is 57% &#8211; no.1 in the world &#8211; higher even than the miserable West Bank &#8211;&nbsp; despite 99.6% literacy.</p>
1640. <p>So abandoned by their factories, and abandoned by their government, Armenians work their land:</p>
1641. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/boy_with_sheep-cpum-854x505.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1720" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" alt="Armenia - boy with sheep" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/boy_with_sheep-cpum-854x505.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/boy_with_sheep-cpum-854x505.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/boy_with_sheep-cpum-854x505.jpg?w=228&amp;h=135 228w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/boy_with_sheep-cpum-854x505.jpg?w=768&amp;h=454 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1642. <p>but face a road that this hard-working, well-educated, decent people don&#8217;t deserve:</p>
1643. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/shelter_if_needed-abandoned_car-cpum-854x447.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1725" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" alt="Armenia - abandoned car on lonely road" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/shelter_if_needed-abandoned_car-cpum-854x447.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/shelter_if_needed-abandoned_car-cpum-854x447.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/shelter_if_needed-abandoned_car-cpum-854x447.jpg?w=242&amp;h=127 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/shelter_if_needed-abandoned_car-cpum-854x447.jpg?w=768&amp;h=402 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1644. <hr />
1645. ]]></content:encoded>
1647. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/02/18/our-factories-deserted-us/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
1648. <slash:comments>8</slash:comments>
1652. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/rolling_hills-debris-cpum-242x135.jpg" />
1653. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/rolling_hills-debris-cpum-242x135.jpg" medium="image">
1654. <media:title type="html">rolling_hills-debris-cpum-242x135</media:title>
1655. </media:content>
1656.  
1657. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
1658. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
1659. </media:content>
1660.  
1661. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/deserted_factories_2-cpum-854x511.jpg" medium="image">
1662. <media:title type="html">Armenia - Deserted Factories</media:title>
1663. </media:content>
1664.  
1665. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/deserted_factories_along_debed_road-cpum-854x326.jpg" medium="image">
1666. <media:title type="html">Armenia - Deserted Factories Along Debed Valley Rd</media:title>
1667. </media:content>
1668.  
1669. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/wheelhouse-cpum-854x685.jpg" medium="image">
1670. <media:title type="html">Armenia - Deserted Wheelhouse</media:title>
1671. </media:content>
1672.  
1673. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/rolling_hills-debris-cpum-854x596.jpg" medium="image">
1674. <media:title type="html">Armenia - Rolling Hills - Soviet Debris</media:title>
1675. </media:content>
1676.  
1677. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/old_metal_bldg_on_hill-cpum-854x488.jpg" medium="image">
1678. <media:title type="html">Armenia - Hill with house and old metal building</media:title>
1679. </media:content>
1680.  
1681. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/boy_with_sheep-cpum-854x505.jpg" medium="image">
1682. <media:title type="html">Armenia - boy with sheep</media:title>
1683. </media:content>
1684.  
1685. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/shelter_if_needed-abandoned_car-cpum-854x447.jpg" medium="image">
1686. <media:title type="html">Armenia - abandoned car on lonely road</media:title>
1687. </media:content>
1688. </item>
1689. <item>
1690. <title>I Finally Understand</title>
1691. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/02/10/i-finally-understand/</link>
1692. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/02/10/i-finally-understand/#comments</comments>
1694. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
1695. <pubDate>Sun, 10 Feb 2013 11:32:28 +0000</pubDate>
1696. <category><![CDATA[Walking Armenia]]></category>
1697. <category><![CDATA[Alaverdi]]></category>
1698. <category><![CDATA[Armenia]]></category>
1699. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
1700. <category><![CDATA[deforestation]]></category>
1701. <category><![CDATA[industry]]></category>
1702. <category><![CDATA[walking]]></category>
1703. <category><![CDATA[wasteland]]></category>
1704. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=1182</guid>
1705.  
1706. <description><![CDATA[There was apricot jam from their apricot tree, pears, apples, plums and walnuts from their garden, and a large grandmother&#8230;]]></description>
1707. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>There was apricot jam from their apricot tree, pears, apples, plums and walnuts from their garden, and a large grandmother in black, rolling cabbage rolls.</p>
1708. <p>A picture of their son in uniform was on the mantelpiece, a cross leaning against it.&nbsp; I did not need to ask &#8211; many Armenian mantelpieces have a crucifix leaning against a picture of a 20-something boy in uniform.&nbsp; It was their son, killed like so many other sons, in the 1988-94 war with Azerbaijan.</p>
1709. <p>These people were my hosts. Around the place were an accordion, a violin (which the husband used to teach), dusty Beatles records, a 1950s gramophone, books in Russian, English and Armenian, carpets on the wall.</p>
1710. <p>There was always food out somewhere and food being cooked.&nbsp; That night at dinner:</p>
1711. <p style="padding-left:30px;"><em>&#8220;We have homemade vodka *and* homemade wine.&#8221;</em><br />
1712. <em> &#8220;Ah, sorry, I don&#8217;t drink.&#8221;</em></p>
1713. <p>My host did not think this was worth discussing:</p>
1714. <p style="padding-left:30px;"><em>&#8220;You are in wrong country.&nbsp; You will drink&#8221;</em></p>
1715. <p>Hospitable people.&nbsp; Civilized people.&nbsp; All the greater pity that they live in a depressing, deforested, industrial wasteland.&nbsp; Left by the Soviets as they retreated from history:</p>
1716. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06060-chimney2-cpum-854x456.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1739" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Alaverdi - chimney" alt="Alaverdi - chimney" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06060-chimney2-cpum-854x456.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06060-chimney2-cpum-854x456.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06060-chimney2-cpum-854x456.jpg?w=242&amp;h=129 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06060-chimney2-cpum-854x456.jpg?w=768&amp;h=410 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1717. <p>Not just me who got depressed.&nbsp; An Armenian friend Aleksandr, posted here once, described it:</p>
1718. <p style="padding-left:30px;"><em>&#8220;Alaverdi&#8230;even food changes taste&#8230;suicide trigger&#8221;</em></p>
1719. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06077-alaverdi-industry-2-cpcvum-854x567.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1742" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Alaverdi - industry - copper mine" alt="Alaverdi - industry - copper mine" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06077-alaverdi-industry-2-cpcvum-854x567.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06077-alaverdi-industry-2-cpcvum-854x567.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06077-alaverdi-industry-2-cpcvum-854x567.jpg?w=203&amp;h=135 203w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06077-alaverdi-industry-2-cpcvum-854x567.jpg?w=768&amp;h=510 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1720. <p>Yet living here, this boy tending his pigs:</p>
1721. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05996-sarahart-boy_tending_pigs-cp-um-854x643.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1736" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Sarahart - boy_tending_pigs" alt="Sarahart - boy_tending_pigs" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05996-sarahart-boy_tending_pigs-cp-um-854x643.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05996-sarahart-boy_tending_pigs-cp-um-854x643.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05996-sarahart-boy_tending_pigs-cp-um-854x643.jpg?w=179&amp;h=135 179w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05996-sarahart-boy_tending_pigs-cp-um-854x643.jpg?w=768&amp;h=578 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1722. <p>One afternoon after walking on the plateau just above Alaverdi, I was hungry so hung around the Sarahart town square eating peanuts, bananas and dried apricots.&nbsp; I bought and ate apples and oranges from these people:</p>
1723. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06072-fruit_vendor-3-rwcpum-854x545.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1740" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Sanahin - fruit_vendors" alt="Sanahin - fruit_vendors" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06072-fruit_vendor-3-rwcpum-854x545.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06072-fruit_vendor-3-rwcpum-854x545.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06072-fruit_vendor-3-rwcpum-854x545.jpg?w=212&amp;h=135 212w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06072-fruit_vendor-3-rwcpum-854x545.jpg?w=768&amp;h=490 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1724. <p>though the gent on the left was unable to persuade me to buy any of his meat:</p>
1725. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06074-meat_chopper-cpum-854x642.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1741" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Sanahin - meat_chopper" alt="Sanahin - meat_chopper" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06074-meat_chopper-cpum-854x642.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06074-meat_chopper-cpum-854x642.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06074-meat_chopper-cpum-854x642.jpg?w=180&amp;h=135 180w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06074-meat_chopper-cpum-854x642.jpg?w=768&amp;h=577 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1726. <p>And this dual headstone, following the custom of husband and wife to be buried together:</p>
1727. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06040-dual_headstonesanahin_church-1-cpum-854x643.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1737" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Sanahin_church - dual_headstone" alt="Sanahin_church - dual_headstone" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06040-dual_headstonesanahin_church-1-cpum-854x643.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06040-dual_headstonesanahin_church-1-cpum-854x643.jpg 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06040-dual_headstonesanahin_church-1-cpum-854x643.jpg?w=179&amp;h=135 179w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06040-dual_headstonesanahin_church-1-cpum-854x643.jpg?w=768&amp;h=578 768w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /></a></p>
1728. <p>Even in death nice people, serious people, people worthy of respect:</p>
1729. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06040-dual_headstonesanahin_church-close-rwcvum-832x476.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1738" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Sanahin_church - dual_headstone - closeup" alt="Sanahin_church - dual_headstone - closeup" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06040-dual_headstonesanahin_church-close-rwcvum-832x476.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06040-dual_headstonesanahin_church-close-rwcvum-832x476.jpg 832w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06040-dual_headstonesanahin_church-close-rwcvum-832x476.jpg?w=236&amp;h=135 236w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06040-dual_headstonesanahin_church-close-rwcvum-832x476.jpg?w=768&amp;h=439 768w" sizes="(max-width: 832px) 100vw, 832px" /></a></p>
1730. <p>People who somehow have kept their souls despite the destructions of centuries and the desolations of today.&nbsp; I finally start to understand.&nbsp; Armenians.<br />
1731. <span style="color:#ffffff;">.</span></p>
1732. <hr />
1733. ]]></content:encoded>
1735. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/02/10/i-finally-understand/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
1736. <slash:comments>13</slash:comments>
1740. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06040-dual_headstonesanahin_church-close-rwcvum-832x476.jpg" />
1741. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06040-dual_headstonesanahin_church-close-rwcvum-832x476.jpg" medium="image">
1742. <media:title type="html">Sanahin_church - dual_headstone - closeup</media:title>
1743. </media:content>
1744.  
1745. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
1746. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
1747. </media:content>
1748.  
1749. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06060-chimney2-cpum-854x456.jpg" medium="image">
1750. <media:title type="html">Alaverdi - chimney</media:title>
1751. </media:content>
1752.  
1753. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06077-alaverdi-industry-2-cpcvum-854x567.jpg" medium="image">
1754. <media:title type="html">Alaverdi - industry - copper mine</media:title>
1755. </media:content>
1756.  
1757. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc05996-sarahart-boy_tending_pigs-cp-um-854x643.jpg" medium="image">
1758. <media:title type="html">Sarahart - boy_tending_pigs</media:title>
1759. </media:content>
1760.  
1761. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06072-fruit_vendor-3-rwcpum-854x545.jpg" medium="image">
1762. <media:title type="html">Sanahin - fruit_vendors</media:title>
1763. </media:content>
1764.  
1765. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06074-meat_chopper-cpum-854x642.jpg" medium="image">
1766. <media:title type="html">Sanahin - meat_chopper</media:title>
1767. </media:content>
1768.  
1769. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06040-dual_headstonesanahin_church-1-cpum-854x643.jpg" medium="image">
1770. <media:title type="html">Sanahin_church - dual_headstone</media:title>
1771. </media:content>
1772.  
1773. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dsc06040-dual_headstonesanahin_church-close-rwcvum-832x476.jpg" medium="image">
1774. <media:title type="html">Sanahin_church - dual_headstone - closeup</media:title>
1775. </media:content>
1776. </item>
1777. <item>
1778. <title>The Light of the Gods</title>
1779. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/02/02/the-light-of-the-gods/</link>
1780. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/02/02/the-light-of-the-gods/#comments</comments>
1782. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
1783. <pubDate>Sat, 02 Feb 2013 06:51:54 +0000</pubDate>
1784. <category><![CDATA[Walking Armenia]]></category>
1785. <category><![CDATA[Armenia]]></category>
1786. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
1787. <category><![CDATA[Haghpat]]></category>
1788. <category><![CDATA[monastery]]></category>
1789. <category><![CDATA[travel]]></category>
1790. <category><![CDATA[walking]]></category>
1791. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=1155</guid>
1792.  
1793. <description><![CDATA[From the light alone you know you are in a holy place: This is a place where you stand under&#8230;]]></description>
1794. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>From the light alone you know you are in a holy place:</p>
1795. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6147-haghpat-light_of_god-jpcuw-1200x797.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2217" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Haghpat church - Light of God" alt="Haghpat church - Light of God" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6147-haghpat-light_of_god-jpcuw-1200x797.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=797" width="1200" height="797" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6147-haghpat-light_of_god-jpcuw-1200x797.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6147-haghpat-light_of_god-jpcuw-1200x797.jpg?w=203&amp;h=135 203w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6147-haghpat-light_of_god-jpcuw-1200x797.jpg?w=854&amp;h=567 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6147-haghpat-light_of_god-jpcuw-1200x797.jpg?w=768&amp;h=510 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>This is a place where you stand under heaven in the hall of the ancient God:</p>
1796. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6136-haghpat-ancient_grace-rpuw-1200x844.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2215" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Haghpat Church - ancient grace" alt="Haghpat Church - ancient grace" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6136-haghpat-ancient_grace-rpuw-1200x844.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=844" width="1200" height="844" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6136-haghpat-ancient_grace-rpuw-1200x844.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6136-haghpat-ancient_grace-rpuw-1200x844.jpg?w=192&amp;h=135 192w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6136-haghpat-ancient_grace-rpuw-1200x844.jpg?w=854&amp;h=601 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6136-haghpat-ancient_grace-rpuw-1200x844.jpg?w=768&amp;h=540 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>These floor stones, carved with names, cover the graves of saints:</p>
1797. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6127-haghpat-entrance_stones-graves_of_saints-rpcuw-1200x838.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2214" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Haghpat Church - entrance stones - graves of saints" alt="Haghpat Church - entrance stones - graves of saints" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6127-haghpat-entrance_stones-graves_of_saints-rpcuw-1200x838.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=838" width="1200" height="838" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6127-haghpat-entrance_stones-graves_of_saints-rpcuw-1200x838.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6127-haghpat-entrance_stones-graves_of_saints-rpcuw-1200x838.jpg?w=193&amp;h=135 193w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6127-haghpat-entrance_stones-graves_of_saints-rpcuw-1200x838.jpg?w=854&amp;h=596 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6127-haghpat-entrance_stones-graves_of_saints-rpcuw-1200x838.jpg?w=768&amp;h=536 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>Cold but illuminated.  An inscription reminds us:</p>
1798. <p style="padding-left:30px;"><em>&#8220;You who enter through its door and prostrate yourself before the Cross, in your prayers remember us&#8230;who rest at the door &#8230;&#8221;</em></p>
1799. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6125-haghpat_interior-madonna_stones-rpcuw-1200x851.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2213" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Haghpat church - interior grave stones - Madonna" alt="Haghpat church - interior grave stones - Madonna" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6125-haghpat_interior-madonna_stones-rpcuw-1200x851.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=851" width="1200" height="851" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6125-haghpat_interior-madonna_stones-rpcuw-1200x851.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6125-haghpat_interior-madonna_stones-rpcuw-1200x851.jpg?w=190&amp;h=135 190w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6125-haghpat_interior-madonna_stones-rpcuw-1200x851.jpg?w=854&amp;h=606 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6125-haghpat_interior-madonna_stones-rpcuw-1200x851.jpg?w=768&amp;h=545 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>The Haghpat Monastery, built by the devout in 976, burnt by Mongols, burnt by Turks and burnt by Persians, seems to re-grow out of the ground.  Beautiful even on a gray winter day:</p>
1800. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6083-haghpat_church-growing_from_ground-rcpuw-1200x756.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2219" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Haghpat - church growing from ground" alt="Haghpat - church growing from ground" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6083-haghpat_church-growing_from_ground-rcpuw-1200x756.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=756" width="1200" height="756" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6083-haghpat_church-growing_from_ground-rcpuw-1200x756.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6083-haghpat_church-growing_from_ground-rcpuw-1200x756.jpg?w=214&amp;h=135 214w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6083-haghpat_church-growing_from_ground-rcpuw-1200x756.jpg?w=854&amp;h=538 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6083-haghpat_church-growing_from_ground-rcpuw-1200x756.jpg?w=768&amp;h=484 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>Supposedly built by the estranged son of the master who built the <a title="Man With Axe &amp; Carcass" href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/28/man-with-axe-carcass/" target="_blank">almost equally beautiful Sanahin Monastery</a>.  When the father walks across the valley and finally comes to see it, he says to the son he now understands:  the walls are solid, they will stand.  From this comes the name &#8220;Haghpat&#8221;.</p>
1801. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6114-haghpat-side_wall-middle_ages-rcupw-1200x734.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2212" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Haghpat Church - side wall" alt="Haghpat Church - side wall" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6114-haghpat-side_wall-middle_ages-rcupw-1200x734.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=734" width="1200" height="734" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6114-haghpat-side_wall-middle_ages-rcupw-1200x734.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6114-haghpat-side_wall-middle_ages-rcupw-1200x734.jpg?w=221&amp;h=135 221w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6114-haghpat-side_wall-middle_ages-rcupw-1200x734.jpg?w=854&amp;h=522 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6114-haghpat-side_wall-middle_ages-rcupw-1200x734.jpg?w=768&amp;h=470 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>As I stood on the edge of the valley, preparing to walk across back to Sanahin, I felt the soft breath of the middle ages on my neck:</p>
1802. <p style="text-align:right;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6091-haghpat-wall-mountains-rpcuw-1200x534.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-2211" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Haghpat - wall - mountains" alt="Haghpat - wall - mountains" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6091-haghpat-wall-mountains-rpcuw-1200x534.jpg?w=1200&#038;h=534" width="1200" height="534" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6091-haghpat-wall-mountains-rpcuw-1200x534.jpg 1200w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6091-haghpat-wall-mountains-rpcuw-1200x534.jpg?w=242&amp;h=108 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6091-haghpat-wall-mountains-rpcuw-1200x534.jpg?w=854&amp;h=380 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6091-haghpat-wall-mountains-rpcuw-1200x534.jpg?w=768&amp;h=342 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></a>(events  3/Dec/2012)</p>
1803. <p><span style="color:#ffffff;">.</span></p>
1804. <hr />
1805. ]]></content:encoded>
1807. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/02/02/the-light-of-the-gods/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
1808. <slash:comments>29</slash:comments>
1812. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/haghpat-entrance_stones-graves_of_saints-rwcpcvum-1-9-1200.jpg" />
1813. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/haghpat-entrance_stones-graves_of_saints-rwcpcvum-1-9-1200.jpg" medium="image">
1814. <media:title type="html">Haghpat Church - Entrance Stones - Graves of Saints  (1.9-1200)</media:title>
1815. </media:content>
1816.  
1817. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
1818. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
1819. </media:content>
1820.  
1821. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6147-haghpat-light_of_god-jpcuw-1200x797.jpg" medium="image">
1822. <media:title type="html">Haghpat church - Light of God</media:title>
1823. </media:content>
1824.  
1825. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6136-haghpat-ancient_grace-rpuw-1200x844.jpg" medium="image">
1826. <media:title type="html">Haghpat Church - ancient grace</media:title>
1827. </media:content>
1828.  
1829. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6127-haghpat-entrance_stones-graves_of_saints-rpcuw-1200x838.jpg" medium="image">
1830. <media:title type="html">Haghpat Church - entrance stones - graves of saints</media:title>
1831. </media:content>
1832.  
1833. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6125-haghpat_interior-madonna_stones-rpcuw-1200x851.jpg" medium="image">
1834. <media:title type="html">Haghpat church - interior grave stones - Madonna</media:title>
1835. </media:content>
1836.  
1837. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6083-haghpat_church-growing_from_ground-rcpuw-1200x756.jpg" medium="image">
1838. <media:title type="html">Haghpat - church growing from ground</media:title>
1839. </media:content>
1840.  
1841. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6114-haghpat-side_wall-middle_ages-rcupw-1200x734.jpg" medium="image">
1842. <media:title type="html">Haghpat Church - side wall</media:title>
1843. </media:content>
1844.  
1845. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/6091-haghpat-wall-mountains-rpcuw-1200x534.jpg" medium="image">
1846. <media:title type="html">Haghpat - wall - mountains</media:title>
1847. </media:content>
1848. </item>
1849. <item>
1850. <title>Man With Axe &#038; Carcass</title>
1851. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/28/man-with-axe-carcass/</link>
1852. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/28/man-with-axe-carcass/#comments</comments>
1854. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
1855. <pubDate>Mon, 28 Jan 2013 10:34:41 +0000</pubDate>
1856. <category><![CDATA[Walking Armenia]]></category>
1857. <category><![CDATA[Armenia]]></category>
1858. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
1859. <category><![CDATA[butchery]]></category>
1860. <category><![CDATA[monastery]]></category>
1861. <category><![CDATA[Sanahin]]></category>
1862. <category><![CDATA[walking]]></category>
1863. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=1122</guid>
1864.  
1865. <description><![CDATA[I ascended in an old, rusty, somewhat cracked, soviet-era cable car, from Alaverdi, an ugly mining town at the bottom&#8230;]]></description>
1866. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I ascended in an old, rusty, somewhat cracked, soviet-era cable car, from Alaverdi, an ugly mining town at the bottom of the valley, almost vertically to Sarahart, at the top of the plateau.&nbsp; A kilometre down was the dust and industry I might soon be forced to disturb.&nbsp; Some idiot guide-book had suggested this was a “fun way to ride” to Sarahart.&nbsp; While there are a few<a title="criminal understatement by guide-book wreiters" href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2012/05/29/biblical-rain-apocalytic-shabbiness/" target="_blank"> guide-book writers</a> I would take to lunch, the vast majority should be vaporized as soon as appropriate hardware becomes available.</p>
1867. <p>Exiting at the top, there were cows, chickens and some rundown gardens.&nbsp; The cows waiting, as usual, for events to take a turn in their favor, and the chickens, as usual, going about their business with their usual recklessness.</p>
1868. <p>Walking a bit further uphill, the town square was dominated by fruit sellers selling fruit from cardboard boxes and a man with an ax and a carcass selling meat by the chunk:</p>
1869. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/28/man-with-axe-carcass/sarahart_square/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1124"><img loading="lazy" class=" wp-image-1124 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;" title="Sarahart Square - Fruit Sellers, Meat Sellers - Click to Enlarge" alt="Sarahart Square - Fruit Sellers, Meat Sellers" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sarahart_square.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=587" width="1168" height="587" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sarahart_square.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sarahart_square.jpg?w=242&amp;h=122 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sarahart_square.jpg?w=854&amp;h=429 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sarahart_square.jpg?w=768&amp;h=386 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
1870. <p>A poor town, tumbling but nice houses:</p>
1871. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/28/man-with-axe-carcass/sanahin-green_house/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1118"><img loading="lazy" class=" wp-image-1118 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;" title="Sanahin - Green? Blue? House - Click to Enlarge" alt="Sanahin - Green? Blue? House" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-green_house.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=616" width="1168" height="616" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-green_house.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-green_house.jpg?w=242&amp;h=128 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-green_house.jpg?w=854&amp;h=450 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-green_house.jpg?w=768&amp;h=405 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
1872. <p>people making a living from their produce and livestock:</p>
1873. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/28/man-with-axe-carcass/sanahin-boy_tending_pigs/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1117"><img loading="lazy" class="wp-image-1117 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;" title="Sanahin - Boy Tending Family Pigs - Click to Enlarge" alt="Sanahin - Boy Tending Family Pigs" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-boy_tending_pigs.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=659" width="1168" height="659" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-boy_tending_pigs.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-boy_tending_pigs.jpg?w=239&amp;h=135 239w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-boy_tending_pigs.jpg?w=854&amp;h=482 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-boy_tending_pigs.jpg?w=768&amp;h=433 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
1874. <p>Yesterday, not far from here, I had seen a man grazing his 12 cattle, and today scattered boys each grazing a few pigs.&nbsp; Men stood around idly, hitching their pants.&nbsp; An economist would sum it up, as he would sum up poor places everywhere:&nbsp; low productivity of labor.</p>
1875. <p>A place whose only frill had long deserted it:</p>
1876. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/28/man-with-axe-carcass/sanahin-old_cafe/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1119"><img loading="lazy" class="wp-image-1119 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;" title="Sanahin - There Once Was a Cafe - Click to Enlarge" alt="Sanahin - There Once Was a Cafe" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-old_cafe.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=602" width="1168" height="602" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-old_cafe.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-old_cafe.jpg?w=242&amp;h=125 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-old_cafe.jpg?w=854&amp;h=440 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-old_cafe.jpg?w=768&amp;h=396 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
1877. <p>except perhaps for the long-distance bus whose passengers push-started it at the beginning of their journeys, before relaxing inside their curtained windows:</p>
1878. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/28/man-with-axe-carcass/sarahart-yellow_bus/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1125"><img loading="lazy" class="wp-image-1125 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;" title="Sarahart - Long Distance Bus With Curtains - Click to Enlarge" alt="Sarahart - Long Distance Bus With Curtains" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sarahart-yellow_bus.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=566" width="1168" height="566" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sarahart-yellow_bus.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sarahart-yellow_bus.jpg?w=242&amp;h=117 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sarahart-yellow_bus.jpg?w=854&amp;h=414 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sarahart-yellow_bus.jpg?w=768&amp;h=372 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
1879. <p>Another 30 minutes and I reached my objective:&nbsp; the 10th century Sanahin Monastery.&nbsp; The first building was built in 928, the library in 1062 and the medical school in 1100.&nbsp; Once an empire, now a village.</p>
1880. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/28/man-with-axe-carcass/sanahin-quiet_church/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1121"><img loading="lazy" class=" wp-image-1121 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;" title="Sanahin Monastery - Once Wealthier - Click to Enlarge" alt="Sanahin Monastery - Once Wealthier" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-quiet_church.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=612" width="1168" height="612" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-quiet_church.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-quiet_church.jpg?w=242&amp;h=127 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-quiet_church.jpg?w=854&amp;h=447 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-quiet_church.jpg?w=768&amp;h=402 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
1881. <p>The buildings were squat, like a fortress, but harmonious, and now with moss on the roofs and creepers coming down the walls.&nbsp; The insides held the scattered dust of learning in a quiet, cool peace.</p>
1882. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/28/man-with-axe-carcass/sanahin-ancient_quietness/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1116"><img loading="lazy" class=" wp-image-1116 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;" title="Sanahin Monastery - Dust of Learning - Click to Enlarge" alt="Sanahin Monastery - Dust of Learning" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-ancient_quietness.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=720" width="1168" height="720" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-ancient_quietness.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-ancient_quietness.jpg?w=219&amp;h=135 219w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-ancient_quietness.jpg?w=854&amp;h=526 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-ancient_quietness.jpg?w=768&amp;h=473 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
1883. <p>A path led up to a cemetery.&nbsp; The stones on the right are actually gravestones:</p>
1884. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/28/man-with-axe-carcass/sanahin-steps_leading_to_cemetery/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1123"><img loading="lazy" class=" wp-image-1123 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;" title="Sanahin Monastery - Path Leading to Cemetery - Click to Enlarge" alt="Sanahin Monastery - Path Leading to Cemetery" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-steps_leading_to_cemetery.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=741" width="1168" height="741" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-steps_leading_to_cemetery.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-steps_leading_to_cemetery.jpg?w=213&amp;h=135 213w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-steps_leading_to_cemetery.jpg?w=854&amp;h=542 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-steps_leading_to_cemetery.jpg?w=768&amp;h=487 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
1885. <p>From this cemetery souls can roam, like me, the surrounding mountains, valleys and ancient holy places:</p>
1886. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/28/man-with-axe-carcass/sanahin-overlooking_valley/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1120"><img loading="lazy" class=" wp-image-1120 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;" title="Sanahin - Cemetery Overlooking the Valley - Click to Enlarge" alt="Sanahin - Cemetery Overlooking the Valley" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-overlooking_valley.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=624" width="1168" height="624" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-overlooking_valley.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-overlooking_valley.jpg?w=242&amp;h=129 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-overlooking_valley.jpg?w=854&amp;h=456 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-overlooking_valley.jpg?w=768&amp;h=410 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
1887. <p>As I walked around the area, on every near hilltop I could see ruins.&nbsp; But the roads now were lined with fruit trees.&nbsp; A man driving smelly, unshorn sheep.&nbsp; And the sound of a braying donkey.</p>
1888. <p style="text-align:right;"><em>(events 2/Dec/2012)</em></p>
1889. <p>&nbsp;</p>
1890. <hr />
1891. ]]></content:encoded>
1893. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/28/man-with-axe-carcass/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
1894. <slash:comments>7</slash:comments>
1898. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-ancient_quietness.jpg" />
1899. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-ancient_quietness.jpg" medium="image">
1900. <media:title type="html">Sanahin Monastery - Dust of Learning</media:title>
1901. </media:content>
1902.  
1903. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
1904. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
1905. </media:content>
1906.  
1907. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sarahart_square.jpg" medium="image">
1908. <media:title type="html">Sarahart Square - Fruit Sellers, Meat Sellers - Click to Enlarge</media:title>
1909. </media:content>
1910.  
1911. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-green_house.jpg" medium="image">
1912. <media:title type="html">Sanahin - Green? Blue? House - Click to Enlarge</media:title>
1913. </media:content>
1914.  
1915. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-boy_tending_pigs.jpg" medium="image">
1916. <media:title type="html">Sanahin - Boy Tending Family Pigs - Click to Enlarge</media:title>
1917. </media:content>
1918.  
1919. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-old_cafe.jpg" medium="image">
1920. <media:title type="html">Sanahin - There Once Was a Cafe - Click to Enlarge</media:title>
1921. </media:content>
1922.  
1923. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sarahart-yellow_bus.jpg" medium="image">
1924. <media:title type="html">Sarahart - Long Distance Bus With Curtains - Click to Enlarge</media:title>
1925. </media:content>
1926.  
1927. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-quiet_church.jpg" medium="image">
1928. <media:title type="html">Sanahin Monastery - Once Wealthier - Click to Enlarge</media:title>
1929. </media:content>
1930.  
1931. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-ancient_quietness.jpg" medium="image">
1932. <media:title type="html">Sanahin Monastery - Dust of Learning - Click to Enlarge</media:title>
1933. </media:content>
1934.  
1935. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-steps_leading_to_cemetery.jpg" medium="image">
1936. <media:title type="html">Sanahin Monastery - Path Leading to Cemetery - Click to Enlarge</media:title>
1937. </media:content>
1938.  
1939. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sanahin-overlooking_valley.jpg" medium="image">
1940. <media:title type="html">Sanahin - Cemetery Overlooking the Valley - Click to Enlarge</media:title>
1941. </media:content>
1942. </item>
1943. <item>
1944. <title>Born 1840, Died 1840</title>
1945. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/18/born-1840-died-1840/</link>
1946. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/18/born-1840-died-1840/#comments</comments>
1948. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
1949. <pubDate>Fri, 18 Jan 2013 16:49:00 +0000</pubDate>
1950. <category><![CDATA[Walking Armenia]]></category>
1951. <category><![CDATA[Armenia]]></category>
1952. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
1953. <category><![CDATA[monastery]]></category>
1954. <category><![CDATA[Odzun]]></category>
1955. <category><![CDATA[ruins]]></category>
1956. <category><![CDATA[walking]]></category>
1957. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=1100</guid>
1958.  
1959. <description><![CDATA[The church at Odzun, built in the 6th century, still stands: and is still used.&#160; An ancient Madonna from an&#8230;]]></description>
1960. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The church at Odzun, built in the 6th century, still stands:</p>
1961. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/odzun_church.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="wp-image-1098 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Odzun 6th Century Church  - click to enlarge" alt="Odzun 6th Century Church" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/odzun_church.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=463" width="1168" height="463" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/odzun_church.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/odzun_church.jpg?w=242&amp;h=96 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/odzun_church.jpg?w=854&amp;h=339 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/odzun_church.jpg?w=768&amp;h=304 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
1962. <p>and is still used.&nbsp; An ancient Madonna from an ancient church:</p>
1963. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/odzun-ancient_church-ancient_madonna.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="wp-image-1097 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Odzun Ancient Church - Ancient Madonna  - click to enlarge" alt="Odzun Ancient Church - Ancient Madonna" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/odzun-ancient_church-ancient_madonna.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=623" width="1168" height="623" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/odzun-ancient_church-ancient_madonna.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/odzun-ancient_church-ancient_madonna.jpg?w=242&amp;h=129 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/odzun-ancient_church-ancient_madonna.jpg?w=854&amp;h=456 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/odzun-ancient_church-ancient_madonna.jpg?w=768&amp;h=410 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
1964. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/1840-lived_one_year.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="alignright size-full wp-image-1093" style="border:3px solid black;" title="Child born 1840, died 1840  - click to enlarge" alt="Child born 1840, died 1840" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/1840-lived_one_year.jpg?w=860"   srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/1840-lived_one_year.jpg 400w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/1840-lived_one_year.jpg?w=118&amp;h=135 118w" sizes="(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px" /></a>The cemetery outside has a testament to Armenia&#8217;s ancient power:<br />
1965. a gift from an Indian king in the 8th century,<br />
1966. and modern subjugation:<br />
1967. the graves of those who were born and died while Armenia was still under the Ottoman empire<br />
1968. just before the modern age was born.</p>
1969. <p style="margin-top:80px;margin-bottom:20px;">Many of the graves speak of tougher times, of children who died in the same year they were born.</p>
1970. <p style="margin-top:240px;margin-bottom:20px;">The village of Odzun now seems a typical Armenian farming community, hay and dung piled high, men still moving firewood by donkey, and metal baths outside houses:</p>
1971. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/house_with_bath.jpg" target="_blank"><img loading="lazy" class="wp-image-1095 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="House with Bath outside  - click to enlarge" alt="House with Bath outside" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/house_with_bath.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=559" width="1168" height="559" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/house_with_bath.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/house_with_bath.jpg?w=242&amp;h=116 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/house_with_bath.jpg?w=854&amp;h=409 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/house_with_bath.jpg?w=768&amp;h=368 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
1972. <p>though I never worked out whether these were actually for bathing.&nbsp; Nearby the Horomayri Monastery, a ruin on the edge of the plateau, facing mountains:</p>
1973. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/18/born-1840-died-1840/odzun-monastery_on_edge_of_cliff/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1099"><img loading="lazy" class="wp-image-1099 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Odzun-Ancient Monastery at Edge of Cliff  - click to enlarge" alt="Odzun-Ancient Monastery at Edge of Cliff" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/odzun-monastery_on_edge_of_cliff.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=654" width="1168" height="654" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/odzun-monastery_on_edge_of_cliff.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/odzun-monastery_on_edge_of_cliff.jpg?w=242&amp;h=135 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/odzun-monastery_on_edge_of_cliff.jpg?w=854&amp;h=478 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/odzun-monastery_on_edge_of_cliff.jpg?w=768&amp;h=430 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
1974. <p>Edge of a plateau really means at the edge:</p>
1975. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/18/born-1840-died-1840/monastery-edge_of_cliff/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1096"><img loading="lazy" class="wp-image-1096 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Monastery at Edge of Cliff  - click to enlarge" alt="Monastery at Edge of Cliff" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/monastery-edge_of_cliff.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=596" width="1168" height="596" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/monastery-edge_of_cliff.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/monastery-edge_of_cliff.jpg?w=242&amp;h=123 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/monastery-edge_of_cliff.jpg?w=854&amp;h=436 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/monastery-edge_of_cliff.jpg?w=768&amp;h=392 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
1976. <p>But I left depressed that such an ancient, mountain-facing house of prayer could be so surrounded by rubbish:</p>
1977. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/18/born-1840-died-1840/ancient_monastery-rubbish_dump/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1094"><img loading="lazy" class="wp-image-1094 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:48px;" title="Ancient Monastery in Rubbish Dump  - click to enlarge" alt="Ancient Monastery in Rubbish Dump" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/ancient_monastery-rubbish_dump.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=470" width="1168" height="470" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/ancient_monastery-rubbish_dump.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/ancient_monastery-rubbish_dump.jpg?w=242&amp;h=97 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/ancient_monastery-rubbish_dump.jpg?w=854&amp;h=344 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/ancient_monastery-rubbish_dump.jpg?w=768&amp;h=309 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
1978. <p style="text-align:right;"><em>(events 01 Dec 2012)</em></p>
1979. <hr />
1980. ]]></content:encoded>
1982. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/18/born-1840-died-1840/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
1983. <slash:comments>5</slash:comments>
1987. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/ancient_monastery-rubbish_dump.jpg" />
1988. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/ancient_monastery-rubbish_dump.jpg" medium="image">
1989. <media:title type="html">Ancient Monastery in Rubbish Dump</media:title>
1990. </media:content>
1991.  
1992. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
1993. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
1994. </media:content>
1995.  
1996. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/odzun_church.jpg" medium="image">
1997. <media:title type="html">Odzun 6th Century Church  - click to enlarge</media:title>
1998. </media:content>
1999.  
2000. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/odzun-ancient_church-ancient_madonna.jpg" medium="image">
2001. <media:title type="html">Odzun Ancient Church - Ancient Madonna  - click to enlarge</media:title>
2002. </media:content>
2003.  
2004. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/1840-lived_one_year.jpg" medium="image">
2005. <media:title type="html">Child born 1840, died 1840  - click to enlarge</media:title>
2006. </media:content>
2007.  
2008. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/house_with_bath.jpg" medium="image">
2009. <media:title type="html">House with Bath outside  - click to enlarge</media:title>
2010. </media:content>
2011.  
2012. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/odzun-monastery_on_edge_of_cliff.jpg" medium="image">
2013. <media:title type="html">Odzun-Ancient Monastery at Edge of Cliff  - click to enlarge</media:title>
2014. </media:content>
2015.  
2016. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/monastery-edge_of_cliff.jpg" medium="image">
2017. <media:title type="html">Monastery at Edge of Cliff  - click to enlarge</media:title>
2018. </media:content>
2019.  
2020. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/ancient_monastery-rubbish_dump.jpg" medium="image">
2021. <media:title type="html">Ancient Monastery in Rubbish Dump  - click to enlarge</media:title>
2022. </media:content>
2023. </item>
2024. <item>
2025. <title>Battle Plan for 3-Legged Dog</title>
2026. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/11/battle-plan-for-3-legged-dog/</link>
2027. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/11/battle-plan-for-3-legged-dog/#comments</comments>
2029. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
2030. <pubDate>Fri, 11 Jan 2013 16:20:32 +0000</pubDate>
2031. <category><![CDATA[Walking Armenia]]></category>
2032. <category><![CDATA[3-legged dogs]]></category>
2033. <category><![CDATA[Armenia]]></category>
2034. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
2035. <category><![CDATA[convent]]></category>
2036. <category><![CDATA[Kobayr]]></category>
2037. <category><![CDATA[travel]]></category>
2038. <category><![CDATA[walking]]></category>
2039. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=1074</guid>
2040.  
2041. <description><![CDATA[I am walking up to the ruins of Kobayr Convent, the mountaintop retreat of a set of unusually muscular 13th&#8230;]]></description>
2042. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am walking up to the ruins of Kobayr Convent, the mountaintop retreat of a set of unusually muscular 13th Century nuns.</p>
2043. <p>I leave the main road that follows the Debed river, cross the railway line and head upward.  The single railway line is more important than it looks:  it links Armenia to Georgia in the north, while east, west and south are blocked by hostile neighbors Turkey and Azerbaijan.</p>
2044. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/11/battle-plan-for-3-legged-dog/kobyr-road_runs_along_railway/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1068"><img loading="lazy" class="wp-image-1068 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;" title="Kobayr- Road Runs Along Railway - click to enlarge" alt="Kobayr- Road Runs Along Railway" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-road_runs_along_railway.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=776" width="1168" height="776" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-road_runs_along_railway.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-road_runs_along_railway.jpg?w=203&amp;h=135 203w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-road_runs_along_railway.jpg?w=854&amp;h=567 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-road_runs_along_railway.jpg?w=768&amp;h=510 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
2045. <p>Trains come through only 4-5 times a day, so even with my history of poor judgment and bad timing, my chances of getting knocked over by one are remote.</p>
2046. <p>At the lower levels of the mountain a farming community makes its living.  It does not seem like much of a living as the houses are in generally poor repair.</p>
2047. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/11/battle-plan-for-3-legged-dog/kobyr-village-houses_in_poor_repair/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1072"><img loading="lazy" class="wp-image-1072 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;" title="Kobayr- Village Houses in Poor Repair - click to enlarge" alt="Kobayr- Village Houses in Poor Repair" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-village-houses_in_poor_repair.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=648" width="1168" height="648" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-village-houses_in_poor_repair.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-village-houses_in_poor_repair.jpg?w=242&amp;h=135 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-village-houses_in_poor_repair.jpg?w=854&amp;h=474 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-village-houses_in_poor_repair.jpg?w=768&amp;h=426 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
2048. <p>though still working.  The track up leads between houses and barns and past some very friendly looking roofs:</p>
2049. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/11/battle-plan-for-3-legged-dog/kobyr-village-friendly_rooves/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1071"><img loading="lazy" class="wp-image-1071 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;" title="Kobayr - Friendly Rooves of Village Houses - click to enlarge" alt="Kobayr - Friendly Rooves of Village Houses" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-village-friendly_rooves.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=752" width="1168" height="752" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-village-friendly_rooves.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-village-friendly_rooves.jpg?w=210&amp;h=135 210w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-village-friendly_rooves.jpg?w=854&amp;h=550 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-village-friendly_rooves.jpg?w=768&amp;h=494 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
2050. <p>About 1/2 way up I realize I am lost.  I shout to a local farmer &#8220;turn left or right&#8221;.  Rather than answer he grabs his big stick, works his way up to me and then kindly leads me up.  He has probably determined the further away he gets me the less damage I can do.</p>
2051. <p>The convent sits under the top edge of the mountain, stone walls in front, basalt cliffs behind.</p>
2052. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/11/battle-plan-for-3-legged-dog/kobyr-ruins_in_side_of_mountain/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1070"><img loading="lazy" class="wp-image-1070 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;" title="Kobayr- Ruins in side of mountain - click to enlarge" alt="Kobayr- Ruins in side of mountain" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-ruins_in_side_of_mountain.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=734" width="1168" height="734" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-ruins_in_side_of_mountain.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-ruins_in_side_of_mountain.jpg?w=215&amp;h=135 215w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-ruins_in_side_of_mountain.jpg?w=854&amp;h=537 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-ruins_in_side_of_mountain.jpg?w=768&amp;h=483 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
2053. <p>On one side are dripping caves set into the cliffs.  It is absolutely quiet, and I guess has been for 900 years.  Here one of the places they worshipped.  Cold, stony, but with the soft light coming through the window, an easy place to pray:</p>
2054. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/11/battle-plan-for-3-legged-dog/kobyr-where_they_worshipped/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1073"><img loading="lazy" class="wp-image-1073 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;" title="Kobayr- Here They Worshipped - sunlight inside chapel - click to enlarge" alt="Kobayr- Here They Worshipped - sunlight inside chapel" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-where_they_worshipped.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=816" width="1168" height="816" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-where_they_worshipped.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-where_they_worshipped.jpg?w=193&amp;h=135 193w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-where_they_worshipped.jpg?w=854&amp;h=597 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-where_they_worshipped.jpg?w=768&amp;h=537 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
2055. <p>There are 10-20m drops everywhere.  I feel the need to tie myself to something.  There were no safety rails in the 13th either,  every step just nearer to God.</p>
2056. <p>The whole place is built from rocks, big rocks.  Cutting them, carrying them and carving them into shape is real musclebound work.  Fallen boulders everywhere, like marbles.  These must have been real muscly nuns.</p>
2057. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/11/battle-plan-for-3-legged-dog/kobyr_ruins/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1069"><img loading="lazy" class="wp-image-1069 aligncenter" style="border:3px solid black;" title="Kobayr- Ruins of 13th Century Convent - click to enlarge" alt="Kobayr- Ruins of 13th Century Convent" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr_ruins.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=776" width="1168" height="776" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr_ruins.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr_ruins.jpg?w=203&amp;h=135 203w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr_ruins.jpg?w=854&amp;h=567 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr_ruins.jpg?w=768&amp;h=510 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
2058. <p>I imagine them fending off drunk barbarians with a headlock.</p>
2059. <p>On the road back I am threatened by a 3-legged dog.  Yes, one 3-legged dog.  Has he no friends?  Has my life come to this that even 3-legged dogs think they can take me on?</p>
2060. <p>The clown has only 1 front leg.  So my battle plan, should one become necessary, is to knock the other one out from under him with my stick, and laugh.</p>
2061. <p style="text-align:right;"><em>(events 1 Dec 2012)</em></p>
2062. <hr />
2063. ]]></content:encoded>
2065. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/11/battle-plan-for-3-legged-dog/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
2066. <slash:comments>3</slash:comments>
2069. <georss:point>0.000000 0.000000</georss:point>
2070. <geo:lat>0.000000</geo:lat>
2071. <geo:long>0.000000</geo:long>
2072. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-road_runs_along_railway.jpg" />
2073. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-road_runs_along_railway.jpg" medium="image">
2074. <media:title type="html">Kobayr- Road Runs Along Railway - click to enlarge</media:title>
2075. </media:content>
2076.  
2077. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
2078. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
2079. </media:content>
2080.  
2081. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-road_runs_along_railway.jpg" medium="image">
2082. <media:title type="html">Kobayr- Road Runs Along Railway - click to enlarge</media:title>
2083. </media:content>
2084.  
2085. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-village-houses_in_poor_repair.jpg" medium="image">
2086. <media:title type="html">Kobayr- Village Houses in Poor Repair - click to enlarge</media:title>
2087. </media:content>
2088.  
2089. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-village-friendly_rooves.jpg" medium="image">
2090. <media:title type="html">Kobayr - Friendly Rooves of Village Houses - click to enlarge</media:title>
2091. </media:content>
2092.  
2093. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-ruins_in_side_of_mountain.jpg" medium="image">
2094. <media:title type="html">Kobayr- Ruins in side of mountain - click to enlarge</media:title>
2095. </media:content>
2096.  
2097. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr-where_they_worshipped.jpg" medium="image">
2098. <media:title type="html">Kobayr- Here They Worshipped - sunlight inside chapel - click to enlarge</media:title>
2099. </media:content>
2100.  
2101. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/kobyr_ruins.jpg" medium="image">
2102. <media:title type="html">Kobayr- Ruins of 13th Century Convent - click to enlarge</media:title>
2103. </media:content>
2104. </item>
2105. <item>
2106. <title>Worth Her Bride Price</title>
2107. <link>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/04/worth-her-bride-price/</link>
2108. <comments>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/04/worth-her-bride-price/#comments</comments>
2110. <dc:creator><![CDATA[alienheartbeat]]></dc:creator>
2111. <pubDate>Fri, 04 Jan 2013 16:14:28 +0000</pubDate>
2112. <category><![CDATA[Walking Armenia]]></category>
2113. <category><![CDATA[Armenia]]></category>
2114. <category><![CDATA[backpacking]]></category>
2115. <category><![CDATA[Bride Price]]></category>
2116. <category><![CDATA[travel walking]]></category>
2117. <guid isPermaLink="false">http://alien-heartbeat.com/?p=1036</guid>
2118.  
2119. <description><![CDATA[Walking along the top of the plateau (previous post) I pass donkeys loaded with firewood.&#160; Short men with sticks keep&#8230;]]></description>
2120. <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Walking along the top of the plateau (previous post) I pass donkeys loaded with firewood.&nbsp; Short men with sticks keep them moving, as though the last two thousand years didn&#8217;t happen.</p>
2121. <p>I am still about 4km from Dsegh.&nbsp; Apple trees with tiny gnarled apples line the road.&nbsp; The cool clear air, the height, the trees remind me of the road to the Hunza Valley in the Hindu Kush.&nbsp; Fields of horses on the right.</p>
2122. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/04/worth-her-bride-price/road_to_dsegh-fruit_trees/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1033"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-1033" style="border:3px solid black;" title="Fruit Trees on Road to Dsegh  - click to enlarge" alt="Fruit Trees on Road to Dsegh" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/road_to_dsegh-fruit_trees.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=575" width="1168" height="575" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/road_to_dsegh-fruit_trees.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/road_to_dsegh-fruit_trees.jpg?w=242&amp;h=119 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/road_to_dsegh-fruit_trees.jpg?w=854&amp;h=420 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/road_to_dsegh-fruit_trees.jpg?w=768&amp;h=378 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
2123. <p>Dsegh turns out to be a very pleasant high plateau farming community.&nbsp; Women in coarse dresses and head scarves carry buckets of stuff along the lanes, and stop to chat:</p>
2124. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/04/worth-her-bride-price/dsegh-village_rd-women_just_chatting/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1032"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-1032" style="border:3px solid black;" title="Dsegh Village Lane: Women working  - click to enlarge" alt="Dsegh Village Lane: Women working" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh-village_rd-women_just_chatting.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=446" width="1168" height="446" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh-village_rd-women_just_chatting.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh-village_rd-women_just_chatting.jpg?w=242&amp;h=92 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh-village_rd-women_just_chatting.jpg?w=854&amp;h=326 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh-village_rd-women_just_chatting.jpg?w=768&amp;h=293 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
2125. <p>Even in winter this place is fruit trees, stone houses, horses, cows, goats, chickens, and chubby pink pigs:</p>
2126. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/04/worth-her-bride-price/dsegh_farmhouse-pink_pigs/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1029"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-1029" style="border:3px solid black;" title="Dsegh: pink pigs in yard  - click to enlarge" alt="Dsegh: pink pigs in yard" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh_farmhouse-pink_pigs.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=421" width="1168" height="421" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh_farmhouse-pink_pigs.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh_farmhouse-pink_pigs.jpg?w=242&amp;h=87 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh_farmhouse-pink_pigs.jpg?w=854&amp;h=308 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh_farmhouse-pink_pigs.jpg?w=768&amp;h=277 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
2127. <p>I walk through Dsegh to the edge of a steep canyon and then down the side to the ruins of the 8th Century Surp Grigor Barzdzrakash Monastery.&nbsp; The stones now covered in moss, the whole area a thick carpet of leaves.&nbsp; It still seems a holy place:</p>
2128. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/04/worth-her-bride-price/dsegh-surp_grigor_ruins-still_a_holy_place/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1031"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-1031" style="border:3px solid black;" title="Surp Grigor Ruins: Still a Holy Place  - click to enlarge" alt="Surp Grigor Ruins: Still a Holy Place" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh-surp_grigor_ruins-still_a_holy_place.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=535" width="1168" height="535" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh-surp_grigor_ruins-still_a_holy_place.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh-surp_grigor_ruins-still_a_holy_place.jpg?w=242&amp;h=111 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh-surp_grigor_ruins-still_a_holy_place.jpg?w=854&amp;h=391 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh-surp_grigor_ruins-still_a_holy_place.jpg?w=768&amp;h=352 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
2129. <p>Red leaves, white light, stone Khachkars from the dark ages, asking for the salvation of the dead:</p>
2130. <p style="text-align:center;"><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/04/worth-her-bride-price/dsegh-surp_grigor-khachkar/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1030"><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter  wp-image-1030" style="border:3px solid black;" title="Khachkar at Surp Grigor Monastery ruins  - click to enlarge" alt="Khachkar at Surp Grigor Monastery ruins" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh-surp_grigor-khachkar.jpg?w=1168&#038;h=550" width="1168" height="550" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh-surp_grigor-khachkar.jpg 1168w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh-surp_grigor-khachkar.jpg?w=242&amp;h=114 242w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh-surp_grigor-khachkar.jpg?w=854&amp;h=402 854w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh-surp_grigor-khachkar.jpg?w=768&amp;h=362 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1168px) 100vw, 1168px" /></a></p>
2131. <p>On the walk back to Dsegh I help a woman carrying sacks of stuff to town.&nbsp; Even the half I took was heavy.&nbsp; No wonder Armenian women have a reputation as the working member of the family.&nbsp; Unlike neighbouring Turkey there is no Bride Price <sup>[1]</sup> in Armenia, but for a women like this there ought to be.</p>
2132. <p>Walked 17km today.&nbsp; Lunched on bread and <a title="Missing Life&nbsp;Skills" href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2012/12/09/a-hungry-walk/">&#8216;tan&#8217;</a> (a whey drink).</p>
2133. <p>I took a ride down the mountain to preserve my toes.&nbsp; The driver couldn&#8217;t drive and feared not death.&nbsp; A bad combination, especially in a rust-ridden Lada.&nbsp; Most Armenians are devout, and drive like they are ready to meet their maker at any time.&nbsp; I am not ready, and I doubt my maker is all that keen to see me again either.</p>
2134. <p>Which is why I usually walk.</p>
2135. <p style="text-align:right;"><em>(events 30 Nov 2012)</em></p>
2136. <hr />
2137. <p><a href="https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/04/worth-her-bride-price/man_of_the_year-1/" target="_blank" rel="attachment wp-att-1039"><img loading="lazy" class="alignright wp-image-1039" style="border:3px solid black;margin-left:12px;margin-right:4px;" title="Bride Price: Husband Getting His Money's Worth" alt="Bride Price: Husband Getting His Money's Worth" src="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/man_of_the_year-1.jpg?w=410&#038;h=287" width="410" height="287" srcset="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/man_of_the_year-1.jpg 410w, https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/man_of_the_year-1.jpg?w=193&amp;h=135 193w" sizes="(max-width: 410px) 100vw, 410px" /></a>[1]&nbsp; Bride price is paid to the parents of the bride.</p>
2138. <p>In some societies it means that after marriage the man is going to sit around and do nothing, letting his wife do all the work.<br />
2139. Bride Price (like the custom of men sitting around doing nothing) has been around a while.&nbsp; The Code of Hammurabi (1772 BC) regulated it and included provisions under which the man was entitled to a refund.</p>
2140. <p>(That last picture of the husband getting his money&#8217;s worth isn&#8217;t mine, it was passed around the web many years ago, but if anyone knows who to attribute this to, let me know.&nbsp; I would like to shake his hand.)</p>
2141. <p><span style="color:#ffffff;">.</span><br />
2142. <span style="color:#ffffff;">.</span></p>
2143. <hr />
2144. ]]></content:encoded>
2146. <wfw:commentRss>https://alien-heartbeat.com/2013/01/04/worth-her-bride-price/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
2147. <slash:comments>2</slash:comments>
2151. <media:thumbnail url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh-village_rd-women_just_chatting.jpg" />
2152. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh-village_rd-women_just_chatting.jpg" medium="image">
2153. <media:title type="html">Dsegh Village Lane: Women working  - click to enlarge</media:title>
2154. </media:content>
2155.  
2156. <media:content url="https://2.gravatar.com/avatar/e77647dbd4a47f41e7afa0532dbb7bfa9208bd18d8e881629b6452f0c0dc475d?s=96&#38;d=&#38;r=G" medium="image">
2157. <media:title type="html">alienheartbeat</media:title>
2158. </media:content>
2159.  
2160. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/road_to_dsegh-fruit_trees.jpg" medium="image">
2161. <media:title type="html">Fruit Trees on Road to Dsegh  - click to enlarge</media:title>
2162. </media:content>
2163.  
2164. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh-village_rd-women_just_chatting.jpg" medium="image">
2165. <media:title type="html">Dsegh Village Lane: Women working  - click to enlarge</media:title>
2166. </media:content>
2167.  
2168. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh_farmhouse-pink_pigs.jpg" medium="image">
2169. <media:title type="html">Dsegh: pink pigs in yard  - click to enlarge</media:title>
2170. </media:content>
2171.  
2172. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh-surp_grigor_ruins-still_a_holy_place.jpg" medium="image">
2173. <media:title type="html">Surp Grigor Ruins: Still a Holy Place  - click to enlarge</media:title>
2174. </media:content>
2175.  
2176. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/dsegh-surp_grigor-khachkar.jpg" medium="image">
2177. <media:title type="html">Khachkar at Surp Grigor Monastery ruins  - click to enlarge</media:title>
2178. </media:content>
2179.  
2180. <media:content url="https://alien-heartbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/man_of_the_year-1.jpg" medium="image">
2181. <media:title type="html">Bride Price: Husband Getting His Money&#039;s Worth</media:title>
2182. </media:content>
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